• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.40-44
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• 2004

Fragrance-like style-is one of the intangible aspects of costume history that we often wish had been preserved. Garments were perfumed both to impart a pleasurable impression and to mask disagreeable odors from use or from production processes such as tanning and dyeing. Expensive gloves were traditionally perfumed, as well as lace collars, silk stockings and shawls. Both historical and modern attempts have been made to create scents that please the wearer and attract the oppoiste sex, while (preferable) also repelling osquitoes and moths! Unintentional perfuming also occurred, which we sometimes may be lucky to find in our museum collections. How do we describe and identify the transient odors of museum objects, and at what cost can they be preserved and presented for the public? This lecture includes samples of reconstructed historical scents presented in costume exhibitions at the Royal Danish Collections.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2004년도 International Costume Conference in Association with ICOM 2004 SEOUL
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• pp.37-46
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• 2004

달아나는 향기: 방향성 의복의 역사와 보관 그리고 전시 향기는 스타일과 마찬가지로 자주 우리가 보존하였더라면 하는 복식역사의 보이지 않는 한 측면이다. 옷에 향수를 뿌리는 것은 타인에게 좋은 인상을 심어주기 위해서거나 또는 가죽을 무두질하거나 염색하는 과정에서 발생되거나 오랜 사용으로 인해 풍겨져 나오는 역한 냄새를 막기 위해서 활용되었다. 레이스 달린 컬러나 실크 스타킹 및 숄뿐만 아니라 비싼 장갑은 전통적으로 향수를 입혔다. 전통적 기법이든 현대적 기법이든 모두 좀벌레를 막는 것에서 더 나아가 옷을 입은 사람을 즐겁게 하고 이성을 유혹하기 위한 향수를 만들기 위해 시도되었다. 때때로 운이 좋으면 박물관 소장품 중에서 비의도적인 2차적 방향처리된 것도 발견할 수 있다. 박물관 소장품의 유한한 냄새의 정체를 어떻게 밝혀내고 이를 보존하여 대중에게 선사하는데 드는 비용은 얼마인가? 이 강의는 덴마크 로열컬렉션에 전시되어 있는 의복에 남아 있는 역사적인 방향성분의 재현 샘플을 다루고 있다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.447-457
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• 2001

Moliere completed classical French comedy by combining farce and commedia dell\`arte. Moliere believed that it was a plays obligation to give a lesson and entertainment. Moliere recreated commedia dell\`arte\`s typical acting patterns and characters in his work. He created with Lully comedie ballet that combined ballet and comedie for taste of Louis 14. Les precieuses ridicules critically displayed women at that time. Both contemporary high status women\`s custom and behavior were the targets of the author\`s synical criticism. There are three notable clothing imageries are shown in this work. First, Moliere used a variety of items in order to show emptiness of noble at that time. Items are ribbon and loop decorated rhingrave, feather decorated hat, perfumed wig and glove, lace covered canon and flower decorated shoes. Second, the author showed people\`s stutus through their clothes. Last, the author used clothing used clothing as a metaphor for hypocrisy. Thus when he said “take off the clothes” he meant take off hypocrisy and return truth.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.319-332
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze Kapa, the traditional bark cloth of Hawaii, including materials, method of manufacture, and colors and patterns, and to show the characteristics of Kapa to identify traditional culture of Hawaii as well as the unique culture of cloth of Hawaii in tropical area. The method of study is qualitative research using documentary records about Kapa. The cultivated Wauke proved to be the best material for bark cloth in Hawaii. The manufacture of Kapa was made by beating divided into two stages. The dyes for coloring were very different due to the existence of various plants. Indigenous Hawaiians showed the unique textures like grooving and watermarks, and the various designs in their Kapa. The characteristics of Hawaiian Kapa appear the symbol of some colors, the preference of geometrical patterns, the various uses of Kapa, and perfumed Kapa. Through these characteristics of Hawaiian Kapa, the traditional culture of indigenous Hawaiian can be understood very well. This study will help people understand indigenous bark cloth of tropical areas including Hawaii.