• Title/Summary/Keyword: shallow water wave

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A Study on the Statistical Characteristics and Numerical Hindcasts of Storm Waves in East Sea (동해 폭풍파랑의 통계적 특성과 파랑 후측모의 실험에 관한 연구)

  • Chun, Hwusub;Kang, Tae-Soon;Ahn, Kyungmo;Jeong, Weon Mu;Kim, Tae-Rim;Lee, Dong Hwan
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.26 no.2
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    • pp.81-95
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    • 2014
  • In the present study, the statistical analysis on the storm waves in the East Sea have been carried out, and the several storm waves were reproduced by the modified WAM as a first step for the accurate and prompt forecasting and warning against the swell waves in East Sea. According to the present study, the occurrences of the storm waves from the North were the most probable, while the waves from the Northeast were most frequently observed. It was found that the significant wave heights of storm waves from the North and Northern northeast were larger than those of storm waves from the Northeast. But due to long fetch distance, the significant wave periods of storm waves from the Northesast were longer than those of North and Northern northeast. In addition to the wave analysis, the numerical experiments for the storm waves in East Sea were carried out using the modified WAM, and three periods of storm waves in 2013 were calculated. The numerical results were well agreed with wave measurements. However the numerical simulation results in shallow water region showed lower accuracies compared to deep water, which might be due to lower resolution of wind field and bottom topography caused by large grid size, 5 minute, adopted in the present study. Overall computational efficiency of the modified WAM found to be excellent compared to original WAM. It is because the modified WAM adopted the implicit scheme, thereby the present model performed 10 time faster than original WAM in computation time.

Some Applications of SAR Imagery to the Coastal Waters of Korea (한국 주변 해역에서의 SAR 영상 응용예)

  • 김태림
    • Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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    • v.15 no.1
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    • pp.61-71
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    • 1999
  • Several physical phenomena on the sea surface are analyzed from SAR images of South Sea areas, Korea. Strong wave patterns propagating in southerly direction are seen in ERS-1 SAR image on October 11, 1994, and a wave directional spectrum is calculated from this image using the SAR modulation transfer function. RADARSAT SAR image of August 15, 1996 reveals internal waves in northern coastal waters of Cheju Island. Analysis indicates that the internal waves may have been generated by the tidal currents traveling over the shallow bottom of the stratified water in the summer during the tidal changeovers fro ebb to flood and shows patterns of trains of solitons. RADARSAT SAR image taken 3 days after the oil spill accident near Goeje Isalnd on April 3, 1997 detects distinct oil slicks from the accident area but also shows slicks near the coast caused by wind sheltering of coastal mountains and chemical-biological activities.

Measurements of mid-frequency transmission loss in shallow waters off the East Sea: Comparison with Rayleigh reflection model and high-frequency bottom loss model (동해 천해환경에서 측정된 중주파수 전달손실 측정: Rayleigh 및 HFBL 모델과의 비교)

  • Lee, Dae Hyeok;Oh, Raegeun;Choi, Jee Woong;Kim, Seongil;Kwon, Hyuckjong
    • The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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    • v.40 no.4
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    • pp.297-303
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    • 2021
  • When sound waves propagate over long distances in shallow water, measured transmission loss is greater than predicted one using underwater acoustic model with the Rayleigh reflection model due to inhomogeneity of the bottom. Accordingly, the US Navy predicts sound wave propagation by applying the empirical formula-based High Frequency Bottom Loss (HFBL) model. In this study, the measurement and analysis of transmission loss was conducted using mid-frequency (2.3 kHz, 3 kHz) in the shallow water of the East Sea in summer. BELLHOP eigenray tracing output shows that only sound waves with lower grazing angle than the critical angle propagate long distances for several kilometers or more, and the difference between the predicted transmission loss based on the Rayleigh reflection model and the measured transmission loss tend to increase along the propagation range. By comparing the Rayleigh reflection model and the HFBL model at the high grazing angle region, the bottom province, the input value of the HFBL model, is estimated and BELLHOP transmission loss with HFBL model is compared to measured transmission loss. As a result, it agrees well with the measurements of transmission loss.

Effects on the Jeju Island of Tsunamis Caused by Triple Interlocked Tokai, Tonankai, Nankai Earthquakes in Pacific Coast of Japan (일본 태평양 연안의 Tokai, Tonankai 및 Nankai의 3연동지진에 의한 지진해일이 제주도 연안에 미치는 영향)

  • Lee, Kwang-Ho;Kim, Min-Ji;Kawasaki, Koji;Cho, Sung;Kim, Do-Sam
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.24 no.4
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    • pp.295-304
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    • 2012
  • This study proposed a two-dimensional horizontal numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water wave equations to simulate tsunami propagation and coastal inundation. We numerically investigated the possible impacts of tsunami caused by the triple interlocked Tokai, Tonankai and Nankai Earthquakes on the Jeju coastal areas, using the proposed model. The simultaneous Tokai, Tonankai and Nankai Earthquakes were created a virtual tsunami model of an M9.0 earthquake. In numerical analysis, a grid nesting method for the local grid refinement in shallow coastal regions was employed to sufficiently reproduce the shoaling effects. The numerical model was carefully validated through comparisons with the data collected during the tsunami events by 2011 East Japan Earthquake and 1983 central East Sea Earthquake (Nihonkai Chubu Earthquake). Tsunami propagation triggered by the combined Tokai, Tonanakai and Nankai, Earthquakes was simulated for 10 hours to sufficiently consider the effects of tsunami in the coastal areas of Jeju Island. The numerical results revealed that water level fluctuation in tsunami propagation is greatly influenced by water-depth change, refraction, diffraction and reflection. In addition, the maximum tsunami height numerically estimated in the coastal areas of Jeju Island was about 1.6 m at Sagye port.

Suppression of Swell Effect in 3.5KHz Subbottom Profiler Data (3.5KHz 천부지층탐사자료의 너울영향제거)

  • 이호영;구남형;박근필;김정기;김원식;강동효
    • The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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    • v.7 no.3
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    • pp.95-99
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    • 2002
  • 3.5KHz subbottom profiling systems are useful for delineating of shallow (up to 10~100m below the sea bottom) geological structure. These systems are generally used to image geological structures with less than 1m of vertical resolution. However swell in the sea is quite often higher than 1m, causing degradation in the quality of the 3.5KHz subbottom profiles. In this paper, we show the quality of digitally recorded data can be enhanced by the suppression of swell effect. Prior to suppression of swell effect, sea bottom detection procedure was applied using the characteristics that the amplitude of sea bottom reflection is high. To suppress the swell effect, we applied moving average method and high-cut filtering method using the extracted water depth of adjacent traces. Acceptable results were obtained from both methods. In the case of bad quality data or shallow data interfered with direct wave, the suppression of swell effect is difficult due to incorrect sea bottom detection.

Numerical Simulation on Longshore Current Produced by Random Sea Waves (불규칙파에 의한 연안류의 수치계산)

  • 권정곤
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.54-64
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    • 1991
  • To accurately estimate the rate of sediment transport in shallow water bodies, it is necessary to investigate the irregular waves transformation characteristics and nearshore currents produced by random sea waves. Most of studies on numerical models for nearshore currents are based on the theory of monocromatic waves and thus, very few nearshore models take into account the effect of irregularities in the hight, period and directional spreading of incident waves. The numerical simulation model for nearshore currents used in this paper considers the effect of irregularities of incident waves, based on Individual Wave Analysis. The computational results are compared and shown in a reasionable agreement with the experimental data.

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Analysis of Tidal Flow Using the Frequency Domain Finite Element Method (I) (유한요소법을 이용한 해수유동 해석 (I))

  • 권순국;고덕구;조국광;김준현
    • Magazine of the Korean Society of Agricultural Engineers
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    • v.33 no.4
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    • pp.73-83
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    • 1991
  • A numerical simulation of a 2-dimensional tidal flow in a shallow sea was performed using the frequency domain finite element method. In this study, to overcome the inherent problems of a time domain model which requires high eddy viscosity and small time steps to insure numerical stability, the harmonic function incorporated with the linearized function of governing equations was applied. Calculations were carried out using the developed tidal model(TIDE) in a rectangular channel of lOm(depth) X 4km (width) X 25km(length) under the condition of tidal waves entering the channel closed at one end for both with and without bottom friction damping. The predicted velocities and water levels at different points of the channel were in close agreement with less than 1 % error between the numerical and analytical solutions. The results showed that the characteristics of the tidal flow were greatly affected by the magnitude of tidal elevation forcing, and not by on surface friction, wind, or the linear bottom friction when the value was less than 0.01. For the optimum size of grid to obtain a consistent solution, the ratio between the length of the maximum grid and the tidal wave length should be less than 0.0018. It was concluded that the finite element tidal model(TIDE) developed in this study could handle the numerical simulation of tidal flows for more complex geometrical conditions.

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Mapping of the lost riprap in shallow marine sediments using SBP (SBP를 이용한 해저 천부에 유실된 사석의 조사)

  • Shin, Sung-Ryul;Kim, Chan-Su;Yeo, Eun-Min;Kim, Young-Jun;Ha, Hee-Sang
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Marine Engineers Conference
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    • 2005.11a
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    • pp.220-221
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    • 2005
  • Sub-bottom profiler(SBP) has been used extensively for the mapping of basement in the foundation design of offshore structure, for pre- and post-dredging operations within harbors and channels, for selection of pipeline routes, sitting of drilling platforms, and in the exploration for an aggregates such as sands and gravels. During the construction of Siwha embankment for irrigation water and the expansion of arable land, the breaking of an embankment unfortunately occurred so that a lot of riprap was swept away and widely dispersed by the tide and strong current. The feasibility study for the construction of the tidal-powered electric plant in Siwha embankment was performed quite recently. Therefore we made use of SBP survey to investigate the distribution of the lost riprap. We could successfully map out the distribution of the lost riprap from the reflection amplitude characteristics of the sediments in SBP data set. We demonstrated the variation of reflection amplitude versus the sediments with and/or without riprap by means of the numerical modeling of acoustic wave equation using finite difference method. Also we examined an amplitude anomaly of the ripraped area through the physical modeling using ultrasonic.

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Optimal Control Design for Automatic Ship Berthing by Using Bow and Stern Thrusters

  • Bui, Van Phuoc;Jeong, Jeong-Soon;Kim, Young-Bok;Kim, Dong-Wook
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.24 no.2
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    • pp.10-17
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    • 2010
  • Conventionally, because it is difficult to control a ship in shallow water and because attempting to do so creates unwanted environmental effects, maneuvering ships in the harbor area for berthing is usually done with the assistance of tugboats. In this paper, we propose a new method for berthing ships automatically by using bow and stern thrusters. Specifically, a steering motion model of a ship is considered, and parameters in the equation are evaluated by the system identification technique. An optimal controller based on observations was designed from the linearization of the non-linear ship motion in the horizontal plane. It is used to reduce the uncertainty about the ship's dynamics and reduce measurement requirements. The performance of the controller was also analyzed for its robustness relative to avoiding disturbing the environment due to winds, currents, and wave-drift forces. Experiments were conducted to estimate the potential for identifying result and the design of the controller. Specifically, in this paper, the system modeling and tracking control approach are discussed based on a two-degree-of-freedom (2DOF) servo-system design.

Open Boundary Treatment of Nonlinear Waves in the Shallow Water Region by Boundary Element Method (경계요소법에 의한 파동장에 있어서 비선형파의 가상경계처리)

  • ;Kiyoshi Takikawa
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.3 no.3
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    • pp.176-183
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    • 1991
  • In this paper. boundary element method is applied to the analysis of nonlinear free surface wave. A particular concern is given to the treatment of the open boundaries at the in-flow boundary and out-flow boundary, which uses the mass-flux and energy-flux considering the continuity of fluid. By assuming the fluid to be inviscid and incompressible and the flow to be irrotational. the problem is formulated mathematically as a two-dimentional nonlinear problem in terms of a velocity potential. The equation(Laplace equation) and the boundary conditions are transformed into two boundary integral equations. Due to the nonlinearity of the problem. the incremental method is used for the numerical analysis. Numerical results obtained by the present boundary element method are compared with those obtained by the finite element method and also with experimental values.

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