• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.65-69
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• 2010

Collagen is the most abundant animal protein in mammals, accounting for about 30 % of all proteins. It is present in connective tissue and contributes to the structural framework of most organs. The tripeptide (glycineproline-hydroxyproline) with the INCI name Tripeptide-29 is main component of collagen type I. The palmitoyl tripeptide (palmitoyl-glycine-proline-hydroxyproline) with the INCI name Paimitoyi Tripeptide-29 is a synthetic material that was designed as a topical agent to stimulate collagen production. We synthesized the palmitoyl tripeptide as a potential anti-wrinkle compound. This compound has been characterized using HPLC. This compound proved, through in vitro tests, to stimulate collagen production and fibroblast proliferation. These results were very promising, so human studies were subsequently performed. We investigated the skin improvement effect of the palrnitoyl tripeptide on human skin by using non-invasive instruments. We measured physiological effects such as skin wrinkles and elasticity after volunteers applied the cosmetic products for 8 weeks. We observed significant improvement in skin wrinkles and elasticity after use of the cosmetic products for 8 weeks. We concluded that the palmitoyl tripeptide had an anti-aging effect on human facial skin.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.570-576
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• 2014

Palmitoyl tripeptide (M330) showed higher antimicrobial activities than methyl paraben or phenoxy ethanol through minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) test. However, when the M330 was added into cosmetic formulation, white precipitates formed due to the electrostatic interaction between M330 and carbopol (carboxy vinyl polymer) as a thickener in cosmetics, and the viscosity of cosmetics decreased sharply. Also, the antimicrobial activities of M330 in cosmetics became lower than those of methyl paraben or phenoxy ethanol. Thus, the encapsulation of M330 in ethosome vesicle was attempted in order to recover the declined antimicrobial activities of M330 in cosmetics and prevent the precipitates from forming. When ethosome-encapsulated M330 was added into cosmetics, the precipitates did not form, and the decrease in the viscosity of cosmetics was not large compared to the addition of unencapsulated M330. Challenge tests showed that antimicrobial activities against gram negative bacteria were improved by the encapsulation of M330, but the encapsulation was not effective against gram positive bacteria and fungus. A combination of M330 with EDTA showed synergistic inhibitory potential against C. albicans. After coencapsulation of M330 and EDTA in ethosome, antimicrobial activities proved to be higher than those of unencapsulated M330 and EDTA.