• Title/Summary/Keyword: pattern width

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A Study of Crinoline and Bustle Style Jacket Pattern Analysis and its Reproduction (크리놀린 스타일 및 버슬 스타일 재킷의 패턴분석과 재현에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Jin-Suk;Lee, Jeong-Ran
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.80-88
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    • 2006
  • This study attempted to undertake comparative analysis of woman's jacket pattern and details based on the Crinoline and Bustle style of the 19th century, comprehend the relation and differences between the two styles. And it also presented the resultant characteristics and attempted reproducing the original dress of the past for the development of modern woman's jacket design. Larger portion was occupied for the breast front width than the back width for both Crinoline and Bustle style, which indicated the remarkable difference between these styles and modern jackets in terms of pattern size. Circumferences also showed that both styles had larger size for the front region than for the back. Divided by two types of pattern shape. The Crinoline style has a waist line and flare. On the other hand, the Bustle style does not have a waist line and has pleats. These two styles shows distinct differences of patterns even if they seem similar. It was essential to undertake the designing of models by giving a consideration to the characteristics of patterns of the two styles. With respect to how to sketch the study models which will be applied for the reproduction to modern body sizes were as follows: the front bust circumference; B/4 +1+1 cm, the back bust circumference; B/4 +1-1 cm, front waist circumference; W/4 +1+1 cm, back waist circumference; W/4 +1-1 cm, the height of sleeve crown; AH/3, armhole line; B/4, the back width /2; 17.5 cm, the breast front width /2; 16.5cm. And for the rest parts, sizes reflecting the characteristics of the patterns of two styles have been applied.

The Effect of Geometric Shape of Amorphous Silicon on the MILC Growth Rate (MILC 성장 속도에 비정질 실리콘의 기하학적 형상이 미치는 영향)

  • Kim Young-Su;Kim Min-Sun;Joo Seung-Ki
    • Korean Journal of Materials Research
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    • v.14 no.7
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    • pp.477-481
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    • 2004
  • High quality polycrystalline silicon is very critical part of the high quality thin film transistor(TFT) for display devices. Metal induced lateral crystallization(MILC) is one of the most successful technologies to crystallize the amorphous silicon at low temperature(below $550^{\circ}C$) and uses conventional and large glass substrate. In this study, we observed that the MILC behavior changed with abrupt variation of the amorphous silicon active pattern width. We explained these phenomena with the novel MILC mechanism model. The 10 nm thick Ni layers were deposited on the glass substrate having various amorphous silicon patterns. Then, we annealed the sample at $550^{\circ}C$ with rapid thermal annealing(RTA) apparatus and measured the crystallized length by optical microscope. When MILC progress from narrow-width-area(the width was $w_2$) to wide-width-area(the width was $w_1$), the MILC rate decreased dramatically and was not changed for several hours(incubation time). Also the incubation time increased as the ratio, $w_1/w_2$, get larger. We can explain these phenomena with the tensile stress that was caused by volume shrinkage due to the phase transformation from amorphous silicon to crystalline silicon.

A Study of Jeogori Design Pattern using the Pattern Analysis in the Books Entitled Hanbok Construction Focusing on the Women in 20's (성인여성 저고리 패턴을 활용한 개선된 저고리 패턴설계연구 - 20대 여성용 저고리를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Hyun-Ju;Chang, Min-jung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.1-14
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    • 2015
  • This study mainly analyzes that designing patterns of an adult women Jeogori that takes advantage of patterns from each textbooks and complements the disadvantages based on the analysis of data from the dress evaluation and comparison of materials. The modification of a size specification is needed for the standard body as an adjust of the length of Jogori between front and back, mediation for bust width between front and back, a movement for the based line of Sup and Godae. As a result, the suitable pattern according to the standard somatotype is as below. Jeogori Length of front is determined by the length of back which was measured from side neck point to bust point plus three centimeters, and give three and half centimeters more in front. This three and half centimeters is for the curved in front of your body due to the chest. Bust width of front and back have to show the differences of human body. Bust width of front is calculated as bust girth into quarters and add two centimeters. Bust width of back gives one centimeter behind the curve from the center line in order to reduce the floating phenomenon. So, the amount of center back line dart is one centimeter. Arm hole girth measures as dividing bust girth into four. Also, Goedae width has two methods to measure. First, divide bust girth into ten equal parts and subtract 0.5 centimeters from it. Second, measure neck girth and divide it by four. Sleeve length is equal to Hwajang minus bust width of front. Hand wrist calculates in using bust girth. Make bust girth into quarters and multiply three fifths. Side line measures as deducting from Jeogori length of back to Arm hole girth and multiply two thirds.

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Development of Upper Bodice Pattern for the Late Elementary Obese- Schoolgirls - Using iVirds 3.0 PB and iVirds 3.0 DS program - (아동후기 비만여아의 상반신 원형 설계 - iVirds 3.0 PB 및 iVirds 3.0 DS 프로그램 적용 -)

  • Lim, Jiyoung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.16 no.6
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    • pp.921-926
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    • 2014
  • The aim of this study is to develop upper bodice pattern for obese girls aged 10~12 by using 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new upper bodice pattern considered obese-schoolgirls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+4.5, armhole depth B/4-1, waist girth W/4+0.5+dart amount, front chest width B/6+2, back width B/6+2, neck width B/12-0.5 and neck depth B/12+0.5. Second, armhole darts were added to compensate the loose amount of front armhole and dart manipulation was used to ensure a better appearance on armhole in the design. The dart side line was modified concavely to help cover the protruding stomach. Curved lines on the armhole were significantly relieved using dart manipulation and the darts side line was modified concavely to reduce the tightness around the front waist darts. Third, according to the results of the new upper bodice pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new upper bodice pattern was appropriate for the obese-schoolgirls. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns.

Development of the High School Girls Bodice Pattern Using Virtual Garment Simulation (가상착의 시스템을 이용한 여고생의 보디스 원형 개발)

  • Jeon, Seongyeon
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.21 no.2
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    • pp.189-202
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    • 2019
  • This study develops a bodice pattern for high school girls aged 17 to 19 that use virtual garment simulation. The study developed a bodice pattern based on the fit evaluation result for two selected bodice patterns. The basic formula of the design method based on the result of 3 times of fit evaluation is as follows: waist back $length=stature/8{\times}1.85cm$, waist front length=waist back length+bust/40+0.7cm, front bust girth=bust/2+4cm, back bust girth=Chest/2+3cm, armscye depth=Chest/4+0.5cm, back interscye length=bishoulder length -1.2cm, front interscye length=back interscye length -1.2cm, front neck width=back neck width -0.3cm. The developed bodice pattern used Bishoulder Length as a criteria for the calculation formula of back interscye length, and back interscye length as a criteria for the calculation formula of front interscye length. The fit evaluation showed the relevance of the bishoulder length, front interscye length, and back interscye length based on a comparison of the calculated figure. A bodice pattern with great body suitability and fitness to high school girls was developed through 3D virtual garment simulation that calculated the application of body proportion to width. This study only analyzed the evaluation result of a virtual model only in a representative form; however, a pattern study is also proposed to compare and analyze the design methods of patterns by body type.

A Study on Sensibility Image of Necktie according to Width and Color Combination of Checked Pattern (체크패턴의 폭과 색채조합에 따른 넥타이의 감성이미지 연구)

  • Choi, Su-Koung;Jung, Su-Jin;Sung, Nam-Suk
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.12 no.4
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    • pp.545-556
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the sensibility image of necktie according to width and color combination of checked pattern. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales. The stimuli were 18 color pictures, in which the width(small: 0.2cm, medium: 1cm, large: 2cm), tone combination(similar, contrast), and hue combination(WR: white+red, WB: white+blue, WG: white+gray) were manipulated. The 7-point scale was used for evaluation of sensibility image. The subjects of this research were 216 female college students living in Gyeongnam. The investigation was carried out at September 2009. The data were analyzed by using SPSS program. Analysis methods were ANOVA and Duncan-test. The results of this study were as follows.; The analyses of sensibility for necktie according to width and color combination of checked pattern revealed that the concerned factors are five characteristic dimensions of attractiveness, youth, appeal, elegance, and warmness. Width showed an independent effect on appeal. Tone combination showed an independent effect on attractiveness, appeal, elegance, and warmness. Interaction effects of width and tone combination on attractiveness were found. Hue combination showed an independent effect on all dimensions. In addition, significant interaction effects of width and hue combination on attractiveness, youth, appeal, and elegance were found. Significant interaction effects of tone combination and hue combination on attractiveness, youth, and appeal were found.

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Formation of Submicron Top Pattern by using Tri-Layer Resist Structure (심층 레지스터 구조를 이용한 서브미크론 상층패턴 형성)

  • 심규환;양전욱;이진희;강진영;마동성
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Telematics and Electronics
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    • v.25 no.5
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    • pp.495-500
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    • 1988
  • The effectiveness of tri layer resist (TLR) technique is compared with that of single layer resist (SLR) technique in order to make a 0.8um pattern with the linewidth deviation of 10 percents. SLR technique is not appropriate to shape the micro-pattern on oxide and aluminum steps because of the standing wave effect and the light scattering effect in shaping the resist pattern. On the contrary, the uniform line with a width of 0.8um on oxide and aluminum steps can be formed by TLR technique, reducting such effects. The planarization and the light absorption coefficient of the bottom layer resist in TLR are optimized by exposing it to ultra violet light after baking it for 30min at 230\ulcorner. An uniform line with a width of 0.8um on oxide step is defined with the light absorption coefficient of 0.85 whereas that on aluminum step is defined with 0.95.

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A Study of the Differing Images of Wearers according to Differences of Chroma Contrast Coloration and Stripe Patterns (채도 콘트라스트 배색과 스트라이프 무의 변화에 따른 의복착용자의 이미지 연구)

  • Moon, Ju-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.1
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    • pp.28-42
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    • 2010
  • A purpose of this study is to 6nd out how the casual and formal style clothes of stripe pattern giving variety by pattern direction, pattern width, and contrast coloration have an effect on image of wearers. For this, 192 stimuli were made and 1200 testee evaluated them using semantic differential scale. As a result, five image dimensions were drawn as a factor of attractiveness, gracefulness, activeness, visibility, and tenderness. Unlike the value contrast previously researched, it showed that chroma contrast coloration which was interacted with a color tone contrast coloration had an effect on all the 5 image dimensions. This result was recognized as significant clothes dues in evaluating the image of stripe wearers. Besides, clothing style, stripe pattern, and contrast coloration were made clear as an efficient parameter in image presentation of clothing wearers.

A Study on the Pattern by the Traits of Fabrics of Women's Tailored Jacket

  • Jang, Se-Eun;Sohn, Hee-Soon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.11 no.6
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    • pp.101-114
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    • 2007
  • This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.