• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.4
• /
• pp.146-165
• /
• 2016

The aim of the study is to propose ways to improve the break line fit of women's tailored collar vests by modifying the patternmaking process. The study explored the fit effects of experimental vests with a focus on 3 different breast sizes, A, B, and C cups. Women in the ages between 20 and 24 in South Korea were targeted. In order to carry out the objective, the study implemented separate girth measurements for the front and the back of the tailored collar vests, and also allocated different dart amounts on the lapel through the break line according to the different breast cup sizes. The study adopted a 5-point rating scale to perform evaluation of the different fit effects caused by the varying dart amounts given on the experimental vests' break lines. This evaluation was carried out by apparel pattern experts. The results derived from the study were as follows: first, the implementation of separate girth measurements provided originality to the study, as the application of different measurements for the waist back length and the neck shoulder point-to-breast point-to-waist line led to the front panels of the experimental vests having varying slack amounts. Second, break line dart was applied in three different amounts, 0.5, 1.0, and 1.5cm respectively according to A, B and C breast sizes, and as the dart amount increased, extra ease on the break lines was reduced. The dart was applied on the edge lines of the lapel and it was applied from a point which was 6cm above the breast point to the end of the princess line for all the breast cup sizes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.151-163
• /
• 1981

This study was to investigate the changes of shape of the surface square measurements, the rate, measurements of expansion and contraction and correlation. In this study was found the following: 1. According to the developmental illustration of the shell it was revealed that there was a great change in the thigh area of the body. When the leg was raised and the waist bent forward the front sections of the abdomen were contracted and the center back of the hip was expanded. 2. It was found that the contraction was present in the girth of the back section and front section was expanded in the rate of the body surface. In the length from the middle waist to hip the front area showed a great deal of contraction the back area of the hip & thigh revealed a great deal of expansion. 3. By the somatometry, the measurements of the expansion and contraction of the body surface, there was a great change in waist and hip. It revealed that the maximum expansions of waist and hip line in the chair were 1.8cm and 4.08cm respectively. Therefor, when slacks are made at least the amount of ease of 1.8cm of waist line and 4cm of hip line must be made and the allowance of the center back of hip area must be made. 4. It revealed that there was a correlation between waist and hip girth.