• 보존과학연구
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• s.17
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• pp.65-99
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• 1996

We exanmined the each effect of $NO_2$ and $SO_2$gas, the maincomponets of air pollutants, on the deterioration of 6 organic materials with Gasexposure cabinet. The organic materials were used 2 kind of papers(Korean paper, Oldbook paper) and 4 kind of textiles (Cotton, Silk, Hemp, ramie) in gas exposure experiments. In order to know how to change of physical conditions, the materials were exposed to 2000, 1000 ppm. h of $SO_2$dose, to 100 ppm. h of $NO_2$ dose at 65% RH. The color difference, tensile strength, elongation coeffient, mass reduction and fabric status of each materials were discussed the following below.1. The color difference of cotton and hemp was larger than that of silk and ramie in the presence of $SO_2$ gas. and the color difference of korean paper was less than that of the textile materials in the presence of $SO_2$ gas.2. The tensile strength of cotton fell suddenly at 100ppm.h of $SO_2$ dose and even became 56% of the unexposed cotton.3. The weight of 6 materials began to decrease in the presence of $SO_2$ gas.4. The tensile strength and elongation of the materials tended to decrease at 12.5ppm.h of $NO_2$ especially silk was the strongest tendency to decrease.5. Cotton, hemp and ramie were influenced by $SO_2$ gas more than by $NO_2$, but silk were influenced by $NO_2$ more thang by $SO_2$ at 10ppm.h of each noxious gas.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.159-170
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• 2014

Recent concerns about the PFOA(perfluorooctanoic acid), have been increasing, which is generally applied in the water-repellent finishing process of textile products. It has been proven through animal testing to be harmful to humans, as possible carcinogens and neuro-toxic material. Thus U. S. Environmental Agency has gone as far as requiring the material to be eliminated in its entirety by 2015. As a viable alternative to this water-repellent finishing agent, the development of C6 product is gaining its popularity. The effects of PFOA finishing on the silk fabrics were examined, and we reviewed parameters of the needed process for optimizing appearance and functionality of silk fabrics treated with eco-friendly water-repellent finishing agent. Cross-linking agent affected the most on black color of reactive ink, among the physical properties. The contact angle reading was the highest in $8g/{\ell}$ of concentration for all fabrics. All the fabric specimens, subjected to the DTP and water repellent finishing, exhibited higher stiffness, where rayon specimen showed the highest, compared to the untreated specimens. The results may provide basic information leading to the development of value-added silk fabrics with water-repellency without excessive deterioration of the delicate appearance and inherent soft touch.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.173-179
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• 2012

Silk fabric treated with fluorocarbon resins (Asahi Guard AG-7005 and AG-E061) were washed and subsequently heat treated varying the washing cycles and the temperature. After the processing, the water and oil repellencies, and contact angle to water were evaluated. The water and oil repellencies decreased by the washing and recovered by following heat treatment. Also ESCA measurement was carried out to investigate the surface chemical composition of the treated fiber. The $F_1s$ intensity of the treated fabric decreased by the washing and recovered by the subsequent heat treatment. On the other hand, the $O_1s$ intensity increased by the washing and decreased by following heat treatment. From the results, it is clear that change of the water and oil repellencies of the silk fabric treated with fluorocarbon resin occurred by the washing and subsequent heat treatment. Considering a change of the water repellency of the silk fabric treated with fluorocarbon resin, it seems likely that the fluoroalkyl group of the fluorocarbon resin rotates from surface to inside of the fiber by the washing to adapt to the hydrophilic circumstance, and the orientation of the fluoroalkyl groups of the resin disturbed by the washing recovers the orientation to the fiber surface after the subsequent heat treatment.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.30-37
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• 1999

The extracts drawn out from Artemisia princeps by water was concentrated. Using this concentrate the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed, and they were measured with the K/S value, surface color and mordant quantity in order to evaluate the dyeability and the antimicrobial activity. The results are as follows; 1. The K/S value of the silk fabric was much higher than that of the cotton fabric. And the color yield of the dyed silk fabric was most efficient for the premordanting method. 2. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants used or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was generally dark. For the Cr-mordant among various mordants, the chroma produced clear and the color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. 3. On the other hand the amount of absorbed mordant in the silk fabric was larger than that of the cotton fabric. And the Cu-mordant was most efficient. 4. The color fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. Cr-mordant improved best in all of the dry cleaning, wet cleaning and perspiration fastness. Iron and abrasion fastness showed over 4-5 grade regardless of any mordant. And light fastness was best in Cu-mordant. 5. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial activity in both of mordant treat silk and cotton fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.194-201
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• 2015

Cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with Houttuynia cordata extract using aqueous ethanol solution and the dyeing and post-treatment conditions were optimized to impart antimicrobial activity to the fabrics. The dried Houttuynia cordata can be extracted at $80^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours using an aqueous ethanol solution containing 70%(w/w) ethanol. For the highest color yields. Both cotton and silk fabrics can be dyed at $100^{\circ}C$ for 60min with 10g/L of NaCl under pH 4. Silk fabrics can be dyed to higher K/S than cotton fabrics. The color fastness properties of the dyed fabrics were good when either citric acid crosslinking or aluminum alum mordanting was carried out as a post treatment. The dyed silk and cotton fabrics with the post treatments showed excellent antimicrobial activity against both Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.51-62
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• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.124-134
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• 2018

This study examined the dyeing characteristics and spectrum of cotton and silk by using dyeing solution extracted from aronia. The value $L^{\ast}$ which indicates the brightness of cotton regardless of mordant increases with increasing pH from pH 3.5 to pH 10.5. The color difference value(${\Delta}E$) of the cotton was generally high in pH 3.5 regardless of mordant existence. The silk showed the highest ${\Delta}E$ value in pH 3.5 dye solution as cotton did. On the other hand, the silk with mordant dyed showed the highest ${\Delta}E$ value in pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with Aronia solution turns out red in pH 3.5, blue in pH 7 and yellow in pH 10.5. This is because of the amino acid, one of the silk ingredients, combines with a part of anthocyanin to show blue. As the result of the spectrum measurement, the maximum absorption wavelength of Aronia solution was increased in the order of pH 10.5, pH 3.5 and pH 7, regardless of extraction temperature and mordant. The measurement results of color fastness to washing and color fastness to light are generally low. Therefore, there is a need for further study to improve color fatness in the future.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.194-205
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• 2013

In this study, we report dyeing properties and functionality of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with methanol extract from Juniperus chinensis heartwood. Non-aqueous dye of Juniperus chinensis heartwood extracted with methanol was expressed reddish color. It showed relatively good affinity to silk than cotton. Dye uptake of cotton and silk continued to increase according to the increase of the dye concentration. Cotton was not affected by the dyeing temperature and time, however, dye uptake of silk was increased as the dyeing time and temperature were increased. Dye uptake of cotton and silk were the highest at pH 8 and pH 6 respectively. Dyed fabrics showed various colors depending on mordant types and mordant concentration. Washing, light and perspiration fastness were not good. However, rubbing and dry cleaning fastness showed relatively good grade. Dyed fabrics of ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability were improved. Also, dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.36-42
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• 1990

The effect of urea and its derivatives, which are known as structure breakers of water, in the dyeing of silk with acid dyes was investigated. Without ureas the maximum dye uptake was observed at $60^{\circ}C$ when dyed with Milling Cyanine 5R, but in the presence of ureas the maximum dye uptake was decreased and its temperature also shifted to lower regin in the order of urea >N-methyl urea > N,N-dimethyl urea>tetramethyl urea. These tendencies were more marked in the dyeing of silk fiber with Orange II, a typical levelling type acid dye. These can be interpreted as the decrease in the hydropholic interaction between fiber molecules which results in the broadening of the inter micelie spacing. The increased partition coefficient of dye molecules in the bath by the action of ureas also contributes to dyeing results, and it can be seen from the spectral characteristics of dyes in aqueous urea solution.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.57-57
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• 2011