• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.43-59
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• 2010

In the first half of 20th century, there was an abrupt change in society and social values. Therefore, a demand for functional women's sportswear started to increase. This paper has attempted to investigate the impact of functionalism on women's sportswear in the first half of the 20th century. The following results were obtained: First, anti-tradition was observed. There was a tendency to be separated from the past and against tradition. It was tried to pursue freedom, getting away from corset and petticoat. Second, structural functions were targeted. In other words, precise and efficient shapes and simple silhouette and line were emphasized. Third, fitness of purpose was found. More liberal and comfortable design has been targeted. That's why a variety of functional pants have been designed instead of skirts. Fourth, utility and practicality were found. Elastic fabrics such as wool and jersey and sweater have commonly used in sportswear. A variety of new fabrics have been used and details such as flare, slit and pleats have been designed. Lastly, non-ornamentality was found. The beauty of simple shape was pursued by omitting details or eliminating unnecessary ornaments. Monochrome and dark color were preferred and a use of accessories has declined. The result of this paper could be used in establishing a theoretical framework on the impact on social change, values and art and helpful In modern women's sportswear design and marketing which have become more important.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-78
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to compare the style of clothing by type of the Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe based on the examination of the literature centered on the historical relationship between Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe. The research results are as follows. First, it was found that both the apparels of Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe had hemp cloth with the V-neckline with the blocked front part and hemp cloth with the open front that is worn by overlapping the straight collars of the upper garment. Both men and women wore the garment of the straight line collar that is worn by folding towards the left or right, or upper garment of the round shaped collar. Women wore an upper garment with short sleeves on top of the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes while men wore pants for the lower garment, and women wore skirt and apron with triangular cloth decoration on top of the skirt. Second, Goguryeo Anak Tomb No. 3 mural painting(year 357) shows that apparel worn by the lady who is the wife of the owner of the tomb is similar to the apparel worn by the lady in the lacquer painting for folding screen of the Sima Jinlong Tomb ancient painting on the woman of chaste reputation in terms of the form and structure.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.1-19
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• 1997

This thesis is a reflection of Korean aestheticism and how it has evolved and influenced Korean contemporary fashion throughout the last century. Up to the current, there have been five notable trends of fashion that have been influenced from and have reflected the qualities emblematic of various periods in Korean history. They can be characterized as the era of Missionary fashion, Uniform fashion, Salon fashion, Brand Name Fashion, and finally, fashion from the current era of diversification. The specific characteristics of each fashion era have been analized and illustrated in a comprehensive table. Design characteristics of Korean contemporary fashion are as follows : 1. A point of emphasis is given to facial feature, unconstructive design and ample silhouette and A silhouette, two-piece and pants. Korean style wrap skirt, a smooth curve and layered style. 2. Effect of flatness from material; as methods of quilting, reinforced dual stitching(Kaeki), patchwork, embroidery and goldfoil thread extra, it is turned up that texture of cloth stuff and effects of flatness. 3. Simple color combinations give effects in two different directions For instance, white and a variety of vivid colors, a dull color and bright colors, black, blue. 4. Over-design, diffusion of fashion. Based on the design characteristics described above, the essence of Korea's beauty consciousness can be captured and summarized through the following points: 1. Emotionalism and non-characterism: traditional and simple natural beauty and modernized natural beauty. 2. From authoritism to non-authoritism: traditional and formal personal beauty and casual characteristic beauty. 3. Polaris (antithesis) phenomenon: chastic beauty and ostentatious beauty, simplicity and lavishness, conformity of fashion and originality. Although the beauty consciousness of Korean contemporary fashion is changing from traditional passive metaphor to aesthetic expressionism for the new generation, after all the basic foundation or root of the spiritual beauty of idealism is usually recognized by focusing on the face.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.184-193
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• 2016

This study investigates the recognition and preference of functional textile material about outdoor clothing widely used in the current fashion market. The study targeted 216 males and females in their 20s to 50s who wear outdoor clothing as casual wear. To analyze data, frequency analysis, cross tabulation analysis and ANOVA were conducted with the SPSS 21.0 statistical package. The results are as follows. First, recognition of functional textile material of outdoor clothing showed that 20s was the lowest preference and all age groups preferred lightweight textile material. In information recognition of functional outdoor clothing, 40s showed the highest recognition, while 20s showed the lowest recognition. Second, 40s and 50s preferred functional material to 20s and 30s. In particular, 40s and 50s preferred clothing items with water vapor permeability & water repellent material to 20s and 30s. All age groups preferred insulation material jumpers, water vapor permeability & water repellent material jumpers and stretch pants. Third, reasons for purchasing functional material clothing was: design for the age group 20s and 30s versus health and function for the age group 40s and 50s. It is necessary to develop functional clothing products based on exact consumer information and preferences.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.979-988
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the lower body size and forms of married women in their thirties who have experienced pregnancy and parturition. Their measurements derived from the direct anthropometry and indirect photographic measures were compared to those of 20's. Improving consumer satisfaction for missy brand, especially in fitness of skirt and pants, some lower body classification were presented. The results were as follows : 1. The characteristics of lower body showed many differences by individuals especially in depth, girth, length and angle measures rather than height and breadth measures. Many items including index, calculations and angles revealed significant differences compared to those of 20's. Several breadth items, crotch length had distinct increase than those of women in twenties. Flattened buttocks side silhouette from waist to hip, buttocks drooping and decrease of inclination implied the influence of pregnancy, parturition and aging. 2. We hardly find out sizing system differences between missy brand and miss brand. Based on waist and hip girth measurements of subjects, sizing system of missy apparel wasn't suitable for their body size. Excessive drop(hip girth-waist girth) of missy brands, 25~30 cm, was almost the same to the drop of miss brands. 3. To improve the size satisfaction of missy women, we classified the lower body into 5 types according to drop, buttocks angle and hip length. Type 1 was small waist with large buttocks projection, and hip length was close to an average. Type 2 was small waist with medium buttocks projection, and the hip length was close to an average. Type 3 was medium waist, with average projection of the buttocks and hip length. Type 4 was large waist, projection of the buttocks and the hip length were close to an average. Type 5 was large waist, projection of the buttocks was small and the hip length was close to an average.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.56-68
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• 2016

Popular culture has symbolic meaning and has been constructed through different mass media. Newspapers played a significant role in 1950s and 1960s public culture. In particular, editorial cartoons in newspapers expressed social aspects of the age implicitly through satire and criticism. This study examines delivered culture by reflecting the past social aspects and inquiring on clothing featured in the editorial cartoon "Gobau". As for a research method, literature research was conducted on clothing of the age with a review of "Gobau". As for a research range, examination was done based on the complete works of Gobau composed of 5 volumes published as a first edition by Hankookmunhwasa on November, 1973. Early "Gobau" cartoons from 1951-1963 were published in 5 volumes; therefore, research was conducted for the era from 1950s to the early 1960s. Clothing expressed in "Gobau" were reviewed, classified into formative characteristics and internal meaning. Internal meaning was examined by dividing into the expression of social aspects and criticism of society. The research findings are as follows. First, clothing in "Gobau" reflected characteristic in direct manner. There was a coexistence of Hanbok and western-styled, clear distinction between men's trousers and women's skirt. Besides, various kinds of women's western-styled dress appeared in the 1960s. Second, they showed the dress culture that reflected past social aspects. Many aspects were included to reconstruct old and worn clothes due to scarce resources after the Korean War, and cherishing clothes, buying fabric directly to making clothes, making clothes from dressmaking shop, and restrictions on imported goods and luxury items. Third, the study also examined the social norms for fashion. It contained negative perspectives on women wearing pants, short skirts, and new hair styles (like perms) from western culture as well as lipstick.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.189-199
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• 2010

This study develops a coverall design for the body shape and movement of infants. This research analyzed these processes: 1. The current coverall styles preferred for infants. 2. The appropriate products for the real size, body shape, movement, and fit of infants. 3. The observations of the 6 months to 9 months movement and development of infants. 4. The design and creation of a new coverall base in this study, and to check the suitable test the developed coverall design for the infant. The result of this study are: A coverall for infants that lie or crawl on the floor must avoid opening in the center front and a gore has to be added at the crotch of the pants for the better movement of infants. These ways provide infants a neat appearance and easy movement. The test of developed designs shows that the developed coverall design covers the size gap of the trunk loop according to the growth of the infant and the movement of the legs; in addition it provides a positive aesthetic effect. The waistline in the developed coverall (a waistline that should exist lower than the body waistline of the infant) can reduce seam stress because the pressure of the seam line can be absorbed in a dipper. It is one of the suitable design points for infants lying prone all day long in this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.821-833
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information about body proportion characteristics, and the level of body cathexis and fit satisfaction related to those characteristics. It is hoped that this will help to improve ready-to-wear satisfaction in middle-aged women. In order to achieve this purpose, the body proportion characteristics of middle-aged women were measured and were compared with that of standard and ideal body types. Then, the body cathexis and fit satisfaction according to these characteristics was analyzed. Finally, the following results were obtained. First, the average height of middle-aged women was 6.87 head, waist length was 58.9% of height, and knee length was 25.6% of height. In frontal appearance, the hip width, shoulder width, and chest width were wider than waist width(24%, 20%, and 11% respectively). Chest and hip depths was thicker than waist depth(19% and 17% respectively). Second, in lengths proportion, their lower body was shorter than the standard body shape for women in their 20s'. Also the difference between the width of frontal appearance and depth proportion of side appearance was small, suggesting a more slender silhouette among the middle aged women. Finally, middle-aged women who were not wide or big in the chest had higher satisfaction with their bodies. As shoulder width and chest depth became small, the fit satisfaction of upper clothes increased. While longer lower body had higher fit satisfaction with pants crotch, shorter lower body had higher fit satisfaction with waist and abdominal parts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.1-18
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to identify the design features appropriate for the altered physical characteristics of pregnant women and formulate the direction of future design and development of maternity wear. A Delphi research method based on a panel of experts and pregnant women was used and the survey was conducted to determine the suitability of maternity wear. The survey found that A-line silhouette outerwear with round necklines, with wide sleeves and snap-button fastening on the front with a formal and decent look was considered appropriate as maternity and postpartum wear. Shirts and blouses long enough to cover the hip area to complement women's curvy and full figures, especially around the bust, waist, and hip areas during the later stages of pregnancy were found to be appropriate. Calf-length pleated skirts were comfortable to wear during pregnancy due to the abundant freedom of movement and space offered by pleats. Ankle-length straight leg pants were rated appropriate in terms of comfort and style both during late stages of pregnancy and at work postpartum. Dresses decorated with pleats from the armholes all the way down to the knees were found to provide high levels of comfort at the abdomen, chest, and hips, and considered appropriate. Based on this study results, a follow-up study will be conducted to examine the design of maternity wear during pregnancy as well as at work after pregnancy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1146-1157
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• 2005

As individual family has fewer children, market sectors targeting children's goods upgrade their products quality and price. Children's wear used to be for casual activity or going to school. Recently, occasions in which children are dressed up are getting increase, such as wedding, concert or family gathering. Therefore, the industry sector of formal wears for school boys are growing. The purpose of this study is to research and grading of formal wears for school boys to improve their fit and comfort. The selected items as formal wear were tailored jacket, tuxedo, tail coat and pants. Based on the grading increments of the industry, grading was done far 7 years and 11 years old school boy for each item. Like the pattern alteration, grading increments were tested and altered through wearing tests. The final increments were suggested as the 'researched grading increments'. The results and conclusions are: 1. Appropriate size allowance, ease amount and lengths for boys are different from those far adults. The difference should be applied for boy's wear. 2. Grading increments for an age group are different from other age group. For example increments of 7 from 9 are different from that of 11 from 9. It is because a certain part grows faster during a certain age whereas other part grows faster during different period. Therefore grading for children should reflect their growth rather than same size increments which is common in adult size chart.