• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.44-50
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• 2020

In this study, pre-treatment was performed on kapok, a hydrophobic fiber, to compare dyeability by hydrophilization. The pretreatment conditions of kapok fiber were used with different amounts of sodium oleate(NaO), a fatty acid-based anionic surfactant, and xanthan gum(XG) as a natural thickener. At this time, NaO and XG were separately or mixed treated with 0.01%, 0.1%, 1% aqueous solution at 80℃ for 30 min. Hydrophilicity through dyeing was confirmed using Sappan wood extract. Therefore, SEM observation was performed to investigate the surface change of kapok fiber according to the conditions. The surface color difference was also analyzed. Pretreated kapok fibers were made from nonwoven fabrics and the contact angles were measured to determine their hydrophilization. The surface of the fiber after pretreatment was found to be cracked when NaO and NaO were mixed with XG. The surface color was the highest in a^⁎ and K/S values after the simultaneous treatment of NaO and XG, followed by NaO pretreatment and XG pretreatment. The contact angle of kapok fiber made of nonwoven fabric was slightly lower at 300g/㎡ than the fabric weight of 150g/㎡. Such hydrophilized nonwoven kapok fiber are expected to be used in various fields.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.61-69
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• 1999

The dyeing experiments were done by using tannin pigments and herbs for natural fabrics such as ramie, hemp and silk. The anti-bacterial ability and color fastness were examined for dyed fabrics. Dye materials containing tannin pigment such as oak tree leaf showed rich dyeing on ramie, hemp, and silk fabrics when the pH of dye solution is lower as well as the dyeing temperature is higher. In crimson dyeing, the colour of fabric showed red-purple when the crimson pigment was extracted at 40$^{\circ}C$, while yellow-red when extracted above 70$^{\circ}C$. The colour fastness of dye materials containing tannin pigment was excellent showing 3~4 grade or above, while most of those derived from chinese medicine showed poor colour fastness of below 3 grade. The anti-bacterial ability of dye materials derived from chinese medicine was high, since the sappan wood fabric showed low bacteria reduction rate.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.15-27
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to perform research of ecology concepts expressed in fashion and to propose a new ecology fashion design based on the results. As a specific research method, first, to determine the concept of ecology, the contents related to ecology were extracted and organized through literature research, and then a fashion collection research was conducted to acquire basic design data, such as silhouettes, materials, details, and colors. From WGSN, and a total of 57 images were selected and used as basic data for the design suggestions. As a result of collecting the collection images, it was found that cotton or denim fabrics were mainly used, and in particular, the frequency of use was high mainly for bright tones. The use of chambray, lace, and wrinkles, was also frequent, and the use of expression techniques using burn-out, bleach, and bleaching effects or parts, or entire dyeing was often noticeable. The colors showed neutral and pastel-toned characteristics, and the silhouette was mainly composed of long silhouettes centered on maxi, such as a top or calf based on the knee, rather than a mini. Fabrics for the final designs were linen and sappan wood, and they were used for the dye and red was used as the overall color. The silhouettes were simplified, and care was taken to prevent unnecessary waste, such as paper or materials, from being generated during the production stage. We tried to achieve the purpose of eco-logy by refraining from excessive trimming, except for essential subsidiary materials, such as zippers.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.19
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• pp.53-68
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• 2018

Hanging scrolls and handscrolls are common mounting for East Asian painting and calligraphy in which wooden Chukmok with Chukdu of various materials are attached either at the top and bottom or at each side of a work. Hanging scroll paintings or calligraphy can be hung for appreciation and rolled up for preservation. The Chukmok and Chukdu of a hanging scroll were made from different materials and were known by distinct names in Korea, China, and Japan. In Korea, the wooden Chukmok were called sanghachukhoengmok(上下軸橫木), which means horizontal wooden bars for the top and bottom axes. The wooden Chukdu were called Chukdu(軸頭), meaning the head of an axis. These Chukmok and Chukdu were made of Korean red pine, nut pine, or shiny xylosma. In China, the rod was called zhougan(軸杆) and zhoutou(軸頭), and they were made of Japanese cedar, sappan wood, or red sandalwood. In Japan, the top rod was called hassou(八双; 八裝) and the bottom jikugi(軸木), and they were made of Japanese cedar, red sandalwood, or crystal. In Korean hanging scrolls, the cross section of a Chukdu is either flat or round, and it can be either patterned or patternless. The designs include concentric circles, two circles, and three circles. Among the portraits of meritorious subjects analyzed in this study, three examples feature concentric circles on Chukdu with a flat cross section, which coincides with most of the king's instructions housed at the Jangseogak Archives. This suggests that flat Chukdu with a concentric circle pattern were used for binding most of the paintings of meritorious subjects commissioned by the royal court.