• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.15-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designing and making of brassiere with the consideration of the physiological nature of man. Each of 3/4-cup wired upward-support-type Mold Bra of 75 size with basic pad made at three representative domestic companies (A, B and C Company) was selected for analysis of pattern and components. The following is the result of this study. 1. That Company A's bra had the highest cup, relatively narrow width, the widest front-center and the highest front center at front pad. That of Company B had relatively short wing over the base and much difference at the height of cup depending on the presence of wire. That of Company C had low and wide cup, the widest bust span and the front center width, the front center height of front pad, the base length of front pad and the length of wings were observed to be of the figures between those of Company A and B. 2. The Bra of Company A had the biggest front center angle of $6^{\circ}$, while that of Company C had the biggest wing angle of $18^{\circ}$. The Bra of Company B showed the biggest difference of patterns depending on the presence of wire. Those of Company A and C showed very similar shape when wire was inserted. 3. The order of making brassiere is following: making of exterior mold cup${\rightarrow}$ sewing exterior cup and circumference of mold${\rightarrow}$ sewing base and wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to base${\rightarrow}$ sewing cup and main pad${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to upper sides and upper part of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing wire-tape to interior base of cup${\rightarrow}$ inserting of wire inside wire-tape${\rightarrow}$ sewing hook & eye on the back of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing shoulder string.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.179-188
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• 2019

Domestic apparel products labeled as 'Made in Korea' in the Chinese market are recognized as a high quality products due to the influence of the Korean Wave (Intergen Consulting Group, 2007). This study analyzes the patterns and order arrangement types of a fashion brand company commissioned to produce apparel in Seoul, Korea in order to rebuild a network of small sewing factories scattered in Korea, reorganize operations, and to find the possibility of regenerating the Korean sewing industry by establishing contact points with domestic sewing factories. We surveyed 100 apparel brand companies in Seoul listed in the 2014/2015 Korea Fashion Brand Annual (Apparel News, 2014) and conducted a questionnaire survey on the company's general management status, type of fabric materials dealt with, and major contact points and methods of production handling. The frequency analysis indicated that the main production material with cloth type was woven fabric with ladies' clothes. The Planning MD team has the highest rate of ordering production with delivery method to the production factory after purchasing fabric and trims. Most respondents answered that they would select a production factory based on recommendations from acquaintances. This was due to a lack of no objective indicator provided by the sewing factory at present and the absence of objectively proceeded communication with brand companies. In this study, we analyze various conditions and measurements for production arrangements from a fashion brand company to revitalize sewing factories in Korea.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.150-165
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• 2016

With signs of the redevelopment of the domestic sewing industry, national support agencies were established. This study aims to assess the present conditions of the domestic sewing industry and investigate the effectiveness of national sewing industry support policies. According to the results of a survey of 30 sewing companies managers, the biggest factor causing product defects was work being rushed because of tight delivery dates, and the reduction in sales was caused by a lack of orders. Moreover, sewing technicians are aging, and the biggest reason for their decrease in number is that people do not pursue the job because of the common understanding that it is difficult. Managers perceived that the government's sewing technician training program was not a practical help. They were well aware of the support program to improve the work environment and the sewing equipment support program and showed high satisfaction with these programs, but they complained that the period for equipment rental was fixed. A majority of them thought that the Korean sewing industry environment had still not improved, and were skeptical about its future outlook. They identified its most urgent needs as the expansion of orders and the securing of manpower. The support programs that they wanted urgently included support for employees' four major public insurances and the enactment of the increase of toll processing fees.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.269-278
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• 2011

This study aims at setting up productive capacity which can be usefully utilized for work management of apparel manufacturers. So as to achieve this goal, an apparel manufacturing company which has been operated by miniline system in Seoul was selected. Standard time and man-hour were calculated to create the accurate productive capacity by observing and measuring a work flow included cutting, sewing and finishing processes. And the result is as following. The standard time for each process was presented as cutting process 47004.5s, sewing process 671050.5s and finishing process 22426.3s. And 15284.4ms was computed as total procession man-hour per day of the manufacturer which is organized of 16 people. Also, the procession man-hour for each process was revealed as cutting process 396.7ms(2.6%), sewing process 14509.3ms(94.9%) and finishing process 378.5ms(2.5%). +Surplus was found in the productivity for each process included the cutting process(outshell, lining and seam process), the sewing process(preparation and arrangement process) and the finishing process. But, additional man-hour 52436.18ms was required because the productive capacity was calculated as -surplus(-13.9%) in the sewing process(part and assembly process). Therefore, a work schedule was planned based on the previous result. However, loading can be ideal when a capacity and a load become '0'. The object company should find the way to reduce allowance(26.25%) of the sewing process through reconstruction of consciousness and improvement in functions with analyzing works of operators. Also, they need to consider an additional supplement of the personnel.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.351-362
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• 2016

Domestic sewing industry is showing signs of a redevelopment and the demands of the sewing technician are gradually increasing. This study would investigate the opinions of sewing technicians about job environments and training situation in order to solve the shortage of sewing manpower. As a result of a survey with 100 sewing technicians, of the pay systems, the salary system showed the highest satisfaction and preference. Their satisfaction with pay was low. There was a tendency that they work on Saturdays and national holidays, and their satisfaction with the number of holidays was low. Most worked for 10 to 11 hours per day, and they showed low satisfaction with their working hours. There were no places to rest in the company. They showed law satisfaction with the air and vent. The sewing technicians were concerned about respiratory and musculoskeletal diseases because of the working and workplace environment and needed places to rest, vent facilities, and spacious and comfortable spaces. The total lead-time that they were sent to the field as skilled workers was 1 to less than 2 years; they received training from seniors; and the training period, mostly, was 6 months to 2 years. Most of the sewing technicians surveyed had the expertise, did not feel the necessity of retraining related to their tasks, and did not have any willingness to take reorientation due to a lack of time even with their tasks.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.102-111
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to present the basic material for the competitive, high-quality products by analyzing employees' attitude toward their job and some factors which influence the enhancement of productivity, education of workers, and facilities. This project was mainly conducted the conditions of women's wear manufacturing industries in Taegu by interviewing 143 employees in the sewing department. The result of this dissertation can be summarized as follows; 1. When it comes to the division of task in the sewing department, one team is composed of chairpersons (33.5%), assistant members (27.4%) and sub-assistant members (26.6%). The inspection of commodities as well as the enhancement of work on ironing for elaboration was divided as completion (12.6%) and finally the forms of task were made up of design sampling team (49%) and contracting team (51%). 2. Among the needle workers, as many as 60% employees had received technical education, which was by means of being passed down from the predecessors (81.6%). In terms of the period of education, from 2 to 5 years topped the list. The contents of education comprise patterning, sewing (65.2%) and ironing (20.3%). 3. The department of design takes charge of the report on working directions up to 88.2% and the working directions were used by 69.9 % of technicians. The directors of working conditions and methods were chiefs of designing department (37.7%) and those of sewing department (30.8%). The factors of defective goods were low-quality materials (50.0%), the deficiency in skills of workers. In terms of methods for preventing defects, technical education of workers, standardization of task and investment for factory automation were suggested. 4. As for their perception of present work, most of employees (80%) look upon it as a way of earning a living and 11% of them wanted to derive many things from their work. 59.2% of workers were satisfied with the product. When it comes to the incentive system provided by company, 67.0% responsed that it was not bad, and 23.9% evaluated it as 'satisfactory'.

• Journal of the Korea Safety Management & Science
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.377-388
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• 2014

There have been a lot of studies about overseas factory location in order to meet various needs of industries according to the international economic developments. However, most of the studies were written about generic theory for general industries or mainly concerned to high capital industries. This study is focusing on the sewing and apparel industries which represent labor intensive and small-medium type of enterprises. For this study, AHP(Analytic Hierarchy Process) methods were applied to make proper analysis after wide range of survey to clarify determinants which provide a guidance for overseas factory location. As a result of the analytical researches done in the thesis the most important which should be taken consideration while determining of overseas factory location for sewing and apparel products industry are as follows - economic factors(0.569), geographic factors(0.171), social and cultural factors(0.157), regulations and institutional factors(0.103). In the last, S company is examined for example to show how this determinants have practically been applied.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.88-93
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• 2004

I The Purpose of this study is to look in to the production of high-functional clothing industry, such as item, style, layout, labor, suggest some effective solutions and alternatives for them. 23124554 For this purpose, the companies specialized in manufacturing of special high-functional clothings were sampled for a survey using interview and a questionnaire. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; It was found that since demands for high-functional apparels are low and their sewing processes are much complicated requiring expensive equipments, only a few companies are engaged in such apparels. In addition, since the quantity of order s small and material inputs are more frequently changed, the sewing processes on the production line need to be changed together with the production layouts. On the other hand, as the materials used are very special, expensive equipments should be used, for which the companies feel much burdensome financially. Accordingly, t is deemed necessary for the high-functional apparel manufactures to specialize the processes requiring specialized equipments or outsource some of them or recruit highly-skilled workers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.769-781
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• 1997

The purpose of this research is to show how to use the patternist's CAD system in order to make design patterns efficiantly. Using the PAD System Technologies company's PAD System Module, which is very officiant in designing patterns, the basic pattern or design pattern can be designed and applyed to the Sample Module, thus, then it could manufacture, retouch or choose a model, making it posible to go to the next level which is seam patterns for industrial use. By understanding the change of the design that is chosen through the design pattern making and Sample Module process', this study is presentated a plan on how to utilize the patternist's working adaption ability by the CAD system, and also considered the problems in using it. Ability of Design Confrontation of CAD System: 1) The result of an operation can be saved and retouched. On a saved list the patterns can be chosen and changed, thus, making it posible to complete a design very quickly. 2) When sewing every designed pattern in Sample Module, the model can be operated merely by selecting each sewing position, thus creating the same effect of a designer's muslin sample process in a much lesser time. Point at issue in the utilization CAD system: 1) When combining two darts into one place the amounts of darts that are already these have to be erasers, and then, the two darts points are moved that place, thus, containing them, which is very conplicated. 2) When making a gathering, because system can only be recognized in a opend line, the pattern should be separated in order to put a gathering inside a pattern. 3) In order to readjust the amounte of dart. The dart is erased first and then made new dart again. 4) When making tucks in a Sample Module, the form that gets narrow towards the pivot point can not be recognized so the sewing lines of the tucks is adjusted into parallel lines. 5) The Sample Module 3D operation can not attach the bodice to the shirts, instead they become fixed into each other. In the case of shoulder line tucks the amounts of pleats can not be expanded draperary naturally, thus, making it hard to showing the silhouette accurately. If these problems are solved, especially if the silhouette of a model can be created to have natural drapery in the 3D Module, models can be shown on the screen in possible to compare and examine even a change of a detail, by designing this 3D Module Production sample process will be more effective, thus, making the CAD system more useful in sewing design process.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.111-130
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• 2002

This study performed a structural questionnaire survey and non-structural interview of the ladies apparel manufacturers in Daegu on the qualification for the employees, skills required for job performance, job training, automatic manufacturing systems, and the use of computer. The results are as follows. 1. Almost all of the apparel manufacturing systems were Pair System, except one Line System in one company. In terms of outsourcing, most of the manufacturers answered “yes,” and in 1998 the outsourcing process was sewing, but in the year 2002, outsourcing has been increased :12 manufacturers(57.1%) outsourcing most of the processes except patterning, 3(14.3%) outsourcing the finish of sewing. 2. The workforce of 1998 and that of 2002 shows a significant difference(P＜. 01) between office work and management. The number of office workers has decreased from 15 down to 5.3 people. On the other hand, that of the management has slightly increased from 5.3 to 9.2 people. The number of the manual workers has decreased from 32.2 to 28.7 people. And the number of tailoring and patterning workers has slightly decreased, but the number has increased in sewing from 3.7 to 7.0 people. 3. The wage of an employee shows a significant difference between a sewing assistant(P＜. 01) and a production manager(P＜. 05), and the wage of a sewing assistant, in particular, has slightly raised from ￦905,000 to ￦1,054,000. 4. The qualifications required of employees are “cooperative human relations”(30.8％), “diligence,” and “ability for job analysis”(26.9％), and “positive thinking” (15.4％) in 1998, and “ability for job analysis”(38.5％), “cooperative human relations”(34.6％), and “positive thinking” (15.4％) in 2002. The areas for job openings are significantly different(P＜. 01) depending on the year. Job openings in the design section has increased from 1(3.8％) to 16 manufacturers (61.5％), and decreased in tailoring section from 22(84.6％) to 2 manufacturers(7.7％). Job openings in the sewing section have increased form 2(7.7％) to 6 manufacturers (23.1％). In terms of sex of the employees, there is a significant difference(P＜. 001). 19 companies(73.1％) wanted “male” in 1998, but 8 companies(30.8％) answered that they want “female” and 17 companies(65.4％) answered that “it does not matter.” About the educational background, there was a significant difference between the years. The number of the companies that want junior college graduates with an associate degree has increased(15 companies(57.7％). There was a significant difference(P＜. 05) in major of the employee. The number of the companies that want fashion majors has increased from 5(19.2％) to 20(76.9％). 5. In terms of job skills required, there was no significant difference. In 1998, “production skills” (46.2％) and “ability for job analysis” (26.9％) were required, and in 2002, “ability for job analysis” (42.3％) and “emotional skills” (26.9％). 6. In regard to training for job skills, “fashion professional training” has slightly decreased from 65.4％ in 1998 to 46.2％ in 2002, however, “training for job analysis” has slightly increased from 30.8％ in 1998 to 46.2％ in 2002, which indicates the fact that “fashion professional training” and “ability for job analysis” have been emphasized. 7. The number of the manufacturers purchased apparel CAD has increased from 1(3.8％) to 3(11.5％), and the number of the manufacturers that have no plan for purchase has increased from 16(61.5％) in 1998 to 15(57.7％), still taking up a big proportion. 8. About the use of computers in manufacturing, there is a significant difference(P＜. 05). The number of the manufacturers using computer has increased from 5(19.2％) to 15(57.7％) and that of the manufacturers which do not use computers has decreased from 17(57.7％) to 8(30.8％). 9. In the interviews with the owners of the manufacturers, they pointed that schools should give more weight on practical training courses, the invitation of experts in the specific field, complex production systems, training courses for sewing, field trip courses, and furthering specialty education, personality and vocational education.