• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.2 no.1 s.1
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• pp.103-109
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• 2004

It surveyed consumers between 20s and 60s to understand how often they wear ramie clothes and what they are dissatisfied with wearing ramie clothes. First, people who are older than 50 have more ramie clothes than people who are younger than 50. They purchased ramie clothes at a store of Korean traditional costumes(35.1%) and special sales shops including departments(33.8%). People older than 50 washed ramie clothes with hands in their houses. But people younger than 40 washed their ramie clothes in a laundry. Third, it surveyed what was their dissatisfaction with ramie clothes. They responded that the type and design is limited.(44.4%) There isn't a design for young people.(33.3%) In the survey of color and patterns, they responded that the colors are not classified for people of different ages.(57.7%) The others complained that the patterns are not enough.(22.5%) They are dissatisfied with ramie clothes as it is easy to have wrinkle and it isn't elastic.(66.7%) Fourth, it surveyed the tendency to purchase ramie clothes based on different four factors. The factor 1 is the tendency to have good quality. Factor 2 is the tendency of reluctant purchasing. Factor 3 is the tendency of variety of distribution routes. Factor 4 is the tendency of design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1315-1322
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• 1997

Ramie is one of the traditional fabrics in Korea, and very comfortable fabric for summer clothes because it has a high moisture-absorbing and transporting property. Futhermore ramie is very popular and Koreans prefer its handle for summer clothes. The kansan ramie has better quality as fibers and can be weaved as fine fabrics which are famous as kansan Fine ramie. Even though the good quality of kansan ramie has known widely, very few research work have been carried out on kansan ramie in the field of textile science. In this study, the analysis of the physical and chemical characteristics of Hansan ramie was conducted by using two different kinds of Hansan ramie: Hansan Fine ramie and kansan Coarse ramie. In addition, the same experiment was held on the one kind of chinese ramie to be compared with those of Hansan ramie. The following results were obtained from this experimental study. By the analysis of chemical composition of ramie, the similar chemical composition (a -cellulose: 83∼85%, pectin substances: 2.81∼ 3.01%) were found from all of the ramie fabrics used in this study. It has shown that Hansan coarse ramie has the highest toughness value and wrinkle recovery angle among the samples used in this study. From the result of KES-F system, it was found that Hansan Coarse ramie which is composed with the thicker yarns has the highest value on the bending properties, 2HG and surface properties. The primary hand value was also calculated by KN-203 LDY and value of Koshi was shown as the order of kansan coarse ramie> Chinese ramie> kansan fine ramie, and Hansan fine ramie had shown the highest Numeri and Fukurami value among the 3 samples used in this study.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.455-467
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in classical novel 'Shimchungjun' focusing on the woman's costume through the antique records and tombs bequests. Titled ladies for royal family put on 'Wooimkyoryong' and 'Sungun' as a petticoat when the ladies of Song period rode on horses. The underskirt played a part to swell a skirt for ladies. 'Bakjueui' and 'Hwangsangi' were ordinary clothes ranging from ladies of loyal family to women. The red color was limited to royal family. The ordinary clothes of women were white ramie clothes commonly and floral patterned clothes were prohibited to the ordinary clothes for women. 'Ko', a breast-tie (breast ribbon) of a Korean coat, was made of silk and women wear as an outer garment. The common people will wear 'Ko' of white ramie clothes which was very active items. The ladies of royal family and women put on shoes made of white ramie clothes, but the full dress of queen wore blue boots made of leather. The noble women wore 'Suk'(boots) made of deer skin and common people wore straw shoes regardless of gender and age. Sometimes they wore 'Woopihye' made of cowhide. In the first of Koryo era, the styles of dress were consisted of 'Monso', 'Eui', 'Po', 'Dae', 'Koh', 'Sang', 'Sungkun' and 'Kangnang'. The structure of costume for women made little difference and there was a great difference with decoration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.25-39
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to look into dressing practices at the Woinarodo region in terms of ordinary and ritual clothes. Men wore Bqji(trousers) and Jeokori(jackets) as their plain clothes and sometimes Jangsam mid Durumaki(topcoat). During the period of Japanese colony, men wore Western-style clothes. For women it was basic to wear Chima(skirts) and Jeokori. And they preferred Momppe rather when in Japanese rule. In arrangements for their head, men put on gut, and had their hair cut during Japanese nile. Women laid a bundle of their braided hairs on the head or braided their hair, while married women did their hair up in a chignon during the ruling period People of the region put on straw and leather shoes, and then rubber ones since the late 1930s. Hand weaving was a major means of living for women at the region. Ramie, hemp and cotton were mainly weaved by hand. Starching was applied mainly to ramie and cotton. Glues for starching were made of raw rices, cooked rices, wheat flour or gloiopeltis tenax. For ritual clothes, especially in wedding, bridegrooms arranged themselves with Samokwandae and then Put on Baji, Jeokori, Durumaki and Danryung. But they Put on Western-style dresses as the liners of Danryung, and wear Nambawi Rather than the Samo after korean independence from Japanese rule. Bridges wore Chima, Jeokori and Wonsam and Chokdoori and covered their face with Hansam Wonsam did not be worn any longer after Korean independence from the rule. Shrouds for funeral ceremony were manufactured with silks, cotton and hemp, when the chief mourner wore hempen hoods and funeral robes, while women, Chima, made of hemp. and any type of Jeokori.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.8
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• pp.1194-1205
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• 1999

The hand characteristics of bast blended fabrics are studied by a subective evaluation method. To offer basic data for development of better hand of bast fiber fabrics customer's hand preference surveys are executed as well. IN this study 51 varieties of linen or ramie blended fabrics of various blending ratio density and thickness and Hansan ramie Chinese ramie and a Shingosen fabics of various blending ratio density and thickness and Hansan ramie Chinese ramie and a Shingosen farbic and used. To evaluate the hand of the fabrics subjectively nine ranks' semantic differential scale questions of 26 items are developed with adjective pairs. A seven ranks' scale is also developed to evaluate hand preferences in blouse and jacket cloths, Through subjective evaluation of bast blended fabrics the 26 items could be classified into seven kinds of hand classification : surface characteristics extensibility/drapability felling of heaviness stiffness resilience moisture property and feeling of density. The cumulative variance value explained by these seven factors is 67.18% According to the results of fabrics' preference by age groups no significant differences are found in blouse cloths but a few significant differences are found among different age groups in jacket clothes. However experts and non-experts show considerable differences on preference It can be concluded that fabrics' preference I more dependent on professionality than on age. In the survey experts. However more drapery cloths are preferred by experts and cloths with drier touch are preferred by non-experts. Experts prefer rougher less even less winding heavier and sparser fabrics but non-experts prefer rougher lighter thinner and stiffer fabrics as jacket cloths.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.27-38
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• 1985

In KOREA, the history of weaving is so long even in prinitive, there are the traces of fabric emmision using Spindle already in the Neolithic age. And coming up to the period of Three States, becoming active of cultivation of fibers, it can be known the variety of kinds and the production of fine products by improvement of new method of weaving using weaving machine. In the period of shilla state, there is a record of making the fine fabrics with 28 bracts. But wearing of silks fabrics was limitted for only the nobility and common people were wearing native thick hemp clothes. Also in the period of Korea state, they were wearing the hemp clothes by cultivation of hemp. The good quality products were worn by the King or the nobility and women in KOREA made their best with whole efforts to pay to the authorities with woven products of hemp clothes, so in the 14th year of King Chung- Ryul, King prohibited the presentation of fine hemp clothes by his order. By the end of KOREA state, before the production, common people was mainly wearing the hemp clothes. Coming up to the Kingdom of Chosun the sericulture was promoted by establishment of the sericulture encouraging low. Therefore the working hours of women were highly increased. The products of Song-do, Chin-ju for cotton clothes, those of Han-san-the same now as in old times-for ramie clothes, those of Han-Kyung province and An-dong for hemp fabrics were estimated as the best qualities. And the hemp clothes of Kang-won province is not so fine but is very useful and famous for mourning clothes and summer clothes for the farmer. It is true that our history of weaving was begun with hemp as a continous and precious friend of common people during all the historical periods-even though for a while it went backward because of chinese silks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.23-31
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• 2003

The Purpose of this study was to isolate and identify fungi found in excavated clothes dating on the 16th century. As a result of microscoping with LPCB staining, seven isolated strains were classified-Acremonium strictum, Acremonium kiliense, Fonsecaea sp., Candida sp., Trichoderma sp., Cladosporium spp., Penicillium spp.. In the process of isolation and identification of fungi by the sort of textile, more fungi were found in cotton, cotton batt and silk than in ramie and hemp, suggesting that hemp has antibacterial characteristics due to the presence of lignin. In the Comparison washed samples with unwashed ones, there were more kinds of fungi in washed samples. In the cellulase activity test, Acremonium kiliense had the highest level cellulase activity, suggesting that Acremonium killiense has an important Influence on damage of textiles.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.14
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• pp.94-108
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• 1993

The cultural properties of cloth are of animal orgin (silk), or of vegetable orgin(cotton, hemp, ramie). As clothes are of an orginic material, they were subjected to damage by chemical, phisigical or biological factors, viz, moulds insects, lights, humidity and temperature changes, etc. And these factors promote that clothes generally result from various types of deterioration. In 1992, We were performed the conservation treatments for total 9 pieces of cloth, such as 3 pieces of General PAK SHIN-RYONG(Important Folklore Material No.110) 3 pieces of Madam Jung(Important Folklore Material No.115) and 1 piece of King Se-jo(Important Folklore Material No.219). The procedure of the conservation treatment for clothes describe the following below. 1) The washing and dry-cleaning to remove the contaminated substances from cloth was used 0.2% stearyl potassium soap solution and the mixture solution compound of n-Hexane, C6H14. and n-Decane, C10H22. And after the washing and dry-cleaning, the dry of clothes was carried out in a warm condition. These steps were repeated in 2 times over for each cloth. 2) The repair of clothes was attached the similar textiles to stronger fabric linings by needlework.3) The reprodution was made for cloth of King Se-jo to equalize the type, color, quality and skill of materials. 4) After these above procedures, all clothes fumigated to prevent the biodeterioration by using the mixed gas of methyl bromide and ethylene oxide as insecticide and fungicide. 5) Finally for the purpose to keep in a safety long-term condition, the treated clothes sealed with Biaxially Oriented Polyvinylacohol Film(BO-PVA film) and Helium, purity 99.999%, filled up in sealed BO-PVA film bag.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.70-74
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• 2005

This study was aimed to isolation and identification of attached bacteria on the clothes excavated from Deajeon area dating on the 16th century. From the observation with colony shape, 17 bacterial strains were isolated, and then 7 bacterial strains were identified with morphological and biochemical characteristics. Streptococcus sp., Alcaligenes faecalis, Gemella sp., Acinetobacter sp., Pseudomonas vesicularis, Aeromonas sain. salmonicida, Moraxella spp. In observation of the bacterial strains by the sort of textile, more bacterial strains were found in silk, cotton, and cotton batt than in ramie and hemp. It is suggest that hemp has antibacterial characteristics due to the presence of lignin. In the comparison washed samples with unwashed ones, there were more kinds of bacterial strains in washed samples. In the cellulase activity tests, all isolated bacteria had low level cellulase activity.