• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.88-104
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• 1999

본 시험은 외발 뜨기 한지와 쌍발 뜨기 한지를 구분하고 각각의 물성 차이 중 특히 4가지 강도에 대해 상대적 우위와 가로 세로 강도의 차이를 파악했다. 그 결과, 섬유 배향성을 특별히 고려하지 않은 외발 뜨기는 쌍발 뜨기와 비교해 가로, 세로 강도 차이가 다소 적다는 것 외에 특별히 뛰어난 점이 없다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 외발 뜨기 한지가 질기다고 느껴지는 것은 좋은 원료와 토착식 제법으로 여러 장(2~8장) 겹쳐서 절대적인 강도를 향상시켰기 때문이며 상대적인 강도인 지수비교에서는 큰 차이가 없었다. 또한 부가적으로 도침의 효과를 파악할 수 있었다. 도침은 내절도를 두드러지게 향상시켰으며 인열지수(인열강도)를 뺀 열단장과 파열지수(파열강도)를 높이는 역학을 했다. 특히 열단장(인장강도)의 향상을 가져왔다. 그리고 토착식 제법의 외발 뜨기는 여러 겹을 겹칠수록 인열지수가 증가(다른 강도에 비교해 상대적인 증가임)하는 경향을 보였다. 그러므로 도침과 토착식 한지는 서로 부족한 강도를 훌륭히 보완하는 역할을 했음을 알 수 있었다. 따라서 섬유 배향성을 고려하여 초지하고 도침을 실시해야 외발 뜨기 고유의 강도적 특징을 살릴 수가 있음을 알 수 있었다. 그리고 오늘날에 토착 외발 뜨기 방식으로 제조된 전통 한지들은 전체적인 강도면에서 토착 한지류와 비슷했으며 2겹지의 경우엔 가로 세로 강도차이도 토착한지 수준이었다. 그러나 강도들간의 우열 특성에서는 인열강도가 특히 낮았던 쌍발 뜨기 한지와 전체적으로 고른 강도를 보인 토착 외발 뜨기 한지의 중간에 위치하여 개선의 여지를 찾을 수 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.263-276
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• 1994

The achievement of notable social reoforms attained during the period of 19th and 20th centuries needlessly speaking remodelded the social environmental into several different patterns such as :1) high industrialization 2) propensity to consume 3) up graded overall social stands. Accordingly the industrial world of the but-tons too established the mess production syhstem by breaking from convention of hand-craft work of 17th century. The raw materials used in the production line on buttons during the 20th century are almost all-kind of materials one can possibly named including cheap plastic which enabled production lines to produce cheaper but higher productivities of the buttons being produced, The design (incused design) used in the 19-20h centuries are : men landscape, sports features, birds, livestocks, bugs, or geomatric features, tec, 1, The classification o f the buttons by materials Techniques shapes colors marking (Incused design) used in the productionof buttons in the England United States of America Laska Italy france Denmark Japan and India are categolizzed as : natural raw materials and syntetical resines. 1) Of the natural raw materials used are : Matal Enamel Iodine Agate, Coral, Green jade(Jasper) Granite, Wood, Ivory, Horn and bone etc. 2) The sythetical resin used in the button in-dustries are : Artificial jewell glass Acrylic material Styroform Celluloid and Nylon etc. 2. The thecnique quoted in producing buttons are hand craft work inlay work precision casting press mosic dye etching, processing, engraving and embossed carving etc. 3. The major designs used in the buttons in -dustries are : Round shape however elliptical column angular and edge shape often used. 4. The colors used are : The multi-colors were highly used than mono-colored materials such as : Adjoining Color and Contrast Color. The highest consideration to be considered in choosing the colors for the buttons are harmonization and matching factor with the garment or dresses to be wore. 5. The major design(incused design) on the buttons are embodiment and the design were also used in order of abstractive-combination abstractive with has offers much surprising. The button industries during the 19th and 20th centuries were not only the determination factors those can judge the value of self-pride of Nation and which were far beyond the in-dustrial arts in those days but also highly refelected and influenced by cultural sense ideology and self-pride of the Nation of those period. The followings are details of the role of the buttons categolized in the order of functional ornamental and symbolical aspects : 1. The functional role : The functional role of the buttons were simply designed for dress how-ever the buttons beyond from this role of function now a days. 2. The ornamental role : The ornamental role of he button beyond from this role of the button were effectuated by : 1) shape materials colors 2) technique locations size and design (incused design) 3) The ramaterials used for buttons shall not be over looked because it is highly depends on the taste sense and combination of harmony with the garment to be wore. 4) The color of the buttons are made well contrasted with the color of garments just as in the case of other artistical area such as matchs with the color of garment of contrast with brigtness of colors contrasted as complementary color and so and so. 5) The technique being adoped are: precision casting press handcraft inlay work etching mosic etc,. Since the buttons are no longer a simple catching devise used to fasten together the different part of the dress but now it has formed own and occupied the independent role in the garment or dresses location can be de-termined and varying depending on the ideas of designers. The size of the buttons has no specific limits, However the variation has widely dependined on the entire circumperence rhythm contrast harmonization of the garments. 3. The symbolical role : Since the button is no longer a just a simple devise for catching and fastening device used fastening together the different part of the garments but now were built a independent area as major part of the Garment and well reflected all kinds of occupations political background cultural as-pect etc. on the buttons. The design of buttons in the western circles are more simplified but they are polished looks and their techniques of manufacturing are comination of both machanis and handcraft. The colors used in the buttons are pretty well harmonized with garment(dress). Almost all kind of materials can be used in the but-tons however materials used in the buttons are : Bone of livestocks ivory, turtle shell are no longer used because the prevention of cruely of animal. On the contraly the level of buttons indus-try of Korea is far to reach and catch up with the level of western circles. It is highly suggested therefore the but-tons industrial field of Republic of Korea shall place and encouragement in producing beter industrial environment of the buttons based on the traditional and cultural aspect of republic of Korea to produce both manufacturing of qulified and best designed and colored buttons.