• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.165-175
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• 2007

Religion affects all the dimension of human beings, and at the same time it forms one dimension of human beings. Costume Is considered as a result that reflects the phases of the time and the characteristics of a wearer. Costume, also, has been influenced by religion that has led one's belief, social spirit and culture for a long period of time. The Eastern aesthetics has expanded the area of thoughts with the concepts that originated from Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. Among the concepts, Non-Dualistic Theory is the core idea of Buddhism.'rho theory contains the moaning that one should not lean to one side between existence and nonexistence and should not be obsessed with the center. It was the most powerful Buddhistic idea that had an influence on Asian aesthetics. Korean traditional costume is not an exception. This study has a significance that it was conducted to understand the relation between religious principle and traditional custom through mainly using documentary records. The formative characteristics of Korean traditional costume influenced by Non-Dualistic Theory ran be summarized as non-structure like, indeterminate forms, amorphousness and anti-decoration such as plainness, temperance and achromatic color. Aesthetic value was expressed through 'the aesthetic of emptiness', 'the aesthetic of hiding', and 'the aesthetic of nature'. Although the appearance of a religious symbol can change, an essential element in religion lasts as human society remains. Although our clothing culture has converted to western style, Korean traditional aesthetics is placed deep inside of 'the Koreans' spirit and has a consistent effect on our overall culture of clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.671-682
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze styles of costume and understand meanings related to costume embodied in the images of Buddha in Baekche period. Visual and textual analysis of the paintings include the images of Buddha in Baekche period was used for the research. The results of this study were summarized as fellows; Budah's hair style is identified as simple, Gae. Buddha wears Sanghati(outer wear) made of Tongeun and Peundanwoogeun, and many cases Sanghati made of Tongeun are usually seen. Three kinds of upper garment were identified; Samkaksika, right and left crossed upper garment, and Peunsam. Samkaksika was frequently seen in the paintings. Lower garment was a Nirasana reach to the ankle, was worn with a belt. Two skirts were also seen occasionally. The symbolic meaning of costume of Buddha was related to its religious meaning and identified as majesty and saintliest, which is harmonized with her simple costume styles. The wrapped style of costume, which did not show the contour of the buddha's body adds mystery. Also, the styles of costume created by different wrapping methods signify originality.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.185-194
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• 2004

This study examined the characteristics of 45 sects of seven new aboriginal religious groups in Korea including Jeungsan sect, Tangun sect, Soowoon sect, Won Buddhism, Bongnam sect, Gahksedo sect, Shamanism sect that had given a considerable influence on the modem Korean society since the end of 19th century through the field study and the review of documents. The purpose of the study was to elucidate how their religious ideas were reflected in their ceremonial costumes and what characteristics these costumes had. The results were as follows: 1. The new religious groups in Korea modified or mixed the designs or the names of existing outfits to convey their ideas or beliefs through their costumes. 2. The costumes of new religious groups had common characteristics of the times, Korean tradition and ancestor worship. 3. All the ceremonial costumes symbolized the creeds and ideas of each religion in their names, designs, and colors. The names of the costumes such as Way-Robe, Law-Robe, and Ceremony-Robe, and of the headpieces such as Sky-Crown, Lotus-Crown, Ceremony-Crown, and Sevenfold-Crown, for instance, were related with Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. The most common design of costume was consisted of traditional hanbok and some type of headpiece and robe for men, and hanbok modified to Western-style for women. Most sects adopted hanbok as their ceremonial costume, but they tend to simplify its design. The color scheme of the costumes reflected the influence of the Yul-Yang and Five Elements idea but the colors varied depending on seasons and occasions to suit their creeds and philosophy. 4. These religious costumes were worn at various ceremonies, ritual, and various anniversary services for the master and other dignitaries of the sect to render greater piety to those gatherings, to distinguish the sect from other religious groups, to clarify the meaning of the ceremony, and to heighten the devout feelings of the participants. Thus, the structure (the symbol, names, and types of the outfit, and their color scheme) and religious background of the costumes of the new aboriginal religious groups in Korea turned out to have inherited and mixed various elements of traditional Korean outfits and those of existing religions to symbolize their religious ideas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.111-122
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• 2002

The study of traditional costume is significant in terms of figuring out of the reality of its originality and enrich the costume culture of today. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics and to contemplate the aesthetic values of the Kokuryo costume. Kokuryo costume were characterized with the simpleness in its clothing constructions. The spaces found on the dresses were emphasized giving a geometric characteristics and abstract images. Many different colors were used for tops, bottoms, and border elements showing value contrast in each parts of dress. Patterns were simplified in a dot or stripe shapes impling a certain symbols. Dot patterns were varied in its shapes. In general. the decorative elements were simple and eliminated. Through the process of investigating these aesthetic characteristics, aesthetic values were found. The aesthetics of nature were favoured and tradition were respected. Religious mind were favoured and progressive spirit were endowed by the Kokuryo people. They have pursued the diversities and many changes in visual forms of dresses which were the manifestations of their esprit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.1-17
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• 2006

This study purposed to examine Korean people's white clothes custom historically and to explain the aesthetic consciousness latent in the custom. Korean people preferred white clothes, even up to foreigners called them White-clad folk. Not only as in old historical literatures, but also in Soo-suh, Shin-Dang-suh including Sam-Kuk-Ji in China, white clothes were a real symbol to Korean people, ranging chronically far back to the age of ancient tribal countries, Sam-Kuk Period through Koryo Dynasty and even to modern age near the end of Chosun Dynasty, wearing with pleasure regardless of age, sex or social position. Even King himself in Koryo Dynasty is said to have worn white clothes when he was out of official hours. During the Koryo and Chosun Dynasty, white clothes were sometimes prohibited for various reasons including conflicts with the theories of yin-yang and the five elements but such regulations were not effective. To Korean people, white clothes were ordinary people's everyday dress as well as noble people's plain suits, saints' uniforms with religious meanings, ceremonial costumes, funeral garments, etc. The various uses show that white clothes have been worn by many people. The unique custom that a People have worn white clothes consistently for such a long time may contain very deep symbolic meanings representing the people's sentiments and spirits. The present study understood that the meanings come from religious sacredness, magical wish for brightness, the pursuit of purity originating from the people's national traits, assimilation with nature and the will to attain whole ascetic personality. Aesthetic attitudes based on aesthetic values summed up as sacredness, brightness, purity, assimilation with nature, asceticism, etc. are the aesthetic consciousness pursued by Koreans through their white clothes. For Koreans, white color is the origin of their color sense coming from primitive religions such as worshipping the sun and the heaven. In this way, Korean people's preference for white clothes began with primitive religions, was mixed with various social, cultural and religious influences and finally was settled as their durable spirit, symbol and beauty.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.113-125
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• 1998

This study has resulted in the followings applying costume's form and meaning to the theory of structuralism established by Saussure and the extensive and contained meanings of Roland Barthes. The kinds of woman's costume of the Romanesque era were not various, but those of the royal family and aristocratic class were more various and decorated better than the lowly persons. So their social levels could be differed by the forms of the costume they wore. Each form of costume was differed according to the structural elements and showed the feature that the form is the costume of the era and social position's differences of the wearers' sexes, levels, and vocations in the same era. Costume's analistic body was the costume's form selected according to the central analystic elements, this showed the meaning of the era's levels and classes, that is, the costume's structure was reflected by the era's features. In the structure of the woman's costume in the Romanesque era, many religious features were emphasized and the elements forming each analystic body were classified and meant the society's features. (Korean J Human Ecology l(1) : 113∼125, 1998)

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The Mevelana sect is a spiritual Islamic group experiencing spiritual transaction with their god through a peculiar dancing as a form of religious ritual. The Mevelana, a sect of Islamic Sufism, has their head mosque in Konya in Turkey. Although Mevelana sect is regarded as heretic of Islam, it has exerted considerable influence on the Islamic religion through its peculiar religious worshiping form constituted in dancing and reciting poems. Nowadays, Turkey recognizes the Mevelana dancing as their precious cultural legacy of a long history, exerting public information efforts to give it for wider publicity of Turkey to the world. The Mevelana dress with ornament attired for the ritual dancing performance is regarded to symbolize a spiritual medium, which leads to conciliation with the eternity. The straight lines and curved line characteristic of the Mevelana dancer's trousers, skirt, jacket and such mirrors the image of the Orientals, which is in peculiar contrast with the white and gray colors of the dress with ornament. The impression of the spiritual Mevelana dressing in harmony with the dynamic dancing motion goes beyond mere a religious dressing. It is expressive of a graceful and sophisticated modern formative art, of which the mystic design gives an inspiration to the modern fashion. After Poiret, Islamic factors have emerged in the modern fashion. For instance, a hat with Arabic fashion lapel, a Fez hat of Turkish style, harem pants and such are still popular in the modern fashion. It seems probable that the Iraq War would far more activate the influence of Arabic culture to the modern fashion. By making an analysis on the religious background and formative characteristics of the Mevelana dressing, and by giving design examples on how the Mevelanan dressing has been applied to the modern fashion, this research suggests working out new designs by making a renewed application of their characteristics to the modern fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.160-177
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• 2002

Wedding ceremony is a most basic and significant rite of religion. Clothing fur the ceremony is also assumed religious in essence. Thus this study focuses on ideas and religious qualities implied in wedding dresses for women in the latter period of Chosen. Among those wedding dresses for women in the public class, in this study, Yeom-Eui(염의), Won-Sam(원삼) in green and Hwal-Ot(활옷) are discussed. Yeom-Eui seemed preferred by only some of the nobel class who still considered manners and customs as very important. The rest people often wore a brilliant Hwal-Ot rather than Yeom-Eui under influences of a loosened social position system and sumptuous moods. Since a wedding is the reflection of social condition and at the same time a religious rite, the above mentioned difference in wedding dresses between the class of scholars obsessed with Confucianism and the rest public seems attributable to differences in values and religious views between the two groups. Of course, Hwal-Ot was also transmitted from the Chinese nation of Tang, so it complied with a contemporary flunkeyism about Chinese culture. Won-Sam and Hwal-Ot were designed with patterns representing the very significance of wedding and those wishing worldly blessings more children and more sons, longevity and wealth and prosperity. The fact that wishes of more children and more sons were more often implied by patterns of wedding dress in the latter Chosen indicates the legitimate oldest son-oriented patriarchical family system at that time influenced to such contemporary dresses. Meanwhile, those patterns used for Won-Sam and Hawl-Ot were influenced mainly by Confucianism, but sometimes based on Buddhism and Taoism. It suggests that the Chosun dynasty emphasized Confucian manners and customs to restore previous values which had been about to be collapsed since wars with the Chinese Ching and Japan, but nevertheless in the public class, Buddhism and Taoism were more deeply prevailed. This was supported by patterns and colors shown in wedding clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.36 no.10
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• pp.119-130
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• 1998

This is on the dance costume of ancient Greece. The present study classified the characteristics of Greek dance and dance costume according to the silhouette, quality of material, color and ornaments. Materials of the study are the pictures and figures presented in literatures, sculptures, crockeries, murals, coins. The dances of Greece can be classified into religious dance, educational dance, recreational dance, dramatic dance and various forms of dance on each dances were developed. Especially, it is the greatest character that Greeks gave dances educational value and created composit art including song, lines and dance. As dance costume, Himation, Chiton, Chlamys which Greeks generally wore were widely worn. Also, the beauty of dance costume was maximized by the changes of basic costumes and development of various ways of wearing. Especially, professional dancers wore costumes shorter than knee-length ones forming a A-line silhouette different from a cylindrical one. Thin cloth revealing body silhouette such as fiax hemp, linen, silk were used as materials of dance costumes. As for colors, white was mainly used, But orange, blue and green were used, too. They wore band, scarf, bonnet on the head and seldom used any ornaments except for fibula. They wore the same sandals which Greeks wore, Crepis, front-heeled shoes which is thought to be the origin of modern ballet shoes for the technique of toe in dance. As mentioned above, as the dance costume of Greece were mainly worn as the similar forms of the dance costume of Greeks, various forms of costumes were worn with the development of dance and bold ways of wearing and silhouette were developed unlike the costume of common people.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.71-75
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• 1998

The Miaos who is the minority people mainly living in the southwestern part of China, expressed their indicator and solidarity through the costume in order to maintain their racial character while experiencing numerous adversities over thousands of years, where the costume has served as a source of cohesion as well as a primitive religious thought, and also showed their faith, desire, longing and aspiration. This study examined the Miao's traditional costume by classifying it into the following; hair style, headdress, upper and lower garments, and other costume. And the silver ornaments used for attire and their symbolic meaning were examined. The result of the study is summarized as follows. 1. The reason that types of the costume has been diversified is because there was promise of ancestors who intended to differently express the type of a kind as symbol of the racial branch that is the Miao's special type of society. Thus, the costume type could tell where a tribe live. Another reason is because only marriage between families with different surname but the same type of costume was accepted. 2. As women made and wore the costume themselves, it also served as a means of being proud of their skill or wealth, they tried to make it more beautiful and it was also used as a token of marriage or love between relatively enlightened men and women. 3. The design used on the costume was expressed as a symbolic meaning of indicator to strengthen the racial solidarity because it connoted worship to ancestors who had experienced lots of adversities. 4. The hair style was expressed in various styles by using Kache such as Chukye, Byunbal and Kokye. It is likely that ornaments used on the head of women in the form of cow's horn or silver crown were used as one of the methods to stress the valuableness of the cattle that were essential to agricultural life. In addition, various styles of turbans were used to indicate the respective regions. 5. Cock's feather ornaments or silver ornaments in the form of pheasant's feather on the edge of women's skirts, peasant's feathers that men wore on their head, or Baekjoui and men wore resulted from the Miaos' thought of adoration for birds, which implied a primitive religious meaning. 6. As the region where the Miaos live yields much silver, the silver ornaments were mostly used to be proud of wealth, which symbolized light and pureness.