• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.431-446
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to analyze the gender role changes of Korean women reflected on their costumes during 20th century. To analyze the diachronic gender role changes, social environments(education, job, economy, family systems, mass-media) of 20 th century were inquired by 10 years and comparatively analyzed with 680 images of representative costumes each periods. The results are as followed. 1) $1900s{\sim}1910s$: The most representative women's gender role was a wise mother and good wife. Therefore the adopted western costume, a symbol of civilization, were represented women as a passive and sexual object of man. 2) $1920s{\sim}1930s$: 'Shin Yeosung(Modern Girl)' was the representative gender role of that time. They were the symbol of enlightenment and new education. Their costumes influenced to the changes of traditional Hanbok in functional side. 3) $1940s{\sim}1950s$: In World War II. a strong and stubborn women were wanted to support their family. They threw feminity and changed their costumes into an active and functional 'Mombbe'. 4) $1960s{\sim}1970s$: Women asserted Gender equality and resisted the traditional women's gender role. Mini Skirts and Unisex costumes were symbolic costumes reflecting the changes. 5) 1980s: The self confidence of women's gender role affected the androgynous look and body-conscious look in modern fashion. 6) $1990s{\sim}2000s$: Now, the dichotomy of gender role is not no longer effective way to understand the social changes and fashion trend rather than personal characteristics and lifestyle trends.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제52권4호
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• pp.347-354
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• 2014

'Heongbu and Nolbu 1' is a series of the on-line game 'Tales Runner.' It is based on a traditional Korean fairy tale. However, the game characters in Heongbu and Nolbu 1 wear casual clothes even though the game is set in the Joseon Dynasty. Therefore, this paper presents proposed game characters clothes based on traditional Korean costumes from the Joseon Dynasty. This work should help inspire gamers and game designers with the beauty of Korean traditional costumes and familiarize them with an aspect of Korean people's identity. A literature review of online games and game characters was carried out, and game characters' clothes were analyzed. The design motifs of historical relics of the Joseon era were evaluated. Three styles, one traditional and two "fusion" styles integrating traditional and modern elements were proposed for each of the 4 characters: Chowon, Ruff, Bada and Abell. The chulrik and jurip were used as design motifs for Chowon. A traditional chulrik, short chulriks and pants are suggested. Second, the dongari and jeonrip were used as design motifs for Ruff. A traditional dongdari, sapok pants, deck pants and a vest are suggested. Third, the jeogori and chima were used as design motifs for Bada. A traditional female hanbok, arm warmers, short-sleeved jeogori and dress are suggested. Fourth, the dang-ui and daeran-chima were used as design motifs for Abell. A traditional dang-ui and daeran-chima, blouse, skirt, jumper and tight Bermuda shorts are suggested. The length, shape and color were converted into new styles, but some traditional elements such as the git and goreum were retained.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권5호
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• pp.481-494
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• 2003

The Gamrotenghwa of the Choson Dynasty is a unique genre of buddhist painting in that the destiny of the dead souls and the guidance to nirvana are expressed in reality. More than 50 of the Gamrotenghwa are known to be present, and the lower part of the paintings includes a wide assortment of folk customary scenes reflecting the social life style of the time when the painting was drawn, such as difficulties in life. public life, punishment and war. Changes in the costume of the people shown on the customary scenes of the Gamrotenghwa according to the time based changes in painting style were investigated in this study. The results are summarized in three points. First, the costumes of bureaucrats showed a tendency of preservation without any major changes in the painting. On the other hand, costumes of public and entertainer in the scenes were very close to those worn by the people at that time. The realistic description of public life in the painting may establish the value of the Gamrotenghwa as the historical documents. Second, the costume of the people in the painting showed a dual structure as the social positions; bureaucrats wore various official hats, large coats and belts to expose their social prestige. while the general public wore simple and convenient clothing which is divided into shirt and pants. The dual structure of the costume in the painting is in well accordance with that of the later period of Choson dynasty, suggesting that the customary scenes in the painting represent the social life style of the period. Finally, the customary scenes in the Gamrotenghwa are very variegated. which shows a variety of beauty of wearing even though they look coarse in a sense. The diversity of wearing beauty in the picture may contribute to the recreation of the beauty of shape in the new design of Hanbok.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.56-68
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• 2016

Popular culture has symbolic meaning and has been constructed through different mass media. Newspapers played a significant role in 1950s and 1960s public culture. In particular, editorial cartoons in newspapers expressed social aspects of the age implicitly through satire and criticism. This study examines delivered culture by reflecting the past social aspects and inquiring on clothing featured in the editorial cartoon "Gobau". As for a research method, literature research was conducted on clothing of the age with a review of "Gobau". As for a research range, examination was done based on the complete works of Gobau composed of 5 volumes published as a first edition by Hankookmunhwasa on November, 1973. Early "Gobau" cartoons from 1951-1963 were published in 5 volumes; therefore, research was conducted for the era from 1950s to the early 1960s. Clothing expressed in "Gobau" were reviewed, classified into formative characteristics and internal meaning. Internal meaning was examined by dividing into the expression of social aspects and criticism of society. The research findings are as follows. First, clothing in "Gobau" reflected characteristic in direct manner. There was a coexistence of Hanbok and western-styled, clear distinction between men's trousers and women's skirt. Besides, various kinds of women's western-styled dress appeared in the 1960s. Second, they showed the dress culture that reflected past social aspects. Many aspects were included to reconstruct old and worn clothes due to scarce resources after the Korean War, and cherishing clothes, buying fabric directly to making clothes, making clothes from dressmaking shop, and restrictions on imported goods and luxury items. Third, the study also examined the social norms for fashion. It contained negative perspectives on women wearing pants, short skirts, and new hair styles (like perms) from western culture as well as lipstick.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.68-91
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to create modern patterns based on considering the types and design elements of Joseon hwapo patterns containing Korean identity, and to develop costume designs by applying design elements of traditional Korean dress, Hanbok. These designs combine traditional costumes with modern sensibility using the attribute listing method, and present them using a 3D virtual clothing program. Through this, it is meaningful as it organizes data on Joseon hwapo patterns, which were rarely dealt with in the traditional Korean costume research, and it is also of research value as it is a work that utilizes Joseon hwapo patterns as a new source of fashion design development. As a research method, literature research was conducted based on the documents, 'Nabeshima-sarasa hidensho', 'Nabeshima-sarasa mihoncho', and 'Zoho kafu benran', which are related to Joseon hwapo remaining in Japan. Based on the literature research, research was performed by creating pattern design and costume design using the attribute listing method, and 3D virtual clothing. Traditional Korean costumes used in design development in this study were saekdong-jeogori, dolddi-jeogori, magoja, hongjangsam, durumagi, jungdan, gollyongpo, jeogui, breast band, mujigi-chima, chima, and baji. Further, accessories used in each costume, such as pyeseul, daedae, hapi, and jeonhaeng-utchima, and features of configurations, such as yongbo, chest ribbons, band hem, gusset, collar and dongjung, heorimalgi, neckline, and sapok line, were used for design development.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• 복식
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• 제35권
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• pp.91-109
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• 1997

This study was conducted to find a more rational way of inheriting and developing tra-ditional Korean HanBok children wear by means of looking at the color and shapes of traditional Korean HanBok and also to find a way to apply this to today's children HanBok wear. The process taken was first to study re-lated literature and its theories and to research museums to find what few traditional HanBok there are and then to compare these findings with new books and personal pieces kept by individuals. We also compared with HanBok children wear now sold at markets. The results of these findings show the fol-lowing conclusions and recommendations: We have found that modern children HanBok utilized the same yellow blouse and red skirt combination as before. These nearly in all cases represented the colors for girls. To most koreans these combination colors are a representation of traditional children wear nat-urally accepted by most koreans without any resistance. Also a definite relation with tra-ditional and modern children wear in the sense of color and shape wear hard to substantiate but we could find harmony between the two. In other words a mixture of modern shapes and traditional colors could be found or vice versa. This is an important factor to be con-sidered when trying to inherit traditional hanBok cuture. Modern times has seen great change in lifestyle feelings and social environ-ment,. In order to create harmony between tra-dition and present day customs a certain mix-ture is required. Therefore we need to maximize traditional flavor and design with present day design emotions. Another issue is that right now children hanBok is only being utilized on a restricted scale. It is a shame that in today's children HanBok that added to the skirt pants and overall wear that the head wear purse and other accessories are not being used. There-fore the HanBok culture especially for the correct succession of children hanBok must refrain from such restricted use of accessories and work to advertise the widespread use of proper Hanbok wear thereby upholding the rightful use of HanBok. As I have mentioned in my other studies it is ones momory of early HanBok wear which greatly affects a grown-up so we should wear hanBok in the right way from an early age and become accustome to its shapes and colors thereby become friendly with traditional HanBok wear. This I believe will lead to overcoming prejudice and disapproval of hanBok and to a more affirm-ative view towards our cultural heritage, Looking from a design point of view inter-national design of a nation's traditional wear can only come from a correct understanding of ones traditions this then becoming a foun-dation for creative design. Seen from these aspects a re-cretion through the meaningful activities of studying traditional shapes and colors of hanBok is the beat way to forming a true HanBok tradition.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.399-406
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• 2023

본 연구의 배경은 한류의 확산으로 주목되는 공연 콘텐츠 개발에 있어서 전통 소재가 중요하게 부각되고 있으며 창작과정에서 스토리텔링을 적용하는 것이 필요하다는 것이다. 이에 따라 판소리 발레극 '도깨바! 도깨바!'의 공연창작 과정에 스토리텔링을 도입함으로써 나타나는 차별화된 무대의상 디자인을 살펴보는 것이 연구의 목적이다. 안무가, 작가, 의상 디자이너가 작품 기획부터 작품 내용 창작까지 스토리텔링 과정에 공동으로 참여하였으며, 그 결과로 한국적 도깨비는 초월적인 힘을 가진 신적 존재이면서 동시에 인간이나 사물의 모습으로도 나타나는 일상적이고 친근한 존재로 정의되었다. 그리고 공동으로 창작한 시나리오에 따라서 디자인 된 무대 의상은 기존의 공연에서 뿔이나 장식으로 표현하던 '귀면와'나 '오니'를 연상시킬 수 있는 도깨비의 모습을 지양하고, 퓨전한복과 다양한 조형적인 장신구, 색채 대비를 통한 모던 창작 의상, 질감에 의한 간접적인 사물에 빙의한 도깨비 캐릭터 표현, 일상복 착장 등으로 인간화 된 도깨비를 표현함으로써 차별화하였다. 따라서 본 연구의 의의는 도깨비를 주제로 한 새로운 공연 콘텐츠 제작에 기여하고 무대의상 디자인의 다양한 방향성을 제안하는 것이다.