• Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.337-340
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• 2002

Monitoring of wave height is important primarily to reduce storm risks at sea and along the coast. Wave heights in recent years have increased 50% for the last 40 years, thus requiring intensive monitoring. Satellite altimetry offers a powerful tool for regular and extensive monitoring of the wave height. We extracted significant wave height (SWH) using several altimeter missions from 1987-1995 over the Northwest Pacific and compared with ECMWF reanalysis (ERA) products. For large wave heights > 2.5 m, the ERA wave heights are smaller than the altimetric ones, while for small wave heights the ERA wave heights are larger. Comparison in SWH between altimetric derivations and ERA model products shows the discrepancy of 0.46-0.21$\times$SWH(m).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.120-125
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• 2010

A Monte-Carlo simulation method is proposed which can take uncertainties of scale and location parameters of Gumbel distribution into account straightforwardly in evaluating significant design wave heights with respect to return periods. The uncertainties of design wave heights may directly depend on the amounts of uncertainties of scale parameter and those distributions may be followed by Gumbel distribution. In case of that the expected values of maximum significant wave height during lifetime of structures are considered to be the design wave heights, more uncertainties are happened than in those evaluated according to return periods with encounter probability concepts. In addition, reliability analyses on the armor units are carried out to investigate into the effects of the uncertainties of design wave heights on the probability of failure. The failure probabilities of armor units to 5% damage level for 50 return periods are evaluated and compared according to the methods of taking uncertainties of design wave heights into account. It is found that the probabilities of failure may be distributed into wide ranges of bounds when the uncertainties of design wave heights are assumed to be same as those of annual maximum significant wave heights.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.31-36
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• 2003

We extracted significant wave height (SWH) using several altimeter missions from 1987-1995 over the Northwest Pacific ocean and compared with ECMWF (European Center for Medium- Range Forecast) reanalysis (ERA) products. For large wave heights the ERA wave heights are smaller than the altimetric ones, while for small wave heights the ERA wave heights are larger Comparison in SWH between altimetric derivations and ERA model products shows the discrepancy of 0.46-0.21$\times$SWH (m). Methods for propagating this differences into ERA wind error are presented.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.296-306
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• 2020

It has been reported that the wave heights measured by Wave and Tide gauges (WTG) have been underestimated, and thus it is important to improve its measuring accuracy for enhancing estimation of harbor tranquility. In this study, the significant wave heights from WTG were calibrated using measured data from AWAC and Waverider buoys moored at the same four locations with the WTG. It was observed that the product of significant wave height and peak wave period, HT, was not underestimated but linearly proportional between the measurements by two instruments. This linearity was applied to develop 3^rd order polynomial functions that best represented the relationship between HT and significant wave heights measured by WTG. These functions were then applied to calibrate the WTG significant wave heights that were lower than 0.7 m, the critical value established for the low waves in this study. The results showed that the linearity between the AWAC (or Waverider buoy) and calibrated wave heights were improved, and the magnitude of underestimated WTG wave heights were increased to be more realistic. The results of this study are expected to be effectively applied for other data sets obtained by WTG only, to increase the observation accuracy of WTG and to improve the estimation of harbor tranquility.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.291-302
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• 2015

The seasonal variations of sea surface winds and significant wave heights were investigated using the data observed from the marine meteorological buoys (nine stations) and Automatic Weather Stations (AWSs) in lighthouse (nine stations) around the Korean Peninsula during 2010~2012. In summer, the prevailing sea surface winds over the East/West Sea and the South Sea were northerly/southerly and easterly/westerly winds due to both of southeast monsoon and the shape of Korean Peninsula. On the other hand, the strong northerly winds has been observed at most stations near Korean marginal seas under northwest monsoon in winter. However, the sea surface winds at some stations (e.g. Galmaeyeo, Haesuseo in the West Sea) have different characteristics due to topographic effects such as island or coastal line. The significant wave heights are the highest in winter and the lowest in summer at most stations. In case of some lighthouse AWSs surrounded by islands (e.g. Haesuseo, Seosudo) or close to coast (e.g. Gangan, Jigwido), very low significant wave heights (below 0.5 m) with low correlations between sea surface wind speeds and significant wave heights were observed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.274-279
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• 2015

Wave data acquired over eleven years near Sokcho Harbor located in the central area of the east coast were analyzed using spectral method and wave-by-wave analysis method and its major wave characteristics were examined. Significant wave heights were found to be high in winter and low in summer, and peak periods were also found to be long in winter and short in summer. The maximum significant wave height observed was 8.95 m caused by the East Sea twister. The distributional pattern of the significant wave heights and peak periods were both fitted better by Kernel distribution function than by Generalized Gamma distribution function and Generalized Extreme Value distribution function. The wave data were compiled to subdivide the wave height into intervals for each month, and the cumulative occurrence rates of wave heights were calculated to be utilized for the design and construction works in nearby construction works.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.561-568
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• 2020

Wave measurements using X-band radar have many advantages compared to other wave gauges including wave-rider buoy, P-u-v gauge and Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP), etc.. For example, radar system has no risk of loss/damage in bad weather conditions, low maintenance cost, and provides spatial distribution of waves from deep to shallow water. This paper presents new methods for estimating significant wave heights of X-band marine radar images using Artificial Neural Network (ANN). We compared the time series of estimated significant wave heights (Hs) using various estimation methods, such as signal-to-noise ratio (${\sqrt{SNR}}$), both and ${\sqrt{SNR}}$ the peak period (TP), and ANN with 3 parameters (${\sqrt{SNR}}$, TP, and Rval > k). The estimated significant wave heights of the X-band images were compared with wave measurement using ADCP(AWC: Acoustic Wave and Current Profiler) at Hujeong Beach, Uljin, Korea. Estimation of Hs using ANN with 3 parameters (${\sqrt{SNR}}$, TP, and Rval > k) yields best result.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.5 s.54
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• pp.25-31
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• 2003

Numerical experiments have been conducted using the nonlinear combined refraction-diffraction model, in order to analyze the generation characteristics of stem wave, which is formed by the interaction between vertical structure and the oblique incident waves. The results of stem wave are discussed through the stem wave height distribution along/normal vertical structure, under the wide range of incident wave conditions-wave heights, periods, depths, and angles. Under the same wave height and period, the larger the incident wave angle, the higher the stem wave heights. According to the results of wave height distribution, in front of vertical structure, the maximum of stern wave heights occurs in the location bordering the vertical wall. Furthermore, the most significant result is that stem waves occur under the incident angles between $0^{\circ}\;and\;30^{\circ}$, and the stem wave height ratio has the maximum value, which is approximately 1.85 times the incident wave height when the incident wave angle becomes $23^{\circ}$.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.375-382
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• 2016

In the present study, the wave hindcasting has been performed, and then the characteristics of storm waves at Gangnueng port was investigated, in which the high waves are observed. Comparing the numerical results with the wave measurements at Gangneung port, Niigata, and Hamada, there were good agreements between them. In particular, the Pearson correlation coefficients of significant wave heights and peak periods at Gangneung port were 0.92 and 0.72, respectively. Then the extreme wave analysis on the significant wave heights was carried out for the estimation of the frequency of storm waves. In this analysis, the storm waves over the threshold were fitted to GPD(Generalized Pareto Distribution). According to this analysis, the return period of the storm wave on February, 24, 2008, one of the large storm waves at Gangneung port, was 8.2 months. Among the computed significant wave heights larger than one-year wave, 58.3% of them were resulted from the storm, while the others were from the typhoon. Additionally, the regression analysis on the waves larger than one-month wave has been conducted, and then the relationship between the computed significant wave heights and the significant wave period, $T_{1/3}=7H_s^{0.25}$ was obtained.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.137-145
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• 2004

Long-term wave distribution at Jeju sea is investigated by a numerical simulation based on the thirdgeneration wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). The Jeju sea which retains relatively high wave energy density among Korean coastal regions is considered to be a suitable site for wave power generation and the efficiency of wave power generation is closely related to local wave characteristics. The monthly mean of a large-scale long-term wave data from 1979 to 2002, which is provided by Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute. is used as the boundary condition of SWAN model simulation with 1km grid. An analysis of wave distribution concentrates on the seasonal variation and spatial distribution of significant wave heights, mean wave directions and mean wave periods. Significant wave heights are higher in winter and summer and the west sea of Jeju appears relatively higher than east's. The highest significant wave height occurs at the northeast sea in winter and the second highest significant wave height appears at the southeast sea in summer, while the significant wave heights in spring and autumn are relatively low but homogeneous. The distribution of wave directions reveals that except the rear region influenced by wave refraction, the northwest wave direction is dominant in summer and the southeast in winter. Wave periods are longer in summer and winter and the west sea of Jeju appears relatively longer than east's. The longest wave period occurs at the west sea in winter, and in summer it appears relatively homogeneous with a little longer period at the south sea.