• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.506-513
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• 2013

Rubia cordifolia L (Indian madder) contains red color purpurin (65-67%) and yellow color munjistin (10-12%) as well as nordamncanthal (9-10%). Purpurin is a traditional red dye. The purpose of this research is to increase the dyeability of silk and light fastness of dyed silk fabric. We dyed silk fabrics after pretreatment to remove the yellow component of madder using various solvents such as ethyl acetate, ethanol, methanol, chloroform, and acetone. The total K/S value was the highest in the case of chloroform and reflectance was the lowest at the red color region from 470nm to 530nm. Chloroform dissolved the yellow color of Rubia cordifolia; in addition, we found that the total K/S value increased and the ${\Delta}E$ value decreased by chloroform pretreatment for silk dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.14-21
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• 2009

In this article, silk fabric was treated with silver nitrate ($AgNO_3$) as oxidizing agent, with conditions such as concentration, and treating time, and subsequently treated with reducing agents such as sodium boron hydride ($NaBH_4$) and sodium sulfide ($Na_2S$) to obtain cathodic coloration. After coloration of silk fabric, dyeing properties (K/S value), colorfastnesses such as wash, rubbing and light, and antibacterial activity property were examined. $AgNO_3$ treating time and reducing time did not influence K/S value, whereas the pH value at alkaline region showed a high K/S value of silk fabric. The cathodic colorations of silk fabric with both of reducing agents at $30^{\circ}C$ have excellent color fastnesses. Also the high antibacterial activities were obtained by the treatment with silver nitrate even at 1% of lower concentration.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.16 no.12
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• pp.593-602
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to investigate the coloring properties of non-mordant dyes by examining local literature on silk fabric dyeing using red-colored natural dyes. Natural dyes can be prepared from the following 8 materials: purple-fleshed sweet potato, Impatiens balsamina, mulberry, fruits of Ligustrum japonicum Thunb, guava leaves, dansam, hibiscus flowers, and pruned branches of Prunus persica. To examine the surface color calculated $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, ${\Delta}E^*$, and K/S value and H V/C. The variables considered in the dyeing experiment were dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and number of dyeing iterations, which were varied to evaluate the dyeing properties and color characteristics. As a result, the abovementioned variables, dye affinity, and red color expression were directly proportional to one another. In this study, it was found that red coloring can be obtained with natural dyes; moreover, excellent dyeing was achieved without the need for repeated dyeing or mordanting processes, which cause environmental pollution.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.116-121
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• 1999

This study was aimed to explain the essence of Hydroxylammonium hydrochloride(H.A.) effect on degummed silk fiber increasing the colour sites due to oxime generating reaction. H.A. in aqueous solution caues to increase the amount of [H+] and reduce pH values as the concentration of H.A. increases. The rate of [H+] absorption of silk fiker in acidic solution differs on the basic of solution pH and shows a specific uptake in each pH, the lower the pH of solution, the higher the amount [H+] absorption. The pH of solution after treating of silk fiber in H.A. and HCl, showed more remaining [H+] in H.A. solution due to [H+] releasing under the procedure of oxime production. Also it was revealed that in higher concentration of H.A. the reaction for oxime fixation in silk fiber carried out stonger and as a result the bigger gap with acid uptake curve appeared. FT-IR analysis of silk fiber treated with H.A. revealed the creating of intermolecular H-bond at the 2,981-2.930 cm-1, which was not appeared for nontraeted silk fibers and shows H-bond between N-OH group in oue chain and C=) group in another chain of silk protein. Colourimetry of dyed silk fiber after H.A. tratment showed that the silk fiber treated with the high concentration of H.A. compare to low concentration, absorbed more dyeing molecules and so Showed less percontage of Whiteness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.914-928
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• 2017

This research investigated the effect of pH of dyebath and dyeing temperature on the dyeability of indigotin and indirubin on silk as well as the relationship between the amount of indigotin and indirubin detected from the dyed silk through HPLC-DAD analysis and the color of samples measured using a spectro-colorimeter. Indigo standard dye and indirubin standard dye were deliberately mixed by ratios 100:0, 80:20, 60:40, 40:60, 20:80, and 0:100 to dye silk with a different pH of dyebath (7, 11) and different dyeing temperatures ($50^{\circ}C$, $70^{\circ}C$). The amount of indigotin and indirubin pigments in silk was calculated using regression equations obtained from standard calibration curves of indigotin and indirubin. A higher indigotin percent ratio resulted in the higher K/S values and the higher amount of indigotin detected from silk. However, higher indirubin percent ratio in the mixed dye did not relate to the higher indirubin pigment detected in silk. While indirubin showed low or negative contribution to the K/S values, it showed a higher effect on the color of dyed silk. Higher amounts of indirubin in dyed silk resulted in a darker PB color, which led to P color with increases in indirubin content.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.51-62
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to check color change depending on dyeing conditions when silk fabrics was dyed with gromwell and to investigate mordant effect when synthetic tannin was used as a mordant. First, when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell, the change of color, brightness and chroma were examined by measuring K/S value, a, b value, L value and C value depending on dyeing condition. Second, color, brightness and chroma differences which appeared after mordanting with synthetic tannin were investigated and muti-functional mordanting effect was confirmed with dyeing fastness, antibiosis. As a result of color analysis of gromwell, it was proved that the main pigment of gromwell was shikonin. Color was red purple at pH 3 when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell. But It became greenish and bluish as temperature rose and time passed by. And it grew reddish and yellowish as concentration level reached higher. The color became purple at pH 5 and purple blue at pH 7. Both at pH 5 and pH 7, it became greenish and yellowish, as temperature went up and time ran by. And it became reddish with concentration increasing. Brightness and chroma decreased with temperature and concentration increasing as well as time passing by. After mordanting with synthetic tannin, the color became less reddish at pH 3 and reddish-yellowish at pH 5 and pH 7. The brightness increased and the chroma decreased. At all pH, the color, the brightness and the chroma became similarly by synthetic tannin mordanting. Dyeing fastness of synthetic tannin mordanted fabric was higher than that of non-mordanted fabric. Especially, wet fastness at pH 3 improved from 1 grade before synthetic tannin mordanting to $3{\sim}4$ grade after tannin mordanting. Antibiosis was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.216-224
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• 2009

This study was accomplished to examine the dyeing property and functionality of both cotton and silk fabrics dyed with clove extract. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of dyeing property, antibiosis, and sun protection effectiveness for a clove. The study method used in this study was the experimental research to extract dyestuffs from a clove, to treat dyestuffs with a mordant, and then to measure dyeing colorfastness, antibiosis, and sun protection for dyed fabrics. As a result of the test for dyeing colorfastness, in the case of colorfastness to laundry, the degree of discoloration showed grade $1\sim4$ and the degree of pollution showed grade $4\sim5$. Colorfastness to perspiration for both cotton and silk fabrics dyed showed grade $1\sim2$ to $4\sim5$. Colorfastness to sunlight showed grade 2 to $4\sim5$. Colorfastness to rubbing showed grade $3\sim4$ to $4\sim5$. In the colorfastness to dry cleaning, the degree of discoloration showed grade $3\sim4$ and the degree of pollution showed grade $4\sim5$. As a result of the antibiosis test, for the Staphylococcus aureus, both cotton and silk showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.9% even after five times laundry, and for the Escherichia coli, cotton fabrics showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.9% only after one time laundry, but silk fabrics showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.9% even after five times laundry. As a result of the test for sun protection effectiveness, dyed silk fabrics showed the result more excellent than dyed cotton fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.32-38
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• 2003

To get the variety of color by natural dyeing, cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with natural indigo and safflower in turn. The two ways of dyeing processes were carried. First, silk and cotton fabrics were dyed repeatedly in safflower dyebath to five times to get the five fabrics dyed in different shades. And then indigo dyeing process was carried on the top of the dyed fabrics with safflower. In second way, the fabrics were dyed in five stages of shade by repetition of dyeing process in indigo dyebath. And then safflower dyeing was carried on the top of the dyed fabrics with indigo. When indigo dyeing process was added on the top of the fabrics dyed in five shades with safflower, the color differences decreased between five shades of fabrics, their color values got similar in hue, shade and chroma. When safflower dyeing process was added on the top of the fabrics dyed in five shades with indigo, the fabrics showed different hue of colors between red and blue of Munsell color circle such as RP, P and PB. Like almost of fabrics dyed with plants materials, the lightfastness and laundering fastness of dyed samples were poet and drycleaning fastness were good.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.478-485
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• 2012

The dying properties of fabrics with Chaenomelis Fructus extract were studied through an investigation of the characteristic of Chaenomelis Fructus colorants, the effect of dyeing conditions (dye temperature, dyeing concentration, and times on dye uptakes), effect of mordant, effect of UV irradiation, and color change in addition, antimicrobial ability and deodorant ability were estimated. In the UV-Visible spectrum, the wavelength of maximum absorption of Chaenomelis Fructus extract was 280 nm and showed that tannin is the major pigment component. From the increase of absorbance by UV irradiation, it was assumed that catechol tannin color was developed through UV irradiation. An increased dyeing concentration resulted in a larger dye uptake. Dye uptake increased as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Chaenomelis Fructus extract showed relatively good affinity to silk than cotton. Mordant, Fe and Cu were effective to increase the dye uptake of cotton fabric in addition, the dye uptake of silk fabric mordanted with Fe and K improved. UV irradiation let the color of dyed fabrics develop regardless of the UV irradiation stage however, UV irradiation on the dyed fabric was more effective than on the extract for the color development. Dyed silk fabric showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9% in addition, deodorant ability improved in the fabric dyed with Chaenomelis Fructus extract.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.263-271
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability of silk fabrics with Humulus japonicus (Hwansam) extract which is a kind of weeds that grows wild in the suburbs. In the research, the general extract method was conducted with the extract from fresh herb of root-removed Humulus japonicus while we investigated the optimal dyeing conditions and dyeability depending on the changes of the kind of mordants, methods and temperature. The functional properties such as antibacterial activities, deodorization and UV protection were also reviewed. The ideal output, as a result, was shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 40 minutes of dyeing time while in terms of dye uptake depending on the kind of mordants and methods, it was found that among four mordants of $SnCl_2$, $AlK(SO_4)_2$, $CuSO_4$, and $FeSO_4$ post-mordanting with $FeSO_4$ showed the best result. Color fastness to washing, dry cleaning and rubbing was found strong at grade 4-5 and the grade to light was as good as 3 while to perspiration was good at 4-5 as well. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 99% deodorization rate, 98% UV protection rate and 99.9% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus.