• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.478-485
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• 2012

The dying properties of fabrics with Chaenomelis Fructus extract were studied through an investigation of the characteristic of Chaenomelis Fructus colorants, the effect of dyeing conditions (dye temperature, dyeing concentration, and times on dye uptakes), effect of mordant, effect of UV irradiation, and color change in addition, antimicrobial ability and deodorant ability were estimated. In the UV-Visible spectrum, the wavelength of maximum absorption of Chaenomelis Fructus extract was 280 nm and showed that tannin is the major pigment component. From the increase of absorbance by UV irradiation, it was assumed that catechol tannin color was developed through UV irradiation. An increased dyeing concentration resulted in a larger dye uptake. Dye uptake increased as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Chaenomelis Fructus extract showed relatively good affinity to silk than cotton. Mordant, Fe and Cu were effective to increase the dye uptake of cotton fabric in addition, the dye uptake of silk fabric mordanted with Fe and K improved. UV irradiation let the color of dyed fabrics develop regardless of the UV irradiation stage however, UV irradiation on the dyed fabric was more effective than on the extract for the color development. Dyed silk fabric showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9% in addition, deodorant ability improved in the fabric dyed with Chaenomelis Fructus extract.

• 복식
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• 제61권7호
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• pp.67-79
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• 2011

This study is to design a ball-jointed doll costume with historical research in clay female doll's costume from Hwangsung-dong tomb of the Silla Dynasty[新羅] in 7C. This clay female doll's costume was characterized by slim silhouette, long sleeves, no neckline, side slit, high waistline, and bun on the back neck of representative of the early era. According to literature of 7-8C and textile relics, it is presumed that she wore short Jeogori[短衣, Dan-eui] with long sleeves and two layered skirt, and Dan-ryeong(團領) could be added as attachment that is reflective of the time era. For making design costume, Ra[羅, silk gauze] was used for long Dan-ryeong, plain silk and brocade[錦, Geum] for Dan-eui and skirt as a special textile of this period. Waist dart and small snap were added to the costume of ball-jointed doll because of hardness and curvy shape of doll's body, without contradicting traditional value. For better use of this study and cost reduction purposes, development of production system for traditional doll costumes should be considered.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.270-280
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• 2012

This study examined the dyeing characteristics of five oriental herbs, namely Gardenia jasminoides, Sophora japonica L., Rheum coreanum, Rhus javanica L., Ginkgo biloba L., on fabrics with traditional fermentation using malt. And the properties of Hwangsu (mineral water) of Yeongcheon (Korea)as a mordant in the post-treatment of textile were evaluated. The dyeability and fastness of cotton fabric and silk to light and washing as well as different fermentation periods and temperatures were investigated, and the following results were obtained. The dyeability of the fermented and non-fermented material did not show a significant difference. Fabrics mordanted with Hwangsu generally exhibited a reddish color due to the presence of iron. The dyeing of cotton fabric and silk by fermentation and Hwangsu mordanting were found to be effective on Rhus javanica L. and Rheum coreanum. These results were confirmed through fastness to light 3 of cotton on Rheum coreanum and 3-4 of silk on Rhus javanica L., respectively. The washing fastness of both fabrics dyed with fermented Rhus javanica L. and Rheum coreanum was improved, showing higher K/S value after washing than before washing.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.53-82
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• 2022

The Hebrew word for silk, meshi, is mentioned in the Bible only once and there is a possibility that the item to which it referred was made of local wild silk. Although Jewish historical sources from the Roman and Byzantine periods mention silk many times, only a few silk textiles have been discovered at a sited dated to the Byzantine period (4^th-7^th centuries CE). The word "silk" occurs in the New Testament, although only once. A turning point in the history of the Negev (Southern Israel) occurred around 400 CE when it underwent a period of prosperity related to the advent of Christianity and pilgrimage, which enabled the purchase of imported silk textiles. The Early Islamic period (7-8th centuries CE) yielded four (out of 310) silk textiles from Nahal 'Omer on the Spice Routes joining Petra, in the Edom Mountains of modern Jordan, and the mercantile outlets on the Mediterranean Sea, notably Gaza and El Arish. The most important silk textile assemblage in the Southern Levant was found near Jericho at Qarantal Cave 38 and dates to the medieval period (9th-13th centuries CE). Linen textiles decorated with silk tapestry originating in Egypt date back to the 10-11th centuries CE. Mulham textiles - silk warp with hidden cotton wefts - were discovered in the medieval fortress on Jazirat Fara'un (Coral Island) in the Red Sea, 14 kilometers south of Elat and today located in Egypt. Mulham is mentioned in literary sources of the ninth century in Iraq and Iran, whence it spread through the Islamic world. The article will present aspects of the origin, transmission, and exchange of these textiles.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.795-801
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• 2016

This study was conducted to suggest the best union fabric to combine with cellulose fiber for summer and in-between seasons. Four types of union fabric, viz. silk/flax, silk/cotton, rayon/flax and rayon/cotton, were used as sample fabrics after weaving them in a local textile factory. The air permeability, moisture regain, water absorption, water vapor permeability and thermal insulation of the samples were tested. The results are as follows. The rayon/flax union fabric is the most suitable for summer clothes due to its having the best comfort property of air and water vapor permeability, and moisture and water absorption. For in-between seasons, it is recommended to use the silk/cotton union fabric because of its good thermal insulation properties.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.43-50
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• 2002

Silk/Cotton fabrics were treated with butanetetracarboxylic acid(BTCA) to improve crease recovery and anti-shrinking properties at various curing temperatures and pH values. We investigated the effects of finishing conditions on add-on of BTCA, bending property(E, 2HB), wrinkle recovery angle, shrinkage, and dyeing properties. The Add-on of BTCA increased with increasing curing temperature and concentration. Crease recovery was improved with decreasing shrinkage. Maximum add-on of BTCA was showed at pH 2.5. In case of dyeing and mercerization, silk side treated with BTCA was more flexible than untreated, whereas cotton side was more stiff. In dyeing after mercerization, B and 2HB values were higher and K/S values were doubled nearly. The hand of fabric improved with decreasing B and 2HB by the BTCA treatment. BTCA treatment after reactive dyeing improved crease recovery, and caused no change of color difference. However, BTCA treatment after reactive dyeing didn't improve crease recovery, whereas B and 2HB were decreased considerably by the treatment.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.1-9
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• 1993

The polymethylhydrosiloxane(PMHS) was synthesized by the co-hydrolysis of methyldichlorophydrosilane and ethyl ether, also polydimethylsiloxane(PDMS) was synthesized by the hydrolysis of dimethyl dichlorosilane and ethyl ether. The silk fabrics were treated with PMHS and PDMS in order to improve the water repellency and the wrinkle recovery. Also the effect of PMHS concentration, PDMS concentration and cure temperature on the physical properties of silk fabrics were studied. The maximum water repellency and maximum wrinkle recovery were obtained from the fabrics treated under the conditions 5%-PMHS and PDMS at 16$0^{\circ}C$, and 3%-PMHD and PDMS at 16$0^{\circ}C$, respectively. The tensile strength, the breaking elongation, the reflection and the bending properties of silk fabrics were not degraded severely by the treatment of PMHS or PDMS.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.117-124
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• 1993

The Silk fabric was dyed with various acid dyes, and than treated with copper sulfate or copper sulfate/thiourea. Munsell color system, dye exhaustion and light fastness were investigated for the treated fabrics. The results obtaind are as follows: 1) The color variation of the silk-dyed fabric by aftertreatment with copper sulfate was shown redish, but original color with copper sulfate/thiourea. 2) Copper sulfate/thiourea was much more effective than copper sulfate only to increase the light fastness. 3) The crease recovery was increased by aftertreatment with copper sulfate/thiourea. 4) Dye exhaustion and tensile strength of the silk-dyed fabric by aftertreatment with copper sulfate was decreased about 8-15% more than those of untreated.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.239-247
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• 2000

The coloring matter was extracted from the heartwood of Amur cork tree by distilled water. Change of UV-Visible spectra of coloring matter solution by extraction condition and stability for irradiation were determined, and the effect of repeated dyeing with condition of dyebath and mordanting method on shade depth and lightfastness were also investigated. The results are as follows : 1) Absorbance of Amur cork tree extract increased with the lapse of extraction time. λmax of color solution extracted from Amur cork tree was found at 420, 333, and 262nm. 2) Absorbance of Amur cork tree extract decreased remarkably after 2hr irradiation. 3) The K/S of silk fabrics increased with the increase of dyeing temperature, time, amounts of Amur cork tree for extraction, and pH of color solution. 4) K/S of silk fabrics dyed by repeated dyeing method was affected by pH and concentration of color solution. 5) Lightfastness of silk twice dyed with Amur cork tree extract after pre-mordanted by 8%(o.w.f) chromium acetate was moderately improved.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.199-206
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• 2000

Silk fabric was dyed using methanol extract of Chrysanthemum boreale at $60^\circ{C}$ for 40min. The K/S value of the silk fabric was highest in the premordanting method, while the amount of absorbed mordant was largest in the Cu-mordanting. The surface colors of the dyed fabric highly depended upon mordants or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was dark. The chroma was high by using the Cr-mordant and the color difference was distinct by using the Fe-mordant. Cu-mordanted silk showed highest fastness to light. Dyed silk fabrics by mordanting method showed good antimicrobial activity ad deodorization property.