• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1-9
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• 2004

The dyeings of cotton and silk fabric with Laurus tree extracts were investigated. The colorant was extracted with distilled water at $100^{\circ}C$ for lh. Dyeability(K/S), color fastness and antibacterial property of cotton and silk fabric were tested under conditions of various time, temperature, concentration, repeat-number of dyeing and mordants. The characteristics of dyeings Laurus extracts were figured out by K/S and CIELab values and color-fastness test was estimated in terms of wash fastness and light fastness. The maximum wavelength of spectrum was 670nm. The K/S value of cotton and silk fabric increased with increasing dyeing time and the exhaustion was saturated in 90min. Optical dyeing temperatures of cotton and silk fabrics were $60^{\circ}C$ and $80^{\circ}C$, respectively. The mordant effect on cotton fabric was achieved using Fe mordant. On the other hand, the mordant effect on silk fabric was obtained using Fe and Cu mordants. The wash fastness of cotton fabric was higher than that of silk fabric. Antibacterial property of silk dyeing was greater than that of cotton dyeing. In addition, the excellent antibacterial effect was imparted by Fe-post mordant method.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.8-18
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• 1994

In one bath dyeing system of silk/cellulose acetate fiber blend fabric with acid /disperse dyes, adsorption behavior of acid dyes and disperse dyes on silk and cellulose acetate fabrics were examined. In the dyeing of cellulose acetate with C. I. Disperse Red 19(Red 19) and C. I. Disperse Red 60(Red 60) at 8$0^{\circ}C$ and 10$0^{\circ}C$, dye uptake with Red 19 was higher than that with Red 60. When the silk/cellulose acetate dyed with Red 19 and Red 60 at 10$0^{\circ}C$, dye uptake on cellulose acetate was influenced by affinity of the dye to the silk fabric dyed together. When the silk/cellulose acetate dyed with Blue 80/Red 19 and Blue 80/Red 60 at 10$0^{\circ}C$, color of cellulose acetate dyed with Red 19 and Red 60 was not influenced by Blue 80 but silk dyed with Blue 80 was influenced by Red 19 and Red 60. Interrelation of K/S value and Munsell value was scarcely any but showed the change tendency of K/S value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.43-54
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• 2011

Digital Textile Printing(DTP) is appropriate for quick response system(QRS) and is closely connected with high value added fashion industry. Fashion products of high price are mainly silk and cotton. For high quality DTP products, it is important to optimize the parameters of media, pre and after-treatment, ink, printer, etc. DTP for these two fiber materials is also accompanied certainly with steaming as after-treatment process for coloration. Role of steam is like water in exhaustion dyeing. Steam can diffuse dye or ink in printing paste to fiber. Quality of DTP products depend on after-treatment processes such as steaming, washing, drying. Current production amount of DTP is smaller than one of conventional textile printing. However conventional after-treatment system has been using so far. This is mismatched with DTP in terms of process efficiency, spot work of small lot, quality control. In this study, continuous after-treatment system has been suitably designed for DTP that washing and drying are available after steaming. So, It is possible to improve efficiency of DTP process. Especially, the effects of after-treatment process, such as temperature of heat drum, steaming time on printability, color difference, color fastness were examined. Two types of samples(cotton knit and silk fabrics) were used. The results were obtained as follows : First, there is no a wide difference between the K/S values of cotton and silk treated with continuous after-treatment system and those of sample treated with conventional printing after-treatment method. So it is more effective to use the continuous after-treatment system than conventional printing after-treatment system in case of the daily throughput of 1,000 yards below. Second, after continuous after-treatment for DTP, K/S values were increased and lightness($L^*$) values were decreased. ${\Delta}E$ values were below 2.3. Third, DTP samples treated with continuous after-treatment system were tested for fastness(washing, light, rubbing). Grades of fastness(washing, light, rubbing) were above 3 grade.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.37-50
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• 1998

The goal of this suudy is to investigate the production and distribution of silk fabrics of the CHO-SUN Era. My conclusions culture was advanced as a result of its promotion by government authorities. It proceeded from south to north, and spread all over the country. The north became the center of the silkworm culture since cotton was cultivated in the south. Second, the production of silk fabrics proceeded by government orders at the beginning. But it proceeded by private enterprise at a later period. Since government-managed textile handicrafts began falling off during the 16th century, privately managed handicrafts were accomplished slowly. Third, at the same time as the introduction of natural cotton fabrics, the production of various fabrics in the CHO-SUN Era proceeded all over the country, and special production localities-formed. PYUNGAN-DO(평안도), HAMKYOUN-DO(함경도), HOANG HAE-DO(황해도), and KYUNG SANG-DO (경상도) were the main region of silk fabric production. Fourth, the silk fabrics were distributed through the capital markets and the province markets. And superior silk fabrics were distri-buted through the capital markets. And all sorts of low quality silks JU were distributed through the province market. Fifth, thus an abundance of superior silk fabrics was distributed in the CHO-SUN Era. But thequantity of production was not enough. And most of it was used in the Royal Court. The quantity of shortage was supplied by imports.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.1-6
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• 2005

This study were carried out to investigate the effects of mordants and mordanting methods under the various dyeing conditions such as temperature, time, pH, repetition of dyeing in the silk fabrics with Petasites japonicus leaf. It was the most high K/S values of the silk fabrics dyed with Petasites japonicus leaf according to co mordanting and used cupric sulfate, ferric sulfate as mordanting agents. K/S values of the silk fabrics dyed with Petasites japonicus leaf were increased gradually with dyeing temperature, dyeing time, repetition of dyeing was higher and the optimum pH was pH 7. Silk fabrics were colored yellowish orange and surface color(munsell value) was changed from 8.3YR to 2.0Y by using mordanting agents and those of the silk showed high tone when mordanting with cupric sulfate but decolored and darked when mordanting with ferric sulfate. Washing fastness of silk fabrics were good in 4 ～ 5 grade, so washing fastness of the silk fabrics was significantly improved when washed with the neutral detergent.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.150-157
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate the proper dyeing condition, color fastness and functionality of silk fabrics dyed with Zizania latifolia Turcz. FT-IR spectrum analysis suggests that colorants of Zizania latifolia Turcz. are tannins. The dyeing of the silk fabrics using Zizania latifolia Turcz. was very good even without pretreatment or mordanting treatment. Optimal dyeing conditions of silk fabrics were colorant concentration of 200%(o.w.f.), dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, dyeing time of 60 minutes and dyebath pH of 5.5. Color fastness of dyed silk fabrics to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light was 4~4-5, 5, 4~4-5(acidic), 4-5(alkaline) and 2 respectively. UV protection rate and deodorization rate of silk fabrics dyed with Zizania latifolia Turcz. were improved. Reduction rate(Staphyloccus aureus) of silk fabrics was excellent at 98.3%. As a result, it was confirmed that the Zizania latifolia Turcz. could be used as an eco-friendly functional natural dye.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.16-22
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• 2004

This study was carried out to investigate K/S values, surface color, the fastness to washing, bacteria reduction rate of the silk and cotton fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extract under the various dyeing conditions. The optimum dyeing temperature, dyeing time, dyeing pH and repetition of the silk fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extract were $l00^{\circ}C, 30min., pH 5, five times repetition respectively, but in the cotton fabrics, it were $60^{\circ}C . 30min., pH 7, one times repetition. It were colored orangish Yellow in the silk fabrics and colored bright yellow in the cotton fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extract. Surface color(munsell value) was not changed by the mordanting agents but those of the silk showed high tone when mordanting with stannous chloride, and it was decolored and darked when mordanting with ferric sulfate. The fastness to washing in the silk fabrics dyed with mordanting agents improved in 4～5 grade, but the cotton fabrics were 3～4 grade, so washing fastness of the silk and cotton fabrics were significantly improved when washing with the neutral detergent. The bacteria reduction rate of the silk fabrics increased drastically by dyeing of Rhus verniciflua extract.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.16-24
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• 1995

Traditionally dyeing fabric with dyestuff extracted from Indigo was a popular method of obtaining blue color in the world before synthetic dyestuff was developed in the 1890's. As the Korean traditional process of dyeing extracted from Indigo, there are two kinds of dyeing process; The deposite dyeing of muddy Indigo and the leaf dyeing of Indigo plant. In order to study the properties of leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing properties, color difference on cotton and silk fabrics under several dyeing conditions were investigated. In the dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing affinity of silk was higher than that of cotton, the cotton and silk fabrics were dyed dark yellowish Green and dark Blue, respectively. the dye uptake increased with the increase of dyeing temperature and of the unmber of dyeing times. When cotton and silk fabrics dyed with leaf dyeing of Indigo at 6$0^{\circ}C$ for six number of times, the K/S value of dyed cotton and silk were calculated 1.286, 2.613 respectively.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.217-223
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• 2022

Flame-retardant finished silk fabrics could release carcinogenic formaldehyde resulting from the conventional finishing agents. New water-soluble cyclophosphazene derivative can be used as a formaldehyde-free flame retardant for the silk protein. Dichloro tetrakis{N-[3-dimethylamino)propyl]methacrylamido}cyclophosphazene(DCTDCP) can be cured by heat or UV irradiation as a durable flame retardant for the silk fabrics. Treatment conditions were optimized including curing temperature and time, finishing formulations, and UV energy. At the 30% DCTDCP application, peak HRR and THR decreased by 42.6% and 49.6% respectively compared to the pristine silk fabrics. Also char residue increased up to 48% from 11% indicating solid-phase retarding mechanism. The flame-retardant silk fabrics showed a LOI of 31.1 and the washed sample maintained a LOI of 26.8 even after ten laundering cycles.