• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.459-471
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• 1974

This study was carried out on the thermal transmission on account of variation of weaves and researched on the selection of the most suitable weaves for warmth. Also the interrelation among the density, thickness and thermal transmission by different weaves was studied, the author has woven three fundamental weaves, five weaves derived from the fundamental weaves and two special weaves for the purpose of experiment. In weaving of fabrics for experiments the lever type hand loom was used. Testing of texture was carried out according to KS and ASTM. The thermal transmission was also tested by as cooling method which were developed by the author. The conclusions of experiments were as follows. 1. Matt weaves, honey comb weaves and satin weaves having long floating yarns have large cover factor and were thicker. these structures of the weaves were good in warmth. 2. Thermal transmission was reciprocated to the cover factor, thickness and value of cover factor multiplied by thickness : It was found that the weaves of woven fabrics for warmth had better use of satin weaves, Matt weaves, Granite weaves and Honey comb weaves. In the time of warmth is not the first purpose, had better use of Rib weaves. Plain weaves and Twill weaves with thin thickness and high thermal transmission.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 1985

To determine the change of the mechanical properties of the wool/polyester blend fabrics in proportion to blend ratio, 10 mechanical properties were measured on 6 blend fabrics by KES-F system. Blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics was increased by $20\%$, and the structure of the fabric were plain, 2/2 twill, respectively. And wearing performances in propoetion to blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics were investigated. In this experiment. the following conclusions were obtained with the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 1) The values of WT, RT in tensile properties. tensile energy and elongation, and RC in compressional properties were decreased. 2) The values of B, 2HB in bending properties, 2HG. 2HG 5 in shearing properties were increased. 3) Putting on clothes, wearing performance was bad because crumbling of shape and wrinkle were easily made an appearance. Particularly it was remarkably bad as blend ratio of polyester was expressed $60\%$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.565-574
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• 1998

The purpose of the study was to determine the effect of air velocity on the thermal resistance of wool ensembles. Three suits for men with different weaving structure and density were made with the same design and size for the study. In addition, Y-shirt, underwear, and socks were prepared for constructing the ensembles. Thermal insulation of air layer and 3 ensembles were measured by using thermal manikin in environmental chamber controlled at 2$0^{\circ}C$ and 65% RH with various air velocity. The results were as follows: 1. Thermal resistance of air layer was 0.079 m2.$^{\circ}C$/W with no air velocity(less than 0.2m/sec). 2. Thermal resistance of air layer decreased with increasing the air velocity rapidly. When the air velocity was 0.25 and 2.89 m/sec, the decreasing rate was 15% and 61%, respectively compared with no air velocity. 3. While there was little difference among the effective thermal insulation of 3 ensembles having different weaving structure and density with no air velocity, there was sharp difference among them when the air velocity increased. That is, the decreasing rate of effective thermal insulation of the ensemble which has higher air permeability was higher. 4. The decreasing rates of the effective thermal resistances of plain, twill and satin ensemble were 61, 54, and 49%, respectively when the air velocity was 2.89 m/sec which was a maximum air velocity in this study.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.82-88
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• 2005

We have investigated the luster of modified cross-sectional fiber fabrics as one of the essential quality estimates for clothing development. We have confirmed an objective evaluation method, and have determined the experimental luster char­acteristics of modified cross-section fibers. The cross-section of the fibers in a fabric affects the appearance of a textile. We used the image analysis method to investigate the luster to determine the critical factors influencing the appearance of modi­fied cross-section fiber fabrics. For similarly structured textiles in a component fabric, clear differences were observed in the fabric weave, density, percentage, and total area of blobs, which is image region. Color played a decisive role in the luster of the textiles, and luster was not significantly influenced by the modified cross-section fabric weave. In addition, the degree of luster did not increase in the order plain to twill to satin for modified cross-sectional fiber fabrics. All the split-type microfi­bers exhibited higher numerical luster values (percentage of pixels, and number and total area of blobs) than sea-island microfibers did. The degree of luster of the modified cross-sectional fiber fabrics was not high at specular reflection angles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.87-100
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• 2004

This study is to understand the types and characteristics of wool fabrics of the Korea. It classifies the types of wool fabrics whose name can be found in the documents by their weaving methods and it researches their characteristics by type, time, usage, and pattern. In Wool fabric of the ancient age were there compound weaving fabric, such as Gyesoo. which is made with embroidery method, Gyegum, which is made with embroidery in gold threads, as well as general fabric, such as plain-weaved Gal, twill-weaved Sagal, gauze-weaved Mosa, Mora, etc. There were also various weaving methods, such pile-weaved Yung, tapestry-weaved Tabdung, or Guyoo, or Dahm, felt-weaved Jeon, etc. It was found in documents that wool fabric such as Gye, Jeon, Dahm were produced in Korea and China. In case of Korea, wool fabric was enormously developed in Koguryo, Shilla, Balhai, United Shilla. Koryo era. Particularly in Koguryo and Balhai, the stock-farming and hunting were the main parts of their occupation. In Koryo era, the weaving technique of wool fabric had made great development. The wool fabric was used not only in clothing but also in official hats, rugs. wall-tapestries, etc.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1061-1074
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• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.493-511
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• 2000

The objective of this study was to trace and to examine costume terminologies recorded in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae. Names of costumes and costume related terms were collected from P마 Tong Sa Eun Hae. Books and various references from China and Korea were used for this study. Costume terms were examined from the Chinese and Korean. Classifications of costume terminologies from the data were made for the analysis : man and woman's costume, accessories, names of fabrics, colors, and decorative motifs used, professional costume, special occasion dresses and so on. Conclusions and summary of results and findings can be summerized as follows : It revealed that manes of man's costume and other costume related words were a large in number compared with those of woman. Only one name of woman's costume appeared in the text : It was kind of long vests. However, names of accessories such as a hat, a hat decorated with jewels and phoenix design, a hair pin, earings, bracelets, finger rings, a soft belt were shown in the text. While many costume names of man included in the text were of garments such as a kind of long vest, a short vest, an outer robe, a kind of long coat with pleated skirt, leg coverings, outer jacket and so on. Also names of undergarments such as an under skirt, a belly covering, and drawers were found in the text. Fabric names were mostly silks such as brocade, twill, sarcenet, damasks and plain silks. Blue was the most widely appeared fabric color in the text and red was the second. Design motifs of fabric design were of dragon, flowers, eight precious things, clouds which were characteristic design motifs of the Chinese. It was found that some of the Chinese costume terminologies were translated into the Korean although many Chinese costume terms were used as the original Chinese.

• Composites Research
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.140-146
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• 2020

The purpose of this paper is to examine the possibility of weight reduction by changing the partition panel of vehicle from an existing aluminum material to carbon fiber reinforced plastics. Three weaving methods (plain, twill and satin) were used in the manufacture of composite materials, and they were produced and tested to derive their material properties. The analysis model of composite partition panel for torsional conditions was developed and the structural stability and system stiffness were evaluated according to Tsai-Hill failure criteria. With design variables for fiber orientation angles and stacking sequence, evolutional optimal algorithm was performed and as the results, the optimal composite partition panel was designed. In addition, the structural analysis results for strength and specific stiffness were compared with aluminum partition panels and composite partition panels to verify the possibility of weight reduction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.