• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.13
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• pp.13-22
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• 2012

The patterns for Jeogui and Pyeseul (patterns of the queen's ceremonial robe worn and a belt ornament covering knees in the front) as owned by National Museum of Korea were made in the early 20th century and both of them were colored on paper. Through a non-destructive analysis on pigments and dyes used on both the patterns, it was attempted to identify the coloring materials. As for the analysis of the coloring pigments, the XRF was used. As a result of the pigment analysis on the pattern for Jeogui, it is presumed that lead white was used for obtaining the white color, ink stick for black color, orpiment for yellow color, cinnabar and red lead for red color, copper and arsenical or a mixture of copper carbonate and orpiment for green color whereas brass seems to have been used for obtaining other colors. The pigments used for obtaining the colors of white, black, yellow and green on the pattern for Pyeseul are the same as those used on the pattern for Jeogui whereas the red pigments used on each of the two patterns are seen to be different. Although it may be difficult to identify the kinds of blue pigments that were used on the patterns for Jeogui and Pyeseul, a mixture containing lead white is presumed to be used as blue pigment. Also, as a result of the UV-Vis spectroscopic analysis performed on the blue hanji (traditional Korean paper) of the pattern for Jeogui, it was presumed to have been dyed with indigo.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.68-91
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to create modern patterns based on considering the types and design elements of Joseon hwapo patterns containing Korean identity, and to develop costume designs by applying design elements of traditional Korean dress, Hanbok. These designs combine traditional costumes with modern sensibility using the attribute listing method, and present them using a 3D virtual clothing program. Through this, it is meaningful as it organizes data on Joseon hwapo patterns, which were rarely dealt with in the traditional Korean costume research, and it is also of research value as it is a work that utilizes Joseon hwapo patterns as a new source of fashion design development. As a research method, literature research was conducted based on the documents, 'Nabeshima-sarasa hidensho', 'Nabeshima-sarasa mihoncho', and 'Zoho kafu benran', which are related to Joseon hwapo remaining in Japan. Based on the literature research, research was performed by creating pattern design and costume design using the attribute listing method, and 3D virtual clothing. Traditional Korean costumes used in design development in this study were saekdong-jeogori, dolddi-jeogori, magoja, hongjangsam, durumagi, jungdan, gollyongpo, jeogui, breast band, mujigi-chima, chima, and baji. Further, accessories used in each costume, such as pyeseul, daedae, hapi, and jeonhaeng-utchima, and features of configurations, such as yongbo, chest ribbons, band hem, gusset, collar and dongjung, heorimalgi, neckline, and sapok line, were used for design development.