• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.23 no.6
• /
• pp.744-757
• /
• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
• /
• v.5 no.1
• /
• pp.45-59
• /
• 1993

The aims of this study are to develop CAI programs for bodice and sleeve pattern drafting for the 3rd grade students in a middle school and to compare the students’achievement degree in using traditional teaching method with that in using CAI programs. On the basis of results above the direction and possibility of using computers in education home economics is another aim. For this study, after the programs are developed, which is on the model of middle school text book, one hundred girl students of 2nd grade of middle school in Songpa Gu, Seoul, who have never given Bodice and Sleep Pattern Drafting lesson are chosen. The students are divided into two groups: one is called comparison group, which is taught by traditional method, the other, experimental group, which is taught by CAI programs. To evalute the learning achivement degree, evaluation test, effectiveness of learning and interest degree test and time test are given. Questionaire investigation about CAI program is given to experimental group. The results of this study are as follows: 1. CAI programs on pattern drafting are developed and can be used in the class. 2. In the tests of achievement degree, of effectiveness, and of interest the experimental group gets higher scores than the comparison group. 3. In the time test about how many students can draft the pattern in a given time, in every step more students in experimental group finished drafting than the comparison group. 4. The students showed interest in CAI programs and played an active part in the using computers. Therefore, using CAI programs in the class of pattern drafting saved the teachers lots of difficulties and enables individual learning improving the effectiveness of learning. I hope the studies of CAI will be established in other field as well as Home Economics, especially clothing part, and computers will be used lively

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.6
• /
• pp.56-68
• /
• 2013

A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.