The purpose of this research is to compare, according to tone variation of a red jacket, the preference of female college students from Korea and the U.S. for coloration in the traditional Korean dress. The results of the research can be summarized as follows: As to a vivid skirt according to tone variation of red jacket, students of both countries showed the different view in the preference for coloration of vivid red skirt and vivid. dark red jacket, and vivid orange skirt and dull red jacket, and vivid yellow skirt and light dull red jacket, and vivid violet skirt and dull red jacket. As to the light skirt according to tone variation of red jacket, student of both countries showed the different view in the preference for coloration of light red skirt and light red jacket, and light orange skirt and light red jacket. As to the dull skirt according to tone variation of red jacket, student of both countries showed the different view in the preference for coloration of dull red skirt and vivid light dull dark red jacket, and dull yellow skirt and light dull red jacket, and dull yellow skirt and light dull red jacket, and dull green skirt and dull red jacket, and dull violet skirt and vivid light dull dark red jacket. As to the dark skirt according to tone variation of red jacket, student of both countries showed the different view in the preference for coloration of dark red skirt and dull dark red jacket, and dark orange skirt and vivid light dull red jacket, and dark yellow skirt and dull red jacket. As to the neutral skirt according to tone variation of red jacket, student of both countries showed the different view in the preference for coloration of white skirt and vivid red jacket, and dark gray skirt and light red jacket.
Heungdukwang's(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shilla's(統-新羅) costume. And among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heungdukwang's(興德王) costume ordinance, from Pyosang(表裳), Naesang(內裳), we know they wore one skirt over another. But skirts appearing in visual records are wort in waist line or breast line, and when they wore skirts in breast line, there were shoulder belts or not. Also among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heungdukwang'a (興德王) costume ordinance, Yo( ) and Ban( ) seems to be connected with skirt. but it is not clear. So this study focuses on the history of wearing skirt in breast line and one skirt over another, shoulder belts of skirt, and relation among yo( ), Ban( ) and skirt. The results are as follows. First, wearing skirt in breast line is already appeared in Ancient Shilla's(新羅) clay figure, and wearing one skirt over another is also appeared in Sunhung tomb's mural painting. so it is not completely under the influence of Tang(唐). Second, the shoulder belts of skirt is for convenience of action, But, at that time, there is no shoulder belts of skirt in Tang(唐). Third, between Yo( ) and Ban( ), If Yo( ) is connected with skirt, it is a shoulder belts of skirt or waist of skirt. And Ban( ) is a ire of skirt.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of accordion pleats shown in 10/11 S/S London, Paris, New York collection and evaluate the differences of visual image by variations in the width of pleats and the length of the accordion pleats skirt. The stimuli are 21 samples: 7 variations of the width of pleats and 3 variations of the length of skirt. The data has been obtained from 43 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test. The results of the study are as follows: Accordion pleats was first introduced by Marriano Fortuny. He published delphos dress by creating silk pleats manufacturing technique and it was recognized as the best pleats work. Since then, pleats with synthetic fiber characteristics were used by many fashion designers. Accordion pleats were used in various items including one-peice, skirt and pants in collection of 2010 and 2011. The design of accordion pleats skirt used different width of pleats, length of the skirt and materials. The visual image by the width of pleats and the length of skirt are composed of 3 factors : dearness, attractiveness and elegance. In these factors, dearness factor is estimated by the most important factor. The accordion p1eats skirt is most attractive and dear when the width of pleats is the shortest, 1/8", and the width of 4/8" and 5/8" follows. The accordion pleats skirt is most attractive and dear when the length of skirt is similar to that of mini-skirt, and the skirt was estimated to be elegant as the skirt gets longer. When the length of skirt is in between, the skirts were estimated to be ambiguous in all visual images. The interaction effect of visual image according to the changes in width of pleats and skirt length of accordion pleats skirt was seemed to have significant differences by factors, and the main effect had great differences in all factors.
The present study was designed to find out the construction conditions of tight skirt for sale in relation to its brand, target age and length. The 15 tight skirts each from 3 brand groups(designer character, national and minor brand) of 2 target age groups(youth and middle age) and the 15 tight skirts each from 3 skirt length groups(mini, natural line and maxi) of only the minor brand-a total of the 120 tight skirts on the market-were measured. The data were analyzed with use of SAS package. The statistics were based on frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, one-way ANOVA, two-way ANOVA, Pearson's correlation and linear regression analysis. The main results were as follows. 1. There were significant differences in the construction conditions of tight skirt according to its brand and target age. There was a significant difference particurarly in the difference between hip girth and hem girth according to brand target age. The difference between hip girth and hem girth of designer's character brand skirt was larger than that of national brand & minor brand skirt, and that of skirt targeting the youth was larger than that of skirt targeting the middle aged. 2. There were significant difference particurarly in the differences in the construction conditions of tight skirt according to its length. There was a significant difference particurarly in the difference between hip girth and he girth according to skirt length, and that of maxi skirt was larger than that of mini & natural line skirt. There was a good correlation between skirt length and slit length and between skirt length and skirt length above the slit. The longer the skirt length was, the longer the slit length and the skirt length above the slit were.
The present research is to study a variation of skirt length in the time series, from 1955 to 1986. The results are summarized as follows; 1. The most important event is the acceptance of Mini skirts during this period. This phenomenon will play an important role in later skirt length. 2. The year of the shortest skirt length is 1972, while the year of the longest skirt length is 1983. 3. Based upon the year of the shortest skirt length, the periods of the same skirt length are as follows; 1956-1975. 1964-1978. 1959, 1960-1980, 1981. 1961-1982. This phenomenon is irregularly appeared in this study, but shows the change of recurring skirt length. 4. The skirt length has been changed slowly and continuously during the long period of time. In particular, to reach the shortest skirt length takes longer time than that of the longest skirt length. 5. It has taken 6-8 years to reach the top period of Mini skirts (1971-1973) since shorts are introduced. Comparing this phenomenon in Korea with that in Japan, the time difference is about two years. 6. The periods of various skirts length are the year of 1970-1971 and the year of 1972-1973; This result is assumed that individual persons accept sooner or later the changed skirt length. 7. It is belived that Mini skirts are appeared and popularized by external factors. Once Mini skirts are accepted, we can expect that they will be continuosly changed in the course of recurring skirt length.
The purpose of this research was to compare the evaluation of tone on tone coloration of traditional Korean dress by Korean and American women college students. The respondents were asked to evaluate 48 stimuli of the traditional Korean skirt and jacket with different tone of color. The evaluation of Korean and American students admit of various interpretation, and it can'be said that they were caused by their different cultural bacgrounds. The results of reseach can be summerized as follows. As to the red colors, Korean students evaluated vivid skirt and light or dark jacket, light skirt and vivid or dull, dark jacket, dull skirt and light jacket as harmonized. But American students judged light skirt and dull and light jacket as not harmonized. As to the yellow colors, both Korean and American students had common opinions that light skirt and dull jacket are well harmonized. Korean students thought vivid skirt and dull jacket, light skirt and dull, dark jacket, dull skirt and dark jacket are well harmonized. American students thought light skirt and vivid, light, dull jacket dull skirt and light jacket are well harmonnized. As to the green colors, Korean students evaluated vivid skirt and dull, dark jacket, light skirt and vivid, dull, dark jacket are well harmonized. But American students evaluated vivid skirt and light jacket, light skirt and dark jacket, dark skirt and vivid or light jacket are not harmonized. Among 48 stimuli of tone on tone coloration, Korean students evaluated 18 set and American students judged 30 set as harmonized.
The purpose of this study is to identify the effect of clothing cues(sleeve and skirt width, length) on female impressions. The experimental materials developed for this study are a set of stimuli and response scales. The stimuli are 16 pictures manipulated with sleeve and skirt width · length variations by computer drawing. The experimental design consists of 3 factorial design: (1) sleeve shapes(plain, upper expanded, below expanded, all expanded) (2) skirt width (wide, narrow) (3) skirt length(long, short) The 7-point semantic differential response scale designed for visual evaluation of female' s impression formation on sleeve shape and skirt width · length is 27 bipolar adjectives. The results of this study are as follows: 1. When we analize the impressions of female figure by sleeve shape and width · length of skirt, it becomes clear that maturity, modernity, attention, elegance and tenderness are proved to be important. Among these five factors, maturity, modernity and attention are identified as more important ones. 2. Sleeve shape have an effect on all factors except maturity and the effects of sleeve on the four factors are not striking. ' Width of skirt are most influential to the maturity and attention, but it does not have any effect on modernity. However two factor, that is width of skirt and sleeve have an effects on modernity, attention and tenderness. ' The length of skirt has an effects on the tenderness, elegance and modernity, but it dose not have any effect on attention. But width and length of skirt have an effects on attention, tenderness and modernity The length of skirt and sleeve have an effect on tenderness.
This study analyzed hierarchy of image for visual evaluation of flare skirt. This study analyzed expression words about flare skirt with frequency data of image expression words with different length and volume of flare. Stimuli for the study were set to be 4 different volume of flare ($90^{\circ}$, $180^{\circ}$, $270^{\circ}$, $360^{\circ}$) and 3 different length of skirt(48cm, 58cm, 68cm). Stimuli were made by using I-Designer which is Virtual Sewing System. From simulation of flare skirt, the subjects were asked to write down suggested adjective freely and selected 210 adjectives. With this, we chose total 38 adjectives considering frequencies in the pre-study. And we analyzed the combination process of expression words according to construction factor of flare skirt and hierarchy of image from dendrogram which was resulted by hierarchical cluster analysis. 'Feminine' got high score in all 12 flare skirt. When the skirt was short, it was vivid, and as the skirt got longer, ordinary and pure image showed. Also, as the volume of flare got larger, the average of visual effect was higher than visual image. Visual hierarchy construction according to construction factors of flare skirt could be divided into visual image and visual effect, and visual image was shown to be form 'A type - large volume of flare and short skirt length', 'H type-small volume of flare and short skirt length' and 'X type - large volume of flare and long skirt length'.
This study verified the 'Hemline Index' theory by George (1926) and established a new fashion theory frame to forecast future fashion cycles of skirts by analyzing the past fashion cycle of skirts through a diachronic method. Skirt pictures from 1980-2013 (the post-industrialized period of Korea) were analyzed and representative skirt styles, the fashion cycle of skirts and relation between skirt style, length, width and stock index were identified. A total of 1496 pictures in fashion magazine published over 34 years were selected and analyzed using PASW 18.0. The results were: For 34 years, representative skirts styles were mini skirt, midi skirt and long skirt. Fashion trend cycles of skirt length decreased for 10 years and the fashion cycle showed a trend to shorten. Skirt length & stock index related negatively and skirt length & skirt width related positively. All relations revealed significant results. Finally, the 'Hemline Index' theory of George (1926) was verified. Fashion marketers can develop successful and suitable products using a fashion cycle theory based on the results of this study.
International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
/
제12권1호
/
pp.928-942
/
2020
The pressure responsiveness property of a skirt-cushion system, which is closely related to the overall performance of Air Cushion Vehicles (ACVs), has always been the difficulty and challenging problem involving cushion aerodynamics and flexible skirt dynamics. Based on a widely used bag and finger skirt-cushion system, the pressure responsiveness properties are investigated numerically. The physical process and mechanism are analyzed and a numerical method for evaluating the pressure responsiveness property is proposed. A cushion-skirt information communication platform is also presented for interchanging the force and the skirt configuration between cushion aerodynamics and flexible skirt dynamics. The pressure responsiveness of a typical skirt-cushion system is calculated and the results demonstrate that the pressure responsiveness property helps alleviate the influence of the cushion height changing on the overall performance of ACVs. Finally, the influences of skirt geometrical and cushion aerodynamic parameters on the pressure responsiveness properties are discussed systematically, giving insight into the design of skirt-cushion systems.
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