• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.4 no.4
• /
• pp.225-230
• /
• 1992

An attempt is made to assemble and synthesize recent publications which may contribute to our capability for understanding the transformation of wave spectra in finite-depth water or in the presence of current. This review is limited essentially to the effects of shoaling and current on one-dimensional transformation of wave spectra and examining the adequacy of the approximation of irregular waves by a monochromatic wave in modeling of wave transformation in coastal areas.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.281-290
• /
• 1998

The propagation of water waves over irregular bottom bathymetry and around islands involves many process-shoaling, refraction, energy dissipation and diffraction. Numerical model in this study is developed with the mild slope equation to investigate wave transformation in water of varying depth and combined waves and a current. The method used is splitting method and minimax approximation. The numerical method used in this study is Crank-Nicolson scheme in the FDM. This model is applied to Vincent shoal and compared with laboratory experimental data. The results agreed well with laboratory data. Current effect is considered in this study. This model can be used for the estimation of rip current in the slowly varying topography.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.35 no.2
• /
• pp.113-120
• /
• 2021

In order to perform a precise wave tank experiment, it is necessary to maintain the incident wave generated by the wavemaker in a steady state and to effectively remove the reflected waves. In this paper, a combined sloping-wall-type punching plate wave absorber was proposed to attenuate reflected waves effectively in a two-dimensional mini wave tank. Using the four-point reflection separation method, the reflected waves were measured to determine the reflection coefficients. Experiments were conducted under various punching plate porosities, sloping plate angles, and incident wave conditions to evaluate the performance of the combined punching plate wave absorber. The most effective wave absorbing performance was achieved when the porosity was 10% and the inclination angle of the punching plate was 18.6° under the present condition. It was also found that the installation of the sloping plate could improve the wave attenuation performance by generating the shoaling effect of the incident wave.

• Ocean and Polar Research
• /
• v.30 no.4
• /
• pp.453-466
• /
• 2008

In order to examine the generation mechanism of long ocean waves along the west coast of Korea and to understand the amplification process of the long ocean waves, sea level, atmospheric pressure and wind data observed every minute from 2007 March 29 to 2007 April 1 were analyzed and onedimensional numerical ocean model experiments were performed. An atmospheric pressure jump propagated southeastward from Backryungdo to Yeonggwang along the west coast of Korea with speed of $13{\sim}27\;m/s$ between 2007 March 30 23:00 and 2007 April 1 1:30. Average magnitude of pressure jump was 4.2 hPa. As a moving atmospheric jump propagated from north to south along the coast, long ocean waves were generated and the sea level abnormally rose or fell at Anheung, Kunsan, Wido and Yeonggwang. Average amplitude of sea level rise (or fall) was about 113.6 cm. In a one-dimensional numerical ocean model, nonlinear shallow water equations were numerically integrated and a moving atmospheric pressure jump with traveling speed of 24 m/s was used as an external force. While the atmospheric pressure jump travels over 60 m depth ocean, a long ocean wave is generated. Because the propagation speed of the atmospheric jump is almost equal to that of the long ocean wave, Proudman resonance occurs and the long ocean wave amplifies. As the atmospheric pressure jump moves into the coastal area shallower than 60 m, the speed of the long ocean wave decreases and Proudman resonance effect decreases. However, the amplitude of the long ocean wave increases and wave length becomes shorter because of shoaling effect. When the long ocean wave hits the land boundary, amplitude of the long ocean wave drastically amplifies due to reflection. Data analysis and numerical experiments suggest that the southeastward propagation of an atmospheric pressure jump over the shallow ocean, which is a necessary condition for Proudaman resonance, generated the long ocean waves along the west coast of Korea on 2007 March 31 and the ocean waves amplified due to shoaling effect in the coastal area and reflection at the shore.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.65-69
• /
• 2013

In situ measurement of a primary production in East Sea, a marginal sea with a fair accessibility, is nonetheless an arduous task because of dynamic variability. In this study, we estimated the mean value of background (gross) primary production over the warm region of the East Sea based on a biogeochemical hypothesis. We propose an immiscible-shoaling hypothesis for the estimation of primary production, which assumes that primary production in the warm region occurred only by the nutrient supply through the Korea Strait. Annual primary production thus estimated is $209\;gC\;m^{-2}\;y^{-1}$, which is comparable to the satellite-based estimates of net primary production in the region. However, since this hypothesis assumes that primary production is based on only the new nutrients supplied to the system, primary production would increase by 40% if we release the assumption, and assume f = 0.6. This suggests that nutrient influx through the Korea Strait alone is more than enough to support primary production previously reported. Primary production may increase as much as two times if we considered other external perturbations excluded intentionally to estimate the background level of primary production, such as coastal upwelling, submerged ground water discharge, aeolian input, ocean dumping, and mixing by typhoons as well as the contribution of cyanobacteria that has not been quantified in the region. This implies the primary production in the warm region of the East Sea would be comparable to that of the Peru upwelling region with f = 0.6.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
• /
• v.28 no.1
• /
• pp.97-104
• /
• 2004

Introduction of wave model, take into account the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, wave-wave interaction, and wave-current interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process, we applied the spectral wave model to the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on. We also compared the simulation results with the calculatea from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and safer use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.19 no.1
• /
• pp.81-96
• /
• 2007

Nonlinear shoaling characteristics over surf zone are numerically investigated based on spatially averaged NavierStokes equation. We also test the validity of gradient model for turbulent stresses due to wave breaking using the data acquainted during SUPERTANK LABORATORY DATA COLLECTION PROJECT(Krauss et al., 1992). It turns out that the characteristics length scale of breaking induced current is not negligible, which firmly stands against ever popular gradient model, ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ model, but favors Large Eddy Simulation with finer grid. Based on these observations, we model the residual stress of spatially averaged NavierStokes equation after Lagrangian Dynamic Smagorinsky(Meneveau et al., 1996). We numerically integrate newly proposed wave equations using SPH with Gaussian kernel function. Severely deformed water surface profile, free falling water particle, queuing splash after landing of water particle on the free surface and wave finger due to structured vortex on rear side of wave crest(Narayanaswamy and Dalrymple, 2002) are successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation of wave propagation over uniform slope beach, which so far have been regarded very difficult features to mimic in the computational fluid mechanics.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.32 no.1
• /
• pp.55-68
• /
• 2020

In order to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of a boundary layer streaming over the beach cusps appeared in swells prevailing mild seas, we numerically simulated the shoaling process of Edge waves over the beach cusp. Synchronous Edge waves known to sustain the beach cusps could successfully be duplicated by generating two obliquely colliding Edge waves in front of beach cusps. The amplitude A_B and length L_B of Beach Cusp were elected to be 1.25 m and 18 m, respectively based on the measured data along the Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that boundary layer streaming was formed at every phase of shoaling process without exception, and the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to occur at the crest of sand bar. In RUN 1 where the shortest waves were deployed, the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to be around 0.32 m/s, which far exceeds the amplitude of free stream by two times. It is also noted that the maximum boundary layer streaming mentioned above greatly differs from the analytical solution by Longuet-Higgins (1957) based on wave Reynolds stress. In doing so, we also identify the recovery procedure of natural beaches in swells prevailing mild seas, which can be summarized such as: as the infra-gravity waves formed in swells by the resonance wave-wave interaction arrives near the breaking line, the sediments ascending near the free surface by the Phase II waves orbital motion were carried toward the pinnacle of foreshore by the shoreward flow commenced at the steep front of breaking waves, and were deposited near the pinnacle of foreshore due to the infiltration.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.28 no.5B
• /
• pp.559-573
• /
• 2008

In this study, we newly proposed 3-D nonlinear wave driver utilizing the Navier-Stokes Eq. the numerical integration of which is carried out using SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics), an internal wave generation with the source function of Gaussian distribution and an energy absorbing layer. For the verification of new 3-D nonlinear wave driver, we numerically simulate the sloshing problem within a parabolic water basin triggered by a Gaussian hump and uniformly inclined water surface by Thacker (1981). It turns out that the qualitative behavior of sloshing caused by relaxing the external force which makes a free surface convex or uniformly inclined is successfully simulated even though phase error is visible and an inundation height shrinks as numerical simulation more proceeds. For the more severe test, we also simulate the nonlinear shoaling and refraction over uniform beach of wedge shape. It is shown that numerically simulated waves are less refracted than the linear counterpart by Hamiltonian ray theory due to nonlinearity, energy dissipation at the bottom and side walls, energy loss induced by breaking, and the hydraulic jump occurring when breaking waves encounter a down-rush by the preceding wave.

• Water for future
• /
• v.26 no.2
• /
• pp.39-48
• /
• 1993

Since major reason of disaster in coastal area is wave action, prediction of wave deformation is one of the most important problems to ocean engineers. Wave deformations are due to physical factors such as shoaling effect, reflection, diffraction, refraction, scattering and radiation etc. Recently, numerical models are widely utilized to calculate wave deformation. In this study, the mild slope equation was used in calculatin gwave deformation which considers diffraction and refraction. In order to slove the governing equation, finite element method is introduced. Even though this method has some difficulties, it is proved to predict the wave deformation accurately even in complicated boundary conditions. To verify the validity of the numerical calculation, experiments were carried out in a model harbour of rectangular shape which has mild slope bottom. The results by F.E.M. are compared with those of both Lee's method and the experiment. The results of these three methods show reasonable agreement.