• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.125-130
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• 2003

To develop natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the dyebath extracted from wisteria. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing temperature, pH of dyebath, dyeing time, concentration of dyebath and mordant treatment which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, wool, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(ΔE) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk and cotton fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. In silk and wool fabrics(non mordant, dyeing time-20min), color differences increased in case of dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, but in cotton, ramie and hemp fabrics, color differences did not increase. Without mordant treatment, color differences of all experimental fabrics were about 10-20, so in wisteria dyeing mordant treatment was necessary. Color differences were increased by the mordant treatment; the color of dyed fabrics with Al mordant is dull yellow, Cu mordant is gold and Fe mordant is olive tone. Color difference was not affected by pH of dyebath in all experimental fabrics. On the whole, the color fastness of dyed silk and cotton fabrics were good, but color fastness to washing and perspiration in Fe mordant was weak and improved in Cu mordant.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.283-288
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• 2003

Large quantity of metal mordant in natural dyeing has been used. For environmental reason, there is a need to reduce the amount of metal mordant and suggest the optimum amount of metal mordant in dyeing process. In this study, the relationship between mordant concentration and dyeing property was investigated. Various metal mordant concentrations of AI, Cu, Fe, Sn, were studied (from 1 to 5%). After treatment of mordant on cotton fabric, the concentration of metal ion in used mordant solution was quantified. There was no significant difference of the tone of color in mordant concentration from 1% to 5%, Therefore, there is no need to increase mordant concentration over 1%. chitosan treated cotton fabric showed a significant increase in dyeing affinity compared to untreated cotton fabric (the value of ${\Delta}E$ was 20). chitosan increased dye affinity significantly in the presence of mordant. It can be suggested that chitosan itself can replace metal mordants in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.431-440
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate the feasibility of applying the chitosan for a natural mordant. The chitosan, a natural chelate macromolecule, is acquired from the crustacean. Investigation was focused on the change of the dyeability according to the chitosan treatment based on the Caesalpinia sappan and the color change of the dyed fabric according to the application of heavy metal mordant. The change of air permeability of the fabric with the dyeing condition was also investigated systematically. The effect of dyeing with/without mordant on the air permeability of the fabric after the chitosan treatment. It seems that the increase in the dye-uptake is attributable to the fact that chitosan forms a complex with the Caesalpinia sappan and Al during mordant dyeing of cotton fabric. For nylon fabric, the darkest color was achieved on the occasion of non-mordant dyeing of the fabric. The mordant treatment or chitosan treatment, however, reduced the dyeability. While the dyed nylon fabric could maintain the same air permeability as the grey nylon fabric, the cotton fabric lowered the air permeability after dyeing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.119-129
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• 2020

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of premordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.107-121
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• 2003

This study was discussed the dyeing of wool and nylon fabrics with Chinese Scholar Tree extract. The extracts of Chinese Scholar Tree was prepared in the condition of heating at $95{\pm}5C$, for 1 hour and cooling to 40C. And then the extracts of color matter treate with vacuum concentration at $60{\pm}2^{\circ}C$, 30mmHg and dried with spray dryer. The dyeing of wool and nylon fabric in this experiment was also employed the mordant dyeing method such as pre-mordant, post-mordant and simultaneous mordant method. The mordanting agents used in this study were as followings ; aluminium potassium sulfate, copper(II) acetate monohydrate, chromium potassium sulfate$.$$7H_2O$, Tin(II) chloride dihydrate, iron(II)sulfate $7H_2O$. For an evaluation of the dyeing property of the mordanting agents, the pre-mordant method, the repeat dyeing and the fastness of the light, dry cleaning, washing and rubbing measured respectively. From the results of the dye absorption, the optimum dyeing condition of the wool and nylon fabrics with Chinese Scholar Tree extract is at 80C dyeing temperature for 60 minutes. The optimum concentration of mordanting agent is Al, Cr, Sn 1%, Fe, Cu 2% solution. In general, the fastness property of the dyed wool and nylon fabrics had a comparatively high grade.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.174-184
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• 2010

This research was carried out to find the dyeing properties of Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi on the rayon and cotton fabrics. The best proper dyeing conditions were examined by changing dye concentrations, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repitition. Also dyeability and surface color changes were evaluated by various mordanting methods and agents. The maximum absorption of Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi were at 275nm and 362nm. The optimum dyeing conditions on the cotton were 80%, $80^{\circ}C$, 40minutes, 4 repitition, and those on the rayon were 80%, $80^{\circ}C$, 60minutes, 5 repitition. The K/S values of rayon and cotton fabrics were higher in pre-mordant than post-mordant. The K/S values on the rayons were lower than no mordant fabric except pre-Fe mordant, these on the cotton fabrics were higher than no mordant fabric except post-Al mordant. The value of ${\Delta}E$ was the highest in Fe mordanted fabrics, and higher on the cotton fabric than rayon. The surface colors of all mordanted fabrics were yellow.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.7
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• pp.63-72
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• 2004

This study discussed the dyeing of wool and cotton fabrics with Betel Palm Tree White woolen fabrics and cotton fabrics purchased from HATH (Korea Apparel Testing ＆ Research Institute) were used as experimental fabrics. Using dyeing powder extracted from dyeing material, various temperatures, dyeing times, and pH were used in the dyeing process. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu, and Sn were used as mordant and the absorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The optimum condition for pre-mordanting dyeing was dye concentration of 25% (o.w.f) and mordant concentration of 0.5$^{\circ}$∼1%. Woolen fabric showed an increase of absorption and the maximum absorption was achieved at weak acidity. According to the mordanting methods, woolen fabrics and cotton fabrics were treated with various mordanting agents, a mordant rate of 1:100, at 60$^{\circ}C$, for 30 minutes and dyed with a dyeing material concentration of 25% (o.w.f), at a rate of 1:100, at 60$^{\circ}C$ for 60 minutes. The best dyeing effect w3s achieved at the temperature of 60$^{\circ}C$ for cotton and 80$^{\circ}C$ for wool fabrics. The light fastness of cotton and wool fabrics was low and particularly the fastness to perspiration was decreased with Fe mordanting. I concluded that pre-mordanting method was better than post-mordanting method for cotton and woolen fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.143-149
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• 2006

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Acorn Shell was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Acorn Shell were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Acorn Shell solution was at 287.5nm and 294nm. The pH effect was stable in the color difference changes. The optimum temperature to extract Acorn Shell was during 1 hour in $60^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were $80{\sim}100^{\circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with Acorn Shell appeared yellow-brown. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was increased by mordant treatment. K/S value of post-mordanting was higher than pre-mordanting. Mordanting treatment attected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Acorn Shell light fastness of appeared more than 3-5grades by post-mordanting. Abrasion fastness of appeared more than 3-5grades. Perspiration fastness of appered more than $3{\sim}5grades$ by mordant treatment but Cu mordant treatment was $2-5{\sim}4grades$. Dry-cleaning Fastness appered more than 4 grades except Cu mordant treatment. These fastness improvement were generally effective for mordant treatment, specially Al, Sn, Cr.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.391-400
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• 2002

This study was intended to research the dyeing with natural walnut hull extracts over cotton, flax, rayon, wool, nylon and silk. We studied the dyeing conditions and mordant effect, and observed dyeability. The result are as follows: 1. In the dyeability with natural walnut hull extracts, protein and polyamide fiber has more dye uptake rather than cellulose fiber. 2. The optimum condition in the dyeing with natural walnut hull extracts was at $90^{\circ}C$, 12%(o.w.b) concentration in 90 mins. 3. In the case of the dyeability by repeated dyeing number, the dyeability of good dyeability fiber is improved in the first or second dyeing, but that of bad dyebality fiber is improved when it is dyed more repeatedly. 4. In the dyeablity treated with mordants, Al, Sn, and Mg don't have any differences, but Cu and Fe have some difference. The color of Fe mordant is green and the color of Cu mordant is blue. 5. In the case of the color fastness with mordant treatment, nylon is better than silk and wool in color fastness to washing but silk is better than nylon and wool in color fastness to light.

• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.83-91
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• 1997

In this study, the dyeability of natural dye extracted from chesnut shell was investigated in order to explore the using of discarded chesnut shell in natural dyeing. Dyeing experiments were done in various dyeing conditions which were different in dyeing temperature, concentration of dyebath, dyeing time, repitition of dyeing. pH of dyebath and mordant with 3 kinds of experimental fabrics silk, nylon and cotton. Color and color difference ($\Delta$ E) of every dyed fabrics were measured and color fastness to drycleaning, washing, perspiration and light were measured. The results were as follows ; 1. The dyebath became thicker with time and temperature of extraction and the characteristics of dyebath prepared chesnut shell 1g : distilled water 30㏄ after 3 hrs-boiling were 32,400ppm and 3.7pH. 2. The dyeabilities of silk and nylon fabrics were good and color difference was increased with dyeing temperature, concentration of dyebath, dyeing time, number of repitition and acidity of dyebath. But the dyeability of cotton was very poor compared to silk and nylon. 3. Without the treatment of mordant, the dyeability of silk was little lower than that of nylon, but after the treatment of mordants it became higher than nylon. After the treatment of mordant Cu and Fe, the dyeability of cotton was increased although the natural dye from the chesnut shell was hardly absorved in cotton without mordant. 4. On the whole, the colorfastness of dyed silk and nylon were very good except the colorfastness to washing in silk and the colorfastness to light in nylon.