• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제34권5호
• /
• pp.41-48
• /
• 1996

The purpose of this paper was to identify bonding strength by laundering methods(dry and wet) of the after laundering of the adhesive interlining. The results of this study were as fallows. 1.As laundery repeated it revealed that the bonding strength was decreased to some degree regardless of the kinds of face cloth, laundering methods & adhesive interlining. 2. Bonding strength of woven adhesive interlining after and before ironing is different by its weave: A1>A3>A2. 3. Bonding strength before cleaing is smaller than that after laundering with ironing. 4. As for laundering methods, while dry cleaning is excellent with little influence on bonding strength. It doesn't deform the shapes of dress, in cases of woven adhesive interlining.

• 복식
• /
• 제65권2호
• /
• pp.75-91
• /
• 2015

This study is about Jongi-sim(Paper used for interlining) used in costumes of the Joseon Dynasty. Terms related to Jongi-sim include 'Anji(按紙)', 'Soh(槊)' and 'Gyeok(隔)'. Anji is a term that refers to Jongi-sim used on padded clothes. Soh refers to stiff and thick paper inserted between fabrics. Gyeok is predicted to be a term that refers to the use of paper as both interlining and lining. Chojuji(草注紙) was used for Jongi-sim in Cheolik, Aekjueum, Baji and Dae among kings and crown princes' ceremonial costumes. Chojuji and Jeojuji(楮注紙) were used in women's royal costumes such as Jeogori, Hosu and Chima. Doryeonji(搗鍊紙) was used in Dae and Yangyieom. Gongsangji(供上紙) was used for the interlining or lining in Yangyieom. Excavated costumes that used Jongi-sim for the entire clothes are Cheolik and Jangjeogori. Jongi-sim placed in Git(collar) was sometimes placed together with cotton. Geodeulji of Jangot used paper in invisible parts as to replace fabric by paper. Danryeong and Dapho attached Jongi-sim to Mu, and stiff paper was inserted.

• 복식
• /
• 제64권8호
• /
• pp.55-66
• /
• 2014

Baeja(背子), which was excavated from the tomb of Sim, Su-ryun(沈秀崙, 1534-1589), a civil official, has a distinctive pattern. Two rectangles are connected by button knots on both shoulders and below the armpits, and surround the front and back of the upper body. Also, the back is shorter than the front, while the center-front is not opened. It also has a round neckline without a collar. Jeojuji(楮注紙), which is a traditional Korean paper made from mulberry bark, is put between the outer shell and lining of this clothing as an interlining. The purpose of this study is to perform a morphological feature analysis of the Baeja to examine its characteristics and name, and clothes with similar features, attire relic, pictorial and ceramic materials as well as precedent studies were used in the analysis. The Baeja, which was excavated from the tomb of Sim, Su-ryun, has the same pattern as Yangdang(裲檔), which was worn in the ancient northern region and China. Its composition and the way it was worn are very simple. Also, the shorter back length can be used as evidence that it was worn as everyday outer clothing, and not in a ceremony. Jeojuji, used as an interlining, made it easy to sew and maintain attire pattern and played a role of maintaining warmth. Therefore, this Baeja is presumed to be an outer clothing simply worn in the everyday life for convenience and warmth. In regards to its morphological feature, it was most likely a Yangdang in Joseon Dynasty.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제33권6호
• /
• pp.179-186
• /
• 1995

The purpose of this paper was to identify bonding strength by weave (plain weave, twill weave, satin weave) and counts(20 s, 40s) of the face cloth cotton 100% in the course of sewing process using by cotton fabric of adhesive interlining. The results of the study was as follows. 1. With the increased laundry, it revealed that the bonding strength was decreased to some degree regardless of the kinds of face cloth. 2. the bonding strength by the counts of the face cloth appeared in order of 40 s<20 s. 4. It was observed that there are no significant differences on the adhesive strength in the cutting directions which are an inclination warp, weft, bias in this experiment.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제19권4호
• /
• pp.671-683
• /
• 1995

This paper described the changes of mechanical KES values after fusing 4 different (in weave & density) wool face fabrics with 3 different (in weave & extensibility) fusible interlining. The fusing condition was 15$0^{\circ}C$, 4kg.f/cm2 The results of the study were as follows: (1) After fusing, KES mechanical value of B, 2HB, G, 2HGS, WC increased, where as LT, WT werent't changed so much and EM, RT decreased. It means after fusing extensibility and recovery property were decreased and volume and stiffness were increased. (2) Within the limits of this investigation, tensile property seemed to be more influenced by the characteristics of face fabrics, and bending property nil by the effect of adhesive penetration and shear and compression property did by complex of the characteristics of face fabrics and interlining and the effect of adhesive penetration.