• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.686-698
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• 2005

In this study, simultaneous mordanting method of dyeing in the Caesalpinia sappan dye liquor mixed with the rice straw ash solution was employed. The dyeing effects were compared and reviewed according to the changes of dyeing mechanisms of pre-mordanting and simultaneous mordanting using ash solutions. By the direct addition of the ash solution, the pH of the liquor was abruptly changed. In the case of maintaining the pH value of the ash solution at about 7 or 8, compared to the pre-mordanting, $a^{*}$ values increased and $b^{*}$ values decreased. As a result, it is highly desirable in terms of selective emphasis on the reddish hue. The color development, differentiated from that obtainable by the dyeing of chitosan pre-treated fabric, was obtained due to the effect of the water soluble chitosan component on the dyeing mechanism.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.33-41
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• 1997

This paper surveys the extraction condition of polygenetic natural dye, Sappan Wood and the effect of ash to the dyeability and fastness. The appropriate time for extracting Sappon Wood was 1hour. The pH was increased as the amount of ash increase. The pH was nearly invariable according to the time of ash solution, the extracting times and temperature. Absorbance of dyeing fabrics was about 480nm. From the result of K/S value determination of fabrics, 10g/$\ell$ quantity of ash was surfficient for treatment and the amount of Sappon Wood was in 100% o.w.f.. K/S value of fabrics pre-mordanted or post-mordanted were higher than that of fabrics simultaneous mordanted.K/S value was increased as pH of mordanting bath decrease and pre-mordanting and post-mordanting fabrics increased the amount of absorption (K/S value) compared with non-mordanted fabrics. It was found that pH of mordanting bath affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed fabrics. Light fastness of fabric dyed was very poor and the fastness of fabric dyed was not influenced by the mordanting conditions and methods.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.908-917
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• 2004

In the previous article, the effect of aluminum compounds on the mordanting of the Caesalpinia sappan L. dyeing was studied. According to the type of the compound, the effect on the dyeing was found to be different even if $Al^{3+}$ ion was present in the molecular structure of the compound. It was postulated that there would be complex effects other than the effects based on the purified Al compounds only, since there are some amount of compounds hard to neglect. In order to reproduce the traditional dyeing practice, rice straw ash solutions were prepared as mordanting agents. The pH values of the solution baths were 4, 5, 6, 9, and 11 in order to investigate the pH effect on the color development by adding appropriate amount of Schizandra chinensis extract solution. The inherent dyeing properties were evaluated by the analysis of color difference, air permeability, the characteristics developed by pre-mordanting, post-mordanting, or simultaneous mordanting methods.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.394-398
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• 2002

The purse of this study was to invesigate the dyeing fastness on extract of bufferbur leaf princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordant treatment, component of fabric and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done by laundering, abrasion (dry/wet), perspiration (acid/alkali), light, iron fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summerized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows : In the C.C.M test on mordanting method and kind of fabric, color difference of silk was three times higher than cotton. The silk fabric was the highest in simultaneous mordant treatment but cotton fabric was the highest in none mordant. In color difference analysis on 6 mordants, that of silk and cotton was significantly improved when mordants was treatmented. Especially color difference of Fe and Cu mordanting treatment was higher than Cr, Sn, Al and none. In dyeing fastness on mordants laundering, perspiration, abrasion and iron fastness showed 4-5 grade but light-fastness showed 1-3 grade.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.107-121
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• 2003

This study was discussed the dyeing of wool and nylon fabrics with Chinese Scholar Tree extract. The extracts of Chinese Scholar Tree was prepared in the condition of heating at $95{\pm}5C$, for 1 hour and cooling to 40C. And then the extracts of color matter treate with vacuum concentration at $60{\pm}2^{\circ}C$, 30mmHg and dried with spray dryer. The dyeing of wool and nylon fabric in this experiment was also employed the mordant dyeing method such as pre-mordant, post-mordant and simultaneous mordant method. The mordanting agents used in this study were as followings ; aluminium potassium sulfate, copper(II) acetate monohydrate, chromium potassium sulfate$.$$7H_2O$, Tin(II) chloride dihydrate, iron(II)sulfate $7H_2O$. For an evaluation of the dyeing property of the mordanting agents, the pre-mordant method, the repeat dyeing and the fastness of the light, dry cleaning, washing and rubbing measured respectively. From the results of the dye absorption, the optimum dyeing condition of the wool and nylon fabrics with Chinese Scholar Tree extract is at 80C dyeing temperature for 60 minutes. The optimum concentration of mordanting agent is Al, Cr, Sn 1%, Fe, Cu 2% solution. In general, the fastness property of the dyed wool and nylon fabrics had a comparatively high grade.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.119-129
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• 2020

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of premordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.399-407
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• 2003

The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Purple-Fleshed Sweet Potato (PSP) was investigated. The colorant was extracted with distilled water, and the color difference (${\Delta}E^*$) was increased with increasing the amount of PSP in extraction. The proper temperature and time for the extracting of colorant with PSP were $60^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes. The optimum temperature, time and pH for the dyeing of silk with extracted PSP were $60^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and pH 4 respectively. In various mordanted methods, the color difference values of post-mordanted silk fabric were higher than those of pre- and simultaneous-mordanted method. And the wide range of colors( GY, Y, YR, R, RP) were obtained according to various mordants, mordanting methods and mordant concentrations. Light colorfastness of the mordanted silk fabric was improved. Laundering colorfastness, dry cleaning colorfastness and perspiration colorfastness were shown to be good.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권12호
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• pp.1708-1713
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• 2006

모섬유에 높은 염착성을 가진 호두외피의 주색소인 주글론을 모발염색에 적용 가능성을 알아보기 위해 주글론의 모발에 대한 염색성을 조사하였다. 모발염색을 하기 위해서 먼저 시중 헤어전문점에서 사용하는 방법으로 모발을 표백하였다. 모발염색의 특성상 염색시간을 10-20분으로 섬유염색보다 훨씬 짧게 설정하였으며 염착성, 인장강도, 전자현미경 분석을 하였다. 염색시간이 증가함에 따라 염착성은 증가하는 경향을 보였으며 인장강도는 떨어져 모발 손상이 일어난 것을 알 수 있었다. 모발손상은 전자 현미경 사진으로 확인 되었다. 주글론 염색에 의해 모발에 YR 계열의 색상을 낼 수 있었다. 동시매 염 방법으로 철매염제를 사용한 결과 염착성 증진은 크지 않았으나, YR 계열 내에서 더 진한 색상을 얻을 수 있었다. 천연 모발염색에 주글론을 사용할 수 있을 것으로 사료되며, 염색조건에 따라 다양한 갈색계 열 색상을 부여할 수 있다.