• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.10-15
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• 2004

The colorants were extracted from the flower leaf of rose using a buffer solution. Dyeing properties and the fastness of silk fabrics dyed with rose flower extracts were investigated. K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased as the concentration of rose flower extracts was increased. Optimum dyeing temperature of rose flower extracts was $30^{\circ}C$. Fastness were generally good except light fastness which was extremely poor.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.634-638
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• 2006

The significance of this study is the demonstration of a new method of preservation procedure for national-treasure-class cultural-assets by examining the characteristics of the Jeogori relic, presumed to be that of King SeJo, and validating the preservation process. This Jergori as well as the wooden Munsu-donja Buddha statue from which they were found are designated as national treasure. The Jeogori relic is made of light silk and dimensions mark 77 cm in length, 67 cm in width, and 94 cm in sleeve length. It is a typical Jeogori worn in the Chosun Dynasty. Preservation procedure was in the following order: Removing dust and pollutants by vacuum, washing, removing creases, reinforcing the clothes, settling at paulownia backboard, and packing. Storage and exhibition of remains was executed with as minimal folding as possible, and microbiological damage prevention was performed by dyeing antibacterial treatment with eugenol onto supporting cloth. The relic, conservatively treated in accordance with the above procedure, is currently kept at the storage facility of the citadel Museum in the Woljeong Temple. It is displayed annually to the general public for approximately two weeks.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.231-241
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• 2009

Embroidery is one of the oldest methods of textiles surface decoration. The masterpiece "Tapisserie de Bayeux," is one of the earliest Medieval embroideries. Embroidery was popular on a broad scale with introduction of what was called Opus Anglicanum("English work") in the 13th century. France had been producing sophisticated embroideries since the 16th century. England was the country producing the greatest quantity of embroideries of the best quality in the 17th century. Until the 17th century, the Church was the most important patron of needlework. Then a shift in emphasis occurred towards the domestic embroidery. English 17th century domestic embroidery reached a high point of technical brilliance and charm. In France, embroidery was produced on hangings as well as costume. 18th century interest in embellishing the domestic environment, embroideries became much more finely detailed than those of the 17th century with the use of finer wool and silk threads. French silk were the finest in the world, and their embroidery was arguably equally fine both in furnishing textiles and on costumes. "Art Needlework" was the major movement in embroidery in the late 19th century. The Royal School of Needlework was founded in 1872, followed by similar institutions around Britan. Splendid fashion embroidery of French haut-couture that was represented to Lesage atelier in 20th century.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.391-400
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• 2007

This purpose of this study is to announce the research for the formative characteristics and the constructive characteristics for the 23 pair of pants excavated from the tomb of Yeosan Song's family at Mokdal Dong in Daejeon. Men and women wore the open-type over the close-type pants. Song Hyo-sang and Chungjoo Park wore the 1 or 2 pairs of the open-type pants over the 3 pairs of close-type pants. Song Hee-jong and his wife Sonhung An wore a pair of the open-style pants over the 1 or 2 pairs of pants. It was due to the shortage of goods by the war that Song Heejong had less shrouds than Song Hyosang. The pants were almost made of the cotton and the silk. The open-type pants worn inside was made of the cotton but outside was made of the silk. That time the cotton was used for the unlined underwears for the health and the protection against the cold and the hot. The silk was used for the outwear. In the construction type, 12 pairs of pants were unlined, 6 pairs of pants were quilted, 4 pairs of pants were padded, and 1 pair of pants was lined. All unlined were the close-type and the quilted and padded pants were the open-type, which were worn inside. Lined type was just one. In the wearing order of shrouds, type, textile, and constructive type, Song Hyosang and Chungjo Park were similar, Song Heejong and Sonhung An were similar.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.21-36
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• 2021

This paper discusses textile motifs depicted in the hunting panels inside the late Sasanian larger grotto at Taq-i Bustan. Scholars of Iranian art have referred to these rock reliefs in order to trace the origin of Sasanian textile decorations and their exportation in the whole medieval Eurasian continent. This however does not seem to be the case. In fact, the textile motifs reproduced at Taq-i Bustan could be a good term of comparison only for late Sasanian textile production. Moreover, nothing like this has appeared in previous Sasanian rock reliefs. For this reason, the present paper argues that some of those motifs could actually be importations from Central Asia where reproductions of textiles embellished with those motifs were very popular. Islamic written sources on Taq-i Bustan rock reliefs could be very useful to support some ideas expressed in this paper.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.31-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.10
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• pp.1228-1241
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• 2011

This research compares the change in berberine content in liquid dye and the color and dye uptake of amur cork tree dyed silk upon thermal degradation treatment. Thermal degradation of amur cork tree extract and liquid dye of standard berberine was carried out at room temperature, $4^{\circ}C$ refrigeration, and $100^{\circ}C$ oven conditions for 0-192 hours. Amur cork tree dyed silk was treated in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven for 0-240 hours. The berberine content in liquid dye was measured by the relative abundance of the berberine peak in the HPLC-MS chromatograms. The color and dye uptake of dyed silk was measured using K/S value and colorimetric data. The berberine content in standard berberine dye was 2.4 times that of the amur cork tree extract. A similar result was observed between the K/S value of standard berberine dyed silk and that of amur cork tree dyed silk. The berberine dyed silk showed the highest dye uptake after 120 hours in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven. This result was similar to the change in a berberine content in liquid dye in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven treatment. The change of the K/S value of amur cork tree dyed silk and berberine content of amur cork tree extract was similar up to 24 hours. The result suggests that there is a direct relationship between the color change of amur cork tree dyed silk and the berberine content in amur cork tree dye.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.983-989
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• 2011

This study aimed to identify mordant effects of Chestnut hulls. The color of post and pre-mordanted fabrics were measured in terms of H, V, C, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and K/S values. In addition, color fastness and antimicrobial activity were evaluated. The pre-mordant concentration of Chestnut hulls for cotton, mercerized cotton and silk was optimized to 50% (o.w.f.) and 70% (o.w.f.), respectively. Post-mordant concentration of Chestnut hulls of mercerized cotton, silk and cotton was optimized to 50% (o.w.f.) and 90% (o.w.f.), respectively. The hue of fabrics was influenced by mordant methods, such as pre-mordant and post-mordant, slightly. Wet cleaning fastness of pre-mordanted cotton and mercerized cotton fabrics was higher than that of post-mordanted fabrics. The wet cleaning fastness of silk fabrics was not affected by the mordant method, and their fastness were proved to be excellent. The dry cleaning fastness of post-mordanted cotton fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted cotton fabrics. The dry cleaning fastness of mercerized cotton and silk was proved to be excellent regardless of mordant methods. The antimicrobial activity of Oenothera odorata jacquin dyed fabrics and Chestnut hulls mordanted fabrics was proved to 99.9%, and their excellent antimicrobial activity remained after wet and dry cleaning.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.515-522
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• 2017

The natural dyeing industry has been faced with increasing demands of constant needs for environmentally and body friendly clothing products among modern consumers. Natural dyeing has attracted attention as a next-generation technology in green textiles. Dyestuffs need to be diversified for technological development activation in order to meet the increasing demands for natural dyeing. This study extracted dyeing solutions from the leaves of the Rose of Sharon (the national flower of South Korea) and investigated its dyeing properties for the development of various natural dyestuffs. This study investigates the dyeability of silk fabrics with Rose of Sharon leaves extract. Optimal conditions for dyeing of silk fabrics with the extract of Rose of Sharon were $40^{\circ}C/80min$ and $90^{\circ}C/60min$ with 100% concentration. Looking at the results, it showed the best K/S value at pH3, Sn pre-mordanting and Fe post-mordanting. Color fastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing and perspiration was good at grade 4-5 or 4. However, light fastness was observed in grade 2. In aspect of functional property, it showed an excellent result of 90% deodorization rate. In addition, its proven functionalities (deodorant properties) will help to produce high value added environment-friendly products. Those findings demonstrate the possibilities of the Rose of Sharon as an environment-friendly dye.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.79-85
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• 2002

To develope natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the waste grape juice. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing time, dyeing temperature, pH and concentration of dyebath and mordants which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(${\Delta}E$) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk dyed fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were very slightly increased with dyeing time and the color of dyed silk was light purple and the cotton, ramie and hemp was light red purple. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color became lighter with dyeing temperature increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color changed from light purple to blue with the pH of dyebath increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were slightly increased with the concentration of dyebath increased. The color of dyed fabric changed with the mordant treatment and were different among the experimental fabrics. On the whole, blue tone increased with the Al and Fe mordant and green tone increased with the Cu mordant. The color fastness of dyed silk fabrics to light, washing (change) and perspiration (change) was bad and color fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing were good.