• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.43-50
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• 2006

The main colorant of Chelidonium majus extracts is a berberine which shows relatively good dyeability onto silk fabrics in the appropriate dyeing conditions without mordant, But cotton fabrics are difficult to dye with berberine because of the low substantivity the cationic to cellulosic fibers. we treated cotton fabrics using three types of polycarboxylic acid, DL-malic acid, citric acid, 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid(BTCA) to increase dyeability of Chelidonium majus extracts onto cotton fabrics. As a result the cotton fabrics treated with polycarboxylic acid could be dyed with Chelidonium majus extracts and also showed yellow vividly. The dye uptake were increased with increasing the number of carboxy groups. And so dye uptake resulted the largest in the BTCA solutions which have four carboxylic groups in the molecular unit. The optimal dyeing temperature a of Chelidonium majus extracts onto polycarboxylic acid treated cotton fabrics were $60^{\circ}C$. The dye equilibrium was reached 20 minutes after dyeing. Neutral pH of dye solutions showed in higher K/S value than acidic or alkaline conditions. But the colorfastness to washing and light according to polycarboxylic acid treat was not enhance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.181-195
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• 2000

This study was conducted from Sep., 1999. to Nov., 1999. It researched approximately 60 specialized manufacturers who had homepages on the Internet. Of the 60 manufacturers, 20 of them were chosen for the study all of whom had relatively were made homepages that were geared towards sales. 1. Daily Hanboks on the homepages were put in an electronic catalog. They were photographed and well described. Each picture could be enlarged when needed. 2. The Hanbok's were made for men, women and children. There were every couple's Hanboks. The Hanboks used natural material, mixed spinning and chemical textile, which was easily kept and washed. It was intended, as clothes for everyday wear Silk was used for formal clothes. 3. The prices ranged from low-middle to high clothing for everyday life is reasonable and street wear and formal dresses are priced high. The color of the dresses are not vibrant, but natural and light. As Hanboks become more in demand, there will be more choices available. 4. As matter of the sizes shows weakness. In general they use the western size system. The purpose of this study is to show the direction that Hanbok manufacturers may take for the internet sales and for being more active to promote the spread of the dress. This research came to the fellowing conclusion. Even though Hanbok manufacturers operate homepages. it seems that they are not well used. However, many internet shopping malls have been opened and they have put Daily Hanboks into one of their sales categories. The internet malls are getting more active and are expanding more. Therefore the market value of the Hanboks in the future look optimistic. If smaller sized manufacturers of Daily Hanbok's establish cooperative network that have no time and space limit, they can use the strong power of the market as the market development for Daily Hanboks is endless.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.102-120
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• 2005

Three Jang-Ue's and eleven drapery were investigated in the excavated costume in Ue-Ryeong, Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do. Three Jang-Ue's have three different colors. the length, the width, and the wide of quilting are different as well. The outer collar of a coat is a double collar while the inturned collar is a single collar. In case of Dark blue and Pink Jang-Ue. The large section of cloth forming the body of a Korean coat is getting narrower while the reinforcing cloth strip is getting wider as the time is passing by. All the three Jang-Ue's have the different handling methods of a attached to the top border of a Korean coat, and Pink Jang-Ue doesn't have a attached to the tip border of a Korean coat. The handling method of the hemline are all different. And the handling method of the cuffs are all different. The silk is main in the woven goods, partly hemp, mixed fabrics and cotton. Especially complex gauze with supplementary wefts that were found unusually in Cho-Sun Dynasty are very import to study the complex gauze. The fond relics of the Jeon-Ui Lee family reveal various formational methods and specific characters of the excavated costume. There fore these that bring the Jang-Ue shape and the textile's feature in Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do region, from 16th to 17th are very valuable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.101-111
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the features of the conversational patterns presented on the fashion in the early 2000's and analyze it from cultural view. The expression of the patterns is a result of a creative aesthetic activity, mental activity, and the reflection of the common cognition. And the fashion is a part of the life environment. So the patterns presented on the fashion provides a clue to figure out the common unconscious sense for explaining the culture. The patterns have been expressed with different methods belonging to each culture such as weaving and prints. And those of the each cultural group have been communicating each other. The silk came to the Europe in the 6th century. The textile industry which flourished since 15th century. And they shows the chinoiserie or indian prints, not only the european culture. We can observe that the exchange of the techniques and cultures between cultural groups like the east and the west, and the presentation of the patterns is a way to express their own desires. The patterns presented after 2,000 can be classified by the form and the contents. But, more specifically, the patterns classified by the contents, which is Conversational design, can be categorized as followed according to the origin; reflecting cultural identity, Popular culture, Lohas lifestyle, and art movements. Which can be summarized as that the people have more interest on the different cultural group, diversity, retrospectiveness, and exoticism, which the patterns originally belonged to than on the form itself.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.15-24
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• 2013

Chil-sa head-wear excavated in Buksandong of Ulsan is precious relic with historical, cultural, social and artistic values because it shows head-wear shape at the period of Goryeo dynasty with the invaluable worth in the field of Korean traditional costumes. Also, this excavated head-wear provides the empirical information about Goryeo dynasty which has relatively insufficient remains. The purposes of this study are to recover and maintain the original states of the artifacts from various environmental factors and then to preserve the materials from rapid decomposition. As a result, the original shape of the head-wear from Goryeo dynasty can be conserved and through the material and structure analysis it is found out that the head-wear's surface structure is composed of silk(紗) and the ground structure is made by bamboo(竹絲).

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.10-20
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• 2009

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of leaf powder colorants as substitutes for traditional fresh juice extract dyeing. Three kinds of leaf powder colorants were prepared by freeze drying method with or without deep freezing as pre-treatment: one powder colorant from fresh leaf juice with deep freezing; two kinds of powder colorant from fresh leaves with and without deep freezing. Their dyeing properties and storage stabilities were studied and compared with the traditional fresh juice extract dyeing. The presence of indigo in the powder colorants was confirmed by UV/Visible absorption spectra. They showed absorption peak at 602nm which was same with indigo absorption peak. Dyeing was done at low temperature around 6$^{\circ}C$. All three powder colorants produced B colors on silk fabrics, showing similar color to the one dyed traditionally with fresh juice extract. The powder colorants from leaves gave higher color strength than the powder from leaf juice. The powder colorant prepared from leaves with deep freezing was the most stable for long term storage as its color and color strength were not changed after 360 days. So, this was used for further dyeing to study the effects of concentration and repeat dyeing on color strength and colorfastness. Fastnesses to dry cleaning and rubbing were fairly good above 4 rating. Further study is needed to improve light fastness. It was concluded that the leaf powder colorant with deep freezing could be used as a substitute for traditional juice extract dyeing at all seasons.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.341-351
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• 2017

This study evaluates a cleaning method to maintain and minimize the change of blood soil for the selective removal of stains from textiles with historical significance and special meaning. Cotton and silk fabrics were soiled with blood, aged artificially and then washed by wet cleaning or dry cleaning (water, nonionic surfactant; Triton, natural surfactant; saponin, organic solvent; n-Decane). The washed fabrics were stored at room temperature for four years. The change of the blood soil was evaluated by SEM, weight, thickness, and color differences. Subsequently, the shape and the amount of blood adsorption on the fabric varied depending on fiber type and fabric structure characteristics; in addition, long term storage affected changes to blood soil. It was difficult to remove artificially aged blood soil from fabrics by wet or dry cleaning. However, the changes of the blood soil by these cleanings can be explained by the changes on SEM, weight, thickness and fabric color. The changes (especially color) showed over time. Wet cleaning showed that the changes of those factors were slightly lower than those by dry cleaning.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.23-32
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• 2009

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of leaf powder colorants as substitutes for traditional indigo dyeing. Leaf powder colorants were prepared by hot air($50^{\circ}C$) and room temperanrre($25^{\circ}C$) drying methods from fresh leaves. The presence of indigo in the leaf powder colorants was confirmed by UV/Visible absorption spectra. All the powder colorants showed broad absorption at 602 nm as same as synthetic indigo. Dyeing was done by reduction method with sodium hydrosulfite and sodium hydroxide. Leaf powder colorants produced blue color on silk fabrics, showing similar color to the one dyed traditionally with fresh juice extract. The powder colorants prepared at room temperature drying were more stable for long term storage than that prepared by hot air drying. Thus, the powder colorants prepared by room temperature drying was reduced and dyed in one-step process without sodium hydroxide in the dyebath for further investigate dyeing properties. K/S value of the fabric dyed without sodium hydroxide was much higher than one dyed with sodium hydroxide. Regardless of the addition of sodium hydroxide, rubbing fastness was fairly good showing above 4 rating. Fastness to dry cleaning and light of the fabrics dyed without sodium hydroxide were mote higher than that dyed in alkaline condition.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

Regarding experimental study on the dyeing properties of natural dye, I have dyed silk fabric with Styphnolobium japonicum, sappan wood, and indigo. The results of the experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, K/S and CIE Lab chromaticity co-ordinated. The results are as follows: In case of complex dyeing using Styphnolobium japonicum and sappan wood, dyeing with sappan wood, which is red related color, after dyeing with Styphnolobium japonicum, which is yellow related color, is more efficient. When dyeing was maden by complex of Styphnolobium japonicum and sappan wood, Dyeing method by the order of "Styphnolobium japonicum${\rightarrow}$sappan wood${\rightarrow}$mordanting" made the best result of complex dyeing. In case of complex dyeing using Styphnolobium japonicum and Indigo, dyeing with Styphnolobium japonicum after the indigo made the best result. When dyeing with indigo first, and then Styphnolobium japonicum, yellow color was not well dyed, and low level of saturation caused lusterless color. Ordering of Styphnolobium japonicum${\rightarrow}$sappan wood${\rightarrow}$indigo made the best result of complex dyeing in case of complex dying with Styphnolobium japonicum and indigo. Dyeing order, sappan wood first and then indigo last method shown 560~640 nm wavelength of maximum absorption which most color was blue related. In contrast, Indigo first and then sappan wood method shown 460~560nm wavelength of maximum absorption which color was red related. Complex dyeing with sappan wood and indigo was showing lusterless color. In case of dyeing with red and blue, dyeing with sappan wood and indigo was not appropriate.