• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.112-119
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• 2013

This study focuses on an innate 'spiritual' quality of arts including building art, or a meaning of the religious philosophy of 'creativity-art'. In particular, this focuses, among two aspects in roots of modernism, especially on the irrational facet veiled by the name of 'a new' religious faith, rather than the rational such as the function. In fact, although modern Avant-gardes' religious philosophical faiths called by different names respectively have generally considered as one of the sources for their designs, nevertheless it had veiled because of the religious 'orthodoxy power' at that time. Arguably, as known well, the creativity of art is intimate relation with a religious ideas. Thus, for this purpose, this study treats this theme in central these three issues; Orientalism, Universalism, and Froebelianism which are intimate in the realm of religious philosophy. Ultimately, through a research on the universal religious philosophy in all three objects as keeping a quality not of pantheism but of 'Panentheism' emphasizing the individual's 'divine' artistic volition, this study deepens the understanding on the Creativity-art as the main characteristic of modernity. Namely, it is very important to draw a distinction between pantheism and Panentheism; because, through the pantheism, it is difficult to comprehend a stream and a characteristic of the twentieth new religious thoughts including those of modern avant-garde artists, as well as their existential free-will as a whole.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.87-98
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is ultimately subjected to the Orientalism, even though this deals with some positive effects in the realm of art and architecture as the scope of study, because through which the relationship between two different cultures will be discussed. That is to say, this research focused not only on how the presentation of 'avant-garde' visual art, which is explained as formal 'purity' and 'abstraction' as the characteristics of modern arts, could be made in the transition to the 20th's World, but also on what is the role and meaning of Eastern thoughts, which is popular in that time, for the new philosophical background of the artistic revolution. As a result, this study found that a lot of 'avant-garde' architects such as F. L. Wright, M. Mahony in Prairie School and L. Sullivan, D. Burnham, J. Root in Chicago School, and Lauweriks, H. P. Berlage who introduced Wright's works into the Europe, had possessed the 'Universal Philosophy' including Unitarianism, Transcendentalism, Deism, and Theosophy which are all influenced by Oriental religions and thoughts through historic western philosophers, although it is generally well-known that W. Kandinsky and P. Mondrian were belong to that. Furthermore, they gave attention to the Oriental religions and thoughts in that time, eventually made a historical progressive process of unification of thoughts between East and West. In a word, the new universalism was the philosophical background that made the artist's idea and presentation on 'from Being into Becoming'.

• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.176-190
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• 2007

As the globalization has increasingly brought in the disintrgration of boundary between cultures, the hybrid of styles, or fusion styles in various cultural spheres have been introduced as important theme. With this new trend, the traditional culture of Asia appeared as the source of inspiration for the West, and as the source of enhanced pride and asset for ethnic groups which have been considered "the Other" by the West. 1990's witnessed a drastically increased interest in Orientalism and Ethnic trends in most social aspects, especially in culture and art. They have been the main theme in fashion, providing the source of inspiration with elements such as the unique color schemes, composition methods and geometrical simplicity. The creative application of traditional culture into modern design as well as fashion can make a significant contribution and be a solid foundation for the development of national culture in general, since images containing cultural authenticity are the visual representation of the nation and they can be important tools for the globalization of design. This study aims to find out the formative characteristics of Korean traditional embroidery and the ways they are applied in modern fashion by world-renowned Korean fashion designers. The purpose of this study is to make a fundamental source for further study by the same author on creative design development utilizing the result. The study methods are literature study combined with research of genuine articles from museums and personal ownership as well as photos from magazines and internet. The significance of this study lies in enhancing the appreciation of Korean traditional culture and expanding the possibility of its globalization by modern application.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.947-959
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• 2009

This study aims to analyze contemporary women's sense of fashion aesthetic by looking into the design and trend of T-panties, which have now carved out a new niche in the world's 21st century female underwear markets. By this, I'd like to reassure readers of the importance of T-panties, which has only been recently recognized, and more generally suggests the future direction of prominent T-panty design development. First, western urban chic, Japanese minimalism and domestic modern feminine images all have common modern urban sense and simple designs. However, each image is not a simple image in itself. For example, in the case of western style they often seek to convey a sophisticated and stylish street sense, while Koreans add a more cute, lovely, and feminine touch. Second, western restrained eroticism, Japanese fetishism and domestic mono-bosom images all have a common interest in sex. They is something, however, which they all express this differently. In Japan, they prefer a stimulating image. In the West, however, this is restrained by controlling and limiting overt sexual elements, while in Korea, we seek to capture a more simple sensual beauty. Third, western couture luxury, Japanese orientalism and Korean utopia narcissism have classy images in common including splendid materials and decorations with embroidery. They all differ depending on their nationality. This study is baseds on the documents study. This study is baseds on the documents study.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.789-808
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• 2010

The orientalism in fashion is believed to develop from the eclectic notion of oriental and occidental fashion. By studying on Gabrielle Chanel's clothing that is usually used by neutral colors and on Yohji Yamamoto's clothing that characterizes clothes in neutral colors, the purpose of this study is to seek ways for remaking Korean traditional clothing into a new modern one to gain a world reputation in terms of clothes. Therefore the study is for exploring the characteristics on the factors of fashion design such as color, line and textile materials with works of Gabrielle Chanel, a famous designer in Western world who has made a black color a popular one for people and works of Yohji Yamamoto, an well-known fashion designer of the East using neutral colors. This study analyzed, from the 2004 S/S to the 2006 F/W, the collection of works published in style.com through the works of Gabrielle Chanel, Yohji Yamamoto, and through the analysis of the visual target. A total of 527 images are used in this paper. Elements of fashion design analysis are lines, colors, and materials. The study reached the conclusion as follows after analyzing the characteristics on clothing with neutral colors of Gabrielle Chanel and Yohji Yamamoto. In case of aesthetic characteristics on the design of Gabrielle Channel, it has expression of feminist, sensual, modern and luxury. It is considered that Gabrielle Channel has a luxury image using a neutral color. Also using simple sleeveless in black and tweed structure, the garments have mixed with neutral colors. Fashion design characteristics on the design of Yohji Yamamoto classified into sensual, modern, ascetic expression. Therefore the design has a simple expression of using a black color. Yohji Yamamoto is a designer who pursues unstructured design by using various neutral colors such as black, gray and white based on the oriental sentiment.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제25권
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• pp.291-312
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• 2011

The academic world in Korea demands internationally competitive researches at the moment. However, there is a lack of understanding on research trends of Western countries. This research aims to understand how discussions on early modern Japanese plays are developed in Western countries such as America. Also, it aims to consider and compare the present situation of researches on early modern Japanese plays in Western countries, Japan and Korea. In Western countries, modern Japanese plays such as Kabuki and Joruri is accepted and enjoyed as universal plays of the world. It is not only because there is a background of enjoying plays such as Shakespeare's but also researches and translations are accumulated continuously from the early 20th century. In the early 20th century, the main theme of researches was about Kabuki actors in Ukiyoe which was collected because of an interest in orientalism. After 1930s, Japanese arts and handcrafts were sent to art museums in America in order to promote Japanese culture. Also, many Japanese books were donated to university libraries in order to form institutes of Japanology. The war was started when the foundation of Japanology was about to be laid. Students who were interested in Japan were mobilized to the war as agents to understand Japan. After the war, those students started to do researches on Japan on a full scale. There were researchers such as Donald Keen who did researches on Kabuki and Joruri. In western countries, there are researches on patterns of behavior and thoughts of Japanese people, comparison with Shakespeare's plays, dramaturgie, theatricalism as well as censorship of Kabuki during the war and mobilization of Kabuki to the war. It is necessary to understand where my researches are positioned in those research trends. It is also necessary to break away from overlapped and repeated researches of the same point of view and find out new research paradigms.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.224-232
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• 2012

Although evolution of construction materials brought about development of modern architecture, they caused destruction of the environment and pollution. This problem is not a new one in terms of ecological esthetics and materials of sustainable architecture in light of the Eastern view of nature and this idea became a background of this study. The basic concept is to try to find out their characteristics from a perspective of ecological esthetics in relation to traditional building materials that nature, architecture, and humans coexist and live with each other to balance. Based on ecological esthetics and precedent studies on materials of traditional architecture, we investigated connections, expressive methods and characteristics in traditional residential construction space. This attempt has meanings in that it can propose a new framework of forming various viewpoints and spatial perceptions in relation to esthetics and traditional construction materials. The current study examined the characteristics by dividing them into tangible and intangible elements based on expressive features of elements of nature. The characteristics found by this process are not simply notion of physical materials, but plays a key role aesthetically and ecologically. Nature and materials take circulation of the law of nature, regulate energy, increase efficiency and play a major role in an economic way. Nature in itself becomes natural alternative energy, and plays its role in an invisible fashion. It examined how expressive characteristics of construction materials are reflected through analyzing residential space and Korean traditional garden having relationships with Eastern viewpoint of nature in relation to Korean traditional construction materials from a perspective of ecological esthetics. Findings of the above study indicate that expressive characteristics of Korean traditional construction materials from a perspective of ecological esthetics are that nature, space, humans coexist and live together and they will provide a clue to an alternative to solve ecological and environmental problems modern society will have in the future. Through this process, it provided a possibility that traditional space and materials can be succeeded in creative and new ways, and it found out the way for nature, space, and humans to coexist and a possibility of ecological esthetics. It addition, it will provide a key base as an alternative of sustainable design of the future.

• 복식
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• 제56권1호
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• pp.13-31
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• 2006

This study will explore Rococo chinoiserie not only as a prominent style of the decorative arts in general, but also as an important factor that influenced $18^{th}$ century fashions in dress. Two premises support the conclusion of this study. One is that the chinoiserie is truly a hybrid, a totally new style resulting from the mixture of various traditional elements from the East and the West, with little regard for the authentic nature of the original styles. The other is that the geographical scope for defining the chinoiserie influence in the Rococo fashion can be expanded beyond its lexical meaning; the style eventually encompassed visual cues from various Eastern cultures including China, India and Turkey. Regardless of the specific origins, the oriental influences for Rococo fashion can be categorized into two types. The first type is a complete appropriation of structural elements of Eastern clothing, such as pagoda hats, pagoda sleeves, turbans decorated with plumes or fur-trimmed open robes and then combining them with Western dress. These exotic and fancy dress ensembles were worn as masquerades, theatrical costumes or portraits. One extraordinary example is the banyan, a man's dressing gown, which also had a place in everyday life, not just as special costume. Although the banyan became more tailored as time passed, the traditional shape of this Eastern garment was accepted unaltered in the beginning of the $18^{th}$ century. The second type of influence shows in the use of eastern textiles, especially silks, which were made into women's dress. It did not matter to the fashionable lady if her dress was made of the silk produced in China or a European copy of the Chinese original, as long as it satisfied her taste. It is difficult to detect the signs of exotic style from a glance in this type of chinoiserie dresses since it was more ambiguous and conservative adaptation of the oriental influence in Rococo dress styles than the first type. In this study, various oriental influences appearing in $18^{th}$ century Rococo fashions can be defined as part of the chinoiserie style based upon the suggested premises. No matter what the origin of these oriental fashions was, this hybrid of the East and West made one of great impacts on the most frivolous and splendid period of western fashion history.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제2호
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• pp.75-120
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• 2004

국내의 서양미술 관련 연구 장은 유럽과 미국 도시들과의 불가피한 거리 시간상의 차이로 인해 이미 '그곳'에서 '역사의 보편화 작업'이 종료된 사건들만을 재차 다룰 수밖에 없는 딜레마에 봉착해 있다. 이 같은 사실이 국내의 미술작용에 미치는 영향은 결코 단순하지 않다. 지극히 제한적으로만 원전의 생산과 그에 관련된 조건들에 접근이 허용됨으로써 연구가 피상적 수준에 머물 수밖에 없는 것이 그 한 예이다. 그럼에도 그 같은 피상적 연구들이 국내 미술 장의 어떤 정치, 권력적 문맥 안에서 상대적인 우위를 점함으로써 야기되어온 숱한 문제들이 또한 있다. 서양미술의 흐름과의 관계에서 그간 국내 미술이 보여주었던 과도한 연동성, 곧 '동화와 일치의 메커니즘'은 이 같은 원인이 초래한 결과다. 그럼에도, 국내의 서양미술사, 미술이론 영역의 연구들은 여전히 이 차이의 공간에 내재하는 컨텍스트를 간과함으로써, 결과적으로 서양미술의 '원전적' 정보를 매개하거나 확대 재생산하는 것에 지나지 않는 심각한 존재론적 한계를 노정해왔다. 또 국내의 서양미술사, 미술이론연구는 자신의 학문적 영역을 정당화하는 범주론과 영역주의 안에 거함으로써, 사이 공간에서 야기되는 복잡한 정치권력적 함의들을 독해해내는 데 어려움을 겪고 있다. 이와 같은 현실에서 우리는 서양미술사, 미술이론을 보다 반성적인 학문으로 이끌어야 하는데, 그러기 위해서는 학문으로서 결코 현실에 대해 어떠한 특권적 지위도 가지려해선 안 된다는 사실을 확인해야만 한다. 그러면서 지금 우리의 삶과 존재에 보다 예민하고 긴밀하게 관여하는 학문이기를 소망해야 할 것이다. 국내의 서양미술사, 미술이론연구 장이 다시 인력과 지원의 활발한 움직임들을 끌어들이고, 그들(그것들)과 함께 인간과 문명에 대한 공동성찰의 장으로 나서기 위해서는 객관성이라는 허구와 역사의 기계적이고 중립적인 독해로부터, 그리고 "토론장에서 마른 빵을 먹어치우는" 창백한 관습에서 사건들이 터지고 수습되는 뜨거운 현실로부터 새로이 출발할 수 있어야한다. 그리하여 충돌하는 두 개의 문화권역 사이에 끼어 분열을 경험하는 지식인 특유의 명석함으로 현실을 직시하고, 그 안에서 분별력 있는 선택과 판단에 필요한 조건들을 찾아내야 할 것이다. 예속과 자율의 변증법적인 관계 속에서 새로운 한국미술, 세계미술의 출범이 어떠해야 할 것인가를 끊임없이 제안하는 것, 그것이 서양미술사, 미술연구의 새로운 좌표가 되어야 할 것이다.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제37호
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• pp.249-293
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• 2018

뮤지컬은 유럽의 오페라로 대표되는 서구 음악극 전통에서 시작된 대중예술 장르로서 20세기 미국 브로드웨이를 중심으로 꽃을 피웠으며, 현재 전 세계적으로 공연예술 분야에서 대중의 큰 사랑을 받고 있는 상업예술 가운데 하나라 할 수 있다. 이 장르의 특성 상 드라마의 전개나 캐릭터의 표현 등은 말이나 몸짓이 아닌 음악을 주요 매개체로 사용하며, 그 음악의 스타일은 특정 계층이 아닌 대중의 기호에 민감하게 반응한다. 근대화는 곧 서양화이고 일본이 조선의 개화에 책임을 져야한다는 일제의 식민주의 음악교육은 조선 민중에게 일본 이데올로기 및 문화를 강제적으로 주입함으로써 일본에의 협력과 순종을 이끌어내기 위한 것이었다. 일제가 편찬한 "보통교육 창가집"을 교재로 한 식민주의 음악교육은 한민족의 음악적 정체성이 일본음악 및 서양음악으로 전환되는 계기가 되었다. 또한 해방 이후 냉전체재 하에서 미국의 대외정책에 따른 친미적 남한 정부 수립을 위한 자본주의 경제 메커니즘과 더불어 '미8군 쇼 무대'와 '영화'로 대표되는 미국 대중문화, 이 두 가지 요소들의 유입으로 인한 비가시적인 '문화제국주의'의 영향으로 우리의 전통음악은 '국악'이라는 단어에 갇혀 '과거의 음악'이라는 의미로 한정되어지게 되었다. 우리나라는 해방 이후 미국 대중문화의 유입으로 뮤지컬을 접하게 되었고, 우리 전통예술의 현대화를 통한 '건전한 문화'의 보급을 지향한 당시 박정희 정권의 문화정책 기조에 따라 '한국적 뮤지컬'을 지향하는 '예그린악단'이 창단되었다. 그러나 우리 민족예술을 기반으로 현대화 된 공연예술을 만들고자 했던 계획은 1966년 <살짜기옵서예>의 성공으로 가능성을 보였으나, 이후 정권 실세의 후원 중단 등의 이유로 더 이상 주체적으로 운영할 능력을 상실한 관변단체로 전락하는 운명에 처하면서 무산되고 만다. 일제의 식민주의 음악교육과 해방 이후 미국 대중문화의 유입이라는 문화제국주의 책략의 영향으로 말미암아 한국 뮤지컬의 태동기에 우리의 전통연희 양식이 서양 음악과의 교류, 확장을 통한 자주적인 민족예술로 자리매김하지 못한 1960년대의 상황을 초래하게 되었다. 이것이 21세기 현재 한국 뮤지컬 시장을 서구 라이센스 뮤지컬이 주도하게 된 배경이며, 아울러 서양음악을 기반으로 한 뮤지컬 창작 현실의 주요 원인으로 볼 수 있다.