• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1353-1364
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.17-44
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• 1997

Medieval European practical art and style of costume is studied through referring to the literatures. The type of clothing that was seen on tapestries arts and crafts paintings and wall paintings and appeared in the architecture such as church. There were symbolic aspects of color motifs at this period and some restraints for clothing according to the social class, It was a period that draped garments due to the War of Crusades is appeared. Be-cause the medieval taste and decorative character is not only 'formative art' but also the taste beyoud 'mode' and atomsphere of that times it could be seen the strong reflec-tion of customs in the clothing of that times which is shown in works of art. 1) The purpose of Christian art which was found in mosaics stained glasses wall pain-tings and statues of architecture was not just the revival of natural phenomena but visuali-zation of sacred and invisible things. It was valuable to understandin of the spiritual through the sense organ It was a monumental art that was combined with decorative func-tion and role of the Bible. It revealed what was about the religious spiritual miracle, 2) In the medieval European painting characteristic and beautiful creativity was the basis of an argument. Both "Worship of East-ern" that is painted ion a parchment and "Cor-onation of Charles VI" were described decor-ation motifs on the edge of buildings geo-metric patterns and others with outstanding skill. there were precise technologic skill of architect and glassmen and lots of patience of craftsmen. " The Labour of the Months" and the scene of"A Trial at the Court" is also de-scribed elaborately. 3) Tapestry was developed in France Ger-many Swiss at the 14th century. Religionary and historical themes unicorn lady bird flowering plants and others were major motifs. It was very important as decorative wall coverings and as practical door arch and bed hangings. It was made through patient hard work with simple technique and it was con-sidered as an art for practical use. Tapestry was what everyone wish to have. It is reckoned for the item of the best gift. The royalty and nobility ordered and used custom-made tapestries. Sometimes the subject of motifs consisted of series which were deeply related to living 4) Decorative arts and crafts was the art that used materials such as precious metals jewels and others and that accorded with the luxurious and gorgeous taste of the royalty and nobility. Christian considered splendid and beautiful color of light as a symbol of glory. They used also for church appliances, There were metal crafts wood crafts textile crafts and others, As was stated above the costume appeared on the arts and crafts for living revealed the process of changes saw how the politic econ-omic and social organizations were developed.and social organizations were developed.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.175-183
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• 2021

Gongjae Yoon DuSeo(1668~1715), from Haenam in the late Joseon Dynasty, is a scholar-born painter who was active during King Sukjong. He is the person who created the foundation as a pioneer of realist paintings in the late Joseon period during the transition from the middle to the latter period. He was born in Namin's prestigious family, but he ended his career as part of a partisan fight and immersed himself in painting and learning. 18C, the beginning of the late Joseon Dynasty, was a period when Silhak emerged and the Jinkyung era opened with awareness of nationalism. At this time, by incorporating the Silhak thought into the art world, the real reformed aesthetic consciousness was demonstrated to pioneer common people's customs, the application of Western painting methods, the pursuit of realist techniques, and the introduction of Namjongmuninhwa. His view of painting, who thoroughly learned the old things and pursued change, must have both the form and spirit that he can achieve 'HwaDo' only when it has the science of 'learning and knowledge' and the technical elements of 'practice and quality' emphasized. He has worked in a variety of reconciliations. In particular, portrait paintings are characterized by ihyeongsasin's realistic expressions of aesthetics. His masterpiece, 「Self-portrait」, excels in extreme-realistic depiction and innovation in composition, and stands out with an unconventional experimentation spirit that expresses his mind and thoughts in a painting with a sense of resentment. His landscape paintings combine to express the form as it is and mental notions, and beautifully embodied Do as a form, thus achieving ihyeongmido, which reached the level of'joyfulness forgotten even the heart of joy'. On the other hand, the generalization of the common people using various common people's lives as the subject of an open-mindedness aimed at gaining the facts of ihyeongsajin, a passive protest against corrupt power and an expression of a spirit of love. Since then, his painting style has been passed down from generation to generation to his eldest son Yoon Deok-hee and his grandson Yoon Yong, leading the change and revival of calligraphy art in the late Joseon Dynasty.