• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1399-1408
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• 2011

This study analyzes the current educational curricula in the field of clothing construction to provide some fundamental information for developing more appropriate educational courses and to activate the fashion business. A total of 82 different departments related to fashion and apparel were selected from four-year domestic universities and the curricula recently posted on their internet websites were analyzed by descriptive statistics. More than half (53.7%) of the 82 departments were offering classes in the clothing construction field for 3 credits and 4 class hours. College affiliation of the departments that offered curricula in the clothing construction field was classified into 5 categories: the arts (34), human ecology (22), natural sciences (14), humanities/culture (9), and others (3). Human ecology category showed the highest results in the average class hours (3.9), the number of classes in the clothing construction field (7.6), and the percentage of the classes in the clothing construction field out of all major classes offered by the clothing department (19.9%). All 82 departments were classified into 3 categories of: fashion design (32), clothing (28), and fashion business (22). The clothing category showed the highest results in the average credits (2.8), class hours (3.8), the number of classes offered by the clothing construction field (7.6), and the percentage of the classes that offer clothing construction education out of all major classes offered by the clothing department (19.9%). The educational contents of clothing construction area were classified into 8 different categories of: basic theory and sewing, clothing construction, flat pattern, draping, tailoring and advanced clothing construction, pattern CAD, sewing science and apparel manufacturing process, and clothing construction for special needs. Among these categories, the draping category constituted 21.7% as the largest part. In addition, the distribution of classes offered by 4 academic years were analyzed into 8 different categories.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.591-596
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• 2006

In order to analyze the tailorbility of different fabrics for men's suit, FAST system has been used for measuring the distribution of mechanical properties in this study. As results, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics showed the minimum degree in relaxation shrinkage, formability, and shear rigidity than any other fabrics, and also showed more than 6% as maximum level of extensibility. Thus, cashmere mixed woolen fabrics requires careful tailoring in lay-out, marking, and cutting. It is necessary to establish new tailoring criteria for automatic sewing with cashmere mixed woolen fabrics than any other fabrics, because they show more failure rate of tailorbility. There have been noticeably more variation of shrinkage and extension for woolen fabrics with cashmere mixed than 100% woolen fabrics by evaluating the formability of the suits when these are completed to suits through cutting and tailoring from fabrics. Especially nylon mixed woolen fabrics showed shrinkage overall, but polyester mixed woolen fabrics showed extension at waist area. Thus, it is necessary to adjust the appropriate overfeed rate considering the amount of shrinkage and extension while tailoring.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.13
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• pp.73-79
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• 1989

During nineteenth century, there broke out a great revolution in the history of girl's costume and with new condition toward girls. 1. Girl's costume followed their mother's attitude of the era and it was influenced by mother's costume. 2. Girl's costume was closely related with politics, economy, society culture and thought of the era. 3. Rousseau's Englightment made a revolution on girl's costume and it was direct revolution which affected on the French Revolution and the independence America. 4. Development of textile industry by industrial revolution brought on a change in raw material, quality, and quantity of textile, more gave a variety to raw material and ornament of girl's costume. 5. The invention of Sewing machine made it possible ready made production of girl's costume.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.109-113
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• 2004

The present study attempted to consider the effects of cutting lines in the knee parts of slacks on the clothing pressure and comfort. The study compared and analyzed the pressure imposed to the body in a stooping position and the consequent sensations felt by the wearer according to the slack shapes. The conclusion was drawn as follows: The pressure imposed by the slacks to the body is greater on the two points slightly upper and lower from the knee point than on the knee point itself, regardless of the slack shapes. Clothing pressure was lower in the slacks with 10 cm-wide and 14 cm-wide cutting lines in the knee parts than those with 18 cm-wide cutting lines. Subjective sensations felt in the knee parts were analyzed according to slacks shapes. As a result, it was found that slacks without cutting lines on the knee parts or with sewing lines far from the knee points were more comfortable. In slacks construction, the use of cutting lines in the knee parts can decrease pressure imposed to the knee area or improve the comfort of the slacks. When designing slacks, however, overall appearance should be considered and the weakness of cutting line that makes legs look shorter should also be complemented.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.776-786
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• 2016

This study intends to suggest production process of circular knitted jackets and dimensional change data of finished clothes after washing. the study provides pattern design method of circular knitted jackets by applying dimensional change. By doing so, the purpose of this study is to increase production efficiency through accurate order in consideration of loss amount of the fabrics in production. With the three fabric materials selected, this study investigated dimensional change of circular knitted jackets after sewing and washing by varying the parts to be attached to padding cloth and with or without inner lining. As for the fabric F-C (including the spandex, thicker and weightier than the other two fabrics), front width shrunk by 4.6%, which showed the biggest shrinkage among the jackets made of test fabrics. Then it suggested design methods of circular knitted jacket patterns to which dimensional change is applied according to materials, and analyzed the amount of fabric required for production by comparison of the materials. When using the fabric F-C without inner lining, there is big dimensional change and more than double amount of fabric is required. It is expected that the research results will be a basic data for pattern design and production process of circular knitted clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.36 no.11
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• pp.141-156
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to investigate current QR technology usages and merchandisers' roles and information activities in the Korean apparel industry. Data were collected by interview and questionnaire with merchandisers in apparel companies, manufacturing apparels for both men and women. Statistical analyses were t-test, ANOVA, frequency with SAS program. The results of the study were as follows: 1. The usage of QR technology was generally low. But POS, bar-coding, logistics and small lot order were highly used compared to other technologies. CAD, automated sewing operation, unit product system, logistics, and small lot order were more used in domestic national brand than in import license brand. POS applications were more used in product planning division than in others. 2. Merchandisers played important roles in making major decisions on cost price, sales price, manufacturing request, delivery data, production quantity, produce mix, budget planning, market timing and delivery channels. Products planning was conducted mostly on a monthly basis. Price was determined mainly according to cost price, while the production quantity depended on the last year's sales. Usually sales were analyzed on a daily basis. 3. Merchandisers got more information on fashion them and color trend from foreign information sources than from domestic, while more information on fabrication from domestic sources. For fashion design information they used the equal amount from domestic and foreign sources. Over all degree of utilization in each field of fashion information was fugured rather high.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.144-158
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• 2014

National Competency Standards(NCS) is to systemize the competency that is necessary for performing duties in industrial fields and to utilize synthetically duty, vocational education training, and qualification at the national level. The purpose of this study is to analyze the process of NCS development and verification, which systemizes competency units and competency unit elements through the analysis of duty in pattern field. It is to cultivate competent people to be able to promote the development of pattern industry ultimately through being a complementary to educational circles and industry then to give them practical knowledge that is demanded in the field. Furthermore, it is to be utilized as a fundamental data for reforming the system of duty competency evaluation so as to manage personnel career systematically and to improve their competency. Focus Group Interview(FGI) was adapted as the method of this study, which was proceeded 3 times, and validity of the drawn result is verified through expert questionnaire survey. Research result, which is competency units, is 10 as follows; Fit trend analysis, Analysis of sample garment Specification sheet, Pattern making for sample garment, Pattern making for manufacturing garment, Creation of sewing specification, Instruction of manufacturing technique, Sample garment Inspection for quality control, Grading, Calculation of the required material quantities, Quality control.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.333-345
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• 2023

The rising demand for fashion do-it-yourself (DIY) products that cater to individual preferences and which allow for creative expression has highlighted the need for systematic organization within the clothing society. This study addresses this gap by identifying and discussing clothing DIY packages and proposes a systematic package model comprising essential raw materials, commercial patterns, and production instructions. Four key elements have been emphasized to differentiate and enhance the product. Firstly, highly practical commercial patterns have been developed to facilitate easy transformations - from blouses to dresses. Furthermore, the versatility of these patterns has been optimized so as to allow their utilization as outerwear, increasing their efficiency. Secondly, to accommodate diverse body shapes, the package offers six different sizes, providing users with a range of options tailored to their specific measurements. Thirdly, detailed production instructions are provided, supplemented by a Q&A bulletin board. The instructions are available in a printed format, featuring actual photographs on A4 paper, while video production instructions are accessible via a QR code, ensuring comprehensive guidance. Lastly, the basic package comprises clothing patterns, production instructions, fabrics, and labels, providing a complete toolkit for clothing DIY enthusiasts. This study aims to contribute to the development of the hobby sewing field and to establish a practical resource for the clothing DIY package industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.57-72
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• 2010

The purposes of the research were to find out the clothing construction factors of the mechanical industry working clothes by analyzing the working clothes supplied to 5 subject companies; and to suggest the optimized sewing conditions and the seam strength and elongation experimental data according to the clothing material and seam types implied to the working clothes collected. The fabric types and trimmings used for the mechanical manufacturing working clothes were Polyester/Cotton(65/35%), Polyester/Rayon(65/35%), Cotton(100%); and linings, interlining, various fastenings etc. 2 stitch types, i.e. lock and two-thread chain stitches were applied to the construction of the flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped and bound seams for the seam strength and elongation experiment. The results derived from the experiment were as follows. (1) The seam strength results according to the seam types were high in the order of lap felled>lapped>flat, superimposed and French seams. (2) Considering the features of the seam construction, as the number of fabric layers at the seam line increased the seam strength also increased. (3) Apart from the highest seam strength from the experiment using the net lining with the main fabric, the seam construction consisting of two fabric layers with the interlining showed relatively high seam strength results. (4) The seam elongations according to the stitch types were high in the order of two-thread chain>lock stitches.