• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.91-98
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• 1993

The silk fabrics were treated with color solution extracted from leaf of Camellia. The depression effect of destruction and yellowing of silk treated with color solution, shift of UV-VIS spectra of color solution, color difference of silk fabrics by dyeing with acid dyes and drycleaning fastness of silk treated with color solution were studied. UV-VIS spectra appeared to hypsochromic shift by irradiation. The decrease of tensile strength and the elongation of the silk treated with color solution showed depressed but those of untreated silk increased by irradiation. The yellowness index of silk treated with color solution showed a little change by irradiation. The color difference after dyeing with several acid dyes on treated and untreated silk showed not remarkable changes. Dsrycleaning fastness of silk treated by color solution was excellent.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.1-10
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• 1995

The optical behavior of coloring matter extracted from onion's coats, the depression effects of destruction, yellowing and W transmittance of silk treated with color solution of onion's coats color difference of silk fabrics dyed with acid dyes and drycleaning fastness of silk treated with color solution has been investigated. The results are as follows : 1) The coloring matter extracted from onion's coats by alkali-acid method appeared properties of aglycon type. 2) &{\lambda}_{max}&of color solution extracted by distilled water was found at 280 and 327nm. 3) The decrease of tensile strength and the elongation of the silk treated with color solution were depressed but those of untreated silk were increased by irradiation of UV light. 4) The yellowness index of silk treated with color solution showed a little change by irradiation. 5) The UV transmittance of silk treated with color solution was decreased as increasing concentration of color solution. 6) The color difference after dyeing with several acid dyes on treated and untreated silk fabrics showed remarkable changes. 7) Drycleaning fastness of silk treated by color solution was excellent.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.41-47
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• 2005

1. 가야금 줄의 내구성을 향상시키기 위하여 가야금 줄에 acrylic adhesive와 poly(vinyl alcohol)을 병용 처리한 결과 강려과 신도는 차이가 없었으나 하중 70%에서 절단할때까지의 반복회수는 화학가공처리 현이 무 처리한 현보다 48% 향상되었으므로 현의 내구성을 크게 향상시킬 수 있었으나 흡습율이 무처리 현보다 높았다. 2. 현의 내구성을 증대시키고 음량을 풍부하게 할 목적으로 생사와 polyester사의 혼합비율을 달리하면서 생사/폴리에스텔 복합현을 제조하고 물성을 조사한 결과 polyester사의 비율이 많아질수록 강력이 감소하였고 신도는 증가하여 가야금 줄로서 적당하지 않았으나 mono filament 사로서 강력이 우수한 polyester사를 사용하여 복합현을 만든 SSP 복합현의 경우 생사로 만든 현보다 강력이 우수하였다. 3. 새로운 현의 소재를 개발하기 위하여 생사(가잠사)와 작잠사와의 복합현을 제조하고 그 물성을 조사한 결과 가잠사/작잠사 복합현의 강력은 작잠사와 비율이 많아질수록 저하되었다.

• Animal cells and systems
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.145-152
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• 1998

The spinning apparatus and production of secretory silk from silk gland of the black widow spider, Latrodectus mactans were studied with scanning and transmission electron microscopes. The silk glands were located in seven groups on the spinnerets including each pair of major and minor ampullate, 3 pairs of tubuliform, 1 pair of flagelliform, 2 pairs of aggregate, about 50 pairs of pyriform and over 250 pairs of aciniform glands, respect- ively. Each group of silk gland feeds silk into one of the three spinneret pairs. Secretory silk is synthesized from rough endoplasmic reticulum (rER) of glandular epithelial cells. The secretory silk is transported from toe rER into the secretory vacuoles which are grown up by fusion with the surrounding small vesicles including the secretory silk. The secretory vacuoles, which show a gradual increase in electron density with the process of maturity, are formed without involvement of the Golgi complex, suggesting that they do not play an important role in the processing of the secretory silk. The secretory silk products are released by the mechanism of apocrine secretion, losing part of their cytoplasm. Moreover, another type of silk precursor, possibly protein, appears as granular material, and is also discharged to the luminal cavity.

• 동아시아식생활학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.91-99
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• 2005

The effect of medicinal herb powder addition on the physicochemical characteristics of silk-tofu was investigated. Moisture content of silk-tofu decreased during the storage. The pH value of silk-tofu decreased a little until 2 days' storage, and then increased rapidly. The chromaticity of L value decreased for all silk-tofu during the storage. The a value increased a little at initial storage, and then tended to decrease, while b values increased significantly during storage. The contents of free amino acid were 4 times higher in silk-tofu than those in market tofu. Hardness, gumminess and chewiness of all silk-tofu increased rapidly during storage. Cohesiveness values decreased a little at initial storage, and then kept to increase upon storage. Generally, the total plate counts of bacteria of all silk-tofu increased during storage, and those of silk tofu with added medicinal herb powder were shown to be significantly lower than those in control. In sensory evaluation, color, structure, softness and overall acceptability of silk tofu with added dangui powder(dang-T) and control(con-T) were about to be high, and nutty taste and flavor of control silk-tofu was the highest in score.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.132-137
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• 2016

Although silk textile shows excellent performance when used in clothing over a long period, its limited elongation and elasticity have restricted its extension to other textile and non-textile applications. In the present study, silk textile was produced using silk/polyurethane core-spun yarn and degummed to enhance its elongation and elasticity. The effects of degumming on the structure and mechanical properties of the silk textile were examined. Scanning electron microscopy observation revealed that the silk filaments became finer and more flexible with degumming, resulting in increased tangling of weft yarns and a highly shrunk textile structure in the weft direction. Although the strength of the degummed silk textile was decreased, its elongation greatly increased by 383% (a 16-fold increase) because of the degumming treatment. In particular, the elasticity of the silk textile was greatly improved. The silk textile exhibited ~30% reduction in the elongation after the second extension; however, the elongation almost did not change after 18 additional extension-recovery tests.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.347-357
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• 2002

In 1536, two Piedmontese merchants set up workshops in Lyons, and Henri IV encourged further development later in the 16th century. The development of Lyons as a centre of the silk weaving industry was helped by the perfection of drawloom weaving technique there in 1605 by Claude Dangon. In the 17th century, the French silk industry could finally compete with the dominance of the Italian silk trade. The French silk industry was promoted in the mid-17th century under Louis XIV's minister Colbert. In 1667, he published an ordinance creating La Grande Fabrique, a corporation for craftsmen within the silk industry, and Lyons became the undisputed French silk capital. Under Louis X IV, France was becoming the dominant force in Europe in matters of fashion and style. The major innovation of weaving was the Jacquard head attachment, which provided a mechanical means of raising warp threads by a series of punched cards. The are nouveau style did not have much impact on French silk design at the end of the century. Silk manufacturers began to collaborate with haute-couture designers such as the House of Worth. This collaboration with the burgeoning Paris haute-couture industry continued into the 20th century and safeguarded the future production of silk textiles in France.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권5호
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• pp.753-767
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• 2019

Dyeing behavior of indigo leaf powder was examined in regards to the effect of the amount of pigments on color and dye adsorption for silk dyed by reduction and nonreduction dyeing. The amount of indigotin and indirubin pigments adsorbed in dyed silk was examined by HPLC-DAD analysis. The color of dyed silk showed 7.7BG - 2.7B hue when silk was dyed at $50^{\circ}C$, and 3.5G - 4.9BG when dyed at $70^{\circ}C$. Blue ($b^*$) and green ($a^*$) color decreased as the pH of dyebath increased. When silk was dyed using nonreduction, R (red) and RP (red purple) hue and R hue was more apparent in samples dyed at $90^{\circ}C$. In reduction dyeing, amount of indigotin detected from silk exceeded the amount that was initially contained in the input dye. The amount of indirubin was lower than indirubin that was initially in the powder. In nonreduction dyeing, silk showed a higher amount of indirubin adsorption compared to silk dyed by reduction. The amount of indigotin adsorbed in silk was lower than the amount initially contained in the input dye. The amount of indigotin and indirubin adsorption was primarily dependent upon the dyeing method-reduction or nonreduction along with dyeing temperature and the pH of dyebath.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.73-90
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• 2018

The Silk Road tied the globe together for the first time by producing an early globalization phenomenon. Some consider that the ancient Silk Road disintegrated around the $18^{th}$ century CE due to the fall of the Muslim empires and the kingdoms between Asia and Europe. However, the maritime trade among East Asia and the Spanish dominion on the American continent reactivated the ancient Silk Road on some levels, and maintained trade dynamics until the $19^{th}$ century. This was possible because of Mexican silver and trade spots. Notwithstanding its historical background, Mexico seems so far away from the new Silk Road, or the Belt and Road Initiative in the $21^{st}$ century. Thus, this paper analyzes Mexico's historic and current role concerning the Silk Road. First, I conceptualize and compare the ancient Silk Road and Belt and Road Initiative through the lens of complex interdependence theory. I propose that, unlike the ancient Silk Road, the Belt and Road Initiative is a case of an induced complex interdependence. Second, I study the Manila Galleons' dynamics in order to trace the ancient ties with the Silk Road. I emphasize Mexican silver's contribution to East Asian economies and the importance of Mexico's role in the East Asia-Spanish trade. Consequently, I analyze Mexico's position in the Belt and Road Initiative. Finally, I present some concluding remarks about Mexico's role in the Silk Road.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.142-153
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• 1995

특이한 분자 구조를 가진 생체 고분자로서 유용한 견 피브로인은 다양하게 성형 가공할 수 있으며 이를 위해서는 견 피브로인 수용액을 필요로 한다. 견 피브로인의 용해 조건이 형성되는 견 피브로인의 분말과 필름에 미치는 영향을 알아보기 위하여 종성염과 산가수분해법으로 견 피브로인을 용해시킨 수용액으로부터 견 피브로인 분말과 필름을 제조하고 이들의 특성을 아미노산 조정 분석, SEM, DSC, IR, X-ray Diffraction 등의 방법을 통하여 조사 분석한 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 염화칼슘법과 염산법에 의해 피브로이을 용해시켰을 때 처리에 따라 아미노산 조성은 달랐으며 분자량도 차이가 있었다. 2. 분말의 구조 분석 결과, 염화칼슘법에 의한 처리에서 열분해 온도는 대조에 비해 낮게 나타났고 무정형의 분자 구조를 띄고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 염산 처리에 의한 잔유물은 대조보다 높은 온도에서 $\beta$구조에 의한 분해 거동을 보였으며 높은 결정화도를 나타냈다. 한편 염산에 용해된 부분은 열분해 분석 결과 a-helix에 의한 흡열 peak을 나타냈다. 3. 염화칼슘법에 의해 형성된 견 피브로인 필름은 모정형에 가까운 결정 구조를 가지고 있지만 불용화 처리에 의해 결정성이 향상됨에 따라 피브로인 필름의 흡습율은 감소하였으며, 열분해 온도가 증가했다.