• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.33-41
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• 1997

This paper surveys the extraction condition of polygenetic natural dye, Sappan Wood and the effect of ash to the dyeability and fastness. The appropriate time for extracting Sappon Wood was 1hour. The pH was increased as the amount of ash increase. The pH was nearly invariable according to the time of ash solution, the extracting times and temperature. Absorbance of dyeing fabrics was about 480nm. From the result of K/S value determination of fabrics, 10g/$\ell$ quantity of ash was surfficient for treatment and the amount of Sappon Wood was in 100% o.w.f.. K/S value of fabrics pre-mordanted or post-mordanted were higher than that of fabrics simultaneous mordanted.K/S value was increased as pH of mordanting bath decrease and pre-mordanting and post-mordanting fabrics increased the amount of absorption (K/S value) compared with non-mordanted fabrics. It was found that pH of mordanting bath affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed fabrics. Light fastness of fabric dyed was very poor and the fastness of fabric dyed was not influenced by the mordanting conditions and methods.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권2호
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• pp.228-242
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• 2019

This research investigated the effect of mordants on the degradation of madder dye in silk when silk was treated by the H2O2/UV condition as a laboratory simulation of burial induced degradation. Alum, iron, and alum/iron composite mordanting methods were applied to silk before dyeing with madder dye. Dye extracted from silk was examined using HPLC-DAD-MS analysis. The abundance of the chromatogram peak at 8.88 min retention time was used as the concentration of alizarin pigment in silk. K/S values, CIE $L^{\ast}a^{\ast}b^{\ast}$ values; in addition, Munsell HVC values were obtained using a spectrocolorimeter. The findings indicated that alizarin degraded most severely in silk mordanted by alum/iron composite mordanting than alum mordanting or iron mordanting. Mordanting with alum alone provided a relatively lower dye fixation at the point of dyeing; however, it provided a better survival of alizarin after 12 hours of degradation treatment.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.51-62
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to check color change depending on dyeing conditions when silk fabrics was dyed with gromwell and to investigate mordant effect when synthetic tannin was used as a mordant. First, when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell, the change of color, brightness and chroma were examined by measuring K/S value, a, b value, L value and C value depending on dyeing condition. Second, color, brightness and chroma differences which appeared after mordanting with synthetic tannin were investigated and muti-functional mordanting effect was confirmed with dyeing fastness, antibiosis. As a result of color analysis of gromwell, it was proved that the main pigment of gromwell was shikonin. Color was red purple at pH 3 when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell. But It became greenish and bluish as temperature rose and time passed by. And it grew reddish and yellowish as concentration level reached higher. The color became purple at pH 5 and purple blue at pH 7. Both at pH 5 and pH 7, it became greenish and yellowish, as temperature went up and time ran by. And it became reddish with concentration increasing. Brightness and chroma decreased with temperature and concentration increasing as well as time passing by. After mordanting with synthetic tannin, the color became less reddish at pH 3 and reddish-yellowish at pH 5 and pH 7. The brightness increased and the chroma decreased. At all pH, the color, the brightness and the chroma became similarly by synthetic tannin mordanting. Dyeing fastness of synthetic tannin mordanted fabric was higher than that of non-mordanted fabric. Especially, wet fastness at pH 3 improved from 1 grade before synthetic tannin mordanting to $3{\sim}4$ grade after tannin mordanting. Antibiosis was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.92-101
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• 2007

This research was carried out following the preceding research on natural cellulose fabrics dyed with extract of fresh african marigold petals. Dyeability on fabrics was tested by dyeing with wool and silk which are natural protein fibers. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants, examining the changes in the surface color, K/S value, and maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. Wool fabrics showed color tone of medium or less saturation and brightness, in dark yellow color series. An orange color of high saturation was only obtained by tin mordanting. Wool showed higher K/S value than cellulose fibers. In summary, marigold dye has more affinity for protein fibers. It showed better dye effect in wool than silk. The chitosan pre-treatment and pre-mordanting lowered the K/S value of wool, which showed that chitosan pre-treatment does not improve dye uptake. However, different from the dyeing carried out by pre-mordanting without pre-treatment with chitosan, more diversified colors could be obtained by mordants. Therefore, for the dyeing natural protein fibers with marigold extract, post-mordanting does not require chitosan pre-treatment. However, pre-mordanting with chitosan pre-treatment could implement diverse colors. Considering its dyeing behaviors which are similar in both natural cellulose and protein fibers, african marigold extracts can be evaluated as a stable and highly practical dye.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.7-7
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• 2001

This paper investigated the dyeability and surface color of silk and cotton fabrics dyed with chustnut bur extract. Some experiments were performed under the various dyeing conditions such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, repetition of dyeing, dyeing pH, mordanting condition, washing fastness and light fastness with silk and cotton fabrics. The results obtained were as follows 1. △E value was increased when dyeing temperature and time was higher, value of munsell was shifted from Yellow to Yellow-Red at hither dyeing temperature and time in silk and cotton fabrics. 2. Optimal dyeing pH was increased with acidity of dyeing solution in silk and cotton fabrics, and repetition of dyeing did not change the dye-uptake. 3. When mordanting time and temperature was higher, △E value was larger in silk and cotton fabrics. Silk and cotton fabrics with Fe-premordanting treatment had best dyeability, but treatment with Sn-mordanting was worst. 4. Washing fastness and light fastness was excellent in various dyeing condition at silk fabric but cotton was without practical use.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.93-103
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• 2001

This paper investigated the dyeability and surface color of silk and cotton fabrics deed with chustnut bur extract. Some experiments were performed under the various dyeing conditions such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, repetition of dyeing, dyeing pH, mordanting condition, washing fastness and light fastness with silk and cotton fabrics. The results obtained were as follows 1. $\Delta{E}$ value was increased when dyeing temperature and time was higher, value of munsell was shifted from Yellow to Yellow-Red at hither dyeing temperature and time In silk and cotton fabrics. 2. Optimal dyeing pH was increased with acidity of dyeing solution in silk and cotton fabrics, and repetition of dyeing did not change the dye-uptake. 3. When mordanting time and temperature was higher, $\Delta{E}$ value was larger in silk and cotton fabrics. Silk and cotton fabrics with Fe-premordanting treatment had best dyeability, but treatment with Sn-mordanting was worst. 4. Washing fastness and light fastness was excellent in various dyeing condition at silk fabric but cotton was without practical use.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.5-12
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• 2005

The Purpose of this study is to investigate dyeing properties of fabrics with rhubarb colorants. Rhubarb colorants were extracted with water from sliced dry root of rhubarb. Using rhubarb extract, wool fabric specimens were dyed under various conditions(temperature, time, pH, mordants). Effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dyeing properties and colorfastness were studied. The color of the dyed fabric specimens were predominantly yellow for all of the pH range. The optimum condition for dyeing with rhubarb extract was dyeing at $80^{\circ}C$ for 30minutes. Al of 4 kinds of mordating agents and pre-mordanting showed the highest chroma value. Washfastness was 3-4, but the dyed wool fabrics became darker on light exposure.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.107-121
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• 2003

This study was discussed the dyeing of wool and nylon fabrics with Chinese Scholar Tree extract. The extracts of Chinese Scholar Tree was prepared in the condition of heating at $95{\pm}5C$, for 1 hour and cooling to 40C. And then the extracts of color matter treate with vacuum concentration at $60{\pm}2^{\circ}C$, 30mmHg and dried with spray dryer. The dyeing of wool and nylon fabric in this experiment was also employed the mordant dyeing method such as pre-mordant, post-mordant and simultaneous mordant method. The mordanting agents used in this study were as followings ; aluminium potassium sulfate, copper(II) acetate monohydrate, chromium potassium sulfate$.$$7H_2O$, Tin(II) chloride dihydrate, iron(II)sulfate $7H_2O$. For an evaluation of the dyeing property of the mordanting agents, the pre-mordant method, the repeat dyeing and the fastness of the light, dry cleaning, washing and rubbing measured respectively. From the results of the dye absorption, the optimum dyeing condition of the wool and nylon fabrics with Chinese Scholar Tree extract is at 80C dyeing temperature for 60 minutes. The optimum concentration of mordanting agent is Al, Cr, Sn 1%, Fe, Cu 2% solution. In general, the fastness property of the dyed wool and nylon fabrics had a comparatively high grade.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.11-19
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dyes, the mordanting and dyeing properties of cochineal and carminic acid were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of cochineal were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of cochineal solution was 495nm, carminic acid was 533nm and 577nm. The color of carminic acid solution was affected by pH 6~9. The optimum temperature to extract cochineal was $80-100^\circ{C}$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. And effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was $80^\circ{C}$, and its time was 30min. In case mordants concentration, the maximum absorbance of Sn solution was 3%, K, Cu and Cr were in 1%. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordant treatment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. In the case of cochineal light fastness was increased by mordant treatment, specially Fe treatment. Perspiration fastness was good in acidic solution than in alkaline solution and perspiration fastness of cochineal was poor. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.85-92
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• 2012

This was a study examining the fatliquoring of natural dyed cow skin with Coptis chinensis Franch. The K/S according to optimal dyeing condition, mordants and mordanting method was measured. And the surface, sections, tensile strength, elongation, stiffness and colorfastness according to post-dyeing fatliquoring were observed. The optimal conditions include 300%(o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 30 minites. Fe-simmordanting showed the highest dyeability. Coptis chinensis Franch showed a yellow color regardless of mordants and mordanting methods. Tensile strength and elongation increased in the case of simmordanting compared with untreated and the process of fatliquoring further increased. The softness significantly increased when fatliquored. Shrinkage was slightly reduced when dyed, but showed almost no change with fatliquoring. Lastly, color fastness increased overall with mordanting and partly increased with fatliquoring. The rubbing and light fastness were excellent Cu- mordanting, and drycleaning fastness also improved with Cr-mordanting.