• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.11 no.1
• /
• pp.136-148
• /
• 2007

African marigold is a common plant easily available in many flower beds. It has been reported as a practical and prospective resource of dyes since the dyes can be extracted from their bodies as well as petals. In this research, cotton and ramie fabrics which are made from natural cellulose were dyed using the extract of the African Marigold which is a variety of marigold. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants. Dyeability was evaluated by examining and measuring surface color, K/S value, and the changes in the maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. For the dyeing with marigold extract, the color tone did not differ by pre-mordanting and non-mordanting. Reaction with post-mordanting was excellent, which was colored in various yellow series. The best dyeability was achieved in dye solution of pH 6.5-7.0 which is not conditioned. The largest K/S value and color difference were obtained in tin mordanting. The dye uptake was greatly increased in chitosan pre-treated mordanting compared with the post-mordanting without chitosan pre-treatment. Due to its high heat resistance, African Marigold extract is easy for dye extraction and dyeing, and its dyeability is excellent for natural cellulose fibers. Also, colorfastness was proved to be practically usable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.2
• /
• pp.256-265
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to check color change, color fastness, increase wt., antibiosis, and UV-protection efficiency depending on gallnut concentrations and mordanting methods, when silk fabrics dye with gromwell according to pH. This results will contribute in developing of natural mordant with multi function. The results are as follows. ${\lambda}_{max}$ of Gallnut extracts was near 299 nm. When gallnut was used as a mordant, at all pH levels, pre-mordanted fabrics had red color and post-mordanted ones had red-purple color which was closed to natural color of gromwell. Brightness of post-mordanted fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted fabrics. In the case of chroma, pre-mordanted fabrics was higher than post-mordanted fabrics. There was no significant difference of color, brightness, and chroma depending on gallnut concentration. As mordanting concentration increased, fabric weight gradually went up and increase weight reached maximum $17{\sim}19%$. At all pH levels, color fastness improved by pre-mordanting and post-mordanting, and it showed the maximum $4{\sim}5$ grade of wet fastness and 5 grade of dry cleaning. Antibiosis of silk fabric was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting. Antibiosis of gallnut extracts was excellent. The color fastness and antibiosis were preserved after 10 cycle dry cleaning. UV-protection efficiency was excellent by dyeing with gromwell and mordanting with gallnut.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.15 no.4
• /
• pp.182-189
• /
• 2011

Dyeing properties of cow leather was investigated with Tumeric powder. The effects of dyeing conditions, mordanting conditions, color change, and color fastnesses were studied. The results were as follows. The dye uptake increased as dye concentration, dyeing temperature, and bath ratio increased. In the effect of dyeing time, the highest dye uptakes showed at 20 minutes and decreased after that point. Pre mordanting was more effective than the post mordanting, and the dye uptakes improved all mordanted fabrics. The highest K/S values showed in pre-Al sample, and the lowest K/S values showed in post-Cu one. The values of Hunter on the samples were more changeable $L^*$ and $b^*$ than $a^*$, and all samples showed Yellow color in Munsell value. But the mordanting methods and mordanting agents were not significant in the color changes. The light fastness of dyed samples showed 1 grade, the dry cleaning and abrasion fastnesses did not improved except post-Fe wet sample.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.5 s.58
• /
• pp.686-698
• /
• 2005

In this study, simultaneous mordanting method of dyeing in the Caesalpinia sappan dye liquor mixed with the rice straw ash solution was employed. The dyeing effects were compared and reviewed according to the changes of dyeing mechanisms of pre-mordanting and simultaneous mordanting using ash solutions. By the direct addition of the ash solution, the pH of the liquor was abruptly changed. In the case of maintaining the pH value of the ash solution at about 7 or 8, compared to the pre-mordanting, $a^{*}$ values increased and $b^{*}$ values decreased. As a result, it is highly desirable in terms of selective emphasis on the reddish hue. The color development, differentiated from that obtainable by the dyeing of chitosan pre-treated fabric, was obtained due to the effect of the water soluble chitosan component on the dyeing mechanism.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2006

Treatment of PET fabrics with alkali, chitosan and Al-mordanting has been carried out and the role of the chitosan coating in the dyeing process was clarified. The pre-treatment was effectively evaluated differences in dyeing behavior between its treated and untreated PET fabrics using wood of Caesalpinia sappan. The pre-treated on PET fabrics has been examined by SEM and evidence for the presence of chitosan sought using a air permeability test. Similar colour fastness by computer color matching(CCM) obtained on both untreated and pre-treated PET fabrics. The pre-treated PET was found to be of a deeper hue to that of its dyed untreated PET and, despite of its better colour depth, the wash fastness of the pre-treated dyeing was comparable to that of its dyed untreated PR. The application of chitosan or mordanting reveled that pre-treatment imparted to the PET additional functional groups that were available for coordination with the Brazilin.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.22 no.6
• /
• pp.890-898
• /
• 2014

This study focuses on the effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting conditions, changes of colorfastness, antibacterial properties and UV protective of silk fabric dyed with Laminaria japonica extracts. A natural colorant was extracted from Laminaria japonica using distilled water as extractants. According to the results, maximum dye uptake (K/S) were obtained at 100% V/V colorant concentration, $80^{\circ}C$, 60 min and pH 2. Silk fabric was dyed with Laminaria japonica extract at $80^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with pre-treatment or post-treatment of various metal salts as mordants. The Laminaria japonica extracts produced yellow hue on silk fabric in pre-mordanting and manifested green yellow hue mordanted with $CuSO_4$ in post-mordanting method. Mordant $CuSO_4$ for silk fabric was found to give good light fastness (rating 4). UV protection property did not increase significantly upon mordanting.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.9 no.6
• /
• pp.33-41
• /
• 1997

This paper surveys the extraction condition of polygenetic natural dye, Sappan Wood and the effect of ash to the dyeability and fastness. The appropriate time for extracting Sappon Wood was 1hour. The pH was increased as the amount of ash increase. The pH was nearly invariable according to the time of ash solution, the extracting times and temperature. Absorbance of dyeing fabrics was about 480nm. From the result of K/S value determination of fabrics, 10g/$\ell$ quantity of ash was surfficient for treatment and the amount of Sappon Wood was in 100% o.w.f.. K/S value of fabrics pre-mordanted or post-mordanted were higher than that of fabrics simultaneous mordanted.K/S value was increased as pH of mordanting bath decrease and pre-mordanting and post-mordanting fabrics increased the amount of absorption (K/S value) compared with non-mordanted fabrics. It was found that pH of mordanting bath affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed fabrics. Light fastness of fabric dyed was very poor and the fastness of fabric dyed was not influenced by the mordanting conditions and methods.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.42 no.7
• /
• pp.63-72
• /
• 2004

This study discussed the dyeing of wool and cotton fabrics with Betel Palm Tree White woolen fabrics and cotton fabrics purchased from HATH (Korea Apparel Testing ＆ Research Institute) were used as experimental fabrics. Using dyeing powder extracted from dyeing material, various temperatures, dyeing times, and pH were used in the dyeing process. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu, and Sn were used as mordant and the absorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The optimum condition for pre-mordanting dyeing was dye concentration of 25% (o.w.f) and mordant concentration of 0.5$^{\circ}$∼1%. Woolen fabric showed an increase of absorption and the maximum absorption was achieved at weak acidity. According to the mordanting methods, woolen fabrics and cotton fabrics were treated with various mordanting agents, a mordant rate of 1:100, at 60$^{\circ}C$, for 30 minutes and dyed with a dyeing material concentration of 25% (o.w.f), at a rate of 1:100, at 60$^{\circ}C$ for 60 minutes. The best dyeing effect w3s achieved at the temperature of 60$^{\circ}C$ for cotton and 80$^{\circ}C$ for wool fabrics. The light fastness of cotton and wool fabrics was low and particularly the fastness to perspiration was decreased with Fe mordanting. I concluded that pre-mordanting method was better than post-mordanting method for cotton and woolen fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.8
• /
• pp.971-977
• /
• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of nautral dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rhusjara ica was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Rhusjara ica were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Rhusjara ica solution was 299 nm. The color of Rhusjara ica solution was affected by pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Rhusjara ica was 6$0^{\circ}C$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 80~10$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30 min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treatment, specially Fe, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. In the case of Rhusjara ica fastness was increased by mordanting treatment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.7 no.5
• /
• pp.83-100
• /
• 2003

It has been known that the chitosan pre-treated fabrics can be dyed without the aid of mordanting process. It is due to the fact that chitosan treatment increases the dye uptake. However, the effect of chitosan on the dyeing mechanism has not been elucidated thus far. Following explanations have been presented regrading the action of the chitosan on the dyeing mechanisms: 1. Chitosan absorbs dyestuffs and facilitates dyeing since the chitosan itself has a good affinity toward dyestuffs. 2. Chitosan acts as a metallic mordant between the fiber molecule and dyestuff. 3. Fiber molecules and chitosan form a coordinate covalent bond. This study aims the quantitative investigation on the effect of the chitosan and the effect of sequence of the mordanting, pre-mordanting or post-mordanting, on the dyeing of the fabrics. Cotton fabrics and acylic fabrics were pre-treated with chitosan before dyeing with cochineal dyestuffs. Method 1: Fabrics were, firstly, mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu, and Fe; mordanted fabrics were, secondly, treated with chitosan; mordanted and chitosan-treated fabrics were, thirdly, dyed. Method 2: Fabrics were, firstly, treated with chitosan; chitosan-treated fabrics were, secondly, mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu, and Fe; these were dyed then. Method 2 gave distinguished specific color development with darker shade. Apart from this, chitosan-treated fabrics yielded darker shade compared to the pre-mordanted fabrics without chitosan-treatment.