• 복식
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• 제12권
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• pp.9-23
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• 1988

This study is on the costumes for Korean traditional play, Nong-ak(farm music), and intends to analyze their aesthetic features, laying emphasis on Pilbong Nong-ak, Im sil, Chollanam-do. About its origin there are many kinds of theories; for example, the theory of hoping stability, the theory of it being related with Buddhism, the theory of martial music, etc. Shamanic, Buddhist, and martical fators that support these theories are expressed through flags, bells, drums, Deograe (half-coats), Cheonrips (sang-mo, felf hats), go-kkals(peaked hats), colored lines called 'ga-sa', which are used in Nong-ak. The characteristic of the costumes used in Pilbong Nong-ak is that it keeps its conservativeness and the costumes of its members are various and splendid. For example, leader groups' black half coats, Changbu's and Hwa-dong's red and bule over coats are remarkable. Particpants wear gok-kal or cheonrip, trousers and half coats which are the basic costumes of Korean Hanbok, and wear blak half coats or blue vests and put blue, red, and yellow lines around them. The colors and knotting methods of those lines in this region are the same with those of chollawoo-do and Kyongi province, but different form those of Kongwon and Kyong-sang province using green, red, and yellow colors. This comparison of colors shows each region's preference of peculiar colors and those colors coincide with colors used in flags. The research on the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes through each region's clothes tells us that these can be linear clothes which have expressiveness as stage clothes used in Madangori, the play which is performed in the field, and modern spatial formativeness. Those characteristics are as follows; 1. The expressions of a rhythmical and daring round line by turning a long line of sang-mo. 2. Various rhythms according to the attaching methods. 3. The expressions of thick, simple, and daring color lines. 4. Natural beauty of materials. 5. The popular simplicity and non-technicality 6. The beauty of five-direction colors, Oriental ideal colors Consequently in this study our national consciousness of beauty are examined through clothes. It is suggested that the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes and ornaments should be effectively expressed, for this purpose. interests in participants' clothes should be increased in order to prevent the confusion of each region's features. Also it is necessary to improve color lines, their length, width, and knotting methods, and beautify instrument. Finally this study intends to bring the reappraisal about the art of Nong-ak clothes and its re-establishment in view of modern aesthetic consciousness.

• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.13-24
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• 1981

The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.71-83
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• 2006

This study is about how Art Nouveau and Art Deco clothing are represented in the costume design of film created after those periods and examines the recreation process of visual media. The costume design of The Wings of the Dove tried to reflect the mixture of fashion trends that could be seen during the times. Milly???s clothes seem to focus on recreating the special features of the 1900???s fashion trends more visually while Kate???s clothes are represented in a strong and simple way to emphasize her personality. The costumes in The Great Gatsby, tried to reinvent the 1920???s clothes in a romantic way. Daisy???s and Gatsby???s costumes were based on the aesthetics of the 1920???s clothing. but emphasized the symbolic nature of the characters to give a greater dramatic effect. By analyzing and comparing, it can be seen that, while costume design usually begin with painstaking research into the historical period in which the film is set it is often altered to highlight aspects of the story. such as the theme and the characters, in an effort to create a stronger dramatic effect. Costume design remains one of the most effective means for a director to visually express the personality and desires of a film???s characters. The ideal aim of costume design is to create something new but at the same time, remain true to the period by being grounded in accurate research.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제55권5호
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• pp.481-490
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• 2017

This study considered the performing arts culture with a focus on Palgwanhoe Ceremony and various stunt-songs and dance (Baekhee-Gamoo) from the Goryeo period as well as examined the characteristics of performing arts' costume for Baekhee-Gamoo shown in Palgwanhoe Ceremony. The Baekhee-Gamoo shown in the Palgwanhoe Ceremony included acrobatics, traditions from comic dramas, puppet shows, mask plays, and four musical troupe flowers of youth in the Silla Dynasty, who excelled in beauty, bravery and the military arts (Sasun-Akboo). These were performed on a wagon ship with dragon, phoenix, and elephant animal masks (Yong-Bong-Sang-Mageosun). The characteristics of performing arts' costume for each performing arts are as follows. First, the general costume of the time was used for performing arts' costume. There were no special costumes for performing arts and it was just transformed or added for the efficiency of acrobatics. Second, the reality was improved by focusing on the historical research on costume suitable for characters and background of events in the performing arts to clearly deliver the purpose of the ceremony and quickly arouse audience's curiosity towards the performing arts' costume for the tradition of comic dramas and puppet shos in the Palgwanhoe Ceremony. Third, magical powers and symbolism were expressed through masks and performing arts' costumes. Palgwanhoe Ceremony aimed for magical powers that could protect weak human beings from threats and repel everything unfair while also symbolically showing the deified being through the performing arts' costume.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.27-42
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• 2010

It was in the fifteenth century in Italy that men began to talk of a rebirth in the arts and literature. Today we consider the period to belong to the Renaissance. We noticed the splendour of costume and the important role it played, in the life of Italian society in that period. From elsewhere in Europe and also from the East, dyestuffs came to Italy overland or in shiploads. Red and blue, notably kermes and madder on the one hand, and indigo and woad on the other were fundamental textile dyes in Italy. Saffron was used for yellows, oak galls for blacks. Renaissance Italian costumes' main color symbolized various meaning. Red symbolized high rank, affection, lady, redemption and various cardinal virtueses. Yellow was evaded color which was symbolized the lower class, betrayal, and gold. Green symbolized penniless, youthfulness, hope and love. Blue symbolized humbleness, sincerity, knowledge and the Madonna. Purple symbolized nobility, vice and various meanings. Black symbolized death, grief, beauty and elegance. These color symbols in the Renaissance Italian costumes were very similar to that of modern color symbols.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권12호
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• pp.117-126
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• 2006

A movie's fashion style delivers the overall atmosphere of the scene including the characters's class, personality, spiritual world and inner thinking and even their conflicts in the story. The movie 'American Psycho' directed by Mary Harron and based on from Bret Easton Ellis's original novel ridicules the American yuppie culture of the 1980's through the behavior of the hero Patrick Bateman. The life style of the yuppie sees itself as the high-class embodiment of a particular culture, but the various subcultures such as Glam and Punk show that it is merely a two-faced culture suffering from hypocrisy and mammonism. An analysis of the costumes found in the movie indicated an exhibition of the 1980's Haute Couture fashion, which was mainly occupied by the mainstream social class and of the social phenomenon of post-modernism. The anti-fashion presented in the movie as the resistance culture formed by the subculture was in extreme contrast with the expression of self-actualization.

• 디지털콘텐츠학회 논문지
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• 제19권8호
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• pp.1453-1462
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• 2018

본 논문에서는 의상을 촬영하여 이미지 파일로 구성한 후 배경을 제외한 의상 영역만 추출한 후 대표 색상 값을 산출하고 이에 대응되는 보색을 기반으로 의상 코디네이션 서비스가 이루어지는 시스템을 구현하였다. 의상 영역을 추출할 때 발생하는 과다 세그먼테이션의 문제점을 해결하기 위하여 이방성 확산을 이용하여 이미지의 노이즈를 제거하고, 기울기를 평탄하게 구성하여 의상 영역만 세그먼테이션할 수 있도록 하였다. 사용자들의 다양한 욕구를 충족시키기 위하여 향후 보색 코디네이션 뿐 만 아니라 다양한 배색 기법을 추가할 계획이다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제35권
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• pp.186-219
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• 2002

It is fortunate to glance at the old fabric style through the fabrics found in the Buddhist statues. There fore these fabrics deserve more attention and significance among the various remains found in the Buddhist Statues and should be taken carc of as the cultural inheritance. Concepts in the traditional fabrics could be viewed in three different aspects, In the first, the five primary elemental conception(五方思想) deeply rooted as the part of life style in old time appeared in five dircctional colors of the costumes whicb in turn connected to the traditional thought of order and harmony with nature. The second is the formal aspect. As can be seen in the fabrics found in the Buddhist statue, religious symbol was shaped into spiritual representation. The third is the aspect of the textile motifs, where wealth and preference for son were symbolized and even a utopia they dreamed for was appeared in the motif. Considering these conceptual aspects, the traditional textiles could be understood in line with the other cultural activity and should be taken more attention since the idea embeddcd in the textiles or colthes reveal the essential thoughts in old time.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2004년도 International Conference & Exhibition
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• pp.59-61
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• 2004

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.78-83
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• 2005

The Purpose of this study is to introduce traditional Mongolian costume easily and shortly in various ways. The Mongolian costumes are very simple and convenient to wear because they are made in consideration of Mongolian culture in which people live with livestock and ride horses every day. Furthermore, they are associated with traditional national ceremonies. It is interesting the Mongolian costume is similar to Korean Hanbok. More studies of Korean costume and Mongolian costume will be significant for cultural and historical interchanges between two countries.