• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.88-104
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• 1999

This study was carried out to classify the Hanjis into three groups that were indigenous Hanji, traditional Hanji, and improved Hanji handmade by paper making method according to the physical properties of each paper sheet such as tensile, bursting and tearing strength, folding endurance and fiber orientation in each layer. The results obtained were summarized as follows: 1. The multi-layered Hanjis made by "Oebal" Hanji making method in different direction of fiber orientation have good properties in tearing resistance. 2. The multi-layered Hanji in different direction of fiber orientation has good properties in the tearing resistance, but the burst index and the breaking length results were lower than the single layered Hanjis. 3. The different fiber orientation and multi-layered method didn't increase, the three indexes(burst index, tear index, breaking length). Only, the different direction of fiber orientation decreased the difference of width and length strength (tensile, tear) of the Hanji. 4. "Dochim"(Korean finishing touch process for indigenous Hanji by fulling round sticks) greatly increase folding endurance(double folds, not $log_{10}$) and good effect to tensile strength and burst strength. 5. The today's Oebal Hanji were the maximum of 2 layers and the indigenous Oebal Hanji were 16 layers the maximum. In addition, average of the indigenous Oebal Hanji was 4 layers(all 4-layer Hanji were the different fiber orientation of each layer). 6, The indigenous Hanji(multi-layered, and different fiber orientation) was good condition with "Dochim". Dochim increased tensile strength and burst strength of the indigenous Hanji. So the three-strength indexes were similar level("--"). 7. When the number of layer which were same fiber orientation increase, the increased Hanji became similar strength pattern("V", breaking length and burst index was higher than tear index) with "Ssangbal" Hanji. 8. The single layered papers that made by "Oebal" Hanji making method were similar strength pattern with Ssangbal Hanji. 9. There was no way to find the width and length direction of multi-layered Hanji by comparison between the difference of tensile strength and the difference of tearing resistance. 10. The compared pattern of tensile strength and tearing resistance of indigenous Oebal Hanji was different from today's Oebal Hanji. Especially, the tearing resistance of all indigenous Oebal Hanji(16 samples) was stronger on width of tearing resistance. And in the half of indigenous Oebal Hanji samples, the width of tensile strength and tearing resistance was stronger than length strength (Indigenous Oebal: '$\ulcorner\lrcorner$' 50%, '$\bigcup$' 50% $\leftrightarrow$ Today's Oebal: '$\ulcorner\lrcorner$' 12%, '$\bigcup$'6%, '$\llcorner\urcorner$'17%, '$\bigcap$'65%). In 65% today's Oebal, the length direction of tensile strength and tearing resistance was stronger than the width direction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.263-276
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• 1994

The achievement of notable social reoforms attained during the period of 19th and 20th centuries needlessly speaking remodelded the social environmental into several different patterns such as :1) high industrialization 2) propensity to consume 3) up graded overall social stands. Accordingly the industrial world of the but-tons too established the mess production syhstem by breaking from convention of hand-craft work of 17th century. The raw materials used in the production line on buttons during the 20th century are almost all-kind of materials one can possibly named including cheap plastic which enabled production lines to produce cheaper but higher productivities of the buttons being produced, The design (incused design) used in the 19-20h centuries are : men landscape, sports features, birds, livestocks, bugs, or geomatric features, tec, 1, The classification o f the buttons by materials Techniques shapes colors marking (Incused design) used in the productionof buttons in the England United States of America Laska Italy france Denmark Japan and India are categolizzed as : natural raw materials and syntetical resines. 1) Of the natural raw materials used are : Matal Enamel Iodine Agate, Coral, Green jade(Jasper) Granite, Wood, Ivory, Horn and bone etc. 2) The sythetical resin used in the button in-dustries are : Artificial jewell glass Acrylic material Styroform Celluloid and Nylon etc. 2. The thecnique quoted in producing buttons are hand craft work inlay work precision casting press mosic dye etching, processing, engraving and embossed carving etc. 3. The major designs used in the buttons in -dustries are : Round shape however elliptical column angular and edge shape often used. 4. The colors used are : The multi-colors were highly used than mono-colored materials such as : Adjoining Color and Contrast Color. The highest consideration to be considered in choosing the colors for the buttons are harmonization and matching factor with the garment or dresses to be wore. 5. The major design(incused design) on the buttons are embodiment and the design were also used in order of abstractive-combination abstractive with has offers much surprising. The button industries during the 19th and 20th centuries were not only the determination factors those can judge the value of self-pride of Nation and which were far beyond the in-dustrial arts in those days but also highly refelected and influenced by cultural sense ideology and self-pride of the Nation of those period. The followings are details of the role of the buttons categolized in the order of functional ornamental and symbolical aspects : 1. The functional role : The functional role of the buttons were simply designed for dress how-ever the buttons beyond from this role of function now a days. 2. The ornamental role : The ornamental role of he button beyond from this role of the button were effectuated by : 1) shape materials colors 2) technique locations size and design (incused design) 3) The ramaterials used for buttons shall not be over looked because it is highly depends on the taste sense and combination of harmony with the garment to be wore. 4) The color of the buttons are made well contrasted with the color of garments just as in the case of other artistical area such as matchs with the color of garment of contrast with brigtness of colors contrasted as complementary color and so and so. 5) The technique being adoped are: precision casting press handcraft inlay work etching mosic etc,. Since the buttons are no longer a simple catching devise used to fasten together the different part of the dress but now it has formed own and occupied the independent role in the garment or dresses location can be de-termined and varying depending on the ideas of designers. The size of the buttons has no specific limits, However the variation has widely dependined on the entire circumperence rhythm contrast harmonization of the garments. 3. The symbolical role : Since the button is no longer a just a simple devise for catching and fastening device used fastening together the different part of the garments but now were built a independent area as major part of the Garment and well reflected all kinds of occupations political background cultural as-pect etc. on the buttons. The design of buttons in the western circles are more simplified but they are polished looks and their techniques of manufacturing are comination of both machanis and handcraft. The colors used in the buttons are pretty well harmonized with garment(dress). Almost all kind of materials can be used in the but-tons however materials used in the buttons are : Bone of livestocks ivory, turtle shell are no longer used because the prevention of cruely of animal. On the contraly the level of buttons indus-try of Korea is far to reach and catch up with the level of western circles. It is highly suggested therefore the but-tons industrial field of Republic of Korea shall place and encouragement in producing beter industrial environment of the buttons based on the traditional and cultural aspect of republic of Korea to produce both manufacturing of qulified and best designed and colored buttons.