• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.183-194
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• 2013

In recent years, intense cold spells caused by climate change have encouraged an increasing number of people to wear a variety of padded jackets. In this context, this paper aims to address the production of padded jackets in casual brands and to develop basic patterns for well-fitted padded jackets targeted toward women in their 20s. The study centered on the production of padded jackets from 13 apparel companies. In addition, three sample jackets were created with 3oz. fill in the body and 2oz. fill in the sleeves, and they were subjected to a wearing test to determine their movement functionality. The research findings were as follows. Woven jackets constituted 53.4% of the winter jackets produced by casual brands; padded jackets accounted for 25.3%, leather jackets 12.6%, and other jackets 8.7%. Thus, data showed that padded jackets accounted for a considerable proportion of overall winter jacket production. Based on the wearing test results, the basic measurements of a padded jacket for women in their 20s were as follows: bust girth of B/4+3cm front length and B/4+3.5cm back length; waist girth of W/4+3.1 cm front length and W/4+1.9cm back length; and hip girth of H/4+3.3cm front length and H/4+2.8cm back length. The jacket length was set at 62.8cm, with a 63.8cm sleeve length. This study concluded that providing padded jacket manufacturers with basic pattern designs for a well-fitted jacket is expected to boost the efficiency of pattern design processes and the production of padded jackets.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.755-764
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• 2013

This study intends to use the basic patterns in 3oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets made for women in their 20s to research the proper ease of 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets. The study also proposes a method of designing padded jacket patterns according to padding thickness. The results of this study are as follows: The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets had the following sizes. The front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+2.5cm and B/4+3cm, W/4+2.6+3.3(D)cm and W/4+1.5+2.6(D)cm, and H/4+2.8cm and H/4+3cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 62.4cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 63.4cm. For the 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets, the front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+4cm and B/4+4cm, W/4+4.1+3(D)cm and W/4+2.5+3.6(D)cm, and H/4+4.3cm and H/4+4cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 63.2cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 64.2cm. The results of this study showed that padded jackets with thicker padding need more ease. For jackets with stitches, the decreased lengths must be added in the pattern length. The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets all scored 4 points or higher in the movement functionality assessment, thus showing outstanding movement functionality.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.19-28
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• 2020

This study investigated the annual frequency and clothing type by extracting puff sleeves designs from overseas fashion collections from S/S and F/W 2017 to S/S and F/W 2019. Specifically, it analyzed production characteristics and pattern methods by the type of puff sleeve design, and found the following: In terms of the percentage of puff sleeves by season, S/S 2019 was the highest. Since Newtro, with a 1990s sensitivity, was the mainstream trend during the S/S 2019, power puff sleeves, a signature of the Newtro style, accounted for the greatest portion of this design feature. In terms of the type of clothes with puff sleeves, 'dress' (54.3%) was the highest, followed by 'shirts/blouse' (27.5%), 'jacket/coat' (12.5%), and 'padded coat/jacket' (5.7%). Specifically, puff sleeve patterns were found mostly in the 'dress' category, more than 47% every season, while the figures were more than 23%, 9.3%, and 2.6% in 'shirts/blouse', 'jacket/coat' and 'padded coat/jacket', respectively. In other words, puff sleeve designs were more common in 'dress' or 'shirts/blouse' than in a 'padded coat/jacket'. In general, the shoulder length is reduced to prevent the shoulders from looking broader because of puffs. In contrast, recent puff-sleeve styles differ from those introduced by modern fashion designers in that they have drop shoulders with puffs attached. Furthermore, as constructive and over-exaggerated sleeve patterns appeared, puffs were applied to diverse sleeve styles including mutton leg and Mameluke styles. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles and serve as the basis for further studies on the configuration methods of puff sleeves. This study will be used in various ways, including as educational material on sleeve patterns. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of puff sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.261-272
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• 2021

The purpose of the present study was to evaluate the thermal insulation of air-filled winter jackets according to the amount of air-filler using a thermal manikin. The insulation of these jackets' was compared to a down padded jacket with an identical design and size. The amounts of air-filler were 100% (26,219 cm³), 70% (18,645 cm³), 50% (13,110 cm³), and 0% (0 cm³). The results showed that a clothing insulation (Icl) of 0%, 50%, 70%, and 100% air, and 100% down jackets was 0.208, 0.243, 0.207, 0.176, and 0.315 clo, respectively. In addition, the down jacket with waisttaped had a clothing insulation of 0.369 clo. However, the highest value of clothing insulation per clothing weight was the 50% air-filled jacket in all conditions. In terms of regional power consumption of the thermal manikin, the down jacket consumed less power for the shoulder and chest than the air-filled jackets. In conclusion, in order to maximize the thermal insulation of air-filled jackets, an optimal amount of air-filler, that is, an amount which does not compromise (break) the layer of inner air between the surface of manikin and the lining of the jacket, should be explored. Further studies on lining materials, end-closed design, and changes in thermal insulation under the conditions of strong wind or heavy snow are recommended.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.608-619
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• 2017

In this research, we analyze jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S~2015 F/W to investigate how shape, tailoring component, and design of jackets have changed. Our analysis of 2,493 jackets from the collection shows that the hour-glass silhouette was the most popular among silhouettes and that standard-length was the most popular jacket length. Such jacket shape expresses the natural beauty of human body. Regarding Tailoring Components, our analysis shows that tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which is neither too wide, padded, nor low, were prevalent. The analysis also shows that tailored collar and button closure were the most common. Tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which fit the body outline, allow the silhouette to show natural curves of the human body. As for jacket design, popular colors differed by season, but single-colored jackets prevailed, and woven was the most used material. Since 2000, the most favored form of jacket in women's fashion was a standard-length jacket with an hour-glass silhouette, tight sleeve, natural shoulder line, and tailored collar. This suggests that jackets emphasizing natural curves of the body were favored. Overall, silhouette, length, sleeve, and shoulder line remained consistent while collar and closure varied. This indicates that collar and closure method play a significant role in changes in fashion. Seasonally, elements of shape, tailoring component, and design coexist, but once the shape is determined, the tailoring component and design change in relation to each other.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.113-127
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• 2021

This study aims to analyze the style of men's suits and extract expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette. Research methods are literature studies, case studies, and questionnaires. The stimuli were created using CLO 3D, a virtual sewing CAD. This study's results are as follows: 1) The British suit jacket has an angled shoulder line using thin pads, and a slightly higher waistline. The pants of the suit have a high waistline and two pleats, so the thighs of the pants are wide. The American suit jacket has a natural shoulder line, and the waistline is not emphasized. The width of the jacket is relaxed, and the length is long. The pants of the suit have a higher waistline, and the pants are wide as well. The Italian suit jacket has wide shoulders, and the waistline is connected lower with a soft curve, and the length is relatively short. The trousers of the suit are tapered and get narrower as it goes down to the hem. 2) Because it originated in the practices of true bespoke tailoring, traditional British suits have a far more 'fitted' silhouette than the mass-produced styles that became emblematic of the American style. By the late 1950s, a sack-style suit was standard American business attire. This technique gives the sack suit its characteristically 'boxy' silhouette. The "Continental" presented a highly tailored silhouette, with padded shoulders, a slim, tight-fitting chest, and a closely tapered waist. The story was that Italian culture valued aesthetics over all else and thus sought the 'slim' suit style as much as possible. 3) The main expressional words of visual images for men's suits differ greatly depending on the silhouette of suit. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'neat', 'classic', 'educated', 'hard', 'mature', for fitted silhouettes. The words of 'masculine', 'basic', 'comfortable', 'simple', 'mature', 'conservative', 'modern', are ranked for boxy silhouettes. And the words of 'slim', 'young', 'neat', are noted for slim silhouettes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.177-186
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• 2003

This study is based on the observation of clothes excavated from of YeoHung Min( 1586∼1656)'s grave, which enable to understand of woman's funeral clothes among upper class in mid 17C. Lady Min buried with her husband Jung (Clan of Dong Rae)'s grave where located in KwanAk gu, Seoul was move out another place in 1989. During excavation of the grave, 31 pieces form 5 different type of clothes and total 18 pieces form 8 different from Lady Min (Clan of YeoHung). Remarkable finding from the excavated clothes is the Nuwooli(veil) which is known to be discovered first time in Korea, and a piece of tooth, which is related with funeral custom of those day, and cotton seeds are found from chima(skirt) and Jogori(jacket). Jangot(coat) has been used for the use of over garment assuming the changes of Jogori form during mid of Josun dynasty. It is also remarkable that padded and quilted clothing is still being commonly used until mid-l7C.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.703-713
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• 2021

This study was to investigate the thermal insulation of clothing ensembles, including padded jackets with two different filling types. Thermal insulation of the ensemble was measured using a thermal manikin in four conditions (10℃, 30% RH and 20℃, 50% RH with an air velocity of less than 0.15 m·s^-1 and 1.5 m·s^-1). Ten males participated at 10℃ and 30% RH with an air velocity of less than 0.15 m·s^-1 and 1.5 m·s^-1. The results showed that the polyester ensemble was warmer than a goose down ensemble in 0.15 m·s^-1 conditions and the goose down ensemble had greater thermal insulation than the polyester ensemble at an air velocity of 1.5 m·s^-1. Thermal insulation was reduced 5-7% when temperature decreased 10℃ and reduced 40-50% when air velocity reached 1.5 m·s^-1 for both ensembles. Thermal insulation of the ensemble in human trials decreased more than a thermal manikin at 10℃, 30% RH with an air velocity of 1.5 m·s^-1. Lower temperatures and human trials were effective in identifying the properties of the thermal insulation by filling types even though there were restrictions on the general application because of two types of a clothing ensemble.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.77-92
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to investigate the public perception of Gorpcore through Big Aata analytics. The study was conducted based on the collection of Big Data on the word 'Gorpcore' through Textom from July 24, 2017 to March 31, 2023. As a result, 63,386 words were collected from a total of 18,879 posts, and the top 50 words were determined based on frequency of appearance. Based on the collected words, centrality measures and CONCOR algorithm were performed in Ucinet 6. The research results are as follows. 1) The frequency of appearance was high in the order of 'Gorpcore look', 'fashion', 'coordination', 'clothes', 'outdoor', 'Musinsa', 'look', 'trend', 'brand' and 'ahjussi (middle-aged old man in Korean)'. These words had high TF-IDF scores, which leads to the conclusion that these are key words that are recognized as important. 2) Network centrality shows that 'Gorpcore look', 'fashion', 'outdoor', 'coordination', 'clothes', 'trend', 'look' and 'style' have a high correlation with other words. Through this, it was found that the public thinks it is important to create a variety of fashions by styling high-performance outdoor wear and casual wear, and that they are highly interested in clothes and in brands leading the Gorpcore trend. 3) As a result of the CONCOR algorithm, four significant groups were formed. The words that appear in each group are as follows. Group 1 - 'outdoor', 'Gorp', 'Normcore', 'hiking', 'functionality', 'new', 'sports', 'casual wear', 'activity', 'generation', 'collaboration'. Group 2 - 'fashion', 'trend', 'look', 'brand', 'style', 'shoes', 'ugly', 'item', 'trend', 'product', 'Salomon', 'padded jacket', 'stylishness', 'utilization', 'Winter', 'street', 'design', 'retro', 'popular', 'styling'. Group 3 - 'Gorpcore look', 'coordination', 'Musinsa', 'windbreaker', 'recommendation', 'Arcteryx', 'pants', 'man'. Group 4 - 'clothes' 'ahjussi', 'jacket', 'launching', 'spring', 'The North Face', 'collection', 'utility', 'jumper'. As a result, it can be seen that the Gorpcore is also regarded as a part of outdoor, fashion, coordination, and casual wear.