• 복식
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• 제64권7호
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• pp.172-183
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• 2014

The term "new woman" (신여성 [Sinyeoseong], 新女性) refers to an idealized image of contemporary women during the so-called modern period in East Asia. In Korea, these "modern girls" were also referred to as modan (毛斷), or "cut-hair", reflecting changes in appearances that rejected the traditional value system in favor of "the new" in everyday life. Although it was used to refer to the perceived educated leaders of this new period, it also had the negative connotation of referring to frivolous women only interested in the latest fashion. The popular discourse on this "new woman" was constantly changing during this early modern period in East Asia, ranging from male-driven women's movements to women-driven liberal and socialist movements. The discourse often included ideals of what constituted female impeccability in women's domestic roles and enlightened views on housekeeping, yet in most cases the "new woman" was also expected to be a good wife and mother as well as a successful career woman. The concept of the "new woman" was also accompanied by an upheaval in women's social roles and their physical boundaries, and resulted in women repositioning themselves in the new society. The new look was a way of constructing their bodies to fit their new roles, and this again was rapidly reproduced in visual media. Newspapers, magazines, and plays had gained immense popularity by this time and provided visual material for the age with covers, advertisements, and illustrations. This research will explore the fashion of the "new woman" through archival resources, specifically magazines published in the 1920s and 1930s. It will investigate how women's appearances and the images they pursued reflected the ideal image of the "new woman." Fashion information providers, trendsetters, and levels of popular acceptance will also be examined in the context of the early stage of the fashion industry in East Asia, including production and distribution. Additionally, as the idea of the "new woman" was a worldwide phenomenon throughout the 19th and early 20th century, the effect of Japanese colonialism on the structure of Korean culture and its role as a cultural mediator will also be considered in how the ideal image of beauty was sought, and whether this was a western, colonial, or national preference.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.115-126
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• 2009

This study is about the iconological analysis on woman and clothes of Richard Avedon's and Cindy Sherman's constructed photographies which have questioned about life and existence of woman and present new visions about woman in comtemporary society and culture. The woman in R. Avedon's disguises herself with clothes, while the woman in C. Sherman's changes herself depending on the circumstances. R. Avedon reveals the inside of woman and ego with his gaze. The woman in his photography is reborn as another-self and communicates with the viewer through her eyes. C. Sherman has cast doubts with a woman's point of view in the way of making herself as an object in her works. C. Sherman has presented a new way of thinking about woman's body and ego. The viewer gives feminity and identity to the woman in C. Sherman's photography who has kept asking a question about woman-herself. The identity of woman in the photography has been changed depending on what she is wearing, what she is doing and where she is. Like this, the clothes which she puts on becomes another-self and also expresses life and dignity of the woman.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.20-33
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to inquire into social and cultural background of modernization and the new woman's life centered around a new woman and a dancer, Choi Seung-hee and its style. The study was carried out centered around analysis of content through photos of 179 pieces and a documentary DVD. We analyzed collected photo data and came to know various bobbed hair style, clear makeup style and Art-Deco fashion. Accordingly, Choi Seung-hee has external appearance as a new woman and we came to know she is a representative woman in Korea. Because she crossed over into North Korea, the study has not been actively carried out but if we consider Choi Seung-hee's influence over the dance world, her women's leader and fashion roles at that age, it is considered that the study on Choi Seung-hee's external style has a significant meaning.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.35-47
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• 2004

Hair style is an expression of beauty for individuals and at the same time a clear social representation. It may be regarded as a means of knowing social recognition about social values and groups of the moment. The hair style clearly discriminated so-called the new woman, emerged during Chosun's modernization, and the old woman. Thus the purpose of this study is to examine changes in social recognition about the behavioral style of the new woman by relating them with women' s movements and with changes in female education policies. Results of the study can be described as follows. First, the new women in the 1920s were evaluated positive as those who were leading struggles against Japan and enlightenment campaigns. But between the 1920s and the 1930s, those women were thought to be negative in that they were appearance-oriented, extravagant and sticking themselves to reality. Second, how a variety of social figures recognized short-hair was determined here through reviewing the mass media of the 1920s. At that time, some men were positive about short-hair like feminists while others denied the convenience of the hair style in life and were negative about the new women's individualism and pursuance of luxurious appearance. Third, there were both positive and negative social recognitions about short-hair in the 1930s. which were supported by the mass media of that time.

• 한국응용약물학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국응용약물학회 2001년도 추계학술대회 및 정기총회
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• pp.89-89
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• 2001

Paclitaxel is currently administered i.v. as a slow infusion of a solution of the drug in an ethanol: cremophor EL: saline admixture. However, poor solubilization and toxicity are associated with this drug therapy. We have tried to develop a new surfactant for paclitaxel to improve efficacy and reduce toxicity of solubilizer. We performed the hemolysis test for chemicals which passed the paclitaxel-stabilizing test and 5 chemicals showing relatively low hemolytic effects were tested for a single dosing toxicity test. And then aceporol 330, which showed the most favorable result, was introduced to the repeated dosing toxicity tests in mouse and beagle dog. According to data based on body weight, mortality, dissection, homological test and biochemical test, Aceporol 330 exhibited much more reduced toxicity than cremophor EL.

• 영미문화
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.55-79
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• 2017

Ella Hepworth Dixon's The Story of a Modern Woman is a pioneering female writer?s important work which was not deeply studied yet very influential in new women literature and its cultural global impact. Although women had been often praised for their beauties specially by romantic poets but their self-realization and innate values were not widely recognized until new women writers advocated their desires and active roles in the society at the end of the $19^{th}$ century. The new women writers including Ella Dixon gained popularity with their professional skills as the journalists or the contributors to the journals which were suddenly popular and actively circulated among Victorian women. From the 1880s to 1920s, in contrast with the traditional images of wives as ?the angel in the house?, these women new women writers broke the yoke of subjugated womanhood and instead tried to freely express their independent spirits and demanded their roles in the society. Although they were criticized sometimes as "the daughter of a new guise" "a lady of restless sex" or "the wild women," new girls? perky images in new women fiction brought into the new cultural phenomenon which led to the ?flapper? girl in the 1920s. Ella Dixon?s protagonist Mary Erle, strikingly similar to author herself, was a representative new woman who displayed a wide range of new cultural perspectives from a feminist?s viewpoint, but her untimely desire in the capitalized society was not fully accomplished, just promising the potentiality of the female solidarity which might be achieved later by her feminist posterity.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.543-553
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• 2014

This study analyzes the visual image and the symbolic image of the 'New Woman' main female characters' costumes in three films: , , and , set in the Korean Empire Period and filmed in the last 10 years. The findings are as follows. First, on the visual image by formative characteristics, Gibson girl style was reflected in Western costume design. Korean costume design is based on a traditional style (or modified in some parts). Second, the three films have the same historical background on the visual image by the fidelity of historical research; however, the fidelity of historical research differs and varies with the personality of characters or situations in the films. Third, all three films share the symbolic image by characteristics of characters and 'New Woman' aspect with the same historical background and 'New Woman' female character in common; however, the personality and 'New Woman' aspect of the characters were somewhat different. There was also a distinct difference in the symbolic image of Western and Korean costumes. Western and Korean costumes signify externality versus internality and denial versus the affirmation of national identity in ; dailiness versus ceremonialness and dynamics versus statics in ; and independence versus conformity and variability versus continuity in .

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.733-745
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• 2009

The contra-sexual phenomenon that is recently focused is one of the new factors, which is focused when explaining the life style of progressive woman's image and it is creating cultural category. Moreover, the contra sexual people that are rising as new consuming subjects are not simple primary consumers but their shopping culture and cultural tastes are giving effects to many people. Because of the tendency, marketer of consuming industry are making efforts to predict the changes of contra-sexual people's shopping habits and tastes. Therefore, it is necessary to grasp contra-sexual phenomenon and research the fashion design aiming at that in order to predict woman's fashion image in the future. Therefore, the study considered concept and characteristic of contra-sexual phenomenon and surveyed its example in the popular culture. And, the study analyzed the formative characteristic of contra-sexual fashion shown in the public cultures such as drama and movie. On the basis of the result, design was suggested by reflecting contra-sexual fashion characteristic under the concept of 'Urban Splendor'. From the results above, it was possible to grasp the concept and characteristic of contra-sexual phenomenon, which appeared as a trend and understand new woman's image and the fashion that has changed because of it. It is considered that the establishment of the foundation of contra-sexual phenomenon, which plays as an important variable in woman's fashion, fashion accessory, cosmetic and advertisement field but it is hard to clarify, by analyzing the work aiming at contra-sexual phenomenon will be helpful for predicting the change of woman's fashion in the future.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권3호
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• pp.379-390
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• 2009

This Study is a research on symbolic meaning and artist's will of Vivienne Westwood's works which provide a new vision on woman's body and clothes. For the literary research, this study investigates theories of human's body which are phenomenal body of Merleau-Ponty's, the relations between power and body of M. Foucault's, cultural and social body of E. Goffman's and habitus of p, Bourdieu's. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood's collections are classified into each item which exaggerating and distorting woman's body such as Mini-Crini, corset, bustle cushion, bum-pad, farthingale and tailoring suits. Also she puts man's clothes item such as codpiece into woman's body. Through all of these design, she wants to reinterpret the woman's body and self-identity. Vivienne Westwood dose not leave the past just as a historic trace but recreates with her way of creation. Westwood has presented the satire which leads the parody of past in her unique ways of thinking and interpretation which mix the ideology of the past and the presents. Those make her look back the history and culture and express her esteem for self-identity of woman. Vivienne Westwood's works express woman's power and freedom in modem society.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.407-426
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• 1996

The study, "a semiotic analysis on 1930′s costume", is based on semiotic theory which analyze the meaning of signs. In the novels, "흙" and "삼대", character′s costume were used as a visual language that implies massages of character′s status, class, and the view of value. Analyzing the meaning of clothing signs, clothing could deliver the people′s informations to others and could be first things when people accept new value. The object of the studies are the novels, Hulk(흙) and Samdae(삼대) which are written by lee, Kwang-Soo and Yeom, Sang-Seob. In the novels, the social structure is classed as modern and traditional after we accept the western cultures and institutions. The traditional clothing, Han Bok, were dressed by the conservative woman. However, we could find the modernized woman dress with the western dress and the modified traditional style. According to the result of the research, we could find that clothing could be a sign which indicates value and also clothing is one of the first thing to change when people acquired new value.