• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.109-119
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Caseaslpinia Sappan, L. and Brazilin were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye up-take adn color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. solution was 445nm, Brazilin was 448nm. The color of bazilin solution was affected by pH 7~9. The optimum temperature to extract Caesalpinia Sappan, L. was 10$0^{\circ}C$ adn dyeing solution for 1 hour. In case mordants concentration, the most absorbance was 0.3%. In case mordanting test, the best and proper temperature to quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was 8$0^{\circ}C$ and the most quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was mordant treatment by Cu. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 8$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treat-ment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. After soaping treatment K/S value of pre- and post-mordanting silk was decreased and 0.1%(W/V) quantity of mordant was sufficient for treatment. In the case of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. fastness was increased by mordanting treatment. Mordants and mordanting treatment method affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed silk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.971-977
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of nautral dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rhusjara ica was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Rhusjara ica were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Rhusjara ica solution was 299 nm. The color of Rhusjara ica solution was affected by pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Rhusjara ica was 6$0^{\circ}C$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 80~10$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30 min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treatment, specially Fe, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. In the case of Rhusjara ica fastness was increased by mordanting treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.7
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• pp.63-72
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• 2004

This study discussed the dyeing of wool and cotton fabrics with Betel Palm Tree White woolen fabrics and cotton fabrics purchased from HATH (Korea Apparel Testing ＆ Research Institute) were used as experimental fabrics. Using dyeing powder extracted from dyeing material, various temperatures, dyeing times, and pH were used in the dyeing process. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu, and Sn were used as mordant and the absorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The optimum condition for pre-mordanting dyeing was dye concentration of 25% (o.w.f) and mordant concentration of 0.5$^{\circ}$∼1%. Woolen fabric showed an increase of absorption and the maximum absorption was achieved at weak acidity. According to the mordanting methods, woolen fabrics and cotton fabrics were treated with various mordanting agents, a mordant rate of 1:100, at 60$^{\circ}C$, for 30 minutes and dyed with a dyeing material concentration of 25% (o.w.f), at a rate of 1:100, at 60$^{\circ}C$ for 60 minutes. The best dyeing effect w3s achieved at the temperature of 60$^{\circ}C$ for cotton and 80$^{\circ}C$ for wool fabrics. The light fastness of cotton and wool fabrics was low and particularly the fastness to perspiration was decreased with Fe mordanting. I concluded that pre-mordanting method was better than post-mordanting method for cotton and woolen fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.12 s.202
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• pp.69-76
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the colorfastness of cotton and silk fabric dyed with extract of Lotus leaf princeps. The experimental items were classified into mordanting treatments, fabric components and kind of mordants. The experimental test was done by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali) , light fastness, color difference by C.C.M(computer color matching) system and K/S test. The summarized findings resulting from the experiment and investigation are as follows: In the C.C.M and K/S test on mordanting method and kind of fabrics, co-mordanting treatment method and protein fabric (silk) were the most effective. Especially, Fe mordanting treatment was higher than Al, Cu, Cr and none-mordanting. In colorfastness on the mordants, perspiration and laundering fastness showed high grade (4-5) but grades of perspiration(2-3/4) and light fastness(1-3) were low.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.5 s.90
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• pp.22-29
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeability and antibacterial activity on wool fabric dyed with cochineal at variable dyeing conditions. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu and Sn were used as mordants and adsorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The optimum dyeing conditions of wool fabrics were dyeing concentration 2.0%(o.w.s), dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, pH 3 and dyeing time 30 minutes. The pre-mordanting method was preferred for Al and Cr, and the post-mordanting one was preferred for Cu, Sn and Fe to achieve better dyeing. The optimum mordanting conditions of wool fabrics dyed with cochineal were mordanting concentration of 1%(o.w.s), mordanting temperature $60^{\circ}C$, and dyeing time 30 minutes. Wool fabrics dyed with cochineal showed a little antibacterial activity, but it was increased by Cu and Sn mordanting. The light fastness and perspiration fastness of wool fabric treated with cochineal were improved by mordanting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.19-27
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• 2002

This paper surveys the mordanting and dyeing properties of Sophora japonica L. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Sophora japonica L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Sophora japonica L. solution was 367.6mn, rutin solution was 365.6mn. The color of Sophora japonica L. solution was affected at pH 2 and pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Sophora japonica L. was during 1 hour in 8$0^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 10$0^{\circ}C$, 60min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was increased by pre-mordanting treatment, especially Fe, Sn, Cr. In the case of Sophora japonica L. light fastness was increased by Fe mordanting. Perspiration fastness was better in acidic solution than that in alkaline solution. Fastness to rubbing and dry-cleaning were good in general.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.3_4
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• pp.422-430
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• 2002

Dyeing properties of the colorants from gromwell on cotton fabric were investigated. The effects of dyeing conditions on dye uptake and the effects of mordants and mordanting methods on K/S value, color change and colorfastness were explored. Gromwell colorants showed low affinity to cotton fabric, and its adsorption isotherm was Freundlich type close to Langmuir type. Therefore, it was considered that hydrogen bonding and Vander Waals force were involved in the adsorption of gromwell colorants to cotton fabric. Pre-mordanting method except Sn mordant gave higher K/S value but it was not significant. Gromwell colorants produced mainly R and RP color on cotton fabric depending on mordants and mordanting method. Dyed cotton fabric showed generally high colorfastness irrespective of mordanting treatment. Light colorfastness was increased by repeat dyeing and Fe and Sn mordanting.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.45-61
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• 2015

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used Al mordant agent and greenish yellow color by Fe mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by Fe mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by Al pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by Al pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.77-86
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• 2016

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by Munsell's value, and compared the difference of colors which were recognized visually. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used aluminum mordant agent and greenish yellow color by ferric mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by ferric mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by aluminum pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by aluminum pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color. However the color, which was recognized visually, differed from colorimeter sometimes. Therefore, such color table might be necessary for the natural dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.143-149
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• 2006

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Acorn Shell was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Acorn Shell were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Acorn Shell solution was at 287.5nm and 294nm. The pH effect was stable in the color difference changes. The optimum temperature to extract Acorn Shell was during 1 hour in $60^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were $80{\sim}100^{\circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with Acorn Shell appeared yellow-brown. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was increased by mordant treatment. K/S value of post-mordanting was higher than pre-mordanting. Mordanting treatment attected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Acorn Shell light fastness of appeared more than 3-5grades by post-mordanting. Abrasion fastness of appeared more than 3-5grades. Perspiration fastness of appered more than $3{\sim}5grades$ by mordant treatment but Cu mordant treatment was $2-5{\sim}4grades$. Dry-cleaning Fastness appered more than 4 grades except Cu mordant treatment. These fastness improvement were generally effective for mordant treatment, specially Al, Sn, Cr.