• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.49-59
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• 2009

The bast fibers of paper mulberry were dyed by using sappan wood, gardenia, and gallnut extracted under various extraction conditions. The surface absorption rates, color, and sunlight fastness of the dyed fibers were compared to those of the dyed cotton and silk. The K/S values of silk showed the highest values, followed by gallnut, gardenia, and sappan wood. The optimum extraction conditions of the dye materials were 20 g/L (input amount of dye materials per liter), $90^{\circ}C$ (extraction temperature), and 30 minutes (extraction time). The values of saturation were observed to increase with the increase of the amount of dye materials, extraction time, and extration temperature. However, no effect were found on the values of hue and lightness. In all samples, the developed colors dyed by sappan wood and gardenia were the series of YR, and Y, respectively. The colors of dyed cotton and bast fibers of paper mulberry by gallnut were the series of Y and the dyed silk showed the series of YR. The values of saturation of the bast fibers of paper mulberry by sappan wood and gardenia showed the highest values of saturation, followed by cotton, and silk. In the case of gallnut, cotton showed the highest values of saturation, followed by the bast fibers of paper mulberry, and silk. The sunlight fastness were not improved in all dyeing conditions.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.135-141
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• 2009

In this paper, Tagetes extracts were extracted from leave, root, stem and flower at $100^{\circ}C$ for 20 minutes. Silk fabrics were dyed with Tatetes Patula L. to investigate the dyeing properties in accordance with dye concentration, pH, temperature, time of pre-, simul- and post-treatment of mordants using the three types of mordants. As a result, the surface color of the silk fabrics was yellowish regardless of the types of mordants. However, the a values were decreased and b values were increased in the order of the dyeing using Al>Cu>Fe: Al mordanted silk fabrics were appeared in greenish yellow and Fe mordanted silk fabrics were done in redish yellow. K/S values of the silk fabrics treated with Fe mordant were 3 times higher than those of Al and Cu mordants according to the increase in dye concentration. This behaviour was shown even in the increase of mordant concentration due to the interaction of mordant and pigments of Tatetes Patula L. But, the types of mordants did not affect because the equilibrium was obtained in 20 minutes in a similar way. And it showed that the highest K/S value of the silk fabrics studied was pH 4 and $80^{\circ}C$ regardless of the types of mordants.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2010.03a
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• pp.64-65
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• 2010

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.635-641
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• 2013

This study examined the dye-properties of natural fabrics dyed with Coptis chinensis and Curcuma longa root fermented with fungi. The optimum culture conditions for the fermentation of microorganisms, the relationship between natural dye color and fermentation conditions were investigated. Two different medical herbs (ground to 80-100 mesh in size) were used as a natural dyeing source. Phellinus linteus (P. linteus), which can grow in different media, such as Agarmedium (only agar containing medium), maltose extract agar (MA) and potato dextrose extract agar (PDA) culture media, were isolated from the medium. P. linteus was confirmed to be the optimum microorganism for the fermentation of Coptis chinensis and Curcuma longa, and the MA medium was confirmed to be the best for culturing. When using the microorganism as the fermenting agent, $32^{\circ}C$ was found to be the optimum fermenting temperature for both natural colorants. Regarding the dyeing property of the fermented natural dye, silk was dyed quite darkly in an appearance by naked eye estimation and the K/S value in the color strength of silk reached a high level of 16 after the fermenting process. The washing fastness of dyed silk after treatment washing was reduced from 4 to under4 and indicates that dyed silk with fermented plant was not unsubstantial. The light fastness was 1 to 2, showing intended to maintain due to the fermentation process.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.496-501
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• 2009

In this study, a kiwifruit-produced protease was used to improve the quality of the wool and silk fabrics. The wool and silk were treated with the actinidin from kiwifruit. Following this protease treatment, changes in the surface of a single yarn of the fabrics were observed via both an optical microscope and a scanning electron microscope (SEM). In order to determine the amount of dye uptake in the fabric, changes in the K/S value of the wool and silk were measured by spectrophotometric analysis. Also, we performed a tensile strength examination to determine variation in their mechanical properties. By increasing the protease treatment time to 48h, the dyeing properties of fabrics were enhanced, and the surfaces of the single yarns of the fabrics became smoother, because of the removal of soil and scale in them. However, no mechanical changes were detected in the fabrics. Thereby, we suggest that the kiwifruit-produced actinidin treatment can improve the quality of the fabrics.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.23-32
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• 2002

The introduction of hybrid and exploitation of heterosis has played a vital role in Indian sericulture industry, which clearly depicts a quantum jump in silk production during the last four decades. Since, the introduction of heterosis, progress in silkworm breeding has depended on success or failure in identifying better combiners. Systematic procedures developed have enabled the breeders to identify the best combiners by combining ability test, line ${\TIMES}$ tester analysis or $D^2$ analysis for maximum expression of heterosis. The level of heterosis expressed in the crossbreed population is determined by the interaction between genotype and prevailing environmental factors. Except some of the pre and post cocoon parameters, heterosis is invariably higher in single crosses compared to three-way and double crosses. However, during hot and humid season, when rearing of F1 bivoltine hybrid is unsuccessful at field level and indigenous races results in very low and poor quality yield, three-way and double crosses can play an important role as an intermediary technology. The objective of this article is to review briefly the concept and causes of heterosis, utilization of different forms of heterosis in silk production and its significance in silkworm, Bombyx mori breeding.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.124-134
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• 2018

This study examined the dyeing characteristics and spectrum of cotton and silk by using dyeing solution extracted from aronia. The value $L^{\ast}$ which indicates the brightness of cotton regardless of mordant increases with increasing pH from pH 3.5 to pH 10.5. The color difference value(${\Delta}E$) of the cotton was generally high in pH 3.5 regardless of mordant existence. The silk showed the highest ${\Delta}E$ value in pH 3.5 dye solution as cotton did. On the other hand, the silk with mordant dyed showed the highest ${\Delta}E$ value in pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with Aronia solution turns out red in pH 3.5, blue in pH 7 and yellow in pH 10.5. This is because of the amino acid, one of the silk ingredients, combines with a part of anthocyanin to show blue. As the result of the spectrum measurement, the maximum absorption wavelength of Aronia solution was increased in the order of pH 10.5, pH 3.5 and pH 7, regardless of extraction temperature and mordant. The measurement results of color fastness to washing and color fastness to light are generally low. Therefore, there is a need for further study to improve color fatness in the future.

• Defense and Technology
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• no.9 s.127
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• pp.6-15
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• 1989

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.61-67
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• 2010

The bivoltine tropical tasar ecoraces of Antheraea mylitta Drury produces cocoons for seed production under seed crop rearing (July-August with $22{\sim}30^{\circ}C$ temperature and 50~70% relative humidity) and for silk production under commercial crop rearing (September-December with $17{\sim}27^{\circ}C$ temperature and 60~80% relative humidity). To consider the impact of hybrid vigour on egg, larva, cocoon and silk related commercial traits, the $F_1$ hybrids made among Daba, Jata and Raily ecoraces were assessed successively for three years. The hybrid vigour in the $F_1$ hybrid of Daba$\times$Jata ($T_7$) was positive for egg fertility (+23.1%), shell weight (+25.6%), silk yield (+79.0%) and filament length (+68.1%), with filament of high denier (11.98d) and reduced larval span (-7.1%). The Jata$\times$Daba ($T_8$) hybrid has shown negative heterosis in egg fertility (-8.0%) compared to the other F1 hybrids, Daba$\times$Raily ($T_9$) and Raily$\times$Daba ($T_{10}$), when they rise simultaneously during the commercial crop season. The better performance of parental ecoraces ($T_4$ to $T_6$) in their commercial traits during commercial crop over parents of seed crop ($T_1$ to $T_3$) and the superior performance of $F_1$ hybrids ($T_7$ to $T_{10}$) over parents of commercial crop ($T_4$ to $T_6$) during commercial crop season indicates the apparent hybrid vigour in tasar $F_1$ hybrids. As the Daba$\times$Jata ($T_7$) and Jata$\times$Daba ($T_8$) $F_1$ hybrids have shown highest hybrid vigour, their rearing during commercial crop can optimize the silk productivity and commercial sustenance of the tasar silk industry.