• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.35-50
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• 2010

In this dissertation, the analysis of the study of female customs from late Joseon Dynasty and their genre painting to research humors and its aesthetic senses in that certain era. The purpose of the genre paintings is to look at general populations in an objective point of view and endeavor better value of public life style to embody clear understandings of humanity. The artists such as Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed their arts based on reasonable reality with sarcastic but humorous and creative ways to criticize the society's problems with clear statements. Therefore, the formative characters are realism, exaggeration and coloring of the whole arts that represents as innovative and original genre of it's time. Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed the women in society as open minded with versatile and refined looks in their paintings as the reality was repressed and closed mind for women figures in late Joseon Dynasty. The female customs in the paintings has both suppression and expression in their dresses and exaggerated shapes of accessories and the use of color were also found. All of these elements has the aesthetic values of satirized eroticism, the hint of next evolution of the late Joseon Era under the conservative disposition of social characters and freedom of expression of playfulness. These elements were new developments and a step forward of female 'sex' and expression of satirized eroticism. The exaggerated and distorted forms and accessories demonstrates unbalanced and asymmetrical elements in humorous characters and they include spontaneity. Also, using the five traditional color schemes of Korean art displays humor in playfulness of an art with splendid and purity, duality of positiveness and artless, smart and elegance looks.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.629-647
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• 2017

As fashion has concentrated increasingly on inner values, it has become more directly connected with human life and society. This study analyzed anti-fashion, a movement that resists mainstream society and culture, which it views as causing inner conflicts such as competition, mammonism, consumerism, and egoism by fixating solely on the pursuit of growth and improvement. The study examined Kinfolk, an independent lifestyle magazine, to determine the essential values and principles that comprise this movement's refusal of mainstream modern society. The analysis of Kinfolk identified the following characteristics of, the Kinfolk lifestyle: essentialism, nature-friendliness, retro sensibilities, socio-ethical awareness, and diversity. Essentialism refers to the pursuit of essence, brevity, innovation based on tradition and slow life. Nature-friendliness involves communion with nature and humanity, animal-friendliness, de-industrialization, de-urbanization, and nomadic behavior. The components of the retro sensibility include nostalgia, and interests in vintage culture, and handcrafts. Diversity encompasses commonplaceness, various subcultures, agelessness, genderlessness, acceptance of other cultures, and new understanding. The analysis identified the tendencies of anti-fashion in Kinfolk magazine as simplicity, naturalism, resistance to novelty, ethics, and inclusiveness. Anti-fashion pursues the essential values of human life that have been lost or forgotten in modern society. It is important to pay constant attention to the values of minority, non-mainstream and indie cultures that represent anti-fashion. It exerts considerable influence and has great potential as an area for the development of various style-based paradigms rather than as a single fashion direction.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.133-149
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• 2007

Amid a wave of informatization, the world is allowing diverse exchanges and cooperations in the global village to be promoted. And, a change in the life environment and the consumption pattern allows the key word in distribution revolution called 'online' and 'emotion' to be recalled. As the emotion is being positioned as the trend of the new era, this study has its significance in that even the fashion industry desperately requires the emotion marketing aiming at the artistic value and practicality in fashion and the creation in value-added, and requires the development and utilization plan for diverse VMD programs on the rational dress shop, like the successful case of the trendy shop such as America's large bookstore 'Barnes & Noble.' Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to design and suggest the virtually trendy dress shop as one plan of utilizing VMD, by examining about the fashion business environment and about 'emotion trend' according to the consumer purchase needs, and through researching into the cases of the trendy dress shops with the emotion marketing. The virtual trendy dress shop 'Muse,' which was proposed as its research result, was designed with having the main concept as urban naturalism, which points to the urban and sophisticated coordination, and to the simple personality and rational value, as one method of utilizing VMD in the differentiated dress shop. And, it is desired to be performed the researches on the development and the utilization plan for diverse VMD programs in the dress shop down the road.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제23권
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• pp.33-55
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• 2011

In the late Japanese colonial period, from the Sino-Japanese War until the Pacific War, critical discourses on the modern were prevalent in Japan and the Joseon. Despite the absence of a consensus about the specific definition of the modern, most thinkers agreed that the modern was something to be overcome. While some regarded naturalism and capitalism of the West as the essence of the modern, some others named scientism and humanism as the nature of the western modernity. Additionally, some criticized the temporal concept of historicism and brought new meanings of 'tradition' into relief, and some others advocated overcoming 'the West inherent in us'. This study is to consider the temporality of the theory of overcoming the modern focusing on the following three notions-world history, tradition, and emergency-, and examines the antinomy of them. The first notion to consider is 'world history'. The theorists of overcoming the modern, including the Kyoto school, discarded the progressive ideology that had led the Western modern history, and instead introduced 'world history' as a new notion. Although this resulted from the imperialistic embracement of the theories of Ranke, a major positivist historian from Germany, it contained antinomy of remaining in 'history' which was the modern temporal view. The second notion is 'tradition'. While the critical mind of 'world history' brought 'time of world' into question in the context of temporal realization, the notion of 'tradition' was to understand 'time of history' itself as the modern and overcome it. The critical mind of the notion involves the attempts to criticize regarding history as a 'progressive' process and to discover tradition as 'the present past' or 'the eternal present'. However, it also contained antinomy; the 'tradition' here was a notion that was created in the modern times, not passed down from ancient times. The third notion to consider is 'emergency', which was a method to define the present time as a transition period toward a new era, relating to states of war. However, the theorists of overcoming the modern did not regard 'emergency' as a particular time that strayed from normal states, instead they thought is as 'a regularized exceptional state', namely 'a state in which exceptions have become regulations'. However, the notion also contained antinomy since the word 'emergency' connotes abnormality.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제6권
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• pp.81-99
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• 2004

For making something to use as a tool since the emergence of mankind, the initial pragmatic purpose has transformed into a new genre of art over time. Things defined like this have rooted in our culture as tradition so far. In the midst of today's various trends, a reflection of tradition and a modern search for tradition by re-creating it are much more needed. To any people in any time, a new trend would undeniably develop on the basis of its previous tradition in any form. The colors appearing in such artwork are also an expression of each people's unconscious potentiality as essential grounds for human aesthetic. The traditional Korean Bojaki, which was made out of women's pragmatic mind trying to recycle trashy pieces of cloth in the 19th century of Chosun Dynasty, appears as a symbolization of our nation's original form in unconsciousness. It includes Confucianism, Buddhism, Zen and the Yin-Yang and Five Elements thought, which have been together with naturalism. The five colors appearing in the Yin-Yang and Five Elements are the basis. Fourteen selected samples around the five colors seen in the color scheme of the Chosun era's Bojaki were measured and their color values were found by analyzing them based on HCV(Hue, Chroma, Value)of the five primary colors as well as the five secondary colors. After choosing a few colors with bare eyes close to traditional Primary Colors and Secondary Colors amongst 14 pieces of data which particularly used traditional Five Colors and examining them using spectrophotometer(JX777), the following conclusions were drawn. Comparing only colors in Primary Colors, the result was red 7.11R 4.59/10.69, blue 6.71PB 3.18/6.45, yellow 3.91Y 7.56/6.12, respectively. With regard to Secondary Colors, it was reported that red 7.96RP 5.42/10.3, blue 7.8B 5.16/5.53, green 8.03GY 6.05/4.34, yellow 2.73Y 7.47/4.07, purple 2.39RP 4.69/4.56, respectively. (diagram) As a result, the standard of Five Colors can be used in modern fiber color. There are differences in dyeing material, methods and kinds of fiber of that time, but women of Chosun Dynasty combined and made fabric which was circulated. Consequently, an applicable attribute of the aye-color values was considered.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.19-33
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• 2002

In the middle of economic and mental riches in the 21st century, the importance of well being and the pursuit of happiness are emerging as the new trend. Thus the lifestyle that values comfortable and practical naturalness and intrinsic merits has come to influence the human life rather than the old showing-off and formal desire. In addition to this, the spread of the five day week has given more leisure time, which has led to the increasing interest in health and leisure. The interest in sports has skyrocketed since the successful holding of the 2002 Korea and Japan World Cup event. All these changes to the lifestyle have contributed to the fusion of luxury wear and sports wear. As the result of the consumers in the 21st century having more classified and upgraded way of living thanks to the settlement of the above-mentioned lifestyle and the enlargement of the leisure sports culture, there has appeared the wellness kin, who value the importance of life and the nature and believe in the idea that they can reconstruct the environment in the way they can enjoy their lifestyle and pursue happiness. They favor healthy fashion items and think much of exercise, nutrition, and rest. They pursue the natural and comfortable style, whose ideas came from simple exercises such as health training and yoga and the easy and comfortable look observed at resorts. Their fashion style can be divided into three of fitness fashion, yoga fashion and resort fashion. First, the boxer fashion is characterized by the relaxing design and practicality. The major items of the fashion include running shirt-styled upper clothes, training pants, hooded shirts and sneakers. Simple and comfortable look should be induced from the combination of the items. Second, the yoga fashion was motivated by the comfortable yoga wear. It advocates stress-free spirit and comfortable and stable naturalism. Along with the advantages of the good feeling to wear and the functionality to help exercise better, the yoga fashion gives the wearer enough room to move around in, using the unique lines. Third, the resort wear refers to the kinds of clothes you tend to wear at the beach and the park. There are various kinds of the resort look; bathing suits, the beach wear you can wear with the bathing suit, the resort evening wear, the full-side look that you try on top of the bathing suit and is made of the same material of the bathing suit, and the marine look, the symbol of the summer. In short, the study attempted to investigate many trends occurring as the result of human recent increasing interest and concern in the quality of life, and the impacts of them on the fashion world. This kind of research that examines the background of the times and society will help to grasp with the fashion trends of the present and the future. And more studies should be conducted on the development of new and original design in clothes fashion, which reflects the characteristics identified in this kind of research.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제7권11호
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• pp.175-181
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• 2007

디자인원형은 조형원리인 성상적인 면과 물리적인 성격의 형상적인 면으로 설명되어진다. 원형은 문화전반의 사상과 배경의 핵심으로 생활 공예 및 건축, 미술의 제작의도와 작업 행위에 해당되는 것으로 한 민족의 문화와 예술 그리고 생활 전반에 내재한 공통분모라 할 수 있다. 우리는 새로운 문화를 흡수, 통합하는 과정에서 시 공간을 축으로 하여 디자인 원형을 형성시켜왔다. 현대 한국 디자인의 원형은 조선 후기로 볼 수 있는데 상층문화와 기층문화가 융합하면서 활발한 문화가 전개되었고, 이런 조선의 문화와 예술은 오늘날 우리 디자인과 한국 미의 근간이 되어 있음은 부정할 수 없다. 디자인 원형을 형성시킴에는 지형과 기후 등과 같은 자연 환경적 요소가 무엇보다 중요하며 이런 자연 환경적 요소는 건축과 실내 환경의 형태뿐만 아니라 예술과 생활 공예 전반의 디자인 의식을 주도해왔다. 한국디자인은 우리 민족의 기질과 정서로서 명분과 본능에 충실한 장인 정신을 낳았고 이성보다는 감성적 유희성의 작업을 가능하게 하여, 재료와 형태감에 순응하게 하는 자연주의를 형성시켜왔다. 이와 같은 우리의 디자인 원형의 경로 추적과 연구는 미래 사회의 새로운 디자인 identity의 에너지로써 우리의 디자인 발전에 중요한 테마라 할 수 있다.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.63-83
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• 2011

This study aims to prove the changes, development and social background of Korean male cosmetics over the period of 2000-2010. There were total 574 articles written about male make-up and cosmetics in Chosun Daily, Joongang Daily and Donga Daily, which are the top three Korean local daily newspapers in terms of sales revenue for that period. These articles were analyzed together with social background research from various books and daily newspapers. The analysis of articles was divided into different categories; such as foundation cosmetics, color cosmetics, hair, and the social background. It was found that the articles related to foundation cosmetics were written the most, the articles related to male appearance management were second, articles on other items including how to manage the skin being the least. As for the social background of Korean male cosmetics, first of all, a change in social recognition can be pointed out. The traditional understanding of gender roles has changed, men's appearance management has started to be regarded as a competitive talent, and at the same time, the esthetic viewpoint for men also has changed. One example is the newly made popular term, "flower-handsome man", which shows the new trend of favoring males with nice skin. Second, the expansion of mass culture can be pointed out. As consumers can get information and fashion trends easier and faster, the fashion spreads fast, and this has led to the generalization and popularization of the sense of beauty. Third, the development of scientific technology and medical science can be pointed out. Thanks to the progress in those areas. the extension of youthfulness has become possible and the cosmetics industry was also affected greatly, as shown in the market spread of functional products for anti-ageing and wrinkle control as the interest in anti-ageing has grown. There are benefits from the development of scientific technology, but the problem of environmental pollution has appeared due to machinery and industrialization and thus the issue of well-being has been raised. Rising interest in naturalism, pro-environmentalism and organic cosmetics has influenced the cosmetics industry. In addition, the quantity of ultraviolet rays exposed to our skin has increased due to the air pollution caused by the destruction of environment, leading to increased usage of sun block lotion. Lastly, the influence of consumer society and the expansion of consumerism culture can be pointed out. In the modern society, consumption acts not only as the use of products and services but it also has an important role of mediating individuals with others and the society. The market for male cosmetics has been expanding and the number of men putting on make-up has been increasing rapidly. Therefore, this study is meaningful in that the analysis of the mode of change and the social background are an essential process in order to provide a direction for the future market for male cosmetics.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.33-45
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• 2003

This is a study that examines the fashion changes in the 20th century in terms of various subcultures in the period. Starting from defining the concept and the developing process of subculture, this study traces the history of subcultural styles from 1930s to 1990s, focusing on the way each generation resisted the main stream through its styles. This study is intended to provide a theoretical frame on the understanding of subcultural styles, with a close examination of its formative and developing process and characteristics. This study understands subcultural style as a way of deviate or resistant expression within a society. It differentiates itself from the main style by deliberately and publicly asserting its own identity, and, as a result, realizes in the form of fashion its repressed subconsciousness, resistance to the alienation from the society, and deviation from the normative ethics and morality of a society. The four types of subcultural styles presented in chapter 4 are based on their form of resistance, and they are classified and analyzed as follows: The first type is revision, which tries to revise and change the given form by adding new elements. There are two kinds of revision, one is dressing up, which dresses for success, and the other is minimal dressing. Hyperbole is the second type, which resists by emphasizing or hyperbolizing the main stream with its erotic, nihilistic, or dynamic forms. Two kinds of hyperbole are examined, one is hyperbole of masculinity, and the other is ostentatious hyperbole. The third type is reversal and rejection, which reverses the forms from the established sign system into its own secret code, or rejects the traditional taboos. This type include no dressing, and the reversal of sex identity. Isolation and redrawal is the fourth type, which tries to distance itself from the ritual code of the day. This type is divided into dressing of the escape from time, and dressing of the escape from space. The first group of this type is characterized by nostalgia or futurism. An emphasis is given on ethnicity, naturalism, or a closed space within a city in dressing of the escape from space. In conclusion, it can be said that subcultural style puts the foremost importance on individual freedom. Since 1990s, the distinction between the subcultural styles and high fashion gets somewhat blurred, while the liberal, sexual, life stylistic tension between the two groups are heightened.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.62-69
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• 2013

자연적, 환경적 문제를 가진 현대에서 빛을 발하고 있는 자연식재는 와일드 가든(wild garden)에서 그 원류를 찾을 수 있다. 윌리암 로빈슨(William Robinson)이 시초가 되고, 거투르드 제킬(Gerturde Jekyll)이 구체적으로 형상화하였다. 특히, 와일드 가든은 현대정원의 가장 중요한 화두가 될 수 있는 생태적 설계의 예고와 내츄럴리즘의 분화과정에 중요한 초석이 되었다는 점에서 재조명해 볼 필요가 있다. 본 연구는 로빈슨의 주택 그래비티 매너(Gravety Manor)와 제킬의 주택 먼스태드우드(Munstead Wood)를 통해 와일드 가든의 개념적인 모형을 정확히 유추해 보고, 역사적인 의의를 찾고자 하는 것이다. 연구의 결과를 요약하면, 첫째, 공간 구성 면에서는 기본적인 코타지 가든의 영감을 이어받아 비정형의 형식을 도입하였다. 둘째, 소재의 사용 면에서는 여행을 통해 다양한 기후를 접하면서 식물의 내한성과 외래종에 대한 이해를 바탕으로 자생식물과 귀화식물을 같이 사용하였다. 또한 숲 하부 식재와 산림지역에 관심을 가졌다. 셋째, 디자인 기법 면에서는 색감과 질감에 대해 각 개별 식물 및 상호간의 관계에 관해 연구하여 자연의 축소판과 같은 다양한 경관을 연출하였다. 넷째, 유지관리 면에서는 식물이 가진 본래의 성질대로 살 수 있는 최소한의 유지관리를 위한 방식을 기본으로 하였다.