• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.87-96
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• 2009

Dangui is a formal dress of the wives of high officers and royalty in Chosun Dynasty and it was worn as a day dress in palace and a semi-ceremonial dress in upper-class households. Among the remains of Dangui a double-layered Dangui was found in which two sets of Dangui were combined to be worn as a single piece. The double-layered Dangui consists of an Over-Dangui and an Under-Dangui. The results of the examination of the remains for the Over-Dangui are as follows. As lone as the colors of the remains are identifiable, all of the Over-Dangui were green, whereas the Under-Dangui and lining materials were red. The textile was mostly in woven silk with pattern and it was frequently decorated with golden wefts or foils. A breast embroidery with phoenix and a dragon embroidery were also found. Such Dangui was worn mostly by the high members of the king's palace including the queen, crown princess, bastard princess, and monarch. There were two exceptions of wearing Dangui outside the king's palace. A simple Under-Dangui was made to enable a comfort fit of the two sets of Dangui and the suture was partially sewn. With three doth strings and cuffs, two pieces of Dangui were eventually assembled into one piece of clothing. Differences between the remains and the documents were also found in regards to textile and wearers of Dangui.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.73-86
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• 2014

Persimmon juice dye-printed fabrics with printing were used for a Galot one-piece dress. The Galot dress was assessed in comparison to a white undyed one-piece dress of the same design through a wearing test conducted in a climatic chamber with an air temperature of $30{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, $50{\pm}5%$ R.H, and 0.2m/sec air movement on 4 healthy female subjects in their 20s. The subjects went through a 30-min stable period, a 30-min exercise of walking on a $5^{\circ}$ slope treadmill at 70m/min period, and a 20-min recovery period. In addition, a physiological reaction and subjective sensation were estimated. The results showed that significant differences were mostly observed from a sweating period that occurred during the latter half of the exercise. More specific results are as follows. First, skin temperature on the chest and mean skin temperature were significantly higher (p<.01) in rayon dyed sample dresses. Second, micro-humidity on the back showed a significant difference (p<.01). Both cotton and rayon persimmon juice dyed sample dresses produced lower microhumidity than their counterparts and as for cotton the difference occurred over the entire experimental period; however, it occurred after the middle of the exercise period for rayon. Third, the sweating rate on the back decreased in both cotton and rayon with persimmon juice dye but no significant difference was observed. Fourth, subjective three sensations revealed significant differences between cotton and rayon (p<.01), indicating that the subjects felt more cool, dryer and more comfortable in a cotton Galot. As described above, the analysis of physiological responses and the subjective sensation of undyed and dyed clothing shows the effect of persimmon juice dyeing. Persimmon juice dyeing also seemly increased air permeability, moisture regain and permeability facilitating body heat ventilation, as micro-humidity and sweat rate were lowered. However, this was not shown consistently in subjective responses on comfort especially when wearing rayon dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.163-171
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• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on he past costume is getting more importance and as the methodology of the study the accurately ap-proached study through the rehabilitation of the past costume is more needed than the simple re-arrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The S-line silhouette remains be-cause of the straight silhouette or the blossom style bodice. This dress has various types of sil-houette but generally it forms one silhouette and is one-piece. 2) color and Material: The material varies hile the color is divided as the main color of ivory and the stress color of brown. This shows not only that the material has been varied but also that they tried to reduce the monotony. 3) Pattern and Sewing: The simple external figure and the previous stage typically shows the movement to the simplicity of the contemporary and the num-ber of patterens is plenty and the sewing method is also complex. 4) Detail. To overcome the simplicity of the style and to show the characteristics of the afternoon dress the skunk fur the net the sash, and the bow are used. 5) Structural Characteristics: The front open-ing the back opening and the side opening coexists in one-pieced dress and this forms unique structure and complex fastening device. The ribbon tape and casing not only finish the seam but also fix the shape of the dress. Synthetically the 1913-14 afternoon dress has the characteristics of transitional stage in which the characteristics of the costume of 1910s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the character-istics of afternoon dress well in terms of the ma-terial the structure and the detail.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.85-98
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• 2002

This study aims to present basic data on current uniforms for the practical improvement and quality betterment of their design by investigating and analysing the uniform designs worn by employees working in department stores, shopping malls and financial firms. For the research, after taking pictures of employees wearing uniforms from various occupations in Daejeon area from April 15 to May 24, 2001, the uniform styles, and the shape, color and pattern of each item were analysed by a group of four costume experts. The result is as follows: First, the uniform forms are classified by the style, and silhouette. It was found that the overall silhouette mostly consisted of hourglass silhouette, and two-piece suits. Second, for the color of each item, black was the most common color for the jacket, skirt, pants and white for the one-piece dress. Third, plain, abstract, and striped patterns, and polka dots were used for the uniforms. Among them the plain pattern accounts for the highest rate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.6
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• pp.161-175
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• 2014

This paper investigates the differences between characteristics of street fashions due to regional and cultural differences in southern and northern region of China. Beijing and Shenzhen were chosen as representative cities for the two areas. Empirical research and literature study were performed for this study. Empirical studies were performed by using a total of 708 images of dresses, which were collected through direct imaging. Through discussion with experts, the collected data were classified into five categories; Modern trendy, Romantic, Easy casual, Ethnic, and Classical/Traditional. The data was analyzed by using cross tabulation and frequency analysis. Content analysis for each category was also conducted. As a consequence of this study, a significant difference between Beijing and Shenzhen were observed. As a city, which puts emphasis on practicality and modernity, Beijing showed a higher frequency of modern and trendy style than the other city. On the other hand, Shenzhen showed a higher frequency of romantic style and was distinguished as a city of femininity and decorative preference of fashion style. This study intends to contribute to the academic community of Chinese fashion and to help Korean clothing companies to be launched in Chinese market in the future.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the proper combination of ensemble suit details for the body silhouette of elderly women. In this study, the principal component analysis was used to search for the proper combination of suit details for covering defects of body which has been changed unbalanced. The designs of evaluated suits were manipulated in 18 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, neckline(round neckline, shirt collar, tailored collar), types of one-piece dress(pleats type, gather type, flare type), and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analyzed by mean, paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results were summarized as follows: In case of normal body type, it had complementary effects for upper body with closed round neckline jacket or shirt collar jacket, and for lower and the whole body with a combination of closed tailored collar jacket or shirt collar jacket with pleats or gored type one piece dress. The visual effect for elderly women's body shape was different in opened or closed jacket. And that enhanced by Jacket with collar.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.79-88
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to propose the design of the patient's clothes for a disabled child between 4 and 6. For this, in this study, I would present the following design plan which includes 3 upper garments, 2 trousers and a one-piece dress. In case of the damage on head and neck, a neck line should be deep and wide thereby providing ease to the clothes. To facilitate injection and dressing/undressing, there should be parting from neck to cuff which can be fixed by snap or button. By rolling up sleeves with strings inside the cuffs and fixating plaster cast with snap button outside the cuffs. In case of body cast with plaster cast around body part, front adjusting part should be wider and the width should be adjusted with strings. In case of hip spica cast which covers waist, I separated front part and rear part, fixated them with snap buttons, gave more width to front adjusting part with strings to adjust width, which constitute one-piece dress. In case of shoulder spica cast, the other shoulder which is not covered with plaster cast should be exposed, and to prevent clothes' coming down, strings with snap button or velcro should be attached over a shoulder so that the length of the strings can be adjusted. In case of applying plaster cast or aid to the whole part of a leg, one part of trousers should be shorter so as to expose the injured part and there should be a parting with strings or velcros on the side for easy dressing/undressing. When plaster cast or splint is short, The strings are meant to adjust length of trousers. The partings are located 2 cm from side lines toward the center.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.532-542
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• 2014

This study developed a practical knitwear design with applying the pattern of Queen Yeong's pearl pouch. The ume flower pattern of pearl pouch was simplified to be one repeat pattern, and four simulated knit pattern samples of G-A, G-B, R-A, and R-Bwere made with cable, cross, and two background colors of gray and red using Texpro V.11.0. The items of design application were selected after an interview with a panel of university students in their twenties and knit samples were produced by hand knitting. The small sized G-A for the partial ornament of hat, sweater, skirt, kitchenware case and accessories; the long sized G-B for the tuck of sleeves, hem of skirt and one-piece dress, partial ornament of sweater, scarf, and curtain decoration: the small sized R-A was preferred for point ornament of pouch, boots, hat, partial ornament of children's fashion products and accessories: the long sized R-B for table runner, leg warmer, tuck of sleeves, skirt hem, necktie, and scarf. The knit samples were formulated with partial ornaments attached on dress and props or connected each other. Colors of pastel and navy were also presented to meet the demands of panels. The study placed a limit on the slight difference between the simulation samples and knit samples due to the characteristics of threads and hand tension. The color variation for multiple coordination and activation to reduce the piece rate for young customers remains to be discussed in the near future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.838-847
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• 2011

The object of this study is as follows. First, according to the silhouette of clothes, I will search the relationship with the embroidery design. Second, I will investigate the relation of coloration about the clothes color and embroidery color. Third, I will search the relation with the image in clothes and embroidery design characteristic. The data acquisition is selected to the total 447 pictures of embroidery clothing design from the www.style.com, www.samsungdesign.net which are the related information site. The data are limited from S/S season in 2004 till F/W season in 2008 in the Paris, Milano, and New York collection. The analytical method was made through the analyze method and statistical method. First, on the relation with the clothes silhouette and embroidery design, if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the X-shaped or A-line silhouette in the one-piece and dress, the image which is elegant and feminine can be expressed. if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the H-line silhouette in jacket and court, the mannish image can be expressed. Second, the embroidery color showed up as the contrast combination of the monotone when the clothes color was the monochrome. And the embroidery color showed up as the tone in which is bright and sober when clothes color had 2 or 3 or 4. So, if the embroidery color is utilized as the similar color scheme, it will be effective. Third, if the embroidery technique of the one-piece and dress is utilized as the the satin stitch technique and the bloom and leaf motive being stylized pattern is used in the all-over and border pattern, It will be effective to express the romantic/feminine, ethnic/folklore, active, and classic image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.854-864
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• 1997

This study was initiated to develop a uniform design suitable for child inpatients. The experimental hospital inpatient uniform design was developed based on the results of the prior studies. The panel was composed of 5 experienced nurses and 5 clothing specialists. They evaluated the function of the experimental inpatient uniforms developed in this study. The experimental hospital gown design was reformed based on the panel's evaluation.1'hen the child inpatients performed the wear test for the reformed experimental hospital gown. The results of the study are as follows; 1. The child inpatient hospital gown design of the most hospitals were similar to the adult patient's uniform : the V-neckline shirts with full length set-in sleeves. The bottom was full length pull-on pants. The fabric was white cotton with blue hospital logo and stripe print in most cases. 2. The panel's specialty affected the evaluation of the uniform design. The nurses concerned about the durability after washing and ease for medical treatment. The clothing specialists cared about the features related to the clothing construction and ease for physical movement of body. 3. The most preferred hospital inpatient uniform design by the panels was the shirts or one- piece gown with three-quarter length sleeve and overarm seam opening. 4. The researchers developed one-piece dress gown for the children under two years old. Three different size pajamas were developed for children 2∼5 years old,5∼8 years and 8∼12 years old.