• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.89-101
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• 1993

The Russian revolution and the successive "art into production" atmosphere provided a unique model of a strict inter-relation between social process and innovative process in the taste. Influenced by CUBISM, RAYONISM and SUPREMATISM emerged in Russia around the time of Russian revolution and gave way to CONSTRUCTIVISM, based on Tatlin's theory, which played a vital role to combine art with social committment. One of the first question to be established after the revolution was the function of art within the new society. First, it should be propagandistic and empahsise the benefit of the new state. Secondly, art could take on an affirmatory role putting foward ideal views of the society as example to be disscussed and followed. Thirdly, the Constructivists' view, "Death to Art" was their slogan. Their view was that the artists' work in the new society was to be based on the material value and beauty in fuction as this alone could be consistent with the aesthetics of Marx and Lenin. It sould be pointed out that among the various applied arts, textiles and clothing design were considered one of the most important role in propaganda and in support of the new socialst ideas. Traditionl handicrafts provided a repository of popular images and folk art continued to assert an influence on the textiles and clothing design after the revolution. Constructivists, such as Stepanova and Popova, went to the factory as direct answer to the invitation for the art-industry rapport. Thematic or propagandistic designs were directly connected to the daily life and national transformation.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.101-117
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• 2001

Artist's creative works is accomplished in the very complicated network being in fluenced each other, getting celebrate from surround and center, and showing repetition and change. It took an important role of 1920's culture with new social and mental feature generated by revolution. It also has been influenced on an intellectual paradigm and artistic tendency. According to the feather the Art to Wear of Constructivism, at first, design as absolution of folk art in Russia prior to the concept is coming up to systematic design and useful article's performance. Courageous arrangement of color and rhythm is unique. The second is a tendency clothing design of productirism. It is connected with material culture and artists insisted creature of productive material that is a essential in life than Arts in museum. The third, tendency clothing design of minimalism emphasis functional aspect that is produced industrial aesthetics. The examples are simply designed and functional cloths for sorking uniform. This thesis is studied about clothing and textiles of major artists, formative property, and international reflection from October revolution in 1917 that is strengthen a system by introducing a new economic policy to a five year plan.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.183-203
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• 1998

The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제7호
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• pp.125-163
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• 2009

The artworks of Socialist Realism of the former Soviet Union, with the beginning of the 21st century, are gaining a new attention from art collectors. One reason for this might consist in the fact that relevant art pieces exemplify the ways in which they visualize ideas on the basis of their high-profile art tradition and also in which they integrate their utopian ideals with mysticism. These aspects of the Soviet art goes far beyond the wide-spread assumption that their art, as a means of propaganda, principally represents a political allegiance to the system. With Stalin coming into power in the 1930s, the artistic trend of Socialist Realism obtained a nationwide sympathy and support from people, giving birth to a new art which essentially corresponded to the demands of the political power. An official art current of the USSR over the period from the 1930s to 1950s, Socialist Realism was in tandem with the Communist commitment to the party and popularity, symbolizing a loyalty to the cause. It was thus characterized by plainness and lucidity so that ordinary people could gain easy access to art. Its salient feature, over an entire range of art, was an optimistic pursuit of a utopian dream. Therefore, it tallied with the popular sentiment for a Communist paradise, giving form to their beliefs in human agency working at the materialist world and also to such abstract concepts as force, fitness, and beauty by adding even mythical ideals. Its main subject matter includes harvest feasts of collective farms, imaginary socialist cities, grand marches of heroic laborers and in this way it served as a propaganda for a sacred utopia of socialist totalitarianism. On the other end of the spectrum, however, rose the second camp of art, which put an emphasis on bona-fide artistic activities of plastic art and on an artist's personal expression and freedom, as opposed to the surface optimism of Socialist Realism. Central to the Russian Avant Garde art, which prized the above-mentioned values, were Malevich's Geometric Abstraction and A. Rodchenko's Constructivism. Furthermore, in the transitional era of the late 20th century and the 21st century it was recognized that film art or electronic media art, rather than traditional genre of paintings, would function as a more efficient way of propaganda. These new genres were made possible by ridiculing the stereotypes of the Russian lifestyle and also by ignoring ethical or professional dimensions of artworks. That is, they reinvented themselves into a sort of field art, seemingly degrading the quality of artworks and transforming them into artifacts or simulacres in the very sense of post-modernism. The advent of the new era brought about the formation and occupation of pop culture of the younger generations, calling into question the idea of art as the class-determined. It also increased the attention to field art, which extensively found way to modern art centers, galleries, and exhibition projects. It can be stated that this was a natural outcome of human nature.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제27호
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• pp.120-127
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of space design of Isamu Noguchi's works barred on the stage sets and environmental designs. From the end of 19th century, space which was begun to be studied about in architects has continued to be researched by not only scientists but artists. Recently, space Is expressed in free and new forms due to diversity of societies and advancement of technology, As a result, space has become an essential part in art and is used in the titles of many art exhibitions. This study scrutinizes space in Isamu Noguchi's works. No other 20th century artist has as clear and progressive space conception as Noguchi's. His notion of modern art was modified through space in the tradition of cubism and Russian Constructivism and Bauhaus. Combined with his experience in the traditional Japanese houses and gardens, these influences led toward a broadened conception of sculpture as the creation of living space. These modernist's characteristics are found in his early expression of stage sets for choreographer Martha Graham, and they would lead to a wide range of design activities, from gardens and interiors to fountains and furniture. Isamu Noguchi had created a body of work that crossed the boundary between fine and applied art as a sculptor, and as an environmental designer.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.217-228
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• 2001

This study* 1) historically considered the meaning of light which has frequently wed as the subject of artistic expression since Renaissance, in order to grasp an artistic atmosphere about light and rays before the allusion of Rayonism. non it inspected closely the course of changes of light as a result of historic circumstances and intended to understand how Rusian Rayonism of the 20th, which maintained these effects of light more rationally, had an influence on modern fashion. It was created by Mikhail Larionov and developed by his wife, N. Goncharova. The main special feature of Rayonism wag the crossing of reflected ras, emerging from various objects. Most of these things depended on line and color. Re purpose of Rayonism paintings was to create a new space from arising from which reflected rays from various selected objected crossed one another. Namely, artists maintained that they should give up various objects of visible world and express rays which were reflected objects and crossed in complex. Rayonists were affected by Cubism and Futurism and came to fake an interest in relations whose rays of parallel or convergent color made, also in expression of themes. Since that, Rayonsim affected Supermatisme and Constructivism. Re pursuit of light and rays from the 19th until the early 20th came to appear in fashion as well as in art as it was. As Rayonists created a new space from which reflected rays from selected objects crossed one another, they used line and color as the main techniques of expression. in this way the attempt which intended to express rays, using itself of the line and color, appeared as futile design of tots of designs like Donna Karan, Cianni Versace and Rococo Barocco and so on of Modem fashion. This was designed for essential elements of pure art to express the new aestheic consciousness through fashion.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.88-101
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• 2018

본고는 니콜라 부리오(Nicolas Bourriaud)의 포스트프로덕션(Postproduction) 개념에 토대하여 동시대 예술 형식의 상호성과 공유 가능성을 통시적 관점에서 분석하였다. 표본 사례로 예시한 올라퍼 알리아슨(Olafur Eliasson), 리크리트 티라바니자(Rirkrit Tiravanija,), 아이 웨이웨이(Ai WeiWei)의 근작에서 예술은 전지구적 현안에의 관여를 유도하는 실행 체계이자 협업 시스템으로서 제시된다. 이러한 형식주의 작업 양상은 탈중심을 넘어 사용자 중심으로 재편되고 있는 동시대 IT 네트워크 환경과 경험을 투영한다. 예술과 비예술의 경계가 모호해진 시장주의 현실에 대한 대응 방안으로서 예술가들은 공유와 확장성을 지향하는 사용자 문화를 적극 포용하고 있다. 작품의 생산과 유통 과정에 수용자가 직접 개입할 수 있도록 작업체계는 분산적으로 구축되는데, 이는 기존의 관객 참여형 예술과 궤를 함께 하면서도 매체 실험을 넘어서는 것이다. 여기서 온오프라인을 넘나들며 탈정형적 연대를 추구하는 사용자들이 서로에게 잠재된 가능성을 일깨워내는 쇄신 주체로 상정된다. 참여 양식이 집단 지성에 대한 상호 신뢰를 토대로 유무형의 자원 공유와 네트워킹에 기반하면서, 예술은 대안적 현실을 모색하는 공론장이자 플랫폼으로 제시되고 있다.