• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.33-46
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability of silk on extract of Artemisia princeps, The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method. comonent of fabric, kind of mordant. The experimental study was done by laundering fastness, abrasion(dry/wet) fastness, perspiration(acid/alkali) fastness, light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows; First, in the C. C. M test on mordanting methods, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference, color was most yellow-greenish, Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabrics, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It is considered that silk has -$NH_2$ , -COOH, -OH than more than cotton. Third, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed that color-change was 2~3 grade, the contamination on attached fabric was 4~5 grade. perspiration fastness(acid/alkali) showed 4~5 grade nearly and those of acid was higher than alkali. abrasion fastness(dry/wet) was 4~5 grade and in Fe(3~4 grade) was lower than the other mordants. Forth, in color difference analysis on mordants, Fe(50.0) showed the highest and the order of color difference was alum(16.0), Cu(7.2), Sn(3.5), Al(3.1), Cr(2.3), The Hue was turned into yellow-greenish in alum mordant treatment, the luminocity of color was most dark in Fe(-48.9) and Cu(-7.2), chroma was the highest in alum (15.7) method.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

Regarding experimental study on the dyeing properties of natural dye, I have dyed silk fabric with Styphnolobium japonicum, sappan wood, and indigo. The results of the experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, K/S and CIE Lab chromaticity co-ordinated. The results are as follows: In case of complex dyeing using Styphnolobium japonicum and sappan wood, dyeing with sappan wood, which is red related color, after dyeing with Styphnolobium japonicum, which is yellow related color, is more efficient. When dyeing was maden by complex of Styphnolobium japonicum and sappan wood, Dyeing method by the order of "Styphnolobium japonicum${\rightarrow}$sappan wood${\rightarrow}$mordanting" made the best result of complex dyeing. In case of complex dyeing using Styphnolobium japonicum and Indigo, dyeing with Styphnolobium japonicum after the indigo made the best result. When dyeing with indigo first, and then Styphnolobium japonicum, yellow color was not well dyed, and low level of saturation caused lusterless color. Ordering of Styphnolobium japonicum${\rightarrow}$sappan wood${\rightarrow}$indigo made the best result of complex dyeing in case of complex dying with Styphnolobium japonicum and indigo. Dyeing order, sappan wood first and then indigo last method shown 560~640 nm wavelength of maximum absorption which most color was blue related. In contrast, Indigo first and then sappan wood method shown 460~560nm wavelength of maximum absorption which color was red related. Complex dyeing with sappan wood and indigo was showing lusterless color. In case of dyeing with red and blue, dyeing with sappan wood and indigo was not appropriate.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.183-191
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• 2000

The dyeing of silk fabric with chinese scholar tree extract was investigated. The colorant was extracted with distilled water, and concentrated under reduced pressure, and, finally spray-dried. The optimum temperature and dyeing time for the dyeing of silk with the scholar tree extract was $60^\circ{C}$ and 60 minutes respectively. In mordant dyeing, pre-mordanting method was most effective for color yield, and 1~2 % of mordant concentration was acceptable. Fastness of the dyed silk fabric to laundering and rubbing was shown to be good, but fastness to light, dry cleaning, and perspiration were varied with used mordants.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.29-35
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• 1998

A natural colorant was extracted from Clove using methanol. The dyeabilities and fastness proesties of Clove extract on cotton fabrics were investigated. The results obtained were as follows : 1. The optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time were 6$0^{\circ}C$ and 60min., respectively. 2. Clove extract dyed brownish black on cotton fabrics by Fe post-mordanting method. In case of the other mordants, cotton fabrics were dyed yellow. 3. The dyed cottons had poor light-fastness but good wet-fastness.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.40-46
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to estimate natural dyeing properties of Korean traditional paper (Hanji). We dyed the Korean traditional paper with dyestuff which extracted from wood meal of Cotinus coggygria Scop (smoke tree) using hot-water, ethanol and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution. As mordants, 0.5% of $AlK(SO_4)_2$, $FeCl_2$, and $CuCH_3(COO)_2$ solution were used respectively. The color of dyed Hanji mainly depended on not the methods of extraction but the kinds of mordant. The dyed Hanji mordant with $AlK(SO_4)_2$ colored vivid yellow, $FeCl_2$ colored dark olive, and $CuCH_3(COO)_2$ colored brown and/or orange. The dyed Hanji with hot-water extractive had the highest K/S value and ethanol and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution extractives were followed. The K/S value of dyed Hanji mordant with $AlK(SO_4)_2$ was higher than that of $FeCl_2$ and $CuCH_3(COO)_2$. The dyeing effectiveness of after-mordanting method was superior to the others but sim-mordanting method was the worst.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.122-135
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• 2005

It has been reported that natural dyeing is impossible without pre-treatment with metal mordanting agents. However, pre-treatment with chitosan, which has high affinity to natural dyes, could result in an excellent dyeing with various natural dyes. In this study, three treatment methods were employed; 1) Using PET without any pre-treatment (Method 1) 2) Using PET with chitosan acid solution pre-treatment (Method 2) 3) Using PET with chitosan pre-treatment and subsequent crosslinking using citric acid (Method 3) Method 2 and 3 enhanced the Cochineal dyeability remarkably compared to Mehod 1. Washfastness was also enhanced, and moisture content, static property, abrasion resistance, and fabric hand changes were investigated.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.169-178
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop eco-printing method using natural dyes combined with chitosan treatment to impart various pattern effect on cotton fabric. It was examined whether tone-on-tone pattern effects could be produced by screen printing with chitosan paste and subsequently dip-dyed in natural dye bath. For polychromic colorants, fabrics were pre-mordanted and then screen printed with chitosan, while only chitosan printing treatment was applied for monochromic colorants. Color, dye uptake, washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of printed fabrics were measured in relation to the presence of chitosan printing. Pre-mordanting and chitosan printing treatment were applied to such polychromic colorants as madder, sappanwood, onion and cochineal. Also, printing pattern formation on fabrics was evaluated by differences in dye uptake and color. The results suggested that madder, onion and cochineal were effective on pattern formation. Regarding sappanwood, since dye uptake was increased only by pre-mordanting without chitosan printing treatment, there was little color difference and thus patterns were not clearly distinguished. Chitosan printing treatment tended to increase washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of dyed fabrics with polychromic colorants. Chitosan printing treatment was applied to monochromic colorants such as chlorophyll, gardenia and indigo and the effect of printing formation was examined according to the difference in dye uptake. Among monochromic dyes tried, chlorophyll was effective and chitosan printing improved washing and light fastnesses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.12 s.159
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• pp.1708-1713
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the efficacy of juglone, which shows hish affinity to wool, for hair dyeing as a natural dye. Before dyeing hair with juglone, virgin hair was bleached by a conventional method using hair shops in the city. In order to study the dyeing properties of juglone on hair, the effects of dyeing conditions on dye uptake, color, tensile strength, and morphology were investigated. And the effect of Fe-mordanting on color change was also investigated. Dye uptake changed marginally as dye concentration increased in the range of 0.02-0.04g. Dye uptake increased progressively is dyeing time increased in the range of 10-20 min. Juglone produced YR colors on hair and the color of dyed hair got duller as juglone concentration increased. The hair was little damaged by bleaching, but cuticles were melted and stripped away by dyeing for longer time. Tensile strength retention decreased up to 65% at 20 min dyeing. Simultaneous mordanting with Fe did not improved dye uptake, but led to darker brown color compared with unmordanted hair.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.79-86
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• 2006

This study purposes to find the best one for dyeing with artemisia in order to develop a more efficient method of dyeing with artemisia and investigates the antibiotic activities of artemisia. After dyeing cotton, rayon, silk, wool and nylon fabrics with dyebath extracted from artemisia, observation on dyeability by temperature, concentration and time has been carried out. And I took an observation on color change, color fastness to washing and color fastness to light after mordanting treatment. Also observation on the antibiotic properties of non-dyed fabrics, artemisia-dyed fabrics and artemisia-dyed fabrics with post-mordant has been performed to investigate the antibiotic activities of artemisia. And the following results have been obtained. 1. The dyeability of artemisia was better for protein fabrics such as silk or woo and amide-based synthetic fabrics like nylon than for cellulose fabrics such as cotton and rayon. 2. For all tested fabrics, the dyeability was increased as the concentration of artemisia dyebath, dyeing time and dyeing temperature was increased. Especially the dye ability for protein fabrics was most affected by the temperature, and high dyeability was obtained at high temperatures. 3. For the color fastness of artemisia-dyed fabrics with mordanting treatment, the color fastness to washing was good with grade of 4-5 while the color fastness to light ranged from grade 2 to grade 3, which requires improvement for practical use. 4. The artemisia-dyed fabrics were shown to have much higher antibiosis than the non-dyed fabrics, and the artemisia-dyed fabrics with mortanting treatment showed the following result; Cu 99.9%, Al 64% and bittern 64.7%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.391-400
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to investigate the efficacy of safflower yellow colorant as a natural dye for hair coloring. The dyeing properties of safflower yellow colorant on hair were explored to obtain optimum conditions. Also, the effect of mordant was studied in terms of dye uptake, colorfastness, and hair damage to better understand the characteristics of the colorant. Tensile strength measurement and SEM analysis were carried out for investigating hair damage to light exposure and washing. On the basis of obtained results considering possible hair damage, optimum dyeing conditions were set 100%(o.w.h.) colorant concentration, pH 5, $40^{\circ}C$, and 20min. Dye uptake was improved more effectively by repeated dyeing rather than by increasing concentration. Pre-mordanting method improved dye uptake slightly, irrespective of mordant type. The safflower yellow colorant produced Y colors on hair. Cu and Fe mordants improved washing and light fastness slightly. Better strength retention was obtained with the mordanted-dyed hair than the unmordanted-dyed hair after light irradiation for 40 hours and 10 repeated washing. The hair was more damaged by light exposure than by washing. It was concluded that the safflower yellow colorant can be used as a natural semi-permanent hair dye producing Y color without mordanting.