• Acta Via Serica
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.117-140
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• 2021

At the beginning of the Roman imperial period, moralizing authors criticized a material from the East that quickly gained popularity among the elites: silk. During Late Antiquity, the trade, production, and use of purple-dyed silks increasingly became the privilege of the emperors. While literature, court poetry, and laws give insights into the discourses surrounding silk, they are rather unspecific concerning silk qualities. This contribution analyzes the scattered descriptions of silks in Greek and Latin texts in a diachronic perspective, with a focus on the 1^st cent. BCE to the 4th cent. CE, paying particular attention to the terminology, products, origins, and qualities of silk. The aim is to build a framework for comparisons with archaeological silk finds and other textile terminologies along the Silk Roads. Here, the silk finds from the oasis city of Palmyra/Tadmor in modern-day Syria, dating from the 1st cent. BCE to the 2nd cent. CE, will be used as a case study for the early imperial period. Taking these silk finds as a comparison, it will be shown that Greek and Latin terminology does not match the variety of silks known in the Mediterranean. Rather, linguistic differentiations focus on the forms in which silk reached the Mediterranean, as skeins, yarns, and fabrics, as well as on the different kinds of silks that were produced in the West, namely pure silk and half-silken fabrics, checkered "scutlata" damasks, purple-dyed, and gold-embellished silks. In contrast, silks from the East were subsumed under the term for "silks from the silk people" or simply "silks". Moreover, ancient authors do not use the terms in the same way. These findings show the limitations of Western silk terminology and the importance of combining archaeological and written sources.

• Biotechnology and Bioprocess Engineering:BBE
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.186-191
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• 2005

In this study, a microorganism-produced protease was used to improve the quality of fabrics. First, the protease-producing bacteria were isolated from soils, and one of them was selected and identified as Bacillus sp. SJ-121. The optimal medium composition for its growth and protease production was determined to be as follows: glucose 1g/L, soybean meal 0.5g/L, soy peptone 0.5, $K_2HPO_4\;0.2,\;MgSO_4\cdot7H_2O\; 0.002,\;NaCl\;0.002,\;and\;Na_2CO_3g/L$. Also, the optimal temperature for the production of the protease by Bacillus sp. SJ-121 was about $40^{\circ}C$ at pH 7. The wool and silk were treated with the protease from Bacillus sp. SJ-121. Following the protease treatment, changes in the surface of a single yarn of the fabrics were observed by both an optical microscope and a scanning electron microscope (SEM). Changes in the K/S value of the wool and silk were measured by spectrophotometric analysis, in order to determine the amount of dye uptake in the fabrics. We also performed a tensile strength examination in order to determine the degree and nature of mechanical changes in single yarns of the wool and silk fabrics. By increasing the protease treatment time to 48 h, the dyeing characteristics of the fabrics were enhanced, and the surfaces of the single yarns of the fabrics became smoother, due to the removal of soil and scale in them. However, no mechanical changes were detected in the fabrics. Therefore, we suggest that proper treatment of the protease produced by Bacillus sp. can improve the quality of silk and wool.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2007

This study suggests the new technique to express the texture that copes with the demands of the times by trying to apply the new Nuno-felt technique, to the silk, the representative material for emotion, in order to provide the basic data for the development of highly value added and competitive materials in the domestic and international markets as well as to meet the demand of consumers in the high emotion age pursuing the idiosyncrasy and qualify enhancement. Nuno-felt is the felting technique that places the wool of desired thickness on the thin fabric using wools and various kinds of fabric materials and rubs them. The samples are 3 kinds of silk including plain Chiffon with different touch, Pongee and Organza and Merino Wool, the best quality wool of wools. As a result, beyond the simple surface effect from the silk showing the superior drape feature with one color and soft wool, the Nuno-felt technique created the feminine as well as masculine, classic and modem image. Furthermore, the harmony of opacity and transparency produced the new dynamic and dimensional texture with the combination of different emotions through the visual emotion of different grey colors and rough, crude and soft touch. This study suggested the possibility that the Nuno-felt technique could create the new emotional materials for the modem sense by combining the materials with different features from the wools unlike the traditional simple felt technique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.41-53
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• 2012

Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S-twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.303-308
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• 2004

A natural colorant was extracted from Cassia tara L. using buffer solutions (pH: 2-11) as extractants. The dyeing solution (Cassia tara L. extract) extracted using pH 9 buffer solution was found to give the highest K/S values of dyed fabrics. Cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with Cassia tara L. extract at $60^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with pre-treatment of various metal salts as mordants. It was found that Cassia tara L. extract was polygenetic dyestuffs and its major components were anthraquinones. Studies have been made on the effects of the kind of mordant on dyeing properties and colour fastnesses of cotton and silk fabrics. The K/S of cotton fabrics increased in the order of the dyeing using $FeSO_4 >CuSO_4> ZnSO_4> MnSO_4\cong Al_2(SO_4)_3 > NiSo_4 > none$, however, the K/S of silk fabrics increased in the order of the dyeing using $FeSO_4 > CuSO_4 > ZnSO_4\cong Al_2(SO_4)_3 > MnSO_4\cong NiSO_4 > none$. It was found that the K/S values of dyed fabrics were largely affected by the colour difference $(\DeltaE)$ between mordanted fabric and control fabric. However, they were not depended on the content of mordanted metal ion of the fabrics. Mordants $FeSO_4$ and CuSO_4$ for cotton fabric, $FeSO_4,\; CuSO_4,\; and\; Al_2(S0_4)_3$ for silk fabric were found to give good light fastness (rating 4).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.115-122
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• 2009

Marbling dyeing technique shows beautiful flowing pattern because the pattern is transferred to the medium by the pigments floating onto the viscous solution base. However, this marbling pattern does not have any reproducibility and the result of accidental pattern formation. Marbling process contains many complicated procedures such as making marbling base, mordanting the medium, and bubble removal with size limitation. Computer changed the many aspects in textile design and digital technique is used in many design production. However, it is impossible to produce marbling pattern with digital drawing. In this research, the digital textile design starting from marbling pattern was developed for digital textile printing. Marbling was done to produce the initial motifs and scanned. Several marbling media such as silk, polyester, and paper were used. Photoshop was used to process and develop textile design based on these marbling motifs. One repeat was developed and various colorways were tried. The developed textile design were printed using DTP.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.561-569
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• 2020

In this study, the dyeing of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne alone and the combined dyeing of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell were first performed to compare dyeing properties. A combination extract of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell can be expected to improve coloration. A Hanbok design for children used a natural dyeing fashion dyeing method to make the Chrysanthemum pattern. Chrysanthemum indicum Linne is a type of wild chrysanthemum with various medicinal effects for headache and stress relief, skin diseases, insomnia and depression. Widely used onion shells have medicinal properties that help prevent and treat various adult diseases. The colors of silk dyed exclusively by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne, and the colors of silk dyed by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extract are yellow; in addition, silk dyed by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extracts were almost all unchanged. Four hanboks, which are comfortable for children to wear and use, were produced using Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extracts. If children wear hanbok fashion products with auspicious patterns, they can provide a chance to simultaneously experience the traditional symbolism of Korean patterns and culture. In addition, it is expected to develop pride in traditional dress culture.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.44-52
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• 2002

Recently there has been a growing interest in the use of natural dyes in textile applications. Natural dyes can exhibit better biodegradability and generally have a higher compatibility with the environment. In this study, the colorants of Catalpa ovata bark were extracted with water and analyzed by spectrophotometry for their main colorant species. Cotton, silk and wool fabrics have been dyed with aqueous extract of Catalpa ovata bark and their dyeabilities on the fibers were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing, drycleaning and light, and the effects on bacteriostatic rate and UV-B protection rate were also investigated. The major colorant of the extract of Catalpa ovata bark was shown to be 6-O-trans-caffeoyl-$\beta$-D-glucopyranoside. Cotton, silk and wool fabrics dyed with the extract of Catnip ovata bark were colored in yellowish red tint. The optimum dyeing condition of the colorants extracted from Catalp ovata bark was three repeated dyeing at $95^\circ{C}$ for 1 hr using post mordanting. For dyed silk and wool fabric, the fastness to washing were improved by mordanting, and the fastness to drycleaning were very outstanding. In case of wool fabric dyed with the extract of Catalpa ovata bark, the bacteriostatic rate was increased drastically by 98.0%, and UV-B protection rate was increased by 97.3%.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.87-91
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• 2008

It is commonly known that water repellency of the fabric treated with fluorocarbon resin brings about a decrease by the washing and recovers by the subsequent heat treatment. In this article, effect of the water repellency was investigated on the nylon 6, triacetate and silk fabrics treated with hydrocarbon and silicon resins. Hydrocarbon and silicon resins have been widely used in the textile finishing as the softening and water proofing agents. The fabrics were treated with hydrocarbon resins, Paragium JQ and RC (Ohara Paragium Chemical Co.) and a silicon resin, Poron MR (Shinetsu Chemical Co.), and then washed and subsequently heat treated. Although the water repellency increased by the resin treatment, it decreased by the washing apparently and recovered a little by the heat treatment. The effect of the heat treatment was small comparing with that of the fluorocarbon resin. Furthermore, as a mechanical property of the treated fabric, KES shearing and bending hysteresis parameters, modulus and hysteresis width of the hydrocarbon resin-treated nylon 6, triacetate and silk fabrics decreased by the heat treatment after washing. Therefore, the treatment is effective at improving the softening of the fabric in water repellent finish.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.51-57
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• 1984

This studies have been carried out to find anticrease finishing method other than urea formaldehyde polymerization method which the author had done it with his former report. Acrylic amide polymerization method with water solubility controlling device was developed in this parer and the obtained results are as followings. 1. Poor anticrease silk textile could improve as much as 25% than original fabric. 2. Light density with high twisted silk textiles may improve a few per cent increase of anticrease, because they held good anticrease nature as well as polyester fabric. 3. There was no significant stiffness change after such finish. 4. This finish is recommended to carry after dyeing process either yarn dye or cloth dyeing. 5. The finished textile with this method is recommended to wash with dry cleanning method.