• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권11호
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• pp.1516-1523
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• 2004

The purpose of this study were to analyze the effect of weft knit structural characteristics on the subjective texture and sensibility. For this, the material was knitted into 8 kinds of weft plain knit fabrics with four kinds of fiber components such as wool, acryl, rayon, and nylon, 3 steps of densities and 3 steps of twist numbers to ply two yarns. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA and multidimensional scaling. From factor analysis, subjective textures were categorized as 'bulk/resilience', 'surface/density' and 'soft/drape', and subjective sensibilities were categorized as 'natural/comfortable', 'feminine/elegance' and 'stable/neat' Among the knit structural characteristics, the component of fibers and the density of fabrics were the important factors to give variations in texture and sensibility : In comparison with wool knit of medium density, the knit fabrics of other components and different densities each showed a unique texture and sensibility. But twist number to ply two yams had a few influence on subjective properties. As a result of MDS analysis, the texture and sensibility of plain weft knit fabrics was classified as 'thin-full', 'hard-soft', 'young-old' and 'warm-cool'.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.116-126
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• 1998

This study was conducted to examine the effect of difference in materials of aerobic wear on both human body's physiological reactions and subjective wearing sensation by comparing and analysing not only cotton sparidex A, B and C but nylon spandex D, E and F used as actually wearing materials. The rectal temperature of type A and I remained at high degree, the type C was higher from after high-speed running but dropped sharply when taking a break finally. Both skin temperature and mean skin temperature dropped sharply due to sweat occurred during physical exercise, and then rose slowly when taking a break. Type A -D and B-I showed that the mean skin temperature remained at high degree when wearing a cotton spandex. Type C's temperature within its aerobic wear was lower than type F while its relative humidity was higher than type F. Wearing sensation showed a change similar to wearing, particularly, which was remarkable in type B-E. Also, it was shown that humidity sensation, tactile sensation and comfort sensation were good when wearing the cotton spandex.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2002

Today, great percentage of apparel fabrics comprise knit products. A few apparel items are almost exclusively made from knit products including sweaters, T-shirts, lingerie, and hosiery. In weft knits, intermeshing yarn traverses the fabric crosswise. The production rate of knitting machines is about four times higher than that of conventional looms iin proportion to the amount of fabric produced per unit time. Knit apparels fabrics are noted for freedom of body movement, easy-care, resilience, soft draping and quality. The appearance of fabrics is of prime importance along with tactile features such as smoothness, crispness, stiffness when we deal with the handling evaluation of the textiles. In practice, the quality and performance of fabrics judged by sighted evaluators, and it is perhaps logical, in attempting to establish an effective fabric objective measurement system. It is worthwhile to make objective measurement that correlate well with subjective evaluations made by sight and touch together. However, it often imposes difficulties to effectively measure and analyze the appearance or optical properties of the textile surface features. In this study, an attempt is made to provide a preliminary approach to the analysis of the gloss property, which is one of the optical properties of fabrics. The specimens range from 70/24 nylon 6 filament yarn knit fabric to 70/68 nylon 6 filament yarn knit fabric, the latter being finer. A few three-dimensional models based on Peirce's model of knit stitch have been proposed and material properties were given to calculate the properties. Goniophotometric measurements of the specimens were also carried out.

• 감성과학
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.141-148
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 생체모방기술을 응용하여 감성의류용 구조발색사를 방사하고, 이를 사용하여 직물을 제직 감량 가공하여 이들의 발색성 및 촉감 물성을 측정하여 감성의류용 용도의 적용성을 확인하여 다음과 같은 연구결과를 얻었다. 삼각단면을 가진 37층의 폴리에스테르와 나일론을 교호로 적층한 구조발색사의 방사조건을 확립하였으며, 이 세 가지 사의 발색성을 multi angle spectro-photometer로 확인하였다. 그리고 이 사들로 제직한 구조발색 직물 세 가지의 겉보기 색차와 반사율을 분석한 결과, 700nm에서 400nm까지의 파장에서 발색성을 확인하였다. 또한, 직물의 밀도와 조직이 다른 세 가지 구조발색 직물을 제직하고 감량 가공 처리하여 직물 역학특성치에서 촉감을 측정한 결과, $100^{\circ}C$, 60분 감량 처리한 시료가 최적설계(194ends/in ${\times}$ 105picks/in) 및 감량 조건임을 확인할 수 있었다. 그리고 감량 처리 시 온도와 처리시간 증가에 따라 감량률이 13%에서 최대 23%까지 증가함을 확인할 수 있었다. 이때 직물의 신축특성, 굽힘강성 및 전단강성은 감소하며 압축특성은 증가하는 현상을 보였다. 그리고 최적설계조건인 1번 직물시료를 $100^{\circ}C$, 60분 감량 처리할 때 촉감이 가장 우수하며 일본 몰포 직물보다 더 우수한 촉감치를 얻었다.