• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.97-111
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• 2023

Dynamic orphism images expressed with abstraction and construction in color are often found in modern fashion. Orphism stressing color is one of the many art trends that influence fashion. This work aims to examin its expressive effects and characteristics that appear in fashion and provide basic materials for fashion design study. This study proceeds with the following steps. First, the study takes on a theoretical examination of the orphism trend using a literature review. Second, based on its results, modern fashion's expressive features influenced by orphism are analyzed. Third, the study draws expression effects in modern fashion from these characteristics. The study coverage is confined to domestic and foreign collections released in the 21st century. The study contents come from an Internet-base domestic and international database and published material, including dissertations and books. Orphism expression effects are found in the following ways in modern fashion. First, it lies in the abstraction effect of color. This feature arrays flat geometric figure on the clothing surface and applies a strong sense of color inside it, as if color has an abstractive structured design. Second, it gives a dynamic sense visually to the clothes all at once by stressing the relation among and between the colors with powerful contrast. Third, it has a collage effect of color. This effect develops into an organic combination composed of geometric plane figures with intense complementary colors in a single piece of clothing. Expression types that presents the orphism effect in fashion are divided into clothing showing traditional orphism characteristics faithfully and clothing expressing conventional orphism characteristics mixed with modern trends. Further developed orphism fashion can be classified by the playful type, with graffiti added onto an orphism color structure, and the destructive type, where traditional orphism color orders are taken apart and reformed into a new color order.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.18-32
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to find out the origin of perpetuity in the fashion design of Soma Delaunay, who was recognized as a unique designer in the 20th century. Her characteristics of fashion design appeared as dynamism in the incline of op-art using geometric pattern designed on the basis of abstract painting, color contrast between strong original colors, and repeated geometric patterns. The modern image can be explained as modernity in modern fashion and is continued in these days. The origins of modernity analyzed as follows. First, Soma Delaunay developed textile design, considering the use of clothing on the basis of scientific idea. Furthermore, she evolved traditional textile design and making process into a practical and rational way through developing new needlework technique. Second, she tried a new style through a straight silhouette in contrast to Art Nouveau style and the test and mixture of different genres. Third, she expressed the simultaneity of Orphism through the parallel structure of various colors. In particular, she used the contrast of strong and clear original colors to express a rhythm of dynamism and give visual interest through color. Finally, Soma Delaunay attempted to approach the public using clothing, furniture, and curtains with the focus on textiles. It may represent her intention to remove a gap between art and life by understanding the public and their life. As examined above, it can be sad that Soma Delaunay's scientific idea with the flow of industrialization, an open attitude not bound by a rule as an artist, an idea of Avant-garde, the comprehension of various colors and the understanding of the public. These factors lie at the bottom of her fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.85-95
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• 1986

Sonia Delaunay(1885$\~$1979) was one of great pioneers of abstract art, who looked at clothes and fabrics with a plastics eyes. In Association with her husband Robert Delaunay, they were instrumental in founding the movement of Orphism, she proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and had a brilliant influence on the decoration and women's fashion of the 1920's. Having a strong sense for dramatic and decorative color derived in part from childhood remembrances of Russian folk art she initiated a total revolution in which she created her first simultaneous dress with multi-colored samples of materials. She extended the principle of color's simultaneity to the field of fashion, fabric design and applied art. She was interested in the dress for ballet and opera. Fashion designer Paul Poiret asked her to design the fabrics and she created the geometric and abstract patterns with her strong color. It seemed that her design was revolutionary and avant-garde. Always she desired not only art of seeing but also art of living. The purpose of this study is to recognize the influence she had upon the history of modern fashion and fabric design. It was remarked that her paintings served as a basis for later developments in Kinetics Art and had influences on 1980' s abstract patterns for silk dress. Finally, the concept 'simultaneity' of her art signifies endless rhythmes in space and time.

• Korean Journal of Biological Psychiatry
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.167-176
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• 2007

Objectives:A considerable number of pharmacogenetic studies have been performed in recent years to define the association of antipsychotic drug response with dopamine receptor polymorphisms. The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between the therapeutic response to antipsychotic drugs and the polymorphisms of the dopamine D2, D3, and D4 receptor genes(DRD2, DRD3 and DRD4, respectively). Methods:We conducted retrospective chart review of 200 consecutively hospitalized patients with the diagnosis of schizophrenia(DSM-IV) who were treated with various antipsychotics(94% atypical antipsychotics) at Bugok National Hospital, Korea. The patients were divided into two groups, responders and non-responders, by responsiveness to antipsychotic drugs according to a four-point scale used in previous studies; responders included moderate to marked responded patients and non-responders included none to minimal responded patients. We analyzed the Ser311Cys polymorphism in the DRD2, the Ser9Gly polymorphism in the DRD3, and the exon III 48 bp repeat polymorphism in the DRD4. Results:Among the total patients of 200, 141(70.5%) were categorized as responders. There were no significant differences in the frequencies of the DRD2, DRD3, and DRD4 alleles and genotypes between responders and non-responders. Conclusion:These results suggest that the Ser311Cys polymorphism in the DRD2, the Ser9Gly polym- orphism in the DRD3, and the exon III 48bp repeat polymorphism in the DRD4 are not associated with the therapeutic response to antipsychotic drugs in Korean schizophrenic patients. A larger prospective study is needed to elucidate the association between antipsychotic response and dopamine receptor gene polymorphism.