• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.67-72
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• 2009

To investigate the strong and effective sericin fixing agents and conditions, raw silk fibers were treated with the mixtures of urea-formalin, thiourea-formalin and melamine-formalin as sericin fixing agents, respectively. And the treated raw silk fibers were degummed by the degumming liquors of alkaline detergent and sodium carbonate to confirm the hardness of sericin fixation. The weight of raw silk fibers was decreased in the process of sericin fixation treating at 80$^{\circ}C$ for 60min. The effective sericin fixation was obtained by treating at $60{\sim}80^{\circ}C$ for 15min with the mixture of melamine and formalin. The mixture of melamine and formalin showed an outstanding ability of sericin fixation because the three amino groups of melamine were able to cross-link the hydroxy amino acids of sericin such as serine with the assistance of formalin.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.412-417
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• 2009

실크 생사의 세리신 정착을 보다 효과적으로 하기위해 멜라민과 포르말린의 혼합액에 각종 첨가제를 첨가했을 때 첨가제가 세리신 정착에 미치는 영향을 살펴보았다. 멜라민과 포르말린의 혼합액으로 세리신을 정착할 때 수분침투 기능이 있는 계면활성제로 전처리라고 수세하지 않은 경우 견고한 정착이 이루어졌고, 정착액에 과산화수소를 첨가한 경우 정착 효과가 크게 떨어지면서 단사 간에 접착하는 문제가 발생했고, 하이드로를 첨가하여 $60^{\circ}C$에서 정착하는 경우에는 표백과 동시에 세리신 정착이 가능함을 확인했다. 낮은 농도의 수산화나트륨을 첨가한 알칼리 조건에서 멜라민을 추가함으로써 매우 견고한 세리신 정착 결과를 얻었으나 염산과 메탄을 추가는 정착에 그다지 효과적이지 못했고, 염화마그네슘 추가는 오히려 세리신 정착 견고성을 크게 저하시켰다.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.19-24
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• 2014

Silk has always been one of the most favored textile materials. Fully degummed silk fiber (i.e., silk fibers without sericin) shows better luster than raw silk fiber (with sericin); it is also softer. On the other hand, raw silk fiber feels cooler because of the presence of sericin, making it useful as a textile for the summer season. Recently, partially degummed silk has attracted researchers' attention because it provides better luster, feel, and dyeing properties. However, the partial degumming of silk is very difficult because it results in inhomogeneously degummed fiber. In the present study, silk yarns were degummed with surfactant aqueous solutions and the effects of each surfactant on the degumming ratio, crystallinity, and homogeneity of the degummed silk yarn were examined. The degumming ratio and crystallinity index of silk yarn varied depending on the type of surfactant. On the whole, anionic surfactants resulted in higher degumming ratios and better homogeneity than nonionic surfactants.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.54-60
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• 2013

The partial degumming of silk has recently attracted researchers' attention because of its ability to produce silk textiles with new tactile properties, intermediate between the softness of fully degummed silk and the hardness of raw silk. However, it is difficult to obtain partially degummed silk in a homogenously degummed state due to the heterogeneous character of sericin removal. It is also difficult to examine the homogeneity of degumming. In the present study, Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy with attenuated total reflection (ATR) geometry was used to evaluate the effect of processing conditions on the degumming of silk yarns. The crystallinity index, calculated from FTIR spectra, showed an increase with the degumming ratio. Therefore, the homogeneity of degumming could be evaluated by the variation of crystallinity index for 30 different spots in silk yarns. The homogeneity of degumming was influenced by the total degumming time, the content of surfactant, and the liquor rate. No effect was observed upon changing the number of degumming cycles at the same total degumming time.

• Applied Microscopy
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• 제50권
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• pp.16.1-16.11
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• 2020

Silk is produced by a variety of insects, but only silk made by terrestrial arthropods has been examined in detail. To fill the gap, this study was designed to understand the silk spinning system of aquatic insect. The larvae of caddis flies, Hydatophylax nigrovittatus produce silk through a pair of labial silk glands and use raw silk to protect themselves in the aquatic environment. The result of this study clearly shows that although silk fibers are made under aquatic conditions, the cellular silk production system is quite similar to that of terrestrial arthropods. Typically, silk production in caddisworm has been achieved by two independent processes in the silk glands. This includes the synthesis of silk fibroin in the posterior region, the production of adhesive glycoproteins in the anterior region, which are ultimately accumulated into functional silk dope and converted to a silk ribbon coated with gluey substances. At the cellular level, each substance of fibroin and glycoprotein is specifically synthesized at different locations, and then transported from the rough ER to the Golgi apparatus as transport vesicles, respectively. Thereafter, the secretory vesicles gradually increase in size by vesicular fusion, forming larger secretory granules containing specific proteins. It was found that these granules eventually migrate to the apical membrane and are exocytosed into the lumen by a mechanism of merocrine secretion.

• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.163-175
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• 2007

This study examines 74 pieces of textiles of Daegaya found in the Jeesan-dong Tomb and Saeng-cho Tomb, and analyzes their characteristics and weaving techniques. Dagaya is known to have produced ramie and hemp from bast fibers. The hemp textiles were all woven in plain weave, and the ramie textiles were woven either in plain weave or plain braid. The ramie textiles were slightly more dense compared to the hemp textiles, however, both had average densities between 0.92 to 0.93, showing that they are balanced plain weave textiles. It was also found that S twist threads were used in the production of the hemp and ramie textiles. The dyed textiles on iron remains were found to be the oldest textiles to use dying techniques for patterns. Silk textiles were woven in plain weave, twill weave, and leno weave. All of the silk were made with non-twisted thread. The densities were between 30 to 58.3 and the the density rates were 1.0 to 2.5 for plain weave silk, this showed that varieties of plain weaver created by different densities of warp and well. The average density of cho was $53.4{\times}22.5/cm^2$ the density rate was about 2.40, therefore warp was woven more dense compared to the weft. There were degummed and raw silk used in silk textiles, but most of them were found to be degummed thread.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.52-59
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• 1993

비누 정련 견사와 효소 정련 견사의 결정 구조는 정련 구조 중 처리온도의 차이에 의하여 효소 정련 견사의 결정성이 비누 견사의 결정성 보다 높다고 전보(김·남, 1992)에서 보고하였는데 이와같은 정련 견사의 결정성의 차이가 정련 견사를 열처리를 하였을 때 어떻게 변화하는지를 밝히기 위하여 두가지 방법으로 정련한 견사에 대하여 습열 처리와 동결 처리한 후 특성을 분석한 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 정련 견사를 습열 처리한 경우 강력과 신도는 모두 저하되었으며 비누 정련 견사는 습열 처리온도의 상승과 함께 열 분해 온도도 고온측으로 이동하고 IR crystallinity도 증가하였으나 효소 정련 견사는 습열 처리에 의하여 열 분해 온도와 IR crystallinity의 큰 변화가 없었다. 이와 같은 결정 구조의 차이는 비누 정련 견사는 습열 처리로 재배향 결정화가 일어나 결정화도는 증가되었으나 효소 정련 견사는 습열 처리에 의한 재배향 결정화보다 습열 처리에 의하여 팽윤되어 수축하는 과정에서 배향성이 저하되기 때문에 결정성은 더 이상 증가되지 않은 것으로 추측된다. 2. 정련 견사를 동결 처리하였을 때 강력과 신도는 약간씩 감소하는 경향이었으나 열 분해 온도와 IR crystallinity는 비누 정련 견사와 효소 정련 견사 모두 큰 변화가 없었다.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.47-55
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• 1981

絹織物加工을 實需要者의 利用度를 增加시키기 爲해 多年間 여러 사람에 의하여 硏究되어 왔으나 天然織維이기 때문에 加工方式으로 性質을 變化시키기는 어려워서 滿足스러운 精度로 이루어지지 못하고 있는 實情에 있다. 絹織物加工은 勿論 그 缺點을 補强하는 同時에 商品的價値도 向上시키는데 目的이 있는데 때로는 有名商標가 品質以上으로 販賣를 左右하는 例도 많다. 特히 絹制品은 歡迎을 받지 못하고 있는 實情에 있다. 이러한 問題點을 解決하기 爲해 筆者는 多年間 硏究를 持績하여 왔든바 一般絹織物의 浸潤後 乾燥時間보다 半減된 時間에 乾燥되는 所謂 Wash and Wear絹加工方法의 開發을 하기에 이르렀다. 그리고 그 加工費用이 極히 經濟性인 탓으로 아무런 부담감 없이 加工處理할 수 있는 特徵을 갖이고 있었다. 1. 繭絲는 吐絲營繭曲線이 S字型으로 되어 있어 浸潤時에는 原狀復舊의 性質이 있어 屈曲狀態를 이룩하게 되어 本加工絹織物이 Wash and Wear이기는 하나 가벼운 다림질이 必要하였다. 2. 이러한 加工은 絹絲蛋白質의 變性을 加工過程에서 1% D.I.S.溶液에 3時間 處理하여 變性誘發시킴으로서 可能하였다. 3. 加工絹의 防皺度, 剛乾度를 洗濯回數를 反復하면서 調査하여 본 結果 未處理絹보다 惡化되지 않았다. 4. 未加工絹도 水洗, 乾燥를 反復하게되면 스스로 變性되는 事實을 알았다. 5. 處理絹과 未處理絹의 强力伸度面의 差異가 없었다.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.15-23
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• 1978

본 연구는 견직물의 촉감을 손상시키지 않는 범위에서 바람직한 방추성을 보유하는 보다 좋은 요소수지가 공법을 개발하기 위하여 수년간에 걸친 보고이다. 특히 본보고는 요소와 결합하는 폴마린양을 극소화한데 특징이 있고 일반요소수지보다도 더욱 우수성을 보이는 반금속성요소수지(Homo Metalic Urea Resin)을 개발하였다는 사실도 첨가하며 본연구에서 얻어진 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 본보고에 수록된 요소수지조성은 폴마린함량을 극소화하였고 조성된 수지에서 거의 폴마린냄새를 인정할 수 없을 정도였으며 이전에 보고된 어느 것보다 가장 소량의 폴마린으로 요소수지를 만들었다. 2. 필자가 최초로 만든 화합물 즉 uric zincchloride와 폴마린을 원료로 하여 새로운 반금속성요소수지(Homo Metalic Urea Resin)를 개발하였다. 이 방법은 합성수지처리와 중앙처리를 동시에 할 수 있는 특징이 있다. 3. 위의 두가지 수지처리에서 방추도, 강연도 및 발키네스 등이 증가되었는데 신규개발한 수지가 더욱 좋은 결과를 보였다. 4. 견방사나 저연사견직물이 생사나 고연사손직물의 경우보다 좋은 방추개선을 보였다. 5. 두가지 수지처리법이 모두 실용상의 경제성이 좋았다. 6. 강력과 신도가 수지처리후 다소 저하되었는데 이것은 수지처리로 가교작용과 증량작용이 일어났기 때문이었다. 7. 특수한 요소수지처리방법으로 양모와 유사한 견사제조법도 개발했다. 이 방법은 요소용액에 침지한 생사를 폴마린가스로 충만된 밀실에 방치해 둠으로서 생사표면에 스케일을 발생하게 한 것이다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.754-764
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• 2010

Most silk fabrics are produced only after the degumming process to make the best use of the properties and have restricted silk processing that do not hinder their performance. However, considering the highly increased preference for natural fibers and the shortage of raw silk, high-quality upgraded silk product functions are required by the development of a processing technology and a good design. This study analyzes the changes with the samples by the functional finish such as softening finishing, wash and wear, tannin weighting by measuring the objective hand of scoured silk and three finished ones using KES-FB. As a result, the change of objective hand of finished silk fabrics that improves functionality was analyzed and compared. The increase of KOSHI after the finish became stiffer show that the silk fabric samples are appropriate for summertime clothes with the retention of a certain clothing climate for the body. The stiffness of finished fabrics for the normal had a closer relationship with the density of fabrics than the type of finishing. The samples (after the softening finishes) maintain better elasticity according to the properties of the softener and the finishing agent. Although the specimens of this study were thin fabrics, their elasticity against compression increased after the softening finishes and became softer than degummed silk. The surface properties of georgette were changed by all types of finishing.