• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제4권2호
• /
• pp.207-217
• /
• 1996

The founding of ching costume system starts from the rule issued in second year of Te-chong reign that the clothing of Manchu people is prohibited to be chinesized. It has undergone many revisions and is officially established in the 37th year of Chien-lung reign. This study is Emperor's costumes during the year in Chien-lung reign. The results are as follows: Emperor's costumes go to the travel are Chi-fu hat and Hsing-fu. Sea-dragon hat changes on otter skin or beaver hat and Ching-rong and ching-ni hat changes velvet hat. Light green informal wear is to be worn once a year. Name of sacrificial robes does not exist in Ching-hui-dien-tu but it take the place of Chao-fu I and Chao-dai II in Chuan-dai-dang-an. Sacrificial robes wear with indigo boots and the other cases wear blue boots and shoes and socks. The shape on ornaments in belt of sacrificial robes is tetragon style.

• 복식
• /
• 제65권6호
• /
• pp.112-132
• /
• 2015

Banya was a concubine slave of Shindon(辛旽) who was a powerful monk in late Goryeo Dynasty, as well as the mother of King Woo(禑王), a successor of King Gongmin(恭愍王). This study was undertaken to investigate the sources of costume for Banya. The study focused on the features of Buddhist service costume, street wear, and daywear for common women's costume during the prime age of the Buddhist culture. The study looked into Buddhist paintings, old documents, advanced research, and relics. There are three characteristics of historically investigated Buddhist service costume for Banya: Dallyeongpo(團領袍), long Jeogori made with black Ra(羅), and Jeogori with a long scarf. Skirt, under Jeogori, under skirt, Cho, Ra(羅), Neung (綾), Dan(緞), patterned ramie(紋紵), and Tapja(塔子) were included in all Buddhist service costume. And, street wear consisted of Women's Dapho(婦人搭忽), long Jeogori, skirt, underwear and black Ra beil(蒙首). Daywear consisted of Banbi(半臂), long Jeogori, and skirt, underwear made with cheap fabric, Ju(綢), ramie, and imported cotton. Plumper hair, silver comb and Biyeo, lining of light pink-colored thin silk(小紅薄絹), bronze openworked ornament that fixed the outerwear's opening, bronze needle case, Sutra box and heated gemstone could be matched for the Buddhist service costume. Bronze and heated gemstone could be used for ornaments of street wear and daywear. The investigation of ornaments was carried on by referring to presentation of overseas collections. Considering the limitation of the study on Goryeo costume due to the lack of research material, future studies including much more relics in oversea collections needs to be undertaken.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
• /
• 제9권7호
• /
• pp.171-183
• /
• 2009

고대의 정신세계는 인류의 사상의 근원이 되는 소중한 가치를 가지고 있다. 본 연구는 과학의 발달로 점차 소멸되어가는 인류의 근원적 정신세계를 고대 신화적 요소에서의 상징적 표현으로 나타나는 고대이집트 신들의 장신구로부터 연구하여, 신들의 장신구를 통해 반영되어진 고대인들의 정신세계의 독특한 인간관을 재조명하고자 한다. 이집트에서 장신구는 장식적 역할도 분명하지만, 그 근본적인 목적은 부적 즉, 신체의 취약한 부분에 지님으로써 신비적이고 적대적 힘으로부터 보호받기 위한 주술적 목적으로 사용되었다. 이러한 단면에서 시사하는 것처럼 인류는 인간 스스로 해결 할 수 없는 초월적인 문제를 초자연의 힘을 빌려 해결하려 하였고, 그 안에서 삶을 영위해가기를 추구하였다. 때문에 본 연구는 인류의 문명을 대표하고 있는 이집트 장신구의 형성 과정을 이집트 문화적 배경과 신화를 통해, 신들의 장신구에 내포되어 있는 정신적 의미와, 신들의 장신구의 역할이 무엇이었는지 알아보고, 또한 이집트인들이 신들의 장선 구를 통해 무엇을 염원하였는지 고찰하였다. 그 결과 이집트 신들의 장신구들은 첫째로 자연을 묘사하고 있었고 둘째는 선분의 상정, 성별의 구분과 종교의식의 의미를 지니고 있었으며 셋째로는 사후세계를 믿었음을 보여주었고 마지막으로 부활을 상징하고 있었다.

• 복식
• /
• 제36권
• /
• pp.121-137
• /
• 1998

This paper is a study of clothing recorded in$\boxDr$Shin Ching$\boxUl$.$\boxDr$Shin Ching$\boxUl$is the oldest poetry, which written in early west-Zhou to mid Spring and Autumn Period. In this book, clothing is classified with men's women's and fabrics. But only the men's costume is included in this paper, and others will be studied later. As a result, men's clothing includes Qui, Mian Fu, Bian Fu, Yi Shang, Po, Ze, the armour, the belt ornaments, the hair ornaments and the hair styles, the shoes. 1. Qui is depicted at 11 poetries. It's materials are sheep, wolf, bear etc. The materials and color are differentiated according to the class. 2. Mian Fu is depicted at 20 poetries. There are depictions about the embroidered black garment and a red skirt, and also about inner blouse, Chong er, Chi xi etc. 3. Bian Fu is depicted at 5 poetries and there are three types. 4. Yi Shang is depicted at 9 poetries and classified with two types. One is twp piece style, and the other is one pieced style. 5. Po and Ze is depicted at 1 poetry. Po is sa long coat with lining and Ze is a under-wear. The armour and the helmet are depicted at 2 poetries. 6. The belt ornaments are classified with two styles. One is decorational and the other is practical. At 7 poetries they are depicted. 7. The hair ornaments includes a hat and a hair style. Also, the shoes are depicted and there are two styles. Such a results can clarify the men's costumes of Zhou and may be a raw datas about the costumes of old China.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제28권3호
• /
• pp.356-375
• /
• 2020

The purpose of this study is to understand the characteristics and cultural values of the headdress among Chinese minorities with diverse ethnic cultures, and to provide various data on the design of clothing accessories. Theoretical considerations about ethnic minorities were addressed through literature and prior research, with data being collected using literature and websites. The results are as follows. First, the most common type of headdress is the horizontal type, which includes the head style, headband, and head scarf. The second most common is the cylinder type, which is a headdress with variations in the shape of a round hat, and has is evident among various minorities. Third, the pagoda type is decorated with ornaments mounted on top of a round shape. Fourth, the square crown type is a piece of wood as a material for a form of the material and for a variety of jewelry and the production of up to meet the women's head of the jewelry. Fifth, head belt-type ornaments consist of a headband and fancy bead ornaments from the bottom of the head. Mongol women usually wear an exaggerated form of this type. Sixth, the head cover type is a head decoration influenced by the dress code of Muslim women. Seventh is the disc type of crown shape worn by the Dai. Next, the ogival type is a cone-shaped headdress hat most commonly seen as head ornament hat among the Dai. Lastly, the sailboat type is the most exaggerated form of hair ornaments found among ethnic minorities.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제37권5호
• /
• pp.691-703
• /
• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제5권2호
• /
• pp.15-34
• /
• 2001

Ornaments are accessories for the decoration of the body or dress. They aren't unavoidably required one, but serve to make one's dress perfect as decorative industrial art objects. In Morocco, ornaments were initially used as a sign of social position or the class or an incantatory symbol. In effect, they were originally employed to adjust one's dress, not just for decoration, and they were of use for household economy. Gold, silver and handcraft available for exchange were a means of increasing one's property and an indication of social standing and wealth. In particular, the dress and jewelry of a bride was a measure of her family's wealth, regarded as a symbol of her chastity and value. The ornaments symbolically back up people's faith in supernatural power, and their real value is based on implicit form or way of decoration, not the external shape. Specifically, there is a tendency to use the form of animal as a protector, not one to frighten people. In the artistic tradition of Morocco, fish pattern stands for water and rain, and eagle and bird are considered to be related to fate. Scorpion and lizard are depicted as an inquirer of sun, and snake is a symbol of abundance and sexual instinct, being viewed to have an ability to cure disease. Turtle pattern is a symbol of saint because it protects one from the evil. The ornaments are made of gold, silver, amber, clam, garnet, glass, nielle, enamel, glaze, coral or tree, and symbolic patterns are used, including hand(a symbol of five numerals), turtle, lizard, scorpion, eye, triangle, bird and eggs. They are very big and diverse, being categorized into ornaments for the head or the chest, neckless, fibula, earring, bracelet and ring. For Moroccans, make-up is a sort of instinctive behavior to meet aesthetic and sexual desire. They also wear make-up for practical purpose of protection, intentionally inflict a wound on the skin for ceremonial or religious purpose, paint the skin with pigment, or have the part of the body tattooed for incantatory purpose. All this actions are regarded as make-up. The raw material of cosmetics is aker, a vegetable dye. They get the lips or cheeks turn red and paint eyebrows with yellow saffran powder to have a bad devil lose its strength. Tattooing is mainly done by women and viewed as a sign of their value or social organization they belong to. Sometimes that is used to represent a woman's being old enough to marry or getting married already or the frequency of marriage. Besides, tattoo is believed to prevent or remedy loose bowels or cough, depending on its location or pattern, and they often change tattoo according to the change of beauty art.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제4권4호
• /
• pp.327-338
• /
• 2002

The analysis and examination of this study are focussed on the external deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier. The external deconstruction is a way of expression faithful to the literal meaning of 'deconstruction' and is the applied case of exposure, destruction, poverty, and decomposition as they are. The method and scope of this study are from 1980's to present, and the followings are the results of this examination focussed on the various literature of philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and foreign fashion journals. The exposure phenomena through the deconstruction expressed repeatedly in the works of Gaultier deconstructed the fixed idea of 'the inner wear should be worn inside the outer wear' and at the same time denied the dichotomical interpretation of the exposure and suppression, the traditional beauty and decadent beauty, the chastity and unchastity, the asceticism and sexuality, and obscured the notion of the inner wear and outer wear. The destructive deconstruction expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier introduced the elements such as hippy, punk, and kitsch, slashed before making dresses, crumpled unseemly like wastepaper, or made dresses with textures like paper scraps, and through destroying textures, yielded shock effects and tension. Poverty, through borrowing from the outwardly poor-looking elements of design, i.e. the patch work, decolor, dye, fading, fringing, incompletion, and handmadeness, liberated dresses and their ornaments from the outside. The traditional dresses were dresses having certain forms with formative beauty, but Gaultier disassembled dresses and raised questions about the logic of dresses themselves.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제2권3호
• /
• pp.137-156
• /
• 1998

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제44권10호
• /
• pp.79-90
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to make new suggestions for the production of high value-added, fashion goods by reviewing and synthesizing the design of dress shirts. (Ed-I've combined paragraphs here) For this study, 1491 photographs on the dress shirts were collected for analysis from men's collection$(2001\sim2006)$. Concerning the actual characteristics of men's fashion design, the following conclusions were obtained from the analysis of the dress shirts of men's collection. (Ed-I've combined paragraphs here) First, feminine ornaments such as frill, pin tuck, and embroidery can be seen in men's dress shirts and men's sexuality has changed into a softer men's image. Second, asymmetry balance using detachability are expressed in the collars, sleeves, and plackets of men's dress shirts. Third, in a very novel suggestion, a combination of two items was designed in a dress shirt and variant shirt forms were created. Fourth, formal style is mainly shown in men's shirts and the traditional classic is increasingly becoming emphasized recently