• 복식
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• 제61권6호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2011

With the trend of wearing mountaineering wear as casual apparel as well as a continuous increase of mountaineers, mountaineering wear market has rapidly grown. New techniques to improve mountaineering apparel have been developed. Construction Without Sewing(CWS) is one of them. It is a sewing technique to improve performance and functions of new functional mountaineering apparel. CWS employs a welding machine with an adhesive tape and press instead of sewing so that it makes the apparel lighter and have better wearability, durability, and windproof and waterproof function, than sewed apparel. This study focuses on the concept, nature, and applications of the mountaineering wear manufactured by CWS. It also made an analysis of manufacturing process, and proposed three designs for the mountaineering wear created by CWS. With introducing the merits of CWS, the costumers will be have better understanding of CWS and break their stereotype that functional clothing is simply expensive without considering its benefits.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.59-67
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• 1986

The heat of sewing needle is generated through the friction during the needle penetration into and withdrawal from fabrics. Therefore, effects of sewing condition for knitted fabric on the heat generation of needle was examined. The needle size was not the large influence factor of heat generation of needle but the needle point shape significantly affects needle temperature. And the super needle coated with fluoro resin had more effect on reducing the heat of needle. The decrease of sewing speed and the increase of stitch rate had more effect on the reduction in needle temperature. Also the Influence of a sewing thread on the needle temperature was very large compared with bare needle. As expected, an increase in the number of fabric layers result in higher needle temperature.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2010년도 제3회 국제학회
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• pp.203-204
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• 2010

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.91-100
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• 2017

The primary goal of most clothing-related textbooks currently used in colleges in Korea is to determine how to plan and develop basic patterns. Therefore, they are limited in understanding the patterns and sewing methods of practical, ready-made clothes that are continuously being upgraded. According to previous studies regarding sewing methods in clothing construction textbooks, tight skirt, tailored jacket, and shirt sewing methods have been explained. However, there has been no study on the sewing methods of slacks. Therefore, this study attempted to suggest basic data needed for making slacks through a comparative analysis of their sewing methods for educational purposes. In addition, this paper is meaningful in that it complements clothing construction-related textbooks according to the current trends of diverse clothing design and materials and develops learning materials for the construction of clothes, which are applicable to practice. In this study, the sewing methods and construction procedures of slacks stated in clothing construction textbooks that are currently used in colleges and fashion-related educational institutes were analyzed. Among a total of 47 textbooks on the market, 15 books that cover the cutting and sewing methods of slacks and are suitable to slacks design were used. According to the analysis, most textbooks described the production methods only, without explanation of materials, which can affect clothing construction methods. Because there is a large difference in pocket and slacks procedures by textbook, there is a need for a standardized construction method with changes in clothing materials and design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.181-194
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to analyze the problems associated with the domestic fashion sewing industry and suggest solutions for re-development. The research methods are a content analysis of literature, including articles and reports, and interviewing practitioners who are in charge of the fashion industry. The problems of the domestic fashion sewing industry are as follows. 1. Weakness in price competitiveness and a lack of work. 2. Aging of workers and difficulty securing new workers. 3. The age of the production facilities and the lack of manpower required for mass production. 4. Unrealistically low cost of labor due to over-competition considering the lack of work.5. The prevalence of illegal label grinding. The solutions to the problems listed above are as follows. 1. Establishment of a win-win effort between fashion brands and sewing companies. 2. Allow systematic education, support, and development of a meister system for fostering sewing manpower. 3. Undertake efforts to improve the sewing work environment. 4. Establishment of the system for realizing the actual cost of labor. 5. Establishment of a quota system to secure domestic sewing production. 6. Construction of Smart DB to connect work orders. 7. Construction of a smart factory using technology such as automated systems of production suitable for the 4th Industrial Age. 8. Enforcement of specialized strategies to encourage fashion sewing companies, not only Seoul but also in other urban areas.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제55권5호
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• pp.555-566
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• 2017

This study analyzes the practical tasks and required competency for technical designers to provide basic data on the training of domestic technical designers. The survey was applied to 21 technical designers of big vendors as well as investigated tasks, task flow, important tasks, time-consuming tasks, and required competencies. The results of the study are as follows. First, the technical designers were in charge of several brands of buyers and distributors of fashion companies, or several lines of the same brand. The main production items were cut and sewn knits. Second, the flow of task and tasks were in the order of buyer comments analysis, sloper decision to matching style, sewing specification, productive sewing method research, size specification suggestion, pattern correction comments, construction decision to matching style & fabric, sample evaluations, fit approval, business e-mail writing, specification & grading confirmation, and communication with buyer. Third, five tasks (analysis of buyer comments analysis, communication with buyer, pattern correction comments, productive sewing methods research, sample evaluation) were important and time-consuming tasks. Fourth, reeducation was required in order of sewing, pattern, English, fabric, and fitting. Fifth, competencies to be a technical designers were fitting, pattern correction, size specification & grading, construction & sewing specification, sewing terms & techniques, and communication skills. In conclusion, technical designer training should focus on technology-based instruction, such as sample evaluation, fitting, pattern correction, and productive sewing methods research of cut and sewn knits.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2010년도 제3회 국제학회
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• pp.201-202
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• 2010

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.75-84
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• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.

• 복식
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• 제52권8호
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• pp.87-98
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• 2002

Recently, we consist in the crucial juncture have to develope culture goods which is worth standing for our nation's endemism. In this vein, this study tried to reproduce and apply it to the present time by the consideration of various elements such as the kind, the use and the fabrication of sewing craft-works was beloved in women's quarter called Kyubang in the Chosun dynasty. With this, this study was designed to develope craft-works which can make an appeal to foreigners with the merits between contemporary factor and traditional factor. The findings of this study were as follows; First, since economic system in the Chosun dynasty was based on home handicrafts and self-sufficiency, it was a commonplace of the Chosun dynasty that home industry such as sewing, spinning and sericulture was thriving among all the women without social ladder. And also, since women of the day were governed by confucian tradition and moral obligation, they mainly have to live in women's quarter called Kyubang restricted to visitors. For the reasons, Wives of the time have no choice but to spend their time by sewing in the promotion of virtues for woman. In additions, they made an effort to pray for the longevity, the wealthy and the fertility of their family members. Second, the sewing instruments is necessary for women's sewing. And also, since sewing instruments was considerably scientific, efficient in those shape and structure, this instruments could save wives a lot of trouble. Third, since many people were convinced of the functions as practicality as well as fanciness, the sewing craft-works were very useful to them in leading their daily life. Fourth, the reappeared works were a total of 22, and the applied works were a total of 17.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.15-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designing and making of brassiere with the consideration of the physiological nature of man. Each of 3/4-cup wired upward-support-type Mold Bra of 75 size with basic pad made at three representative domestic companies (A, B and C Company) was selected for analysis of pattern and components. The following is the result of this study. 1. That Company A's bra had the highest cup, relatively narrow width, the widest front-center and the highest front center at front pad. That of Company B had relatively short wing over the base and much difference at the height of cup depending on the presence of wire. That of Company C had low and wide cup, the widest bust span and the front center width, the front center height of front pad, the base length of front pad and the length of wings were observed to be of the figures between those of Company A and B. 2. The Bra of Company A had the biggest front center angle of $6^{\circ}$, while that of Company C had the biggest wing angle of $18^{\circ}$. The Bra of Company B showed the biggest difference of patterns depending on the presence of wire. Those of Company A and C showed very similar shape when wire was inserted. 3. The order of making brassiere is following: making of exterior mold cup${\rightarrow}$ sewing exterior cup and circumference of mold${\rightarrow}$ sewing base and wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to base${\rightarrow}$ sewing cup and main pad${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to upper sides and upper part of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing wire-tape to interior base of cup${\rightarrow}$ inserting of wire inside wire-tape${\rightarrow}$ sewing hook & eye on the back of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing shoulder string.