• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.137-149
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to identify the perception of New-Hanbok Skirts that female consumers have and to analyze the design preference based on the analysis of designs of skirt products currently in distribution. Based on the analysis of the New-Hanbok brand website, the research was conducted through a survey of 355 women in their 20s and older. The survey consisted of 24 questions which were divided into pattern, color, material, and recognition type questions. The research results are as follows. First, most adult women answered that a New-Hanbok skirt is appropriate to wear at a holiday, anniversary, or outer dress for the spring and autumn seasons, and the design is the most important thing when considering buying. However, the ratios of wearing experience and possession were very low. Second, the preferred design aspects of a New-Hanbok skirt were the Jarak-skirt or Deot-skirt, calf-length, 5cm width of the waistband, 3cm uniform crease, a normal length waistband, bright neutral colors, and a waistband in different colors. For the double skirt, the design that shows 4cm of lining fabric and the different colors of upper fabric was the most preferred. The most preferred material was plain cotton. On the other hand, small floral patterns were preferred for patterned materials, and opaque upper fabric was most preferred for the double skirt. Through this study, it was confirmed that the Hanbok is seen as a positive aspect for modern consumers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.532-542
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• 2014

This study developed a practical knitwear design with applying the pattern of Queen Yeong's pearl pouch. The ume flower pattern of pearl pouch was simplified to be one repeat pattern, and four simulated knit pattern samples of G-A, G-B, R-A, and R-Bwere made with cable, cross, and two background colors of gray and red using Texpro V.11.0. The items of design application were selected after an interview with a panel of university students in their twenties and knit samples were produced by hand knitting. The small sized G-A for the partial ornament of hat, sweater, skirt, kitchenware case and accessories; the long sized G-B for the tuck of sleeves, hem of skirt and one-piece dress, partial ornament of sweater, scarf, and curtain decoration: the small sized R-A was preferred for point ornament of pouch, boots, hat, partial ornament of children's fashion products and accessories: the long sized R-B for table runner, leg warmer, tuck of sleeves, skirt hem, necktie, and scarf. The knit samples were formulated with partial ornaments attached on dress and props or connected each other. Colors of pastel and navy were also presented to meet the demands of panels. The study placed a limit on the slight difference between the simulation samples and knit samples due to the characteristics of threads and hand tension. The color variation for multiple coordination and activation to reduce the piece rate for young customers remains to be discussed in the near future.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.141-151
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to suggest the skirt grading rule for different somatotypes. For this study 9 subjects were classified three types according to the shape of front hips such as diamond, standard, heart. Skirts pattern were made by Moonwha grading method for traditional grading rule. For each somatotypes, skirt pattern were graded by new grading rule. The sensory evaluations were practiced for appearance and function. At the result, comparing between the new grading rule and traditional grading rule, new grading rule was fitter than the traditional grading rule. And diamond type was distinctively better than the other somatotype at sensory evaluation appearance. For pattern making of diamond type it had better use the new grading rule that was considered the characteristics of body shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.87-100
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• 2007

In the Joseon Dynasty, a Court Ladies' full dress was Slanted by the Ming Dynasty. Since the Ming Dynasty had declined, a Court Ladies' full dress, Jeok-ui began to be made by the Joseon Dynasty. It was based on the Chinese Court Ladies' full dress, Desam, but it became Joseon's own style, which was different from the Chinese one. The formula of Jeok-ui was completed in the time of King Yongjo. Since then, Jeok-ui for big ceremonies was called Bub-bok. It was recorded on the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon. The color of Jeok-ui was departmentalized for the wearer; red one for the Queen, bluish black one for the Crown Princess, and purple one for the Queen mother. There were some differences between Jeok-ui for feasts and for big ceremonies. In the case of Jeok-ui for big ceremonies, the pattern of Hyung-bae for the Queen was a dragon with five claws, and for the Crown Princess, a dragon with four claws. On the other hand, in the case of Jeok-ui for feasts, the pattern of Hyung-bae was phoenixes for the Queen, Crown Princess and the Queen mother. The number of embroidered round badges, which were attached to Jeok-ui, was 51 for big ceremonies, and 36 for feasts. The skirt for big ceremonies was a Jeonang-ut-chima with dragons pattern for the Queen, and phoenixes for the Crown Princess. The Queen's skirt for feasts was a Jeonang-ut-chima with phoenixes pattern, and the Queen mother's also. The Crown Princess' was a double skirt with phoenixes pattern. The pearls were not decorated on the shoes for big ceremonies, but shoes for feasts had six big pearls fer decoration. When the royal woman wore Jeok-ui for big ceremonies, it was prepared for Kyu, Pe-ok and belt with jade. But those were not necessary for Jeok-ui for feasts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.661-671
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• 2011

This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points, namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen, and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1=F8+1.1, $F4=2.5{\times}F2+0.9$, $F5=0.9{\times}F4+1.0$, $F6=0.3{\times}F4+0.4$, $B1=0.9{\times}B8+2.3$, $B4=2.1{\times}B2+1.3$, $B5=0.9{\times}B4+3.5$, and $B6=0.3{\times}B4+0.4$.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.117-129
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• 2022

In terms of junior high school girls' growth patterns during early adolescence, unlike childhood when relatively balanced growth patterns are found and high school years in which the normal adult body type is almost reached, junior high school girls display imbalanced and rapid growth. In fact, diverse size changes by body part occur with a significant difference among individuals. Therefore, it has been difficult for junior high school students to select their exact size when buying a school uniform. This study attempted to develop winter blouse and skirt patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school girl avatars of various body shapes. Skirt and blouse pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on such results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed by body shape. Skirts were assessed with 22 factors while blouses were analyzed with 25 factors. Then, correlations between skirts and blouses were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & pleats position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on skirt patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories except for position of the hip circumference, margin of the hips, width of the skirt, and appropriateness of waist line position. The virtual wear assessment on the blouse patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories but fit and shape pf the back part. In blouses, a significant difference was observed around shoulders and waist in type 1 and around the belly in type 2. On the contrary, for skirts, a significant difference was found around the hips and waists in type 1 and type 2. Therefore, these factors should be considered in making blouses and skirts. The above results suggested that skirt and blouse patterns should vary by body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for high school girls and school uniforms by body shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.1 s.26
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• pp.93-114
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• 1988

The purpose of this study was to develop pattern drafting methods of bodice, sleeve and skirt for Korean women at the age of 18 to 34. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. 305 women aged 18 to 34 were measured on 49 items. 56 items including 49 measured and 7 calculated items were analyzed statistically. 2. New pattern drafting methods were developed based on the results of the data analysis. Basic shells constructed from the patterns were examined through fitting tests for completion. 3. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new pattern for women by comparing it with one of the most used conventional patterns. An original rating scale was developed and used for the evaluation. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 53 items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant difference ($\alpha{\leqq}0.01$ or $\alpha{\leqq}0.05$) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted at all 53 items, and to be comfortable.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.690-703
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to help user understand the basic principles and interfaces of each program, and to provide a base material for the development of more efficient apparel CAD systems to compensate for each program's shortcomings by comparing the function of three apparel CAD systems: Yuka CAD, Opti-tex, and Style CAD. For this purpose, the skirt waistband and sleeve armhole line creation process were selected based on these two criteria. 1) There is a big difference between principle and method between CAD systems. 2) When CAD system is used rather than paper drawing process, the process is shortened and convenience is high. In this study, pros and cons and supplement point of each CAD system are suggested by comparing the functions of the CAD system performing the selected drafting process by four criteria: icon, key, method, and characteristic point. As a result of the study, it was confirmed that the three CAD systems differ in the basic principle and interface environment. As a result of analyzing the skirt waistband method function, it was confirmed that the band line is formed directly on the outline of the skirt and the band dart recognition function is the most efficient function and as a result of the analyzing the sleeve armhole line method function, it was confirmed that the curve generation function using the shape of the actual curve measure and the length adjustment function through the automation of the dimension calculation is the most efficient function.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.281-296
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• 2022

This study is designed to compensate for the lack of children's clothing relics from the early 18th century and to reproduce young upper-class girls' costume as hanbokcontent. The shapes and materials of costumes are based on the record of 『Sukjong-silrok』 in 1701 and the characteristics of adult ladie's costume relics in this period, but reproduced as miniatures of these relics as like Joseon children's clothing of another period. The reproduced costumes are formal wear for 3~4 year-old girls, consisting of yeoui [女衣], long unlined skirts, and lined skirts. Sizes were set at a height ratio of approximately 155:95. Yeoui is sam-hoejang-jeogori using pine pollen-colored damask with a grape-squirrel pattern and a purple damask with flower-treasure pattern. The full length of yeoui is 24.5cm. It has a square-dangko outer collar with square inner collar. The long unlined skirt is a six-width overskirt that is 82cm long, made with lotus patterned sa. The lined skirt is a five-width skirt that is 61.3cm made with flower-treasure patterned red damask and ju. Several long pleats on both sides of these two skirts have been omitted. The result provides meaningful content for children's clothing in the early 18^th century and will be used as costume for an educational trial performance.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Computer Information Conference
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• 2020.01a
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• pp.269-270
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• 2020

본 논문에서는 한류의 영향으로 그 관심이 증가되고 있는 신한복 커스터마이징 시스템 개발을 위해 신한복 치마 패턴개발에 필요한 기초자료를 얻고자 시판 6개 신한복 브랜드의 치마 패턴을 비교분석하였다. 같은 디자인의 free사이즈 치마임에도 불구하고 각기 다른 치수로 제작되는 것으로 나타났다. 치마길이는 17cm, 허리벨트길이는 29cm, 허리벨트폭은 4.5cm, 끈길이는 72.7cm, 치마길이는 17.0cm, 치마폭은 90.5cm의 차이를 나타냈다. 같은 신한복 치마임에도 브랜드에 따라 치수 차이가 큰 것으로 분석되어 치수규격의 정리가 필요할 것으로 사료된다. 한국 성인여성의 신체치수를 분석하여 그에 적합한 신한복 치마 패턴 개발이 이루어져야 함을 알 수 있다.